Returning to the village, I met a woman with one of those glandular swellings upon her throat, called goitres. It was the first I had seen, and the appearance of it was to me exceedingly unpleasant and disgusting. They abound chiefly in the Valais; yet it is a remarkable circumstance, that I did not meet with one in that portion of the canton through which we travelled. To what cause, or combination of causes, they are to be ascribed, I do not presume to say. Various conjectures have been entertained, and some theories established, the result of medical investigation. The idea, that they arise from drinking the snow water, is totally without support, since they are found in regions never visited with snow: in the neighbourhood of Naples, in the islands of Java and Sumatra, and in some other parts of the East Indies.

The opinion of M. de Saussure, to whom, in all cases connected with the phenomena of the Alps, much deference is unquestionably due, is, that they are occasioned by the concentration of heat and the stagnation of air in the lower vallies-since in the higher regions they are not found. To me, however, it is a curious circumstance, that the only instance I met with should be in so high a valley as that of Chamouni: while in the much lower valley of the Rhone, where they are said especially to abound, I did not meet with one. Whether the woman I saw was a native of the valley or not, I

am unable to determine; the probability is, that

she was.

The theory of Mr. Coxe, which he has established chiefly on his own investigations and researches, is, that they arise from a calcarious matter, called tuf, with which the springs in those districts where the goîtres are found, are impregnated, which are so perfectly dissolved in the water as by no means to affect its transparency, but which are introduced in impalpable particles into the blood, and by means of the blood into the thyroid gland of the throat, which is the seat of the disease in question.*

Those who wish for further information on the subject, may consult Mr. Coxe's valuable work, in which the different theories are most ably discussed, and experiments adduced, which go far towards the establishment of his own. An interesting and remarkable fact is noticed in the History of Java, recently published by my relative, and fellow traveller, Sir Stamford Raffles, late Lieut-Governor of that island. "Here, as in Sumatra," he observes, "there are certain mountainous districts, in which the people are subject to those large wens in the throat termed in Europe, goîtres. The cause is generally ascribed by the natives to the quality of the water; but there seems good ground for concluding that it is rather to be traced to the atmosphere. In proof of this it may be mentioned, that there is a village near the foot of the Teng'gar mountains in the eastern part of the island, where every family is afflicted by this malady, while in another village, situated at a greater elevation, and through which the stream descends which serves for the use of both, there exists no such deformity. These wens are considered hereditary in some families, and seem thus independent of situation." Whether the water in this district has been analyzed or not, is not stated. Perhaps Mr. Coxe would say, that in the upper village the stream was too near its source to be suffici ently impregnated with the matter by which the goîtres are produced.

From the windows of my bed-room, which looked immediately on Mont Blanc, I enjoyed the various effects of the moon and clouds as they passed over the glorious scene. Though I was much overcome with fatigue, I could not consent to resign the object that absorbed me, and I continued fixed in delighted contemplation long after the rest of our party had lost their fatigues in sleep.

Your's, &c.

DEPARTURE FROM CHAMOUNI.

229

LETTER XXI.

Lausanne.

MY DEAR

Nil mortalibus arduum est, was the adage of the Roman poet, and it seemed to us that we had in some measure demonstrated its truth in our journey from Chamouni to Martigny. If we thought the way from St. Martin's to Chamouni difficult and dangerous, I know not what must be said of that from Chamouni to Martigny, for it is certainly much more so. But a la route, to speak in the true travelling style. We left Chamouni at seven o'clock, with the promise of a most auspicious day. We were upon the whole, a goodly company. Lady R seated upon a chair, and attended by eight sturdy guides, who took it in turn to bear her, led the van of our party. The other ladies followed in a car-a-banc, with Mons. Crotet as their special attendant, and a guide each; and we, mounted upon mules, brought up the rear. Sundry idle people of the village followed us, hoping, perhaps, in the course of the day, to be taken into

our service, as in some of the difficult parts of the road their assistance might be wanted. It was only for a few miles that the ladies enjoyed their carriage, being then obliged to mount the mules, and take their chance with the rest of us. I must, however, mention to their credit, the heroic resignation with which they made so unwelcome an exchange, and underwent the future fatigues of that day's perilous and toilsome journey.

We proceeded up the vale of Chamouni, through the little village de Bois, having Mont Breven on our left, and passing, as we advanced Montanvert, and the glaciers de Bois, and d'Argentiere on our right. The last-mentioned glacier we had not seen before. It derives its name from its silvery appearance, and is, perhaps, as elegant and beautiful as any in the Alps. We passed through the village of Argentiere, a few scattered cottages at the foot of the glacier, and, turning abruptly to the left, continued to ascend, till by a small farm house, we dismounted at the sug gestion of the guides, and having reached the summit of a little verdant hill, on the right of the path, we saw the greater part of the vale of Chamouni, with the colossal mountains that rise on either hand, stretching in sublime perspective to our view. High in the midst towered Mont Blanc; around him were his many needles, and his subject Alps, while the glaciers de Bois, and d'Argentiere, glittered