E. M. Cole

THE IDLER

IN

ITALY.

BY THE COUNTESS OF BLESSINGTON.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1839.

PRINTED BY WILLIAM WILCOCKSON, ROLLS BUILDINGS, FETTER LANE.

CONTENTS

OF THE

SECOND VOLUME.

GENOA, continued.-Magnificence of Palaces-Picturesque Attire of the

Women-The Mazero-Flower Market-Jewels and Dress of the

Women-Visit from Lord Byron-His Abandon in Conversation-

His Abuse of England-His Freedom from Conceit-He dines with

the Authoress-Death of Count Andriani at Nice-Palazzo Serra—

Culinary Operations in the Streets-Death of Lord Mountjoy-

Byron's dislike of Cant-His Affectation of the nil admirari-His

Love of Flowers-His Charity-His surprising Memory-His

Horsemanship-Contrasts of Splendour and Squalidness throughout

the City-Byron decided on going to Greece-Captain Wright-

Mr. Hill, British Minister to Sardinia- King of Sardinia's Visit to

Genoa-Monks in the Streets-Byron's Opinion of Music and

Botany-Church of St. Etienne-Byron's Sensitiveness-Church of

St. Lorenzo-The Sacro Catino-Church of St. Ambrose-Misery

of Headaches-Their Advantages-Byron's Constitution injured by

Abuse of Medicine-His Anxiety to be thin-His ascetic Habits-

Lomelini Gardens-Byron introduces Mr. Barry, the Banker-

Doria Palace-Byron's proposed Plot for a Tragedy on Andrea

Doria-Account of the Countess Guiccioli, by Mr. Barry-Byron

and the Gambas-Affair at Pisa-Reflections on Byron's Domestic

Character as relates to Lady Byron-Causes of Separations in

Wedded-life-Byron's Suspicion of Colonel M., a friend of Lady

Byron-His Mimicry of Acquaintances-The Age of Bronze-Don

Juan-Its proposed Conclusion-The Opera-Byron denies his in-

tention of depriving Lady Byron of her Daughter-His Emotion and

b

-

Remarks on this Subject--He writes a Letter to this effect-Always

speaks of Lady Byron with Respect-His Imagination more exercised

than His Affections-The Age of Bronze-TheTheatre-Ambrogetti

-No Notice taken of Royalty at the Opera-Byron's Indignation at

some Attacks upon him in Galignani - Instance of his Superstition -

Visit I Paradiso with Byron-His Impromptu - Political Discus-

sions avoided at Dinner Parties abroad-Political Patrons of Artists

in England-Markets-Flower Mart-Predominant Passion for

Flowers among Italians-Genoa from the Sea-Byron deterred

from writing a Tragedy on Fiesco-His Reflections on writing on a

subject handled by another-His Belief in his Premature Death-

His Desultory Reading-His Presentiment of Dying in Greece - His

Opinion that a Tomb in Westminster would not be denied him-His

Opinion of his Treatment in England-His admiration of Mr.

Trelawny - His Commendation of Mr. Canning-His Annoyance

at his own ill-success as a Politician-His Excitability, probably a

cause-Lord Blessington purchases Byron's Yatch, the Bolivar-

Authoress parts with Mameluke to Byron-Arrival of Lady Hast-

ings and Family, in the Glasgow, Ship of War-Instance of

Byron's Parsimony-Visit to the Glasgow-Byron Dines with

Authoress for the last time-His Despondency on going to Greece -

His regret at leaving Italy, and the Countess Guiccioli-Religious

Festival-Procession-Religious Festival at a neighbouring Village

-Parting with Lord Byron-His Melancholy Presentiment 1-94

LUCCA.-Beautiful Scenery on the Road from Genoa-Port of St.

Margaritta-Head-dress of the Women-Fire Flies-Italian

Superstition respecting them-Carrara-Its Marble-Busts of the

Duke of Wellington-Massa-Ramparts of Lucca, the favorite

Promenade of the Aristocracy-Their Equipages-The Women-

The Beaux-The Cathedral-The Palace

94-101

FLORENCE. The Medici-Associations-Architecture-Piazza del Gran
Duca-Palazzo Vecchio-Gualdrada—Her Story-Giovanni Buon-
delmonte-Climate of England and Italy contrasted-Villas-The
Cascine-Gallery-Venus Medici-Titian's Venus-Dancing Faun
-Niobe and her Daughters-Wrestlers-Appolino-the Arrotino-
Heroes of Antiquity-Mercury of John of Bologna-Raphael --
Titian-Michael Angelo-Endymion of Guercino-Parmigiano-

Corregio Benvenuto Cellini-Gabinetto Fisico-Cosway-His

Paradoxes-Laurentian Library-Church of Santa Croce Fasole

-Milton-Galileo-Boccacio-Cathedral-Church of Santa Maria

Novella-Friendship between Boccacio and Petrarch-Palazzo Piti

Luther-Salvator Rosa-Vandyke-Bronzino-Canova's Venus-

Associations of the Pitti Palace-Cosimo, First Duke of Medici-

Eleonore de Toledo-Duke of Ferrara-Cardinal John, Don Garcia

-Countess of Albany-James Stuart-Alfieri-Similarity between

him and Byron-Capelli del Depositi-Sacristia Nuova-Bartolini's

Studio-Love of the English for Portraits and Busts 101-151

SIENA.-Cathedral-Pope Joan-Chiaji Chapel-Earthquakes of 1797

-Popes' Gregory VII. and Alexander III.

RADICOFANI.-Buon Convento, scene of the Poisoning of the Emperor
Henry VII., by a Friar, at the Sacrament-Lake Bolseno-Brigand
Cavern-Orvieto-Montefiascone-Viterbo-Funeral

151-159

159-162

ROME.-First View-Corso-Mournful Contemplations-Coliseum, by

Moonlight Duchess of Devonshire-St. Peter's Museum of

the Vatican-Apollo Belvidere-Pantheon-the City from the

Monte Pincio-Villa Borghese-Capitol-Dying Gladiator-

Museum of the Vatican by Torchlight-The Pope-Cardinal Gon-

salvi-Villa of Princess Pauline Borghese-the Heart of General

Le Clerc-Driven from Rome by the oppressive Heat. 162-182

TERRACINA.-Tomb of the Horatii and Curiatii-Take an Escort at

Velletri―Their Appearance and Fears-Pontine Marshes-Associa-

tions with the Eneid and Odyssey-Castle of Theodoric 182-184

MOLA DI GAETA.-Albergo de Cicerone-Site of Cicero's Formianum-
Spot where he was Murdered—Unburied Corpse of the Constable
de Bourbon-Basso Relievo by Salpion, an Athenian Sculptor,
184-185
NAPLES.-First View-Campo Santo-Bay-House-hunting-Gaiety of
the Streets at Night-Vesuvius-Engage the Palazzo Belvedere, at
Vomero-Drives-Grotto di Posilippo-Chiaja-The King-Prince
and Princess of Salerno-Princess Christine-Description of the
Palazzo Belvedere-Neapolitan Cooks supply Family Repasts at a
stipulated Price per Head-Sir William and Lady Drummond—
Sir William Gell-Hon. K. Craven-Mr. Hamilton, Minister to