and the plant roots so readily from cuttings that the stock may be readily increased without cost. The period of bloom of new plants of the begonia or fuchsia is quite long. In a sunny window of any room that is not heated above seventy degrees, that is properly aired several times a day, the Chinese primrose and the Cyclamen will bloom for several successive weeks. The leaves of the primrose seem to resent wetting when the plant is grown indoors. If in the house there is a window that need not be disturbed it can be made a thing of beauty by growing two or three plants of climbing asparagus in it and training them on strings; the foliage is extremely delicate, and well-grown plants can often spare some sprays for table decoration. For this same purpose nothing is more useful than ferns, and these grow best in the coolest, leastlighted rooms, from which they can be brought for special decoration when required. The finer varieties will not endure heat, but any one can transplant and grow the "shield" fern, native and wild in almost all the States, and the leaf, when mature, contains so much silex that it will endure the air of almost any living room. For many reasons the plants commercially known as "Holland bulbs" are most desirable for indoor culture by amateurs. They are cheaper than any other plants, many of them are extremely fragrant, some are entirely free of the insect enemies, and most of them are so easy of culture that only lack of water can bring failure. Their botanical structure is so simple and at the same time so advanced that while the bulb is still dry it contains the flower-bud, and so susceptible is this to moisture and warmth that many hastily packed bulbs have bloomed in their cases in the depths of a steamship's hull while en route from Holland to this country. Like most other plants, they detest the hot, dry rooms and stale air in which some human beings exist, but unless killed by thirst they will in their proper time bloom anywhere, whether in darkness or daylight, in heat or in any cold that is not below freezing. Extreme heat will cause their stems to droop, their flowers to fade rapidly and their leaves to elongate and bend, but there will be no diminution in the number of flowers nor in the volume of perfume. Holland bulbs, which are imported in early autumn and remain fit for use until New Year's Day-perhaps longer, may be purchased and planted by any amateur, and cared for with little or no trouble until they are ready to bloom. In appearance they greatly resemble onions of different sizes. They will grow in any soil, or even in water, yet will repay special treatment according to suggestions given on following pages. The leader of this class of bulbous plants is the hyacinth, the florets of which may be had in many shades of any color but green. In most varieties the bulb sends up a single stem which has from twenty-five to fifty florets. In some varieties, and especially the Roman, the bulb sends up several stalks, each displaying a few small florets, of high perfume. The single varieties are preferable for house culture; double florets seem to require cooler, moister air. Prices of hyacinths vary according to size of the bulbs and comparative rarity of varieties, but good standard kinds and of average size may be had at ten cents each or a dollar per dozen; unnamed bulbs sell by the dozen at five cents each, and professional florists usually content themselves with hyacinth bulbs costing not more than two cents each by the hundred. Next in value to the hyacinth, for home culture, comes the narcissus family. Here the colors are restricted to yellow and white, except that one variety has a tiny circlet of red on the edge of its cup. The narcissi are divided into classes according to shapes of flower and other peculiarities of bloom; any prominent florist's autumn catalogue will contain illustrations showing differences of size and form. The flowers differ, also, in quantity and quality of perfume; some are highly scented, while others are entirely devoid of odor. After hyacinths and narcissi the amateur should pay some attention to the tulip, selecting double varieties, unless he has a cool room in which to forward his plants. Tulips are unequaled for brilliancy of color and perfection of form, but the latter, in the single varieties, is quickly marred by heat and by dry air. Insect pests seldom or never appear on the hyacinth and narcissus, but they delight in the tulip, although very rich soil usually prevents their appearance. Were it not for its attractiveness to insects, the crocus would also be a valuable bulb for indoor use. Freesias, scillas and snowdrops are also likely to become covered with insects when grown indoors. All bulb dealers advertise the ranunculus and anemone, but not one amateur in a hundred ever succeeded in coaxing flowers from these roots indoors. Aside from Holland bulbs there are two bulbous plants-the "Bermuda" lily and the Lilium longiflorum—that should be planted in autumn and that usually do well indoors. Bulbous plants will root and bloom in any kind of soil except stiff clay; most of them will do fairly well even in water, but to get the best results the soil should be both light and rich without rankness. If potting soil can be purchased from a florist it will answer the purpose, particularly if the florist pays special attention to bulbs. Amateurs who must prepare soil for themselves may try any of several ways, according to the materials available; the best plan is to mix equal parts, by weight, of leaf-mould or genuine muck, sand and thoroughly rotted manure; if the latter is at all "fresh" it should not be used at all, for bulbs are ruined by any stimulation that is not gentle. If leaf-mould or muck cannot be had, use the best garden soil obtainable; well-rotted turf is so desirable, instead, that many amateurs begin a year in