at the court of Napoleon. The portraits of her are very lovely, yet I am told they scarcely render her justice. One of the apartments of her villa (that, I believe, appropriated for taking café) is fitted up in the Egyptian style, and in it, on a slab of marble, stands an urn, with a suitable inscription, containing the heart of General Le Clerc, the first husband of the Princess, who died in Egypt.

A chapel or an oratory would be a more fitting place for this melancholy memento mori; but the Princess Pauline thinks differently, and likes to contemplate it while sipping her café.

TERRACINA, 14th.-Left Rome yesterday, driven from it by the oppressive heat, and the evil prophecies dinned into my ears of the malaria. I have no fears of the effect of either for myself, but I dare not risk them for others. Albano and its environs pleased me so much, that I should like to have sojourned in it some days. Before reaching it, we passed the tomb of the Horatii and Curiatii; and paused to look on a monument that recalled to memory the deep sympathy of youthful days, when perusing the stirring tale of the combat of these heroes, and the

brutality exercised by the conqueror to his sister. The lake Nemi is beautiful, so is Gensano; and the Mediterranean sent its fresh breezes across the parched country that intervenes between it and our route, to refresh us.

At Velletri, the evening setting in, and a recent attack by banditti having occurred, we were advised to take a guard; nay, more than advised, for the master of the post alleged the positive necessity of the measure, and the postilions expressed their dread of proceeding without an escort. Though not a little loth, we at length consented to adopt the precaution; and a guard soon made its appearance, equipped and mounted in a style so irresistibly comic, that it was difficult to keep a serious face while looking at them. They looked as if by no means inclined to share in our hilarity; au contraire, they exhibited such evident marks of trepidation, that one of our party thought it advisable to hint to them, that should the brigands make their appearance, and our guard not face them manfully, he would certainly fire on these last; a threat that seemed to alarm them not a little, as they saw that our gentlemen and servants were well armed.

The sun was gilding the scenery with its last bright rays, when we left Velletri; and a more romantic picture could hardly be imagined. The well-appointed English carriages and fourgon, presented a striking contrast with the small rough horses that drew them rapidly along, with harness half rope, half leather: carriages and horses highly characteristic of their different countries. These were preceded by a courier, galloping along and clacking his whip, evidently not a little vain of his laced coat, and the silver badge of the armorial bearings of his employer bound round his arm. Then followed two of the guard, keeping up with difficulty, to the leaders of the first carriage, then two more at each side of the carriage, and a similar escort for the second carriage and for the fourgon. The wild and sallow countenances of the escort and postilions, formed a curious contrast with the plump, sleek, fresh-coloured faces of the English servants. The effects of malaria were as visible in the first, as were those of beef and beer in the second.

On we went, rapidly and uninterruptedly, over the Pontine Marshes, no human being, or house,

breaking the solitude of the baneful soil between the posts. The persons at the post-houses looked fearfully haggard; and their warning to us not to sleep while passing the Marshes, was invested with solemnity by the palor of their cadaverous faces, and the hollow tones of their voices.

We reached Terracina without having seen a brigand and dismissed our guard without having had any opportunity of judging of their valour. The aspect of the country between Velletri and Terracina is savage and desolate, overgrown with masses of thick, tangled, rank grass, broken by pools of stagnant water, whose deleterious vapours impregnate the air. Herds of wild buffaloes are scattered over the dreary landscape, and flocks of water-fowls flit over the dark pools; their wild and melancholy cries adding to the gloom with which the scene impresses the mind.

At Terracina, the country presents a cheering aspect, for it is rich and luxuriant; and the many vestiges of antiquity scattered amid its environs, add to the interest of the picture. This was the site of the ancient Anxur, and boasts many attractions for the antiquary; while for the lover of classical lore it

is rich in associations, for near it are many scenes of the Eneid and Odyssey. The ruins of the Castle of Theodoric, which crown the steep that commands the town, have a fine effect; and the contrast of a Gothic ruin near the classical ones, gives interest to both.

MOLA DI GAETA, 16th.-The aspect of this charming place, and the desire of exploring its environs, have induced us to devote one day to the task. Never was there a more exhilarating prospect than the one now spread out before me, from the window of the Albergo di Cicerone. A thick mass of orange-trees, crowned with their golden fruit, and mingled with luxuriant myrtles, divide the terrace on which my window opens, from the sea, whose blue and placid waters are at this moment sparkling with the reflection of a brilliant sun. The promontory of Misenum bounds the view at one side, and Mola di Gaeta the other. The air is balmy, refreshed by the soft breezes from the sea, which are impregnated with the delicious odour of the orange flowers, over which they float ere they reach the terrace. Existence becomes positive en