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has been let into the face of the rock by the road side, to the memory of the public-spirited citizen who conferred this great benefit on the surrounding country. He earned from it, in addition to his name, the title Von der Linth, the only title which a republic could properly confer, and of which his descendants may be more proud than of that of count or baron. The Linth is here crossed by a bridge called Ziegelbrucke, over which runs the road to Glarus. (Route 72.) Near it are a cotton manufactory and an establishment for the education of the poor of the canton Glarus. It is called the Linth Colony, because it owes its origin to a colony of 40 poor persons, afterwards increased to 180, who were brought hither by charitable individuals from the over-peopled villages of the canton, and settled on this spot, which was the bed of the Linth previous to Escher's improvements, in order to reclaim it by removing the stones and rubbish, and rendering it fit for cultivation. They were lodged, fed, and allowed a small sum for wages, the expense being defrayed by subscription. After having, in combination with the correction of the Linth, described above, restored the valley to a state fit for agriculture, and having, above all, been saved themselves from starvation, in á season of scarcity, they were dismissed to seek their fortunes with some few savings to begin the world; and, what was of more importance, with industrious habits, which they had learned while settled here. In the school which now replaces the colony, children from 6 to 12 are taught, and teachers are also instructed. There is a good inn, Zum Escher Linth, about a mile before entering Wesen. 31 Wesen. situated.

·Inn: L'Epée, well

Wesen is a village of about 500 inhabitants, at the W. extremity of the lake of Wallenstadt, and in the midst of scenery of great magnifi

cence.

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to Schmerikon and Glarus after the arrival of the steamers. Passengers can proceed along the Linth canal to Schmerikon in barges. The distance by land is reckoned 24 posts. carriage may be hired from Wesen to the Righi by way of Einsiedeln (Route 74). The journey takes up two days, halting at Einsiedeln the first night. The road turns out of that to Zurich at the New Inn, Zum Escher Linth, crosses the canal, and proceeds through a pretty country by Galgenen and Lachen (Ox a good inn), where it falls into the route from Rapperschwyl.

Glarus is six miles from Wesen (Route 72).

LAKE OF WALLENSTADT.

A steam-boat runs between Wesen and Wallenstadt, to and fro, twice a day in summer. The voyage takes up about 1 hour; fare about 1s. 8d. English. Carriages are taken at about 5s. English, being shipped and landed free of expense, except a trinkgeld.

Diligences are provided at either end of the lake to carry on passengers as soon as landed.

Previous to the construction of the Linth canal, the only outlet for the lake of Wallenstadt was a small stream called the Magg, which encountered the Linth, after a course of about 2 miles, and was arrested by the debris and stones, brought down by that river, so that not only were its waters often dammed up behind, but the surface of the lake was raised several feet above its ordinary level, in consequence of which they overflowed the valley both above and below it, and laid the villages of Wallenstadt, at the one end, and Wesen, at the other, under water for many months during the spring. By Escher's correction of the course of the Linth, its waters are now carried into the lake, where they have

34 Route 14.- Zurich to Coire- Lake of Wallenstadt.

already formed, by their deposit of mud and gravel, a delta nearly half a mile long. Another canal, deep and protected at the side with strong dykes, now supplies the place of the Maag, and drains the lake of Wallenstadt into that of Zurich.

The lake of Wallenstadt is about 12 miles long by 3 broad; its scenery is grand, but not first rate; far inferior to that of the lake of Lucerne. Its N. shore consists of colossal cliffs of lime and sand-stone, regularly stratified, and so nearly precipitous that there is room for no road, and only for a very few cottages at their base, while their steep surface, almost destitute of verdure, give to this lake a savage and arid character. The S. side consists of more gradually sloping hills covered with verdure and overtopped by the tall bare peaks of more distant mountains. On this side there are several villages, and a very rough and irregular road runs along it. The lake had once the reputation of being dangerous to navigate, on account of sudden tempests; but in this respect it does not differ from other mountain-lakes; and there can be little risk in intrusting oneself to experienced boatmen. The courier who has passed it three times a-week for many years remembers no instance of an accident.

