travellers are sometimes conveyed to Strasburg, a distance of eighty miles, which they accomplish in fifteen hours. It appeared to me that the navigation was extremely perilous, for the river abounds with shoals and eddies,-the boat is of the rudest structure, composed of a few planks of deal, and often so ricketty, that a man cannot stand erect in it, while it is navigated down the torrent by a single paddle.

There are some noble residences in Basle, which bespeak the opulence of their inhabitants; but the streets in general are narrow and intricate. The windows of the houses are for the most part defended by massive iron grating, which gives them the appearance of prisons, and throws an air of gloom over the whole place. We observed the same thing in other towns, but were peculiarly struck with it here. The cathedral is a venerable structure, but greatly disfigured by the red paint with which its whole exterior has been barbarously daubed. It will ever be remembered as the asylum in which the ashes of the great Erasmus repose. Behind the cathedral is a terrace commanding a Hoble prospect of the river, the city, and the adjacent country on the opposite bank of the Rhine.

The library at Basle is rich in the original manuscripts of the reformers; and connected with it is a suite of apartments, in which are preserved

many original drawings and paintings of the famous Holbein, who was a native of this city, where may be traced the progress of his genius from the rudest efforts of his pencil to that perfection in the art, for which his name is so justly celebrated.

Basle is also the seat of an ancient university, connected with which are some of the most illustrious names in literature and science; and no student in biblical criticism can fail to pronounce, amongst many others, that of a Wetstein and a Buxtorf, with grateful admiration.

The principal manufactures of Basle are ribands, stuffs, and paper. The Basilians claim the invention of the art of paper making and of printing as their own. Their claim to the honour of the last invention is, however, so slender, that the city of Basle is rarely mentioned in those controversies to which the subject has given rise. The only towns considered as having any right to contend for it, are Meyence, Strasburgh, and Harleim.

Basle is a protestant canton, and there is a great steadiness and sobriety amongst the people. Although remarkable for their love of liberty, they yet seem to be under the influence of an active and inquisitive police. The magistrates are extremely careful of the public comfort and the public morals, and, like the fathers of the state, forbid their chil

dren whatever is likely to injure either. We asked for white bread-the magistrates allowed nothing but brown, because of the failure of the last harvest. We asked for French or English newspapers-the magistrates did not allow any to enter the canton; we might read the German if we pleased. One of the party enquired if there was any theatre. No-was the reply-Government will allow no public amusement whatever since the last bad season, lest the people should spend that money upon shows and spectacles which they want for bread. It would be better for the people if all Governments had an equal regard to the welfare of their subjects! Your's, &c.

LETTER XXIV.

Kehl.

MY DEAR

WE are detained at this place, a small village on the German side of the Rhine, opposite Strasburg, being too late in our arrival to enter the city this evening. The gates are always closed at nine o'clock, and no one is permitted to pass after that time. This is a novel circumstance to an Englishman, who would not very calmly endure being shut out of one of his own towns at such an early hour. We thank God that the days of the curfew are over with us, and that we know nothing of that insecure and perturbed state of things which renders such precautions necessary. But we are not in England, and must, therefore, quietly submit.

We crossed the Rhine yesterday morning by the bridge at Basle, passed through the little city, and at the distance of about three miles on the road, left the canton of Basle, and entered Germany

by the territories of the Grand Duke of Baden. We had the Rhine on our left, and the Black Forest, covering majestic bills, at some distance on our right; while a rich and luxuriant landscape smiled. at every step. From the brow of a hill, about twelve miles from Basle, we obtained a glorious view of the windings of the river-the extensive and fertile valley through which it meanders-the dark undulations of the forest-the towers and spires of the city in the distance-and the whole line of Alps in the back ground, rising in hoary grandeur, and glittering in the beams of the noon-day sun.

. Here we left the Rhine; the road takes a direction towards the Black Forest, and skirts the edge of it, all the way to Fribourg. The route to Vienna lies through the heart of this forest. It was formerly, and is still, much infested by wolves, and at certain periods, especially in the severity of winter, travelling through it is not altogether unaccompanied with danger. You may, perhaps, have heard of a remarkable instance of self-devotion, related of the servant of a German Baron, who was passing through this forest, and pursued by wolves. For a while they kept a-head of their ravenous pursuers, but the servant perceiving them gaining ground, and assured at length that escape was utterly impossible, told the postilion to stopcommended his wife and children to his master's. protection, and then calmly gave himself up to be