Route 115.

yards, to observe the beauty of its | purity and colour in the crevices, which cannot be conceived when looking down upon it, for the stones and soil are rejected to its surface, and thrown over at its edges, forming what are called the moraines of the glacier.

The Jardin. - Those who wish to cross the Mer de Glace, and visit the Jardin or Courtil, on the Glacier de Talèfre, should sleep at the pavilion, for, to a fatiguing day's journey, two hours and a half makes an important addition. The accommodation now offered at the pavilion enables the traveller to sleep comfortably and start early. No person should venture without a guide, and with one, a description of the course is scarcely necessary. David Coutet, is an active, intelligent man, and the best possible guide to the Jardin, as he is well acquainted with the state of the crevasses on entering upon the Mer de Glace, the chief obstacle to the traverse of the Mer. The great object of the excursion is to enter more into the heart of Mont Blanc, to penetrate into its profound valleys, and witness scenes of wilder horrors and more savage solitude; and there is no excursion from Chamouny that excites these sublime emotions more powerfully. The guide should be provisioned for this excursion, and in fact any other where the visitors are not numerous enough to insure an establishment for refreshment. Bread and cold meat, and wine, should be taken by the guide to the Jardin, the Mont Breven, the Chapeau, and such other places as the guide may advise.

The course taken, is to follow the S. W. side of the Mer de Glace, and reach the base of the Aiguille de Charmoz, where, from there being fewer crevices, the Mer de Glace can be crossed with greater safety. Several ridges of moraines, called arrêtes, which lie in the direction of the glacier, are crossed, and that part of the glacier called Lechaud is ascended a

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little, to attain the lower extremity of that of Talèfre, which here presents an awful appearance, from the disruption of the ice, and the vast and wild masses and pyramids into which the glacier has broken, from its abrupt descent into the glacier of Lechaud. These hang in terrorem over

the traveller who dares to approach them.

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To pass these glaciers it is necessary to climb the rocks of the Couvercle, the base of the Aiguille du Talèfre. This, which is difficult from its excessive steepness, is not dangerous. part of the path lies in a little gulley in the rock, to climb over which, in some places, the hands are required, as well as the feet. This part of the passage is called the Egralets. Above it, where the path is less steep, and where there is some herbage, the traveller reaches the bed or level of the Glacier du Talèfre, which leads to an oasis in this desert-an island in the ice- -8 rock which is covered with a beautiful herbage, and enamelled, in August, with flowers- this is the Jardin of this palace of nature, and nothing can exceed the beauty of such a spot, amidst the overwhelming sublimity of the surrounding objects, the Aiguilles of Charmoz, Bletière, and the Géant, and the enormous glaciers of Tacul; all vindicate the truth of the poet's glorious description,—

"Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains; They crown'd him long ago,

On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds,
With a diadem of snow."

In returning from the Jardin it is not necessary to descend by the Egralets; a steep path leads down from the glacier of Talèfre to the glacier of Lechaud, and then by the path to the base of the Charmoz, to Montanvert, and Chamouny.

It requires 3 hours to go from the Pavilion to the Jardin, and 7 or 8 to return from the Jardin to Chamouny; for though the descent may be made quicker, the traveller is more fatigued, and, allowing for rest

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and enjoyment, the journey is one of 16 hours, from and to Chamouny; the gain of 3, therefore, by starting from the Montanvert, will obviously lessen its fatigue. "The excursion to the Jardin," says Professor Forbes, "is one of the grandest in the whole range of the Alps, and, owing to the purity of the atmosphere, is not so fatiguing as is generally supposed. If the traveller be not pressed for time, and have a taste for such sublime scenes, he may, by sleeping a second time at the Pavilion, enjoy these in a high degree, by exploring, after a descent from the Jardin, the upper part of the Mer de Glace and the Glacier de l'Echaud for this there will be time enough, and even to make collections of plants and minerals, which are highly interesting; the former at the Egralets and on the Jardin, and the latter on the Moraines of the Glacier of Talafre and on the eastern side of the Mer de Glace.

"The next morning, therefore, instead of returning by the beaten road to Chamouny, the traveller may, under the guidance of David Couttet, explore the bases of the Aiguilles between the Mer de Glace and Mont Blanc, and crossing with caution the Glacier du Pelerin, descending from the Aiguille du Midi, he will find himself on the brink of a precipice immediately overlooking the Glacier du Bossons, not far from the point where it is crossed, opposite the Grands Mulets, in the ascent of Mont Blanc; and here he will have a far better idea, than from any other point, of the real nature of the difficulties to be encountered, and the magnificence of the scenes to be enjoyed, in that daring excursion. A very steep but beautiful descent, chiefly over herbage, and parallel to the course of the Glacier du Bossons, will lead him to the valley of Chamouny, two miles below the village; and in passing he may visit two remarkable cascades, formed by the

water which descends from the Glacier du Pelerin, which are little visited, though near the great road through the valley. In one of these the water, descending with prodigious velocity through a natural and almost vertical conduit in the rock, meets with an obstacle which, giving it a sudden check, causes it to gush forward and upward, thus forming a parabolic arch of singular beauty, especially at the season, or under circumstances of abundant water. A short day only is necessary for this interesting excursion."