The precipices along the N. bank vary between 2000 and 3000 feet in height, and the stranger is usually surprised to learn that above them are situated populous villages and extensive pastures crowded with cattle. Such a one is the village of Ammon, containing 3000 inhabitants, nearly 2500 feet above the lake, with a church, gardens, and orchards. It is approached by one narrow and steep path, which may be traced sloping upwards from Wesen along the face of the mountain. Several waterfalls precipitate themselves over this wall of rock, or descend, by gashes or rents in its sides, into the

lake; but they dwindle into insignificance by the end of summer, and add no beauty to the scene. The principal ones are the Beyerbach, 1200 feet high (above which lies Ammon), and the Sarenbach, 1600 feet high.

The hamlet of St. Quinten is the only one on this side of the lake. On the opposite (S.) side there are numerous villages at the mouths of the streams and gullies. The prin cipal of them is Murg, near which a large cotton-factory has been recently built. Behind it rises the mountain Murtschenstock. Its summit, 7270 feet high, and almost inaccessible, is traversed through and through by a cavern, which, though of large size, looks from the lake like the eye of a bodkin. The hole is best seen when abreast of the village of Mühlehorn; by those not aware of the fact, it might be mistaken for a patch of snow. This peak is the favourite resort of chamois.

The N. E. extremity of the lake is bounded by the seven picturesque peaks of the Sieben Kurfursten (7 Electors; some say Kuhfirsten). At their feet lies the village of

4 Wallenstadt. (Inns: Rössli (Cheval); Hirsch (Cerf, or Poste); Aigle d'Or, nearest the steamer, not good, 1840. All inferior inns.

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Wallenstadt is a scattered township of 800 inhabitants; nearly half a mile from the lake, of which it commands no view. The flats of the valley around and above it marshy, and the neighbourhood was formerly very unhealthy, so long as the irregularities of the Linth obstructed the passage of the waters of the lake. The evil might be entirely cured were similar measures adopted to confine and regulate the course of the Scez, which still overflows the valley at times. Wallenstadt is a dull place, and travellers had better avoid stopping here.

There is considerable beauty in the scenery of the valley of the Scez, be tween Wallenstadt and

Routes 14, 15. Zurich to Coire- Zurich to Zug.

sur

Sargans (Inns: Kreutz (Croix Blanc); Löwe ;) -a town of 723 inhabitants, on an eminence mounted by a castle, near the junction of the roads from St. Gall and Zurich to Coire. It stands upon the watershed, dividing the streams which feed the Rhine from those which fall into the lake of Wallenstadt; and this natural embankment is so slight (about 200 paces across and less than 20 feet high) that, as the deposits brought down by the Rhine are constantly raising its bed, it is not impossible, though scarcely probable, that the river may change its course, relinquish its present route by the lake of Constance, and take a shorter cut by the lakes of Wallenstadt and Zurich. It was calculated by Escher von der Linth, from actual measurements, that the waters of the Rhine need rise but 19 feet to pass into the lake of Wallenstadt; and it is, indeed, recorded that the river, swollen by long rains in 1618, was only prevented taking this direction by the construction of dams along its banks. Geologists argue, from the identity of the deposits of gravel in the valley of the Upper Rhine with those in the vale of Scez, that the river actually did pass out this way at one time.

The remainder of this route up the valley of the Rhine by

Posts 24 Ragatz to

14 Coire, together with the excursion to Pfeffers. Baths, which no one who passes this way should omit, are described in Route 67.

N. B. Ragatz to Coire is 2 St. Gall posts, but Coire to Ragatz is 1 Grisons post.

ROUTE 15.

ZURICH TO ZUG AND LUCERNE, BY HORGEN AND THE RIGHI.

