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The Times, John Bull, Examiner, Athenæum, and Literary Gazette, Quarterly and Edinburgh Reviews are taken in; besides more than 300 of the best Continental journals. Travellers can be introduced for a few days by a member. Open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.

At the shop of Henry Füssli and Co., near the stone bridge, will be found the best collection of maps, views, &c., such as travellers often require to supply themselves with.

The New Post and Diligence Office is built near the Liebfrauen Kirche. A letter reaches England in 6 days.

Diligences go daily to Schaffhausen, Constance, Basle, Bern, Neuchâtel, Lucerne, Schwytz, Winterthur, and St. Gall, Rapperschwyl, and Coire; four times a-week to Glarus.

Steam-boats goe twice a-day from Zurich to the other end of the lake (Rapperschwyl and Schmärikon) and back. Diligences convey passengers thence to Wesen, where another steamer is prepared to carry them across the lake to Wallenstadt. (Route 14.) Travellers proceeding to the Righi may take the boat as far as Horgen. (p. 31.)

The voituriers (Lohnkutschers) of Zurich have the reputation of being extortioners and uncivil. The writer can, from experience, recommend as an exception to this rule (if rule it be) one Jacob Aberli, living in the Hirschgasse, as having served him with honesty, punctuality, and civility, for more than four weeks.

ROUTE 9.

ZURICH TO CONSTANCE, BY WINTERTHUR.

12 stunden = 391 Eng. miles. A diligence daily in 9 hours. The road passes through Schwammendingen and Bassersdorf.

On the banks of the Toss, about 8 miles on the rt. of the road, and nearly 4 miles from Winterthur, rises the Castle of Kyburg, memorable in

history as the seat of a powerful family of counts, who, between the 9th and 13th centuries, gained pos session of the N. of Switzerland, as far as the Rhine and lake of Constance, and numbered as their dependents and vassals 100 lords of minor castles, now for the most part in ruins. The line becoming extinct in 1264, their domains fell to the share of Rudolph of Habsburg; and the Austrian family, though long since deprived of them, still retain among their titles that of Count of Kyburg.

The ancient Dominican Convent of Toss, on the road, now converted into a factory, was the chosen retreat of the Empress Agnes after the murder of her father, Albert of Austria. Here her daughter-in-law, St. Elizabeth of Hungary, took the veil, and died in the odour of sanctity: her monument, with the arms of Hungary, is visible in the existing church. The cloisters, built with the church in 1469, are ornamented with fresco paintings from the Old and New Testaments.

4 Winterthur (Inns: Wilder Mann, good; Sonne)- an industrious manufacturing town, of nearly 3500 inhabitants; consisting of two long parallel streets, crossed by eight smaller ones at right angles.

The weaving of muslin and the printing of cotton are the most thriving branches of industry here. 24 Frauenfeld (Inns: Krone, best and clean; Hirsch) the chief town of the canton Thurgovie (Germ. Thurgau), has 1200 inhabitants, and is situated on the river Murg, which sets in motion the wheels of numerous cotton, dyeing, and printing mills.

The stately Castle, on the summit of a rock, was built in the 11th century by one of the vassals of the Counts of Kyburg.

On a hill to the S. of the town stands the Capuchin Convent, founded in 1595, now occupied by only seven or eight brothers.

Routes 10, 13.

=

23 stunden 75 English miles. A malleposte goes daily in 14, and a diligence in 17 hours. As far as

4 Baden, the road is the same as Route 6. This route is very circuitous. There is another direct road to Lenzburg by Bremgarten, but it is a mere cross road, not practicable for heavy carriages.

At Mellingen, the river Reuss is crossed by a wooden bridge. Some have supposed that the battle in which the Roman general Cæcina beat the Helvetians, A. D. 70, was fought here.

3 Lenzburg-(Inns: Löwe, good; Krone ;)— a manufacturing town of 2000 inhabitants, on the Aa, a stream which drains the lake of Halwyl. The old gothic castle on the summit of a sandstone cliff is now converted into a school, on the plan of that at Hofwyl.

At a village called Hunzenschwyl, the road to Aarau turns off to the right, and that from Schintznach and Brugg joins our route.

13 Suhr. On the right rises the ancient fortress of Aarburg (p. 13). 23 Kreutzstrasse-( Inn: Löwe.)— The high road from Bâle to Lucerne here crosses our route. At Rothrist, 1 farther on, there is a good inn (Cheval Blanc- Rössli), kept by a civil landlady. The road runs along the rt. bank of the Aar to 1 Morgenthal

good.)

21 Herzogenbuchsee

Sonne ;) bitants.