The Flegère. This point of view of Mont Blanc is that which is most generally attained by ladies, because it may be accomplished on mules the whole way, and it is one of the finest in the valley. It was from the Croix de la Flegère that Mr. Burford took his panoramic view of Mont Blanc, lately exhibited in Leicester Square. The point attained lies exactly opposite the Glacier du Bois, or Mer de Glace; and from no point are the remarkable group of Aiguilles, which surround the Aiguille Verte, so finely seen. The Montanvert is visited for the sake of its proximity to the Mer de Glace; the Flegère, to enjoy a view of Mont Blanc with its attendant objects. From Chamouny to the Flegère is an excursion which requires only 24 hours. The road that leads to it lies up the valley, to the hamlet of les Près, where it turns off to the left towards the Aiguille de Chalanods, one of the Aiguilles Rouges, where a steep path commences, which leads up to the pasturage of Pra de Viola. Thence a good hour is required to attain the Croix de Flegère, which commands a view of the whole range, from the Col de Balme to the furthest glacier that, below Chamouny, streams into the valley, which lies in a great part of its extent in delicious repose beneath the observer.

Within two minutes' walk of the Cross is the Châlet of Flegère, which affords shelter in unfavourable wea

ther, and where refreshment may be had for sight-seeing is turned to good account in every place in the neighbourhood of Chamouny, where the visitors are numerous enough to ensure a sale of the provision made. The height of the Croix de Flegère is about 3500 feet above the valley.

If the traveller be pressed for time, and can only visit one of the spots of interest around Chamouny, it should be the Montanvert; if two, this and the Flegère; the third should be the Breven. This excursion requires five hours from Chamouny to the summit of the Breven; it is fatiguing and difficult for ladies, yet many go there; for if they can bear the fatigue, their guides either avoid danger, or protect them when exposed to it; and the confidence which the names of Balmat, Coutet, Tairrez, Davouassoux, and others, inspire, is so great, that the adventurous dame who begins with the Flegère, often ends with the Jardin or the Breven.

It is fatiguing, however, to reach the Breven and descend in one day, about 12 hours; for this reason, many go in the evening to the châlets of Planpra, or Pliampra, the path to which lies behind the church of Chamouny, and leads directly towards the base of the Breven.

This mountain and the Aiguilles Rouges form the north-western boundary of the vale of Chamouny, nearly throughout its extent. It is strikingly distinguished, however, from its neighbour, by its ridge being unbroken, and even rounded, though it offers on the side of Chamouny a vast line of precipices, apparently inaccessible.

About one third of the ascent to the Breven may be accomplished on a mule; another third will attain the châlets of Planpra, where there is a glorious view of Mont Blanc and the valley of Chamouny. In this wild spot the meadows and pasturages are beautiful.

Above Planpra, either a fatiguing path may be taken, which is cut in

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the rocks, or one that leads directly up the pasturages, which, when dry, are very slippery; it is a choice of labour and difficulty without much difference many patches of snow are passed, and it is not uncommon to observe the red fungus upon it, such as Captain Parry noticed in the high latitudes of his northern voyages. At the end of an hour from Planpra, the path reaches the base of a steep rock, which it is necessary to climb, by a sort of open chimney about 50 feet high. To clamber up this perpendicular gulley is one of the feats of which travellers boast; those, however, who do not value the glory it confers, or will not set it against the risk, go on half a mile, and find a convenient path by which this precipitous rock can be surmounted. Above it the path lies up a gentlé slope, neither fatiguing nor dangerous, to the summit of the Breven; this has an elevation of about 8500 English feet above the level of the sea, or 5000 above Chamouny, yet not more than two fifths of the height of Mont Blane above the valley. This elevation, however, offers the finest view of the whole mass of Mont Blanc of all the numerous sites whence it can be seen. The vale of Chamouny alone separates them, and this proximity is so great that every peak and glacier, and even crevices in the gla, ciers, can be distinguished; every pasturage and châlet in that band on the mountain side which lies above the pine forests and below the eternal

snows.

When adventurous travellers ascend Mont Blanc, numerous visitors crowd the Breven to watch their progress, for the course lies like a map, from the village to the summit, and, with a good glass, every step they take may be observed. From the Buet, 2000 feet higher, there is a more extended horizon, but the Breven conceals all the lower belts of Mont Blanc, and as the Buet is double the distance from the peak of the " Monarch," he is not so