13 stunden=423 Eng. miles. This is the most direct road to Zug

35

and the Righi, but it is practicable for heavy carriages no farther than Horgen; they must therefore be sent round by way of Knonau (Route 16) to meet their owners at Zug or Lu cerne. As far as

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3 Horgen, the road runs along the W. shore of the lake of Zurich, described at p. 31. The best mode of proceeding thus far is in the steamboat (p. 30). At Horgen - (Inns : Schwan, rather dear;- Löwe) — a char-à-banc, with one horse, may be hired for 12 or 14 francs to Zug, a drive of about 2 hours. A brown coal or lignite is obtained at Horgen, but it will not answer as fuel for steam engines. The ascent of the Albis ridge behind Horgen is very steep, but commands a fine view of the lake as far as Rapperschwyl and ts long bridge. The steep descent which follows leads down to the vil lage of

1 Sihlbrücke, so called from a bridge over the Sihl, which conducts the traveller from canton Zurich into canton Zug. From the ridge which succeeds, the Righi and Pilatus mountains are first seen, and soon after the borders of the lake of Zug are reached.

It

1 Zug (Inns: Hirsch, Cerf, good; Ochs, comfortable and cheap, but not well suited for a family ;)— capital of canton Zug, the smallest state of the Confederation, has 3200 inhabitants, and is prettily situated at the N. E. corner of the lake, has an antiquated look, surrounded by its old walls, and, being without trade, has a silent and deserted air. Its inhabitants, exclusively Roman Catholics, are chiefly occupied with agricultural pursuits. The rich crops, vineyards, orchards, and gardens, on the borders of the lake, proclaim a soil not ungrateful to the cultivator.

There is a Capuchin Convent and a Nunnery here. The picture by Ca racci in the former, mentioned by the guide-books, is none of his, but is by

36

Routes 15, 16.

Zug- Zurich to Lucerne.

an inferior artist, Fiamingo, and of no great merit.

The Church of St. Michael, a little way outside of the town, has a curious bone-house attached to it, containing many hundred skulls, each inscribed with the name of its owner. The church-yard in which it stands is filled with quaint gilt crosses by way of monuments, and the graves are planted with flowers. The Cemetery deserves a visit; the display of armorial bearings, coats, and crests, even on the humblest tomb, is a remarkable decoration in a republican state !

In the year 1435 it is recorded that a part of the foundations of the town, weakened probably by an attempt to draw off part of the water of the lake, gave way, whereby two streets, built on the ground nearest the water, were broken off and submerged; 26 houses were destroyed, and 45 human beings perished; among them the chief magistrate of the town. His child, an infant, was found floating in his cradle on the surface of the lake; he was rescued, and afterwards became landammann of the canton.

Diligences go daily from Zug to Lucerne and Zurich.

The Lake of Zug, whose surface is 1340 feet above the sea, is 8 miles long, and about broad. Its banks are low, or gently-sloping hills, except on the S. side, where the Righi, rising abruptly from the water's edge, presents its precipices towards it, forming a feature of considerable grandeur, in conjunction with the Pilatus rising behind it. The Rufi, or Ross-berg, rising in the S. W. corner, is also lofty and steep; the lake, at its base, is not less than 1200 ft. deep. A capital carriageroad has been formed along the waterside from Zug to Arth and Immensee. Boats are to be found at all these places, and the fare across, with two rowers, is 20 batz. It takes about 2 hours to go by water to

Arth. The road to Arth winds round the base of the Rossberg, which has obtained a melancholy celebrity from the catastrophe caused by the fall of a portion of it. (See Route 17.) Near the chapel of St. Adrian a small monument has been erected on the spot where the arrow is supposed to have fallen which Henry von Hunenberg shot out of the Austrian lines into the Swiss camp, before the battle of Morgarten, bearing the warning words, "Beware of Morgarten." It was in consequence of this that the confederates occupied the position indicated, and it contributed mainly to their victory on that memorable field. Morgarten (R. 74.) lies within this canton, about 14 miles W. of Zug, on the lake of Egeri.

