Russian America, while by subsequent ukases this claim was carried to the 51° of latitude. By treaty of 1825, the boundary-line betwixt the Russian and British possessions in this quarter is declared to run from Demarcation Point, on the coast of the Icy ocean, to Mount St Elias, near the Pacific. But from the latter point to the S. extremity of Prince of Wales' Island, the whole coast is declared to belong to Russia. From 67° to 64° 10′, along the eastern shore of Behring's straits, the Russian settlements are nothing but huts frequented by Siberian hunters. The principal posts, reckoning from N. to S. along this district, are Kigiltach, Leglelachtoke, Tugulin, Netschick, Tschinigriun, Chibalech, Topar, Pintepala, Agulichan, Chavani, and Nugran, near Cape Rodney. These habitations of the American natives, are from 90 to 120 miles distant from the huts of the Tschoutskis of the Asiatic continent. Behring's straits, which separates them, is filled with desert islands, the most northern of which is called Imaglin. South of Norton Sound, to Cape Malowodan, (Littlewater,) there are no Russian establishments, but there are a great number of huts belonging to the natives, collected together along the shore, between 63° 20′ and 60o 5′ N. lat. Bristol bay of captain Cook, on the N. of the peninsula of Alashka, is called by the Russians Kamisezkaia Guba. They preserve none of the British names given by Cook and Vancouver, in their charts, N. of 55° N. lat.

From Bristol bay to New Cornwall, the coast is inhabited by five tribes, forming as many great territorial divisions, on the coast of what is called Russian America; their names are, the Koniagi, Kenayzi, Tshugatschi, Ugalachmiuti, and Koliugi. The most northern part of the peninsula of Alashka, and the isle of Kodiak, belongs to the Koniagi. A great inland lake, more than 80 miles long, by 36 miles broad, communicates with Bristol bay, by means of the river Igtschiagick. There are two forts and several factories on the island of Kodiak, or Kightack, and the small adjacent islands.-The Kenayzi inhabit the western coast of Cook's Inlet, or the Kenayskaia Guba. The Rada factory, visited by Vancouver, is situated here, in N. lat. 61° 8'; and notwithstanding the rigour of the climate, grain thrives well on the banks of Cook's river.-The Tschutgatski inhabit the coast between Cook's Inlet and the head of Prince William's Sound, (Tshugatskaia Guba.) There are three small factories, and three small forts, in this district,—fort Alexander, near the mouth of Port Chatham,— the forts of the Tuk's Island, (Green Island of Vancouver,)-and Tchalca, (Hinchinbrook Island.) The Ugalachmiuti extend from Prince William's Sound to Behring's bay (Bay of Jackutal.) The factory of St Simon is near Cape Suckling, (Cape Elie of the Russians.)-The Koliugi inhabit the mountainous country of New Norfolk and the northern part of New Cornwall. The proximity of mountains covered with eternal snow, and the extent of the American continent in the latitude of 58°, render the climate of this part of New Norfolk, and the country of Ugalachmiuti, excessively cold and inimical to the progress of vegetation. A mountainous belt runs along the whole coast from the head of Cook's Inlet in N. lat. 60°, to the S.E. point of the gulf of Georgia, in N. lat. 49°, where this belt joins the chain that traverse the district of the Lower Columbia. The most conspicuous summits of this chain are Mount St Elias, visible 60 leagues distance on sea; and Mount Fairweather.

The N.W. coast, to the S.E. of the Russian establishments, belongs to the United States, and is denominated by the different appellations of New Hanover, New Georgia, and New Albion.-Off the coast of New Georgia,