advance to prepare it, but it can seldom be had to order. If sand cannot be got use sifted coal ashes to lighten the soil. The soil should be sifted or otherwise handled so as make sure that all worms are excluded. Bulbs will do fairly well in boxes, tin cans or any kind of crockery, but they flourish best when planted in ordinary flower-pots. These should be soaked before they are used; if they are old, they should be scrubbed, inside and outside, to clear the pores, for no plant does well in a dirty pot. For one ordinary hyacinth or large narcissus bulb the pot should be not less than four inches in diameter at the top; five inches is a better size. In potting a hyacinth fill the pot with earth, scoop a hole in the center and bury only the bottom half of the bulb; this is to prevent the bulb opening and sending up several small flower stalks instead of one large one. A narcissus bulb may be entirely covered, or a portion of the blossom-end may remain exposed if the pot is small. In a five-inch pot three or four tulips may be planted, close to the side of the pot, with their tops entirely covered. Any lily bulb larger than a hyacinth should have a six-inch pot and be covered to the depth of an inch. After planting, water thoroughly and set the pots in a dark corner of a cellar, or in a dark room or closet, otherwise the tops will start before the roots and the bloom will be small. For more than a month they will require no attention but a thorough watering about once a week. More satisfactory than potting, to persons who can buy bulbs freely, is to use seed-pans. One of these, made of ordinary pot-clay, but far wider in proportion to depth, and ten inches in diameter, will accommodate half a dozen hyacinths or large narcissi, or a dozen tulips; the cost will be less than that of six pots and the effect much finer. All bulbs planted in a seed-pan should be of the same variety, so that all may be of equal height as well as of the same period of blooming. In ordering hyacinths the novice will do well to leave the selection of varieties to the dealers, specifying that they are for indoor planting. Roman hyacinths should be named if wanted, for they are a class by themselves; they are cheaper as well as smaller than the Dutch hyacinths proper; they have the special merit of blooming several weeks earlier than other varieties, and of producing flower-clusters small enough to wear. Three of them may be planted in a five-inch pot. They are sold by color, not by special name; they may be had in yellow, pink, rose, light-blue, and white, the latter being the earliest. Hyacinths grow freely and bloom well in water alone. Glasses made for the purpose should be used; they are in several shapes, the best and most effective in appearance being of what is known in the trade as "Tye's shape-a low vase with a broad bottom. The glass should be so nearly filled with clear water that the bottom of the bulb nearly touches the surface. The glass should be set in a dark, cool place until the roots reach the bottom; then it may be brought to the light. A hyacinth grown in water will be useless for subsequent planting; potted hyacinths may be used a second year, but their bloom will be smaller. Hyacinths in pots should remain in a dark, cool place until the leaves are well started and the flower-head has been forced so high that the stem may be seen. When brought into rooms they should be kept from the sun and strong light for several days. At first their leaves and buds will appear pallid-almost white-but they rapidly regain their proper color. They should also be placed in saucers or trays, which should never be without water while the plants are in bloom. They do not require sunshine. The narcissi should receive the same general treat | | ment as hyacinths, except that they may be brought to the light earlier, for as their flowers appear at tips of long stalks they cannot easily bloom before getting above their sheathing of leaves, as hyacinths will do if too soon exposed. Not all the narcissi do well indoors. One of the best varieties for beginners is also one of the cheapest and is of rich fragrance; it is called the campernel, and bears two or more large single yellow flowers on each stalk. By the dozen it costs about two cents per bulb, or one cent by the hundred. Three may be planted in a fiveinch pot or a dozen in a ten-inch pan, and each will send up several flower-stalks in succession. The campernel is of the jonquil class, which contains also the single and double jonquil, both yielding small flowers of exquisite perfume; half a dozen of these may be planted in a single pot. Of "show" varieties, more remarkable for beauty and size than for fragrance, the finest are Emperor, Empress, Golden Spur, Horsfieldii, and Sir Watkin; they cost from ten to twenty cents each, and will delight any one who plants them. They should have about as much space as hyacinths. Cheap and satisfactory double varieties are Orange Phoenix (white), and Von Sion (yellow); either costs about five cents per bulb. All amateurs should try the water narciss ́s com-. monly called the "Chinese Lily"; the bulbs, which are very large and cost about ten cents each, should be set on stones in a pan or dish of water, singly or several together, with bits of stone about them to keep them from moving. Each bulb throws up several stalks of fragrant flowers, and the foliage remains luxuriant and ornamental long after the flowers have faded. Still another section of narcissi-the polyanthus, or many-flowered-is cheap and interesting. All the narcissi-except the so-called Chinese Lily, which does not bloom a second time-improve with age, the bulbs slowly increasing by division. The flower-stalks of bulbs should be cut away as soon as the bloom fades and water should be given more sparingly; the plants will be ornamental, through their foliage alone, for