3 Arth-(Inn: Schwarzer Adler, Aigle Noir ;) is the best point from which to ascend the Righi; but Arth -the Righi- and the rest of the road to

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4 LUCERNE, are most conveniently described in Route 17.

ROUTE 16.

ZURICH TO LUCERNE, OVER THE
ALBIS.

10 stunden=323 Eng. miles.
A diligence daily in 7 hours.

The high chain of the Albis intervenes between Zurich and Lucerne, running nearly parallel with the lake of Zurich. Two roads are carried across ita. The most northern, and the longer, crosses the mountain where it is lowest, as it were turning the flank of the chain, and going round its N. extremity.

It commences the ascent of the Albis at the village of Albisrieden, about 3 miles from Zurich, passing under the highest summit of the chain, called Hütliberg, 2792 ft. above the sea-level, and commanding from its top-which may be reached by à foot-path in 1 hour from Zurich

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b. The second road, and the one commonly taken since the recent improvements, crosses the High Albis, and is so judiciously carried up the steep mountain side, in inclined terraces or zigzags, that unless a carriage be very heavy, only 2 horses will be required to surmount it. It is, however, completed only as far as the Zug frontier, beyond which it is very had (1839). This line of route is remarkable for the very beautiful view of the chain of the Alps, and of a large part of Switzerland, which is seen from its suminit. It skirts the shore of the lake as far as Adliswyl, where it crosses the river Sihl, and ascends to the

2 Albis Wirthshaus, or Inn of the Albis, which affords only moderate fare or accommodation, but a magnificent prospect. The best point, however, for seeing the view, is the Signal (Hochwach, called also Schnabel), a height off the road, about a mile above the inn: it takes in nearly the whole of the Zurichsee. At the foot of the mountain, between it and the lake, the vale of the Sihl intervenes. Its wooded slopes were the favourite retreat of the pastoral poet Gessner: they were occupied in 1799 by two hostile armies that of the French under Massena, who encamped on the slope of the Albis, and that of the Russians, who occupied the right bank of the Sibl. They watched each other from hence for more than three months; until Massena, by a masterly movement, crossed the Limmat, cut off part of the Russian force, and compelled the rest to a hasty retreat. On the S. are seen the little lake of Turl (Turler See),

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The Albis-Cappel. 37

at the foot of the mountain; not far from it the church of Cappel, where Zwingli died; farther off the lake of Zug, and behind it tower the Righi and Pilatus mountains, disclosing between them a little bit of the lake of Lucerne. The grandest feature, however, of the view is the snowy chain of the Alps, from the Sentis to the Jungfrau, which fills up the horiThe panoramic view from the Albis has been engraved by Keller.

zon.

The greatest height which the road attains is 2404 ft., after which it descends, passing on the rt. the little lake of Turl, by Rifferschwyl to

2 Knonau (a decent inn to dine

at). Persons bound to the Righi, and travelling on foot, or in a light char, may proceed at once from the summit of the Albis to Zug by Hausen, and Cappel (5 miles from the Albis inn), a village of 600 inhabitants, which has obtained a woeful celebrity in Swiss history as the spot where the Confederates, embittered against each other by religious discord, dyed their hands in the blood of one another, and where Zwingli the reformer fell in the midst of his flock on the 11th of October, 1531. Many of the best and bravest of the citizens of Zurich perished on that day of civil broil, overpowered by the numbers of their opponents, the men of the 4 inner cantons. Zwingli, who, in accordance with the custom of the time and country, attended his flock to the field of battle, to afford them spiritual aid and consolation, was struck down in the fight, and found by a soldier of Unterwalden, who did not know him, but who, ascertaining that he refused to call on the Virgin and saints, despatched himwith his sword as a dog and a heretic. His body, when recognised by his foes, was burnt by the common hangman, and even his ashes subjected to the vilest indignities that malice could suggest. A handsome monument, consisting of a rough massive block of stone by the road side, has

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