and separated from it by the gulf of the same name, is the large island of Quadra, or Vancouver, extending 220 B. miles in length from the S.E. point of the inlet of Juan de Fuca, to Queen Charlotte's Sound on the N.W., which separates it from Calvert's island, and containing a surface of more than 14,000 B. square miles.-The channel of Tasis separates this great island from the small island of Yucuatl, named Nootka by Cook and sacceeding navigators; though this latter appellation is unknown to the natives, who have no word in their language similar to Nootka, excepting Noutchi, which signifies a mountain. This small island is about 20 miles broad, and contains, on its eastern side, the port of Nootka, or Yucuatl, in W. long. 126° 35', and N. lat. 49° 35' 10". The climate of Nootka, and the coast in its vicinity, is remarkably mild; and though in the same parallel with the mouth of the St Lawrence, the smallest streams are not frozen till January. The natives, like those of the northern coast of Norway, are almost strangers to the noise of thunder. All European vegetables were found upon trial to succeed well; but maize and wheat, from too great luxuriance of vegetation, never ripened. The hills are covered with pines, oaks, cypresses, rose-bushes, vaccinium, and romedes. The trees are of vigorous growth and great size; and among the rocks and borders of the woods, are strawberry plants, raspberries, currants, and gooseberrybushes, all in a flourishing state. The principal animals are racoons, martins, and squirrels. Birds are not numerous, but the true humming-bird was observed. They are, besides, uncommonly shy, from their being continually harassed by the natives, who take them for food, and use their feahters as ornaments. Fish are still scarcer than birds. The natives are in general rather below the middle size, but plump in their persons though not muscular; and the general appearance of the females is similar to that of the males. Their bodies are covered with red paint; but their faces are ornamented with a variety of colours, as black, a bright red, and white, which last gives them a ghastly appearance. Though seemingly docile, courteous, and good-natured, yet they are quick in resenting injuries.— Beyond the island of Quadra, to the N.W., is the entrance of Queen Charlotte's sound, communicating with the coast by a great number of inlets, bays, and islands. These last, denominated Queen Charlotte's islands, extend from 51° 42′ to 54° 18′ N. lat., and from 129° 54′ to 133° 18' W. long., and are named Washington isles, by American navigators. Dixon's inlet separates these islands on the N.W. from the archipelago of the Prince of Wales. The principal island, denominated Prince of Wales island, by Vancouver, and Isla de Ulloa, by the Spaniards, is the most western of the group, and of large extent. Port Buccarelli, on its western coast, is a fine haven, surrounded by seven volcanoes, from the summit of which are continually thrown up flames and ashes. This port lies in 55° 24 N. lat. Immediately to the N., and separated from them by a strait or entrance, are King George's islands, and the Archipelago of Pitt. At the N.E. extremity of this group, Cross Sound penetrates far into the continent.

The whole population of the N.W. coast, together with its islands, from the entrance of Juan de Fuca to Cross Sound, is supposed not to exceed 10,000 persons. At the entrance of Prince William's sound are three small islands, denominated Montague, Hinchinbrooke, and Kay's islands. -West of Cook's inlet, a large cluster of islands stretches along the coast of America, and that of the peninsula of Alaska, as far to the S.W. as 144 leagues E. of the peninsula of Kamtschatka. This cluster has been described in a previous chapter under the name of the Aleutian islands.

TRACT OF THE LOWER COLUMBIA.] The tract watered by the Lower Columbia and its numerous branches, is bounded by the Rocky mountains on the E.; the Upper Columbia, and the straits of Juan de Fuca on the N.; the North Pacific on the W.; and New California and Mexico on the S. It extends along the sea-coast, from Cape Mendocino, N. lat. 40° 29′, to Cape Flattery, in N. lat. 48° 55', or 600 British miles of direct distance; but inland it extends from 660 to 700 British miles N. and S., namely, from N. lat. 40° 30′ to 50° 35', along the crest of the Rocky mountains. Its longitudinal extent from E. to W. varies from 13 to 14 degrees, or from 600 to 650 British miles, namely, from 111° and 113° to 125° W. long.; but in the northern parts, the extent from E. to W. does not exceed 450 British miles, in the parallel of 48° N. lat., only 9 degrees of longitude intervening between the Rocky mountains and the eastern shore of the gulf of Georgia which separates the continent from Vancouver's Island. Its total superficies may be estimated at 400,000 British square miles. From Cape Mendocino to Cape Flattery, the coast runs in an uninterrupted line, unbroken by islands, sounds, or gulfs, and differing in this respect from all the N.W. coast, which, as far as Behring's Straits, is studded with islands, and broken with numerous creeks and sounds. The whole of this coast between the parallels of 38° and 48° has usually been denominated New Albion,-an appellation founded on the very inaccurate opinion, that Sir Francis Drake first discovered the N.W. coast of America, between the above latitudes. The real matter of fact is, that the coast of New California had been examined as far as N. lat. 43°, by Cabrillo, an eminent Spanish navigator, in 1542, or 36 years previous to Drake's voyage. To speak more correctly, the term New Albion ought to be restricted to that part of the coast which lies beyond the limits of Cabrillo's discoveries, namely, from Cape White of Martin de Aguilar, to the entrance of Juan de Fuca. The coast was again examined by Sebastian Viscayno, in 1602, to the mouth of a river, in 43° N. lat., and believed by Martin de Aguilar to be the western extremity of the straits of Anian.