several weeks, but they can at once be removed to cellar or elsewhere if their places are needed for blooming plants. When the leaves begin to turn yellow water should be almost entirely withheld. In the late spring the leaves and roots will have died; the bulbs should then be taken from the earth and kept in as dry and cool a place as possible until the following autumn. The blooming season of even a small collection of bulbs may be made to extend over almost half a year by successive plantings. If some bulbs are purchased and planted as soon as they reach the market (in late August or early September) some of the white Roman hyacinths may be hurried into bloom at Thanksgiving by bringing them to the light three weeks after planting. Others will rapidly succeed these, after which will bloom the Chinese lilies, followed by other narcissi, which will be succeeded by early varieties of the Dutch hyacinths. Successive plantings in mid-October, at Thanksgiving and at Christmas will provide for succession. From a dozen hyacinths or narcissi of various kinds, planted at one time, not more than three plants are likely to endeavor to bloom in a single week. Of all the bulbous plants named, tulips are of slowest growth. All house-plants mentioned above, whether bulbous or otherwise (except the primrose), need and deserve an occasional washing to remove dust from their leaves and stems. The best method is to place pot and plant in a bathtub or washtub and sprinkle thoroughly; any method of sprinkling will answer, although the work can be done easiest and best with the rubber bulb sprinkler that is made for the purpose. A sharp watch should be kept for insects, although not many of the plants above-named are subject to them. The most common one is the plant-louse, a light-green bug a little larger than the head of a pin; it appears first on the youngest, tenderest shoots of softwooded plants and vines and multiplies with great rapidity. It may be banished by frequent use of a strong decoction of tobacco-say an ounce to a quart of hot water; this water, when cold, can be applied to the affected parts of small plants with a camel's-hair brush. Should the plant be large and badly affected, it should be sprinkled with tobacco solution or dipped in it. THE SEVEN WONDERS OF THE WORLD. (According to the Ancients.) The Pyramids of Egypt. The Hanging Gardens of Babylon. The Mausoleum at Halicarnassus. The Colossus at Rhodes. The Pharos (lighthouse) at Alexandria. UY one of the old-fashioned to begin upon; these may be got at a reasonable price, as many have been discarded for the modern ones. They are called "practicers," or, more familiarly, "bone-shakers." In learning to ride, it is advisable to have a competent teacher, who cannot only show what is wanted, but can also put the beginner in the way of doing it himself; but as many may be unable, from distance or other causes, to avail themselves of this kind of assistance, the following instructions are intended for those who are thus thrown upon their own resources. Of course it is necessary to have recourse to a friendly arm, and there may be many cases in which two friends are desirous to learn the bicycle, and can give mutual help. The old-fashioned bicycle is of this construction, that is, of moderate height and the most solid build, and altogether very different from its latest development, with its enormous driving-wheel and general lightness of make. These machines, with comparatively little difference in the height of the wheel, are best for beginners, as, being low, the getting on and off is easier and safer, and they are in every way adapted for the purpose; and it is only when tolerable command of this kind is acquired, that the modern large-wheeled bicycle may be adventured with fair prospect of success. But even with these some discrimination is necessary. In choosing a machine on which to begin practicing, we strongly advise the learner to select one of the size suitable to his height, as, if it is too small, his knees will knock against the handles, and if too large, his legs will not be long enough fairly to reach the throw of the crank. We know it is not uncommon to begin with a boy's machine, and on an inclined plan; but the benefit of these is very doubtful, unless you are totally without help, and have no one to lend you a helping hand. The best guide in measuring oneself for a bicycle to learn on is, we consider, to stand by its side and see that the saddle is in a line with the hips. The point of the saddle should be about six inches from the upright which supports the handles; for if the saddle is placed too far back, you decrease your power over the driving-wheel, especially in ascending a hill. When you have secured a good velocipede, well suited to your size, you will find it useful to practice wheeling it slowly along while holding the handles. While thus leading it about, of course you will soon perceive the fact that the first desideratum is to keep the machine perfectly upright, which is done by turning the handles to the right or left when there is any inclination to deviate from the perpendicular. If inclining to the right, turn the wheel in the same direction, and vice versa, as it is only the rapidly advancing motion that keeps it upright, on the principle of the boy's hoop, which, the faster it rolls, the better it keeps its perpendicular, and which, when losing its momentum, begins to oscillate, and finally must fall on one side or the other. Now for the FIRST LESSON. Having become accustomed to the motion of the machine, and well studied its mode of traveling, the next thing is to get the assistant to hold it steady while you get astride, and then let him slowly wheel it along. Do not attempt at first to put your feet on the treadles, but lei nem hang down, and simply sit quiet on the saddle, and take hold of the handles, while the