(Inn Löwe,

a village of 4500 inha

1 Hochstetten.

1 Alchenfluh. 11 Hindelbank.

In the village church is the celebrated Monument of Madame Langhans, wife of the clergyman, who died in child-birth. It is by a sculptor named Nahl, and represents her with her child in her arms, bursting through the tomb at the sound of the last trumpet. Its merit, as a work of art, has been much exaggerated. Its chief excellence seems to be the natural manner in which the crack in the stone is represented. epitaph was written by Haller. This tomb is formed of sandstone, and is let into the pavement of the church. The chief figure is injured by the loss of the nose, which Glütz Blotzheim asserts (it is to be hoped unfoundedly) was the wanton act of an Englishman.

The

The Custle on the neighbouring height belongs to the Erlach family. 23 BERNE, (in Route 24.)

C 3

ZURICH TO COIRE, BY THE LAKES OF ZURICH AND WALLENSTADT.

125 stunden 82 Eng. miles.

A diligence goes daily, performing the journey in 12 hours. It is now possible to post the whole way to Coire, except from Zurich to Rapperschwyl, for which distance either the traveller may embark on the steamer, or voiturier's horses must be used. The stations from Zurich are to Rapperschwyl; posts: Utznach, post; Wesen, 13 post; by steamer to Wallenstadt; to Ragatz, 2 posts; Coire, 24 posts, or 14 Grison post.

:

Steam-boats traverse the Lake of Zurich, to and fro, twice a day, in 2 or 3 hours: starting from Zurich to Schmarikon, about 8 A.M., daily and again in the afternoon, 5 times a week; returning from Schmärikon to Zurich, at 2 P. M. They zigzag from one side of the lake to the other, to take in and let out passengers at the different towns. The fares are less high than at first; from Zurich to Wallenstadt, 9 fr. 50 c.; to Schmärikon, 4 fr. 50 c.; Rapperschwyl, 3 fr. 60 c.; Arth, at the foot of the Rigi, 5 fr. 50 c. As the vessels on both lakes, and the diligences, are under the same administration, the fare may be paid at once. For a carriage, 3 horses, and 3 masters, and a servant, 70 francs from Wallenstadt to Zurich. : Carriages: Zurich to Wallenstadt, 45 fr.; horses, 2 fr.

Conveyances are provided by the company at Horgen for Arth at the foot of the Rigi, and at Schmärikon for Wesen, or passengers may go by water in a row-boat along the Linth Canal, between the last two places.

Diligences are in readiness on the arrival of the steamer at Rapperschwyl and Wallenstadt, to carry on the passengers to Coire, St. Gall, Glarus, &c.

Good carriage-roads run along both sides of the lake, and are traversed

daily by diligences. The road to Wallenstadt and Coire runs along the rt. or N. bank.

Its

The Lake of Zurich has no pretensions to grandeur of scenery; that must be sought for on the silent and savage shores of the lakes of Lucerne, Geneva, and Wallenstadt; but it has a charm peculiarly its ownthat of life and rich cultivation. borders are as a bee-hive, teeming with population, and are embellished and enlivened at every step by the work of man. Its character is smiling and cheerful. The hills around it are less than 3000 feet high above the sea, and descend in gentle slopes down to the water's edge: wooded on their tops, clad with vineyards, orchards, and gardens on their slopes, and carpeted with verdant pastures, or luxuriantly waving crops of grain at their feet. But the principal feature in this landscape is the number of human habitations: the hills from one extremity to the other are dotted with white houses, villas of citizens, cottages, and farms, while along the margin of the lake, and on the high road, they gather into frequent clusters around a church, forming villages and towns almost without number. Every little stream descending from the hills is compelled to do duty by turning some mill; at the mouths of the valleys enormous factories are erected, and thus the shores of the lake, on either side, have the appearance of one vast uninterrupted village.

at

The effect of this lively foreground is heightened by the appearance of the snowy peaks of the Sentis, Dödi, and Glärnisch, which are seen different points peering above the nearer hills. The charms of the lake of Zurich inspired the Idylls of Gessner: they are celebrated in an ode of Klopstock, and in the prose of Zimmerman. The lake is a long and narrow strip of water, about 26 miles in length from Zurich to Schmerikon, and not more than 3

broad at the widest part, between Stafa and Wädensweil. The principal river falling into it is the Linth, which issues out at Zurich, under the name of Limmat.

Scarcely any of the villages or towns on the lake are at all remarkable except as the seats of flourishing industry. A few only of the principal places are enumerated below, with their distance by land from Zurich ; the banks are distinguished as rt. and 1., in reference to the course of the Limmat.

(1.) The high ridge rising on the W. of Zurich, and bordering the lake for more than 12 miles, is the Albis. (rt.) 13 Kussnacht-(Inn: Sonne) a village of 2114 inhabitants; not to be confounded with its namesake on the Lake of Lucerne, famous in the history of Tell.

(1.) Rüschlikon; behind this are the baths of Nydelbad, with a bathhouse.

