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seated on a hill; on either bank beautiful white cottages, intermixed with mangrove and cocoa trees, and fruitful vineyards; the Indians paddling down the river with their unwieldy canoes, the fishermen on the beach drying their nets, and nature displaying her gayest verdure, form altogether a coup d'ail, which it is impossible to conceive much more to describe. The other is a very long wooden bridge, in which there is nothing at all remarkable, more than being quite open to the breeze which comes down the river. It is on that account much resorted to in the evening, especially by the English, who, seated on each side, often amuse themselves by criticising, with the characteristic liberty of their country, the numerous passengers.

Most of the houses in Pernambuco are lofty, and, instead of glass windows, have green lattices, which has a pretty effect, especially as all their houses are white, and frequently surrounded with beautiful evergreens. All these windows are prominent, not unlike the Elizabethan windows, seen in some of our old country towns. During the morning, the better sort of Portuguese are seen leaning out of them, muffled up in their long cloaks, and exhibiting a genuine picture of indolence. They never live on the ground floor, which is commonly used for cellars or shops. The ladies are only seen towards the evening, peeping through the lattices; very few ever appearing in the streets, and then closely veiled, and in a kind of hammock with curtains, carried by two slaves on a long pole. They are remarkably partial to the English, which occasions much jealousy, though I do not think the Portuguese are so much addicted to this passion as they are represented to be. I have observed the same in many foreign nations; a circumstance for which I cannot account, unless it is that the English are more handsome than any other people.

There are a good many coffee-houses here, which are known by a small round board, with Casa de Caffé written upon it. The principal one is kept by a priest, and is the common resort of all the merchants, serving them as an exchange. Good wine, sangaree, and a tolerable breakfast, can be procured here at all hours of the day. Here is also an excellent billiard table, and several backgammon tables, well frequented, especially on a Sunday, the day these amusements are mostly followed, according to the custom of the Roman Catholic religion. About eleven in the morning, the merchants make a tolerable show at this place, and a good deal of business is transacted.

Since the Prince Regent came to the Brazils, the trade has increased greatly. Before this period it was carried on with Europe in large ships, similar to our East Indiamen; but it is of course now thrown open to all nations. The Portuguese merchants are rich and respectable. In all their transactions, payment

is made at the time of purchase; they have no idea of credit. Most of our English merchants are young men, sent out as agents from houses in England; they are a very wild set. It always appeared a mystery to me, how they contrived to live in such a gay style on a trifling commission; but I have invariably remarked, that English agents abroad live much superior to their employers at home; and while the latter become bankrupts, they in general get rich. The reason is obvious. A Mr. Pinches and a Mr. Bowen, were the only two I should have had sufficient confidence in to have entrusted with any concern of importance. I am convinced the highest trust might be reposed in these worthy gentlemen.

The harbour of Pernambuco is wonderfully convenient. It is formed by a natural pier, extending in a direct line many miles. This is a coral reef, so exactly straight and even, that one would almost imagine it the work of art. The vessels lie alongside each other in tiers, moored head and stern, about half-pistol shot from the shore, and close to this reef, which at high water spring tides is nearly on a level with the surface of the sea, and forms an excellent barrier. This place is in latitude 8° south, consequently the heat is excessive, the thermometer frequently being at 50° in the shade. During the night it is always calm, with a good deal of lightning. About nine in the morning the sea breeze comes gradually, and is strongest about noon, when by degrees it dies away into a calm that generally takes place towards sunset.

Pernambuco is very well fortified in appearance, but it would make a poor resistance. The carriages of their guns are decayed, and no one can conceive such a set of ragged fellows as their soldiers, no two of whom are dressed in the same uniform. An officer on duty with his guard, would form an admirable group for such a pencil as Hogarth's. All vessels on arriving in the harbour are obliged to land their powder, which is conveyed by proper officers to a magazine, and returned on departure. However, whilst deposited here, it is in general well tithed. They can raise 5000 military, comprising the militia; however, the greatest part of these are blacks.

The governor of Pernambuco is generally a Portuguese nobleman, and lives in great state. On passing through the streets, every respect is shown him. This office is by no means permanent, for a new one comes every two or three years from Rio Janeiro. The present governor, who is an enterprising man, came by land from Bahia, escorted by five hundred troops. They had, in their journey, some very severe skirmishes with the natives, who are called the Japayos, and are Cannibals. By disease, wild beasts, enemies, and other evils, very little more than half of them arrived safe.

The churches at Pernambuco are large buildings. They contain some excellent paintings, and each of them has a number of chancels, or more properly chapels, dedicated to particular saints, which on certain days are shown, ornamented with flowers. They are quite open, having no pews, and the people either stand or kneel. All are very richly furnished; in short, no one can conceive the grandeur the insides some of them exhibit. They are generally very large, with a great number of pillars, which gives them the appearance of cathedrals. One large consecrated lamp is continually burning over the high altar, and also a great number of tapers, in candlesticks, about seven or eight feet high, some of them of massy silver. The glimmering of these candles at noon day, has a curious and rather solemn effect. The doors are generally open, and a good many people are seen on their knees at prayers, before the different saints; others receiving the sacrament, some confessing, and Padres (priests) gliding from one door to another, or traversing with a silent sanctified deportment the different parts of the church. These conspire to give a stranger an idea, that they have enough to do. A confessional chair, of which there are generally six or eight in a church, is made very large and high, so that the priest, who is in it, is not seen. Those who wish to confess (mostly women) go singly, and kneeling down opposite a lattice work in the side of it, ease their burthened consciences, and get absolution. Besides the church itself, there is always under the same roof apartments for the Padres, or Fathers, (as the Portuguese style the priests) in which they live much in the same manner as our monks of old, having their cells and a large room where they dine together.