assistant moves you slowly along, with one hand on your arm and the other on the end of the spring. It is hardly necessary to say that the best place to learn is a large room or gallery, with smooth-boarded floor or flagstone pavement. Now, directly you are in motion you will feel quite helpless, and experience a sensation of being run away with, and it will seem as if the machine were trying to throw you off; but all you have to do is to keep the front wheel straight with the back wheel by means of the handles, and the assistant will keep you up and wheel you about for a quarter of an hour or so, taking rest at intervals. When you want to turn, move the handle so as to turn the front wheel in the direction required, but avoid turning too quickly, or you will fall off the reverse way. Observe that in keeping your balance, all is done by the hands guiding the front wheel Do not attempt to sway your body, and so preserve your balance, but sit upright, and if you feel yourself falling to the left, turn the wheel to the left; that is to say, guide the machine in the direction in which you are falling, and it will bring you up again; but this must be done the same moment you feel any inclination from the perpendicular. Do not be violent and turn the wheel too much, or you will overdo it, and cause it to fall the other way. Practice guiding the machine in this way until you feel yourself able to be left to yourself for a short distance, and then let the assistant give you a push, and leaving his hold, let you run by yourself for a few yards before you incline to fall. Should you feel that you are losing your balance, stretch out the foot on the side on which you incline, so that you may pitch upon it, and thus arrest your fall. SECOND LESSON. Having pretty well mastered the balancing and keeping the machine straight, you may now take a further step, and venture to place your feet on the treadles, and you will now find the novel movement of the legs up and down liable to distract your attention from the steering or balancing; but after a few turns you will get familiarized with the motion, and find this difficulty disappear; and it will seem within the bounds of possibility that you may some time or other begin to travel without assistance. Of course, in this and the former lesson, some will take to it more quickly than others, and the duration of the lessons must depend on the learner himself, and the amount of mechanical aptitude which he may be gifted with. Some we have known to take six times as much teaching as others. THIRD LESSON. Now, naving in the first lesson ridden with the feet hanging down, and in the second with them on the treadles, in the third lesson you should be able to go along for a short dis tance, working the treadles in the usual way. Of course, when we speak of the first and second lessons, we do not mean that after practicing each of them once you will be able, of necessity, to ride at the third attempt; although we have taught some who seemed to take to it all at once; but that these are the progressive steps in learning to ride, and you must practice each of them until tolerably proficient. When you are sufficiently familiar with the working of the treadles while held by the assistant, it depends entirely on yourself, and the amount of confidence you may possess, to determine the time at which he may let go his hold of you, and you may begin to go alone; but of course for some time it will be advisable for him to walk by your side, to catch you in case of falling. When you have arrived at this stage, you only require practice to make a good rider, and the amount of practice taken is generally a guide to the amount of skill gained To Get On and Off.-Having now learnt to ride the velocipede without assistance, we will now proceed to getting on and off in a respectable manner, in case you have not a step, which all modern machines are now provided with. The proper way is to vault on and off, which is the easiest way of all, when you can do it, but it certainly requires a little courage and skill. At first, it may be, from want of confidence in yourself, you will jump at the machine and knock it over, both you and it coming down. But what is required to be done is, to stand on the left-hand side of the bicycle, and throw your right leg over the saddle. Stand close to the machine, holding the handles firmly; then run a few steps with it to get a sufficient momentum, and then, leaning your body well over the handles, and throwing as much of your weight as you can upon them, with a slight jump throw your right leg over the saddle. This may sound formidable, but it is in reality no more than most equestrians do every time they mount, as the height of the bicycle to be cleared is little more than that of the horse's back when the foot is in the stirrup, only the horse is supposed to stand quiet, and therefore you can jump with a kind of swing. You must be very careful that while running by the side you keep the machine perfectly upright, particularly at the mo ment of jumping. Perhaps at first you will vault on, forgetting to keep the machine quite perpendicular, and as an inevitable consequence you will come to the ground again, either on your own side, or, what is worse, you may go right over it, and fall with it on the top of you on the other side. Of course it is much better to have an assistant with you at your first attempts at vaulting, and it is good practice to let him hold the machine steady while you vault on and off as many times as you can manage. You must not forget to put all the weight you can on the handles, and although at first this seems difficult, it is comparatively easy when the knack is acquired. You will not attempt any vaulting until you can manage the machine pretty well when you are on, up to which time the assistant should help you on and set you straight. |