The mouth of the Columbia was first discovered in 1775, by Quadra, commander of a Spanish voyage of discovery, who denominated it the entrance of Heceta, from the name of one of his colleagues, and the River of Ascension. The same coast was afterwards examined to the N. of Cape Orford, in N. lat. 43°, by the illustrious Cook, but without seeing the mouth of the Columbia. The appellation of the Columbia was first given to this river by the American navigator, Gray, not in memory of the great Columbus, but from the name of the sloop which he commanded. Its mouth was afterwards diligently explored by the Spanish navigators, Galeano and Valdez, in 1792; and the whole coast was minutely explored by captain Vancouver, who, as he was unable to discover any entrance between N. lat. 45° and the channel of Fuca, doubted of the existence of such a river as the Columbia, or the entrance of Heceta, though one of his own lieutenants sailed a considerable distance up the river without any suspicion of its being the Columbia.

The merit of first exploring the interior of this tract is due to the Americans, who, under captains Lewis and Clarke, crossed the Rocky mountains in 1805; and after a journey of nine weeks over tremendous mountains and precipices, arrived at the Kooskooskee, one of the tributary streams of the Columbia, on the 18th of October; and, sailing down the stream in canoes made by themselves, arrived at its mouth on the

7th of November, after a voyage of three weeks. The country has been since explored by other American parties, for the purpose of founding. a colonial establishment at the mouth of the river, and exporting furs to Canton, so that both the interior and coast of this tract may be considered as now pretty well known. On the coast, the principal capes to the N. of Cape Mendocino are, capes Orford, Gregory, Perpetua, Foulweather, Lookout, Point Adams, Cape Disappointment, (both these last being on the north and south sides of the entrance of the Columbia,) and capes Shoalwater and Flattery. The openings or bays are those of the Trinity, St George, Hayley's Bay, at the mouth of the Columbia, and Whitby's Bay, and the entrance of Fuca, which terminates the

coast.

Physical Features.] The general appearance of the country adjoining the sea is flat, but rising inland gradually into hills of moderate elevation; farther eastward, the prospect is bounded by a range of snowy mountains. The interior consists of extensive plains, or prairies without timber, extending 350 British miles from E. to W., on both sides of the Columbia, but gradually contracting in extent to the N., to a breadth of 200 miles. This district may be denominated the valley of the Columbia, as comprising all the open space between the Rocky mountains, and another range of mountains equally high, or perhaps higher, which runs parallel with the coast, as far as Cook's Inlet, in N. lat. 61° 29′, and W. long. 148° 43'. On the south of the Columbia, the country seems to be excessively mountainous and totally destitute of timber in that part which lies between the western Snowy range and the Rocky mountains. Between that range and the sea, timber is abundant, especially pines, some of which are said to be 300 feet high, and from 36 to 45 feet in circumference, frequently presenting a solid trunk for upwards of 170 feet without a single protruding branch. Between the mountains, the climate is unusually mild, and the prospect generally consists of extensive lawns crowned with luxuriant grass, or diversified with woods and flowers.

Climate, &c.] Captains Lewis and Clark wintered on the coast, from the 7th of November to the latter end of March; and though the weather was tempestuous and rainy, yet there was comparatively little snow, showing a remarkable difference of climate between the eastern and western coasts of America in the same parallel of latitude. The soil is excellent, being a light sandy loam, of very considerable depth in many places, and abundantly mixed with decayed vegetables. It is also excellent on the plains of the Columbia, above where it enters the ridge of Snowy mountains, in its passage to the sea. Quadrupeds and birds of every description abound; but they are comparatively scarce in the high country immediately W. of the Rocky mountains. Every animal common to the N.W. coast of America, is to be found here; and the grizzly bear, so formidable to the Indians, is by no means a scarce animal in this quarter.

