Constance, a decayed city, of 7200 inhabitants, instead of 40,000 which it once possessed, is remarkable for its antiquity, since its streets and many of its buildings remain unaltered since the 15th century. Although situated on the 1. or Swiss bank of the Rhine, it belongs to Baden. It is connected with the opposite shore by a long wooden covered bridge, and occupies a projecting angle of ground at the W. extremity of the Bodensee, or lake of Constance; its agreeable position and interesting historical associations make amends for the want of life perceptible within its venerable walls. It has of late, however, revived considerably; the government have formed, at a large expense, a port on the lake, which facilitates the navigation while it is an ornament to the town.

The Minster is a handsome Gothic structure, begun in 1052; the doors of the main portal, between the two towers, are of oak, curiously carved with a representation of the Passion of our Lord, executed in 1470 by one Simon Bainder. The nave is supported by 16 pillars, each of a single block, and dates from the 13th century. The spot where the "Archheretic Huss" stood, as sentence of death by burning was pronounced on him by his unrighteous judges, is still pointed out. Robert Hallam, Bishop of Salisbury, who presided over the English deputation to the council, is buried here, in front of the high altar, "under a tomb, which is

very remarkable, as being of English brass; which is fully proved by the workmanship. It was probably sent over from England by his executors. Two sides of the ancient cloisters, whose arches are filled in with exquisitely beautiful tracery, are yet standing. The other sides were not long since destroyed by fire. By the side of the cathedral is a curious circular chapel, perhaps a baptistry, in the centre of which is a Gothic model of the Holy Sepulchre. The chambers on the cloister portion of the ancient Episcopal palace contain many curious vestments and dusty relics of the past grandeur of the see.'

"The Dominican Convent, now a cotton-printing establishment, is very interesting. The place is still shown where Huss was confined, though the stone chamber itself has been removed, (at least all that remained of it) to the Kaufhaus. The church forms a most picturesque ruin, in the earliest style of German Gothic. The clois ters are perfect. The little island upon which this building stands was fortified by the Romans, and a portion of the wall, towards the lake, can yet be discerned.". P.

In a Hall of the Kaufhaus (an ancient edifice, dating from 1388), looking towards the lake, the Great Council of Constance held its sittings, 1414-18, in a large room supported by wooden pillars. That famous assembly, composed, not of bishops alone, like the ancient councils, but of deputies, civil and ecclesiastical, from the whole of Christen. dom, including princes, cardinals | (30), patriarchs (4), archbishops (20), bishops (150), professors of univer sities and doctors of theology (200), besides a host of ambassadors, inferior prelates, abbots, priors, &c., was convened for the purpose of remedying the abuses of the church; and as those abuses began with its head, the proceedings were prefaced by a declaration that a council of the church has re

24 Route 7.- Constance. 8.

ceived, by Divine right, an authority in religious matters, even over that of the Pope. It exerted its influence in curbing the Papal power, by deposing the infamous John XXIII. and Benedict XIII., and by electing in their place Martin V. But there is one act of this council which fixes more lasting and odious celebrity than all the rest the treacherous seizure and cruel murder of John Huss and Jerome of Prague, in spite of the safe conduct granted to the former by the Emperor Sigismund, the president of the assembly.

The chairs occupied by the emperor and pope, the Bible of Huss, the door of the dungeon, now destroyed, in which he was confined, the hurdle on which he was dragged to execution, the pulpit from the Minster, supported by a figure of Abraham, which the people mistook for Huss, and defaced accordingly, and some other relics of the council, still remain in the hall, besides a collection of Roman and German antiquities, dug up in the neighbourhood. Admission is obtained on payment of 1 F. fr.

The house in which Huss lodged, bearing a rude likeness of him, is pointed out in the Paul's strasse, near the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into prison soon after his arrival, in the Franciscan Convent, now a ruin, whence he was removed to a more irksome dungeon, affording scarcely room to move, in the before mentioned Dominican Convent.

The field-outside of the town, in the suburb of Brühl, in which he suffered martyrdom, with a fortitude which moved even his judges and executioners to admiration-nay, even the place where the stake was planted, are still pointed out; and rude images of Huss and Jerome, formed of clay taken from the spot, are offered for sale to the stranger.

In 1474 a perpetual treaty of peace was concluded at Constance, between Sigismund of Austria and the Swiss

Schaffhausen to Zurich.

Confederation, which put an end to the contests which had endured for more than a century and a half, beginning with the fights of Morgarten and Sempach. Constance belonged to the crown of Austria from 1549 to 1805, when, by the treaty of Presburgh, it was transferred to Baden. Since 1802 it has ceased to be a bishopric. The spirit of industry is reviving of late in Constance, and several manufactories of cotton, two of muslin, and one of silk have recently sprung up.

Petershausen, on the opposite bank of the Rhine, was until 1803 a Benedictine monastery: it is now a château of the Grand Duke. It is still surrounded by its ancient fosse and ramparts. An excursion to the little island of Meinau, about 4 miles N. of Constance, will well repay the trouble: it is decidedly one of the prettiest spots on the borders of the Bodensee.

