LESSON XXII

RUSSIA

ONCE more on board the Verbena, with a voyage of nearly six hundred miles before them, the travellers made good use of their time. There were letters and journals to be written, specimens of ores to be duly labelled with date and name of place, photographs to be looked over, while last, but by no means least, the country to which they were going was the theme of much conversation.

"There is not another country in all Europe of which I am so ignorant," said Miss Gray. "Of course we all know that it covers an immense area, has a large population, and is extremely wealthy in its natural resources; but as to the dress, customs, and homes of the people, our ideas are most vague."

"I think you will find that your experience is common," replied Mr. Larssen. "The annoyances of travelling in Russia are so many, that most tourists prefer to keep to the countries of Western Europe, while the close supervision of the press renders unreliable much that is published here."

"I hope that we shall have no difficulty in traversing the route we have laid out," remarked Mrs. Cartmell; "for I feel that this part of our journey will be extremely interesting to us, not only as sight-seers, but as students of history."

"I anticipate no trouble," returned Mr. French. "We shall leave all books and papers, as well as most of our baggage, on board the yacht. That will be carefully inspected by government officers, but we shall carry very little with us when we go on shore."

"Why will there be any more trouble about travelling in Russia than there was in England or Norway?" inquired Nellie. "We went wherever we chose there."

"The Russian government is very despotic, and allows no one, native or foreign, to be free from supervision. The press is strictly watched, and any article that meets with the

disapproval of the censors is quickly suppressed. If newspapers are sent to us from home, they will be examined before they are delivered, and any paragraph that is deemed objectionable will be cut or blocked out."

"Do Nihilists cause all this trouble?" inquired Miss Gray.

"A great deal of it, perhaps, though suspicion is inborn in every Russian's mind."

"What do the Nihilists want?" asked George.

"That is difficult to say. They have a secret organization, and make vague complaints and demands, seemingly convinced that whatever is, is wrong. The secret police force has numberless members constantly on the lookout, and woe betide the man or woman who is suspected of Nihilism! Imprisonment, fine, and exile to Siberia are almost sure to follow; and from Siberia few ever return.

"An absolute monarchy is always fearful, and inclined to suspect even its friends. The present Czar, Nicholas II., is a liberal man, but all advance in such a country must be slow."

"In a country like this it is not to be supposed that education receives much attention," said Miss Gray.

"No; the degree of illiteracy is terrible. There are schools and universities which are easily entered; but education is not compulsory, and, laziness being a strong trait in the national character, the number of students is small."

"There was a Russian boy coming over on the steamer with us who spoke English beautifully," said Fred. "He said he could speak French and German too, and didn't remember when he learned them."

"They are generally fine linguists, and speak easily when they cannot read or write a language. If the boy you met belonged to a wealthy family, they probably had a German nurse for the little ones, a French tutor for the older children, and employed an English governess part of the time; so that he learned to speak with each of them without an effort."

Conversation was here interrupted by Gustav, who came from the wheel-house to announce that they were in sight of Kronstadt, the great fortification which protects the capital. The cluster of islands upon which this place is built is so low that the fortresses seem to rise directly from the water; and, in fact, some of the foundation work is below the surface of the sea. It is considered an impregnable naval station, and the travellers looked with interest at the great granite-faced walls which frowned down on them. These, with the long line of magnificent docks and the numerous arsenals, formed a picture of war equipment which was depressing to the Americans. They felt a little homesick longing for a glimpse of the dear old Stars and Stripes. Just beyond the forts they could see some of the vessels belonging to the wonderful Russian navy.

"I suppose there are few navies in the world finer than this?" said Mr. French.

"Probably not. Russia spares no expense, and allows no improvement to escape her. Her seamen and soldiers are thoroughly drilled, and there is no nation that cares to come in conflict with her."

The yacht now entered the Neva River, and the twentymile sail up that imposing stream was full of excitement and interest. They were surrounded by shipping of all kinds; yachts, merchantmen, passenger-steamers, warships, and rowboats met and passed them. It seemed as if it must be some gala day. Soon the buildings of the splendid city appeared before them, glittering with a dazzling brightness as the sun shone on gilded domes and stately towers.

"What a magnificent city!" exclaimed Mrs. Cartmell; "but how did they ever come to build in such a place? The walls look almost as if their foundations must be under water."

"They are so in many instances.

Stockholm looks very

low to us as it stands on its islands, but St. Petersburg is built in a genuine morass. The site was selected by Peter the Great, who called it his window looking into Europe. He appreciated such an outlook as none of his predecessors had, and wished for greater power on the sea than Russia had ever possessed. He was a man of immense energy and iron will; and when he had formed a plan it was carried out, cost what it might. Therefore, when he determined to move the capital of Russia from Moscow to a new city on the Neva, the hard conditions of the case didn't hinder him. Thousands of workmen perished that the city might be built, but the emperor never faltered in his plan. In 1703 the first house was built, and nine years later Peter moved his court to the new capital."

"Wasn't Peter the Great the emperor who learned shipbuilding?" asked Nellie.

"Yes," replied her father. "He was one of the most

remarkable rulers that the world has ever seen. When he ascended the throne, he became convinced that in order to progress, Russia must have intercourse with other countries, and if foreign commerce was carried on, a navy must be organized to protect it. With this in view, he disguised himself, and went to work as a carpenter in a shipyard of Holland. He also made careful study of other arts which he thought would be useful, and then had his people instructed in them."

"Here are the custom-house officers," said Mr. French. "We will have our baggage examined, and make arrangements to go ashore immediately."

This formality was soon over. Mr. French gave directions to Captain Graham in regard to the care of the Verbena, and the travellers left the yacht, not to return to it for some time.

"I have engaged rooms at a good hotel," said Mr. Larssen. "It is on St. Isaac's Square, where we shall be conveniently situated, and where the outlook is pleasant."

During the short ride to the hotel our party realized vividly that they had entered a new country. Oriental influences were shown in the style of the buildings and their decoration.

The young Americans could hardly be persuaded to wait until after dinner before beginning their sight-seeing; but Gustav, who was usually so ready to accompany them, was strangely determined that every one should wait for that important meal. No lunch should be substituted. It must be the regular dinner.

"I have been here before, with papa," he said, “and I know you will enjoy the table."

His anxiety for their comfort was explained when the soup was brought, and his delight was great as he watched them taste the mixture and send it away. It was a remarkable compound; and though Russians are fond of it, foreigners rarely care for it. It is made of cold beer, in which one