Mountains.] The whole tract may be said to be intersected by three chains of mountains. The 1st range belongs to the great chain of the Rocky mountains, repeatedly mentioned when describing the United States. The most western range of this broad, elevated, and extensive chain, runs across the upper courses of the north and south branches of the Snake or Lewis river, barring all access by water, in that direction, to the coast, or to the Lower Columbia.'

1 A vain attempt was made by the American expedition in 1805, to descend the N.

The 2d range runs parallel with the coast, at the direct distance of from 120 to 150 British miles inland, stretching from N.W. to S.E. and crossing the Columbia and Multnomah rivers, in the lower parts of their courses. How far to the S.E. this range extends, is unknown; but in all probability, it runs as far to the S.E. as N. lat. 38°, and W. long. 117°, where it joins a snowy range, which runs between the Californian mountains and the course of the Rio Colorado. Its precise elevation is unknown; but many of the peaks soar far above the line of perpetual snow, as Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, Mount Regnier, Mount St Helen, and Mount Baker.

The 3d range seems to be the termination of the Californean range, to be afterwards described.

The Columbia.] The chief river is the Columbia, which receives into its expanded channel all the streams that water this country. This river was generally thought to be identical with the Tacoutchee Tesse, or Great river, discovered by Mackenzie, and the Oregan, or River of the West, of former geographers, but which is now ascertained to fall into the gulf of Quadra, on the Pacific, in 48° N. lat. Its source is unknown; but where Mackenzie struck it in N. lat. 54°, and W. long. 123°, it was 200 yards wide; and was joined a few miles farther down, by a much larger branch from the S.E. The great range of snow-clad mountains which runs parallel with the coast, prevents the Columbia from finding a direct course to the ocean; hence its direction is somewhat E. of S. from 54° to 46° N. lat., when its general course is almost due W. till it reaches the ocean, in N. lat. 46° 19′ 7′′, and W. long. 125°. From the point where Mackenzie struck it, to its mouth, cannot be less than 1000 British miles of direct distance by water; and how much farther it is from thence to its source, is wholly unknown. Where it is joined by the Lewis river, its breadth is 960 yards when it is at the lowest in the latter end of autumn. Its general depth below the rapids is 30 feet; and its general breadth from one to three miles, till its junction with the Multnomah; its waters are clear, and not muddy like those of the Missouri, to which it is inferior in depth and rapidity. The tide flows up the river 183 miles, and within 7 miles of the great rapids. Large sloops may ascend with safety, as high as the tide-water; and vessels of 300 tons burthen reach the en

branch of Lewis river. A similar attempt was made, in the latter end of 1811, to descend the S. E. branch of the same river, by a party of American hunters belonging to the New York fur-company, in order (as they imagined) to reach their establishment at the mouth of the Columbia, by a shorter, safer, and easier route, than that by the falls of the Missouri. After crossing, with great difficulty, several stupendous ridges of mountains, they at length reached the S. E. branch of Lewis river, formed by the junction of Henry's Fork with Mad river, down which they descended the stream about 400 miles to the N. W., in canoes, till they came to a place where the river was shut in by gloomy precipices at least 1000 feet of perpendicular height, and for 30 miles presenting a continued succession of falls, cascades, and rapids. They next came to a lofty range of snowy mountains, where the river forces a passage; and the banks being their only guide, they still kept as near to them as possible, by climbing over points of rocky projecting ridges, their canoes being now of no use, till, on the 3d of December, immense precipices, totally impassable, put an end to all hopes of following the margin of the stream, which-now reduced to the breadth of 40 yards-ran with incredible velocity, and so foamingly tumultuous, that even had the opposite bank been fit for their purpose, attempts at rafting would have been perfect madness. They now attempted to climb the mountains; but after ascending for half-a-day, they found, to their sorrow, that they were but half-way to the summit, and the snow already too deep for men in their emaciated state. They were therefore forced to return up the river, after a fatiguing march of 550 miles in 27 days, and seek the Columbia by a northern route; which they accomplished with great difficulty, after having lost several of their party, -some being drowned,-some having lost their senses, and gone raving mad,-some having perished with hunger,-whilst others were never heard of, having lost their way in the snow.