by Pinturicchio, from designs by Raphael. They represent the remarkable events in the life of Pius II. It is asserted that Raphael painted, as well as designed, some of these pictures; but if so, his pencil, at that period, possessed little of the grace and exquisite purity which afterwards characterised it. These paintings are remarkable for nothing but a vividness of colour, which even time has not succeeded in mellowing.

The only books in the library are a few volumes of sacred music in manuscript, on vellum, beautifully illuminated; the labours of a monk, whose patience deserves no less applause than his skill, for the time employed to paint these embellishments must have surely tried it severely. The fountain at Siena is visited by all travellers, who taste its sparkling water, immortalized by the praise of Dante.

The celebrated picture of the Sibyl, by Peruzzi, at Fonte Giusta, fully justifies Lanzi's commendation. It is full of a solemn inspiration, worthy the prediction (the birth of Christ to Augustus) which she is represented as uttering. The Piazza del Campo has an imposing effect, and reminds one of old pictures representing the scene of ancient games. The Palazzo Publico is appropriated to different uses, as heterogeneous as can be well imagined; one portion being assigned to the courts of law, another to the theatre, and a prison fills the rest—a strange union! where, beneath one roof, pleasure is encouraged, crime judged, and criminals incarcerated.

The earthquakes of 1797 have left ineffaceable traces of their power at Siena: the Dominican Church

was much injured. We vainly looked in this edifice for the Madonna of Guido da Siena, which I was very desirous to see, as being one of the few specimens remaining of so ancient a date, and as being celebrated for the beauty of its expression. The Sala del Consistorio has some frescos by Mecherino, remarkable for the skill displayed by that artist in the foreshortenings; and also possesses a few other pictures, but not worthy of notice. Marks of the earthquake are visible in the Sala del Consistorio, and its pictorial decorations; which serve the cicerone with an excuse for any fault found with the latter, as he attributes every defect to that cause. The Sienese are proud of their city having given birth to two Popes, Gregory VII. and Alexander III.; for not only did our cicerone refer to it, but our host reminded us of the fact with evident complacency. Of Gregory especially, he spoke with an unction that proved how much he admired that scourge of kings, who supported the papal dignity with all the fierté of a despotic sovereign rather than with the meekness of a Christian Pontiff. The boundless ambition and haughtiness of this man were never surpassed; in proof of which witness his conduct to Henry IV., Emperor of Germany. Nor was Alexander III. deficient in the ambition and fierté that characterised his townsman Gregory VII., for of the latter quality his conduct to the Emperor Frederic at Venice furnishes an irrefragable evidence, when he compelled that monarch to prostrate himself on the earth before him, and, as some assert, set his foot on his neck.

RADICOFANI, 3rd.-Nothing can be more cheerless and dreary than the route between Siena and this place, unless it be Radicofani itself, which is as sterile and gloomy a spot as ever traveller was condemned to contemplate. The marks of its volcanic character, scattered around in huge and shapeless masses of rock, and the brown and barren soil of the patches of earth left exposed, give the whole place an air of desolation that weighs down the spirits of those who gaze on it. And well does the inn harmonise with the savage scenery around it, for it is wretched beyond description! The very climate here partakes of the bleakness and chilling influence of the landscape; and, as wrapped in an India shawl and thick pelisse, I sit waiting in the comfortless apartment, which not even a pile of blazing wood can warm, I ask if this can indeed be Italy? It was only yesterday that, basking in the sunshine, we felt the heat oppressive; and now we experience the cold of a northern winter. How trying would such a rapid change of climate be to an invalid sent from England, and its many comfortable substitutes for a genial atmosphere, to seek the benefit of a milder climate! Few under such circumstances could escape the baleful influence of Radicofani.

On our route hither, we passed through Buon Convento, as wretched a place as the deed committed in it; and which has bequeathed its name to posterity. I refer to the poisoning of the Emperor Henry VII. through the medium of the Sacrament, administered by a Dominican friar. The reflections to which a crime of so dark a dye gives rise, are rendered still more gloomy by the view of the wild and sterile aspect

of the scene where it occurred; and this savage aspect pervades nearly the whole route from Buon Convento to Radicofani, which looks as if created to be the abode of banditti.

Between Radicofani and Rome, the Lake Balseno and the fine woods that surround it, were the only attraction. This beautiful lake is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient Volscinium. Some of the forests that bordered the road were cut down by order of Napoleon, to dislodge the hordes of banditti which infested them; and the trees, now stripped of their leafy honours, lie scattered around. We noticed a cavern cut in a steep rock, between which and the road a narrow but thick wood intervened. Two apertures, forming a door and window, had been ingeniously formed in the rock; and this rude cavern served as the abode of a band of brigands whose ferocity rendered a journey on this road an undertaking of no little danger.

At Orvieto, celebrated for the wine to which it gives its name, we were surrounded by not less than half a dozen persons with flasks of it which they loudly and repeatedly pressed us to purchase; while a troop of mendicants as loudly vociferated their appeals to our charity, in all the varied tones of supplication; one party urging the beneficial effect of their wine on the stomach, and the other the good to be derived to the soul from charity.

At Montefiascone, also celebrated for its vintage, similar entreaties to buy assailed us; and our courier, who was addressed as eccellenza," was offered, in our presence, the bribe of a couple of bottles, if he

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would recommend us to purchase some. seen from a distance, has an imposing effect. When we entered it, a funeral procession was passing, which presented to our eyes a singular spectacle. The streets through which the funeral advanced were lined with monks of all the different religious orders. Grey, blue, black, and white penitents marched slowly along, all wearing cowls, through which holes were cut for the eyes; and a vast number of men and boys dressed in white, with similarly perforated cowls, were placed at intervals, each troop bearing a banner of his order, and a badge on his arm. Every individual carried either a human skull or bone in one hand, and a lighted serge in the other. The grotesque and disgusting appearance of these bearers of the frail remnants of mortality was striking; and the quantity of sculls and bones conveyed the impression that a whole cemetery had been rifled to furnish them. The face of the dead was exposed, and completed the fearful picture.

ROME, 5th. The first view of the Eternal City burst onus from the hill above Baccano, and, notwithstanding a pre-determination not to indulge in the enthusiasm peculiar to female travellers, I confess it made my heart beat quicker, and I was forced to suppress the expressions of delight that rose to my lips. The clear bright atmosphere, lending to all beneath it a portion of its beauty, with the cupola of St. Peter's shining in the distant horizon, formed a picture never to be forgotten; and the flat and deserted Campagna, spreading far around, added to, instead of diminishing,