steamer for Geneva, intending to return to the Canton de Vaud for a longer sojourn, but in this I was disappointed. My associations with this interesting spot are of a mixed kind; in nature there was so much to elevate, purify, and delight; in man, so much to humiliate, mortify, and deplore. It is a thought unspeakably painful, that amidst such sublime and lovely scenery— teeming as it does with tokens of the Creator's majesty and beneficence-there should be found multitudes who deny his existence, who are destitute of his fear, and who are living in envy and strife," hateful and hating one another." So true is it that something more than the religion of nature is needed to make men happy, virtuous, and united. Ah! it is the religion of Christ alone that effectually secures "glory to God in the highest, peace on earth, and goodwill to men."

CHAPTER III.

GENEVA.

As the day was wet, I had little opportunity during the sail to Geneva to admire the scenery of the lake. A heavy drizzling mist wrapt all in obscurity, nor was it until we had almost reached our destination that it began to clear up. When we landed, however, the evening was fine, and though the loftier hills were still shrouded from view, the high grounds on the south side of the lake unfolded their beauties, and assured me that the anticipations I had formed of the scenery around Geneva were not exaggerated.

As the passengers landed, two gens d'armes stationed themselves at the gangway and demanded our passports. To many, this seemed rather an unexpected demand, and excited some grumbling and indignation. Among the rest, I could not but be amused with a worthy American, whose passport was at the bottom of his trunk, and who declared he had buried it there on leaving France, never imagining that in republican

Switzerland such a thing would be required. As he did not speak French, he apparently at first was at a loss to comprehend what was wanted, and when at length it was made plain that he could not land until he had produced his passport, he received the intelligence with a transport of virtuous indignation, for which his country ought to decree him a triumph on his return. "Well! I guess I'll take a note of that," he exclaimed; "call this a republic, when they set two fellows with swords to demand passports from strangers!" And in huge dudgeon he delved into the recesses of his trunk for his passport, which he handed to the officer with an air that plainly said, “You are a disgrace to the name of 'free institutions;' but wait till I get to our country, and I shall expose you."

No doubt it is a great annoyance this passport system, on the continent, and, unquestionably, in a country like Switzerland, it seems a little incongruous; but then, gentle reader, there are everywhere certain ill-paid functionaries to whom the fees for visè-ing passports are such a boon, nay, such a necessary of life, that it would be positively cruel to abolish the system. How, for instance, could the representative of his majesty of Sardinia exist at Geneva, were it not for the four francs a-piece which accrue to him for surveying the passports of those who are bent on visiting Chamonix?

Instead of going to a hotel in Geneva, I availed myself of an introduction to M. and Madame Wolff to place myself at their quiet pension in the pleasant suburb of Pré l'Eveque. Here I remained during my abode at Geneva; and I cannot refrain from expressing

in this place, my grateful recollection of the pleasure I enjoyed whilst under that truly christian roof.

At the time of my arrival in Geneva, the Société Helvétique des Sciences Naturelles was holding its annual session in that city. This society, which is analogous to our British Scientific Association, (though a more primary place, and a larger share of attention are devoted at its meetings to the department of Natural History, than is the case with the latter institution,) has now existed for thirty years, and embraces in its membership every name of eminence in the department of science in Switzerland, besides several from other countries. I regret that I only arrived in time to be present at its closing séance for the year, but this privilege I had the happiness of enjoying through the kind attention of the Rev. M. Duby, a clergyman of the Cantonal Church of Geneva, by whom I was introduced. The greater part of the business having been already transacted, I had no opportunity of listening to any communications or addresses of much importance, with the exception of one by Professor Agassiz, in which he gave an able though brief resume of the phenomena and laws of glaciers. What, I must confess, I found chiefly interesting, was the seeing and making myself familiar with the persons of one or two distinguished savans, whose names I had long been accustomed to repeat, and with whose services to the cause of science I was, in some measure, familiar. The chair was occupied by M. de la Rive, the celebrated chemist; and besides the philosopher already mentioned, I was gratified with a sight

DES SCIENCES NATURELLES.

49

of Decandolle, the botanist, who worthily sustains the honour of his name, the veteran geologist Von Buch, and others whom I need not particularise.

At the close of the séance we adjourned to a hotel on the opposite bank of the lake, where the society dined together. To the honour of philosophy, I must say that it appeared to exercise any thing but a prejudicial effect upon the appetites of its cultivators. One of the speakers, after dinner, (not, I must add, however, the man in most repute for wisdom among the rest,) delivered an eulogium on the study of natural science, in which he dwelt upon its advantages as a gymnastic for the muscles, in the bodily exercise required for the prosecution of it; as a gymnastic for the brain, in the mental exertion to which it stimulates; and, finally, as a gymnastic for the stomach, in proof of which he confidently appealed to the performances that day of the assembled savans of Switzerland!"

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After dinner we had abundance of speeches, toasts, and songs. The last were generally the composition of the party by whom they were sung, or rather, I should say, chanted in a sort of recitation, for singing it could hardly be called. I brought some of these away with me, which the authors had thought fit to print; but I shall not insert any of them here, as I cannot bring myself to believe that the perusal of them would inspire my readers with any very elevated conceptions of the festive poetry of Switzerland. The most interesting event during this part of the day's proceedings, was the drinking of the health of Agassiz, in connection with his intended visit to America. A

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