The lake of Constance is described in Route 66. Eight steamers run daily between Constance and the different ports of the lake. They correspond with the diligences to Milan, at Rorschach; with the Eilwagen for Stuttgard at Friedrichshafen, and with that to Augsburg and Munich at Lindau :- thus maintaining a daily communication between Constance and these cities.

Diligences run daily to Zurich, Schaffhausen, Coire, St. Gall, Strassburg, and Frankfurt.

A steamer runs also to Schaffhausen in 3 hours, returning in 6, every day from April to October.

ROUTE 8.

SCHAFFHAUSEN TO ZURICH, BY
EGLISAU.

9 stunden = 29 Eng. miles. Diligence daily, in about 5 hours. There is another road, somewhat longer and more hilly, on the 1. side of the Rhine, by Andelfingen —

:

Route 8.

(Inn Bär)-a village of 2000 inhabitants, and the large manufacturing town of Winterthur (5 stunden), described in Route 9.

The route by Eglisau passes within a short distance of the Rhine-fall. The roar of the cataract is audible 4 or 5 miles off in a calm night, and the column of vapour from it "rising like incense from the altar of nature" is visible at a considerable distance. A corner of the territory of Baden, including the villages of Jestetten and Lostetten, is traversed before reaching

4 Eglisau (The Lion d'Or is a clean little inn by the river side; Hirsch, Stag).-A little town of 1600 inhabitants, in a contracted valley on the rt. bank of the Rhine, which here flows in a dark green stream, between wooded hills. At the end of the wooden bridge which traverses it rises a tall, square watch-tower of massive masonry; it belonged to a castle now removed. Close to it is a toll-house. This road is much traversed by pilgrims to the shrine of our Lady of Einsiedeln (Route 74); and the traveller encounters, at every step, troops of the poor peasantry of the Black Forest, religiously counting their beads, and muttering their aves and paternosters. From the heights above the town of

1 Bülach (4000 inhabitants) the snowy Alps may be discerned in fine weather, with the Righi in the middle distance.

2 Kloten.

The descent upon Zurich, between vineyards and gardens, amidst neat villas and taverns, with the windings of the Limmat, and the lake and town of Zurich in front, is very pleasing. A little to the rt. of the road rises the hill of Weid, 3 miles from Zurich, commanding the finest view of the town and neighbourhood. short distance outside of the town may be seen the junction of the Sihl with the Limmat. Since 1833, Zurich has ceased to be a fortress: a Switz.

A

large portion of the ramparts are already swept away, and the stranger finds himself within its walls without encountering drawbridges and bas tions as heretofore.

class inns.

13 ZURICH Inns Hotel Baur, a new, large, handsome, comfortable, and well managed house, with a reading-room and a belvidere on the roof, commanding the view of the lake and Alps, situated opposite the new post office, on the 1. bank of the Limmat. Charges as at other first Table d'hôte, at one, with wine, 3 fr.; at five, 4 fr.; in private, 6 fr. Charge for servants (boots included), 1 fr. H du Lac, also new and highly recommended; the landlord professes neither to bribe couriers, nor to overcharge travellers. Couronne (Krone), on the rt. bank of the Limmat, commands a fine view, and is good. These inns are all new, Schwerdt (Epée) improved under a new master; Bellevue (formerly Corbeau).

Zurich, the most important manufacturing town of Switzerland, and the capital of a canton distinguished above all others for prosperous industry, has 14,500 inhabitants, and lies at the N. end of the lake of Zurich, and on the banks of the Limmat, just where it issues out of the lake in a rapid and healthful stream, clear as crystal. A Roman station, Turicum, fixed on this spot, probably gave rise both to the town and its name. Zurich is the seat of the Swiss Diet (Vorort) alternately with Berne and Lucerne, for a period of two years together. The flourish. ing condition of the town is visible in the improvements going forward in it, in the number of the new buildings in and around it. The banks of the lake and Limmat, and all the neighbouring hills, are thickly dotted over with houses, by the removal of the useless and inconvenient ramparts, now united with the town itself, forming a wide circle of suburbs.

Apart from its agreeable situation,

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and thriving manufactures, there is not much to be seen in Zurich. There are no fine buildings here: that of the most consequence is the Cathedral, or Gross Münster, on the rt. bank of the Limmat. It is venerable from its age, having been built in the 10th or 11th century, and worthy of respect from having been the scene of Zwingli's bold preachings of reformation in the church, and amendment of morals. It is a heavy, massive building, in a style of architecture resembling that called Norman in England; very plain within and without, but interesting in the eye of the architect and antiquary. Its nave is supported on square pillars and round arches; beneath it is a very perfect crypt. Its circular portal, and the adjoining cloisters raised upon small low triple arches, with slender columns and capitals of various patterns, fantastically carved, are very curious.

The house in which the reformer Zwingli passed the last six years of his life is still standing: it is No. 185 in the Grosse Stadt.

