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leather. The printing office, which adjoins the mansion, remains the same as when in use. These were purchased by the city of Antwerp for a museum. We went from here to the art gallery to see the paintings, among them is the portrait of Phillip the Good, Duke of Bergundy. His hair was shaved close to the crown. Around his neck was a gold collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece, the badge showing the golden fleece. We saw a number of fine portraits by Rubens and Sir Anthony VanDyck, two of the most famous artists of the country. We drove around the city, saw the long docks with their varied shipping, which in old days was the great industry of Antwerp, or Anvers, as it was then called. We passed Antwerp Castle, called the Steen. Barely one side of it is left, as it is in the center of the docks and shipping. It contains gloomy old dungeons, but which I could not persuade Augusta to go with me to see, as she had been there once, and they had given her the horrors. As we returned to the hotel, we stopped at a fashionable confectioner's and bought a dainty, called Massepain, a cross between cake and candy and a specialty of Antwerp. I had been feeling very miserable all day, and by the time I reached my room realized I was ill, having a high fever. I retired immediately, telling Gusty she had better inquire for the house physician, or where one could be found if needed during the night. This she did. Having my own medicine with me, I took it faithfully, or, rather, Gusty saw that I took it; but it was past midnight when I awakened from a sleep to find my fever broken. Gusty had been so worried she did not retire until she knew I was better. I awakened in the morning, July 7, feeling more like myself, but thought it best to remain quietly in my room until the afternoon.
We left about I M. for The Hague, Holland, crossing the frontier shortly after leaving Antwerp. Passing through Dordrecht and Rotterdam, we reached The Hague about 4 P. M. Stopping at Hotel Twee-Steeden (two cities). We took a lovely drive in the late afternoon, out through their park, the Haagsche Bosch (the Hague wood). This is a beautiful drive through trees with dense foliage and several streams winding through it. We saw a small herd of deer in one part of it. We were on the way to the Huisten Bosch (the house in the wood), where the Peace Congress was held some years ago. This is a villa of the queen's. On the main street outside the park is a canal which goes through the town, and is a beautiful little stream. The green foliage from the numerous trees in both park and town is reflected in its waters.
Friday, July 8. We visited the palace. This is the queen's winter home, The Hague being the political capital of Holland. The palace is extremely plain in every particular, even the interior. One room, however, is beautiful, being finished throughout in finely carved wood, both walls and ceiling. It is light in color, almost like white mahogany. This was a present to the little Dutch queen on her marriage, from the Dutch colonies. In this room is a gold bowl, presented to the little Princess Juliana. The royal family were in their summer home, the Chateau of Het Loo, near Apeldoorn. From here we drove to the Maurits haus, now a picture gallery. We saw Rembrandt's wonderful painting, the "School of Anatomy," also portraits of Rubens' two wives he was so fond of painting We went to the city museum to see some of the corporation pictures. These are very large and life size, representing men of the times. They were painted for the various guilds or corporations so numerous in the days when Holland was one of the richest commercial centers in the world. The paintings show the wealthy citizens in all their gorgeous attire of velvets, satins and laces. I have no doubt my ancestor, Hans Graff, was one of the number, if I but knew. He left an enormous fortune in Holland when he fled to America, a Mennonite refugee. This fortune was appropriated by the crown. Every few years some different branch of the Graff family renews the effort to have the fortune restored, and newspapers are filled with the subject for a short time. Then it is quietly dropped, until some other enterprising member of the family renews it again.
In the afternoon we drove out to Schevenigen, the great seaside resort and fashionable watering place of Holland. In many respects it reminds me of our own seaside resorts. It has a very fine beach, and in season this is thickly dotted with beach chairs. The chairs here are quite novel to me, as they are made of wicker, with a cover over them, for protection against wind and sun. We drove back to the hotel and took a late afternoon train to Amsterdam, passing on the way Leyden and Haarlen, and seeing acres of tulips, quite a number being still in bloom.
We reached Amsterdam about 6 o'clock, and stopped at the Amstel Hotel. We had some difficulty in selecting our rooms, as I would not go higher than the first sleeping floor, while their best rooms were on the next floor above. I took a small room front, while Gusty took a larger back room. However, there are no back rooms, as there are streets on three sides of the hotel, and canal on the other. My room fronts the canal. It was chilly here, and I wanted a fire. The stoves had all been removed for the summer, but no persuasion would induce them to put one in my room. I was informed that it was a warm, sunny room.
So it was when the sun shone, and I think it shone for one day while I was there. When in my room, I spent most of my time under bed covering to keep warm,
In the morning, July 9, we received mail forwarded to us from Paris. A home letter told me of the critical illness of my aunt. I immediately cabled to know how she was.
This and reading our letters occupied the morning. After lunch we ordered a carriage for the afternoon. As I was putting on my hat, I discovered