2 Thalwyl-(Inn: Adler.)

Lavater is said to have written a portion of his work on physiognomy at the parsonage of the village of Ober-Rieden, about 3 miles farther

31

(See

shrine usually disembark here. Route 74.) Zimmerman resided here as physician, and in his work on " Solitude" praises the beauty of this spot.

(1.) 1 Stäfa (Inns: Krone; Stern ;) -an industrious village of 3026 inhabitants, by whom much silk and cotton is woven. The extremity of the lake beyond this lies out of the limits of the canton Zurich. It has been calculated that the num ber of inhabitants on each of its banks, hence to the town of Zurich, a distance of 16 miles, is not less than 12,000.

On approaching Rapperschwyl and its long bridge, the pretty little isle of Aufnau becomes a conspicuous feature and ornament to the landscape. It has some celebrity as the retreat and burial place of Ulric Von Hutten, a Franconian knight, the friend of Luther and Franz of Sickingen, distinguished equally for his talents and chivalrous bravery, but withal a bit of a roué. His satirical writings contributed not a little to the spread of the Reformation, but raised up against him such a host of enemies, that he was forced to fly from the court of Charles V., and take refuge from their persecution, first, with Franz of Sickingen, and, after his death, in this little island. Zwingli had procured for him an asylum here, in the house of the curate, where he died a fortnight after his arrival (1523), at the age of 36. He was buried by a faithful friend, but all record of the spot in which he lies has long since disappeared.

was originally constructed by Leopold of Austria, 1358: the existing bridge dates from 1819.

A small stone pier has been thrown out into the lake, a little below the bridge, outside the gate of the town, to receive passengers from the steam-boat.

(rt.) 1 Rapperschwyl — (Inns : Pfau (Paon d'Or), outside the town, best, a very pleasant inn, but dear; post-horses are kept here, and throughout canton St. Gall (§ 5. Introduct.); Freienhof. This is a very pic turesque old town, in canton St. Gall, still partly surrounded by walls, and surmounted by an old Castle and a Church, near which, from the terrace called Lindenhof, a fine view is ob. tained.

Rapperschwyl is about 18 miles from Zurich, and the same distance from Wesen. The diligence takes about 3 hours either way. A char costs 12 f.; and a calèche with two horses, 20 to 24 f. Roads run from hence to St. Gall, and across the bridge to Einsiedeln. — (Route 74, and Glarus, by Lachen. R. 72.)

At Schmerikon, the road quits the lake of Zurich; the castle of Grynau, on the rt., stands on the Linth, a little above its entrance into the lake. Pedestrians will find the towing path along the Linth canal shorter than the carriage-road from Schmerikon to Wesen.

23 Uznach,- -a small town of 900 inhabitants, on an eminence, the summit of which is occupied by a small square tower of the ancient castle and by that of the church. The road to St. Gall (Route 69) turns off here. There are mines of brown coal at Oberkirch, about a mile from Uznach, in a hill 1500 feet high. Near Uznach is an immense cotton mill, driving 24,480 spindles, and having 100 windows on each side. It is supplied with water from a mountain-torrent descending immediately behind it.

Soon after leaving Uznach, the valley of Glarus opens out into view,

with the snowy mountains near its head; a very beautiful prospect. Out of this valley issues the river Linth, an impetuous torrent, fed by glaciers, and carrying down with it vast quantities of debris, which had accumulated to such an extent twenty years ago, that its channel was obstructed, and its bed raised many feet above the level of the lower part of the valley. From this cause arose repeated and most dangerous inundations, which covered the fertile district on its banks with stone and rubbish, and converted the meadows into a stagnant marsh. Nearly the entire valley between the lakes of Zurich and Wallenstadt was reduced to a desert, and its inhabitants, thinned in numbers by annual fevers, arising from the pestilential exhalations, abandoned the spot. The valley of the Linth was relieved from this dire calamity by Mr. Conrad Escher, who suggested to the Diet, in 1807, the ingenious plan of digging a new bed for the waters of the Linth, and turning it into the lake of Wallenstadt, in whose depths it might deposit the sand and gravel which it brought down, without doing any damage. He at the same time proposed to improve the issues of the lake of Wallenstadt by digging a navigable canal from it to the lake of Zurich, so as to carry off the waters of the Linth, and the other streams falling into it, so that it might drain the intervening valley, instead of inundating it. This important and useful public work was completed by Escher in 1822, and has been attended with perfect success. In consequence of it the valley is no longer sterile and unwholesome, and the high road to Wesen, which was often cut off and broken up by inroads of the river, is now carried in a straight line along its rt. bank. Immediately opposite the opening of the valley of the Linth, at whose extremity the mountains of Glarus now appear in all their grandeur, a simple monumental tablet of black marble