The Church of St. Peter (with the large clock), on the 1. bank of the Limmat, had for its minister, for 23 years, Lavater, the author of the renowned work on Physiognomy, who was born at Zurich. On the capture of the town by the French army, September 26, 1799, he was shot, within a few steps of his own door, by a brutal French soldier, to whom, but two minutes before, he had given wine and offered money, and while he was in the act of assisting another soldier who had been wounded. A high reward was offered by Massena, the French commander, for the discovery of the murderer; but, though known to Lavater and his family, he refrained from informing against him. After lingering through three months of excruciating agony, he expired, Jan. 2. 1801, at the parsonage : his grave is marked by a simple stone in the churchyard of St. Anne; where

Lavater.

Ebel, author of the Swiss Guide, and Escher von der Linth (p. 32), are also buried.

The Rathhaus, a massive square building close to the lower bridge, and opposite the Sword Inn, is the place of meeting of the Diet, when it assembles at Zurich. In the councilchamber is an extravagant painting of the Oath at Grutli, by Henry Fuseli (properly Füssli), who was born here.

The Town Library, close to the New stone bridge, in a building formerly a church (Wasserkirche), contains, in addition to 45,000 printed volumes and MSS., three autograph Latin letters of Lady Jane Grey, addressed to Bullinger, in a beautifully clear and regular hand-a few grammatical errors have been remarked in them; Zwingli's Greek bible, with marginal notes (chiefly Hebrew) by himself; a Roman inscription, giving the ancient name of Zurich Turicum; a bust of Lavater, by Dannecker; a portrait of Zwingli and his daughter, by Hans Asper; a model in relief of a large part of Switzerland; some very curious fossils from Ehningen, including one described by Scheuchzer as a human skull, though in reality a portion of a lizard-fossils of the Glarus slate, chiefly fishes, from the Plattenberg.

The Old Arsenal (Alt-Zeughaus) contains some ancient armour; also a cross-bow, said to be (?) that with which William Tell shot the apple from his son's head; and several tattered standards, taken by the Swiss from their enemies, including one of Charles the Bold of Burgundy. This collection is inferior to those in seve ral other Swiss cantons.

In 1832-3, a University was established at Zurich, and many profes sors, expelled from other countries for their political opinions, have repaired hither as teachers. The most eminent among them is Oken. the number of students is not great. The building of the suppressed Au

As yet

gustine convent has been appropriated to its use, and considerable additions to it are contemplated. The Library contains many original MSS. of the early reformers; and the 'Museum of Natural History some good specimens of Swiss minerals and fossils, together with the Herbarium of John Gessner, and a zoological collection.

One of the most pleasing features about Zurich is its Promenades and points of view. One of the best of them is an elevated mound, once forming part of the ramparts, and called Cats' Bastion, now included in the New Botanical Garden, which is prettily laid out in walks and shrubberies, and open to the public without restriction, a privilege not 'abused it commands a delightful view of the town, lake, and distant Alps. Nothing can be more delightful than the view at sunset from this point, extending over the smiling and populous shores of the beautiful lake to the distant peaks and glaciers of the Alps of Glarus, Uri, and Schwytz, tinged with the most delicate pink by the sinking rays. The most prominent and interesting of the Alpine peaks seen from this are, beginning at the E., the Sentis in Appenzell, Glärnisch, Dödi, Klariden in Glarus, Achsenburg, Rossberg, and Uri Rothstock.

The Hohe Promenade, another rampart on the rt. bank of the Limmat, also commands a good view, but more confined than the former. Those who desire a complete panorama should ascend either the Hütliberg, about 3 m. E. of Zurich, one of the Albis range of hills, or the Weid, a hill about 3 m. N. of the town, where an inn has been built.

The triangular piece of ground at the junction of the Limmat and Sihl, below the town, called Untere Promenade, or Platz, is also a public walk: it is planted with shady avenues, but commands no view. Here is a simple monument to the

memory of Solomon Gessner, author of "The Death of Abel," who was a native of Zurich.

Zurich is historically remarkable as the place where the Reformation first commenced in Switzerland, under the guidance and preaching of Ulric Zwingli, in 1519. It had already, at an earlier period, afforded safe and hospitable shelter to Arnold of Brescia, when driven out of Italy for inveighing against the temporal power of the Pope. It was the asylum of many eminent English Protestants banished by the persecu tions of the reign of Queen Mary: they met with a friendly reception from its inhabitants during their exile. The first entire English version of the Bible, by Miles Coverdale, was printed here in 1535.

Zurich is the native place of Hammerlin, the reformer; of Gessner, the poet, and Gessner, the naturalist of Lavater; and of Pestalozzi, the teacher.

The principal Manufactures are those of silk, the weaving of which occupies many thousands in the town and along the shores of the lake. There are one or two large cottonfactories. The cotton and silk goods made in the neighbourhood, and in other parts of the canton, are the object of an extensive commerce with Germany and Italy. Mr. Escher's large manufactory of machinery employs 700 persons, including several English overseers. Most of the iron steamers plying on the Swiss lakes are made by him. Many of the manufacturers of Zurich have the reputation of great wealth, without much polish; hence the expression, "Grossier comme un Zurichois."

A fine Hospital behind the new promenade, an Orphan House (Waisenhaus), an Asylum for blind and deaf (Blinden Institut), and a stone bridge over the river, have risen up within a few years.

The Museum Club contains a capital reading-room, where Galignani,