There are numbers of helpless old women, who live constantly in the churches, and are subsisted by what is left at their tables. These priests have the character of being very hospitable; and are so serviceable to foreigners, that for a trifling sum they will not only show the relicts of their churches, but also where the most beauteous and courteous ladies of the town reside. The English residents give strange accounts of some of them, who, it is said, are much addited to a vice very prevalent in Roman Catholic countries. I was told of another circumstance, which will perhaps scarcely be credited. It is the province of one of them to recommend objects of charity; this man carries on a most profitable trade by it. He is known to have in his pay several loathsome decrepid wretches, such as are most calculated to excite charity, and stations them at the corner of streets best frequented. They are furnished by him with a written testimonial, and are allowed by him a small share of the profits. I cannot say how the religious are supported, but great numbers are always seen in the streets, dressed in their robes, soliciting alms; for which

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purpose they carry a small square box, with the figure of Christ, or some particular saint, painted upon it. I observed, that, notwithstanding they consider the English as heretics, they do not scruple to receive their money, for which they bestow in return a benediction; and so well are they aware of the liberality of our countrymen, that if a Portuguese and an Englishman are standing together in the street, they will never fail to accost the Englishman first.

In every street there are different images of the Virgin Mary and the saints, which, on particular days are exposed to view, superbly illuminated with a number of large candles. About eight in the evening the children in the neighbourhood assemble round them and sing hymns. This has a pleasing effect, especially as they keep time with great exactness, and have a person to direct them who rings a little bell, whilst they are singing particular parts. Another custom seems remarkably strange. Twice every day, about ten in the morning and seven in the evening, at the tolling of a bell every thing in an instant is at a stand. Men, women, or children, whether in the streets or the houses, instantly pull off their hats, cross themselves, and say a short prayer. This continues about a minute. At the second tolling every thing goes on again as usual. During this time a particular part of the mass is being performed in the grand church. Although this has a striking effect, the positions people are some times caught in are very ludicrous. It appears almost the instantaneous effect of magic. It was my good fortune to be here during Lent, which is most rigidly observed. The illuminations on the churches, fire-works, and processions during the Easter, were very grand. The latter surpass any thing of the kind I ever heard of. It is impossible to avoid smiling at such a combination of superstition and folly, and at the same time being sensibly struck with the immense value of the images displayed on the occasion. One of them I shall describe. Although I may not perhaps be exactly correct in the number of priests, monks, &c. I assure you I am nearly so. It took place on Easter Sunday, about three o'clock in the afternoon. The order was as follows:

Black girls strewing flowers.

A trumpeter covered entirely with black crape, close fitted to his body, with two large horns and red eyes.

Four priests carrying a large red flag with gold fringe, having a white cross upon it.

Twenty monks in their robes, two and two, the first carrying a consecrated lamp.

Thirty white children, dressed as cherubims and seraphims, with gauze wings edged with tinsel, large feathers on their heads, carrying emblems of peace, plenty, &c.

The bishop in his robes, sprinkling holy water from a vase carried by a priest, and bestowing his blessings as he passed, by lifting up his hands and frequent ejaculations.

A priest carrying a cross of solid gold.

Forty priests, two and two, singing hymns at intervals.

An officer and twelve soldiers, six abreast, with arms reversed.

A band of music, playing at intervals solemn airs.

Forty Gray Friars in their robes, two and two.

Black officer and twelve black soldiers, six abreast, with arms reversed.

Large oblong square pedestal, representing the nativity of Christ in figures of silver, as large as life, carried by twelve slaves.

Twenty Carthusian monks with lighted tapers, two and two.

Another pedestal showing Christ's preaching in the wilderness, in figures of silver, carried by twelve slaves

Twenty Carmelite monks in their robes, carrying tapers, two and

two.

Another pedestal showing Christ's transfiguration, in figures of silver, carried by twelve slaves.

Twenty choristers singing hymns.

Pedestal showing the Last Supper, carried by twelve slaves.
Twenty Gray Friars with tapers.

Pedestal showing Christ being scourged, carried by twelve men.
A priest carrying a black flag.

Thirty priests with lighted tapers, two and two.

A pedestal with the crucifixion in gold, the rays round Christ's head set with precious stones, carried by twelve slaves.

Fifty poor black women, two abreast, weeping.

Pedestal showing the tomb with the Virgin Mary weeping over it, in figures of silver, carried by twelve slaves.

Eifty black women weeping.

Pedestal showing the ascension of Christ into Heaven, in silver, carried by twelve slaves.

Fifty choristers singing hymns.

About two hundred priests and monks in their different orders, six abreast, each order with a gold or silver cross.

An officer and twenty-four black soldiers, shouldered arms.

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About five hundred black soldiers, part of the militia.

Every one seemed sensibly affected with the solemnity of the scene. As the procession passed along, the people fell on their knees with uplifted hands, and when the crucifixion came by I observed most of them wept. From the first image as far as the governor, was a row on each side, consisting of all the gentlemen in the

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