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HINTS TO HOUSEKEEPERS.

CHOICE OF ARTICLES OF FOOD.

OTHING is more important in the affairs of housekeeping than the choice of wholesome food.

Mackerel must be perfectly fresh. The firmness of the flesh and the clearness of the eyes must be the criterion of fresh mackerel, as they are of all other fish.

Flounders, and all flat white fish, are rigid and firm when fresh; the under side should be of a rich cream color.

Cod is known to be fresh by the rigidity of the muscles (or flesh); the redness of the gills, and clearness of the eyes. Salmon.-The flavor and excellence of this fish depend upon its freshness, and the shortness of time since it was caught.

Herrings can only be eaten when very fresh.

Fresh Water Fish.-The remarks as to firmness and clear, fresh eyes, apply to this variety of fish, of which there are pike, perch, etc.

Lobsters recently caught have always some remains of muscular action in the claws, which may be excited by pressing the eyes with the finger; when this cannot be produced, the lobster must have been too long kept. When boiled, the tail preserves its elasticity if fresh, but loses it as soon as it becomes stale.

Crabs have an agreeable smell when fresh.

Prawns and Shrimps, when fresh, are firm and crisp. Oysters. If fresh, the shell is firmly closed; when the shells of oysters are opened, they are dead and unfit for food. The small-shelled oysters are the finest in flavor. Larger kinds are generally considered only fit for stewing and sauces, though some persons prefer them.

Beef. The grain of ox beef, when good, is loose, the meat red, and the fat inclining to yellow. When meat pressed by the finger rises up quickly, it may be considered as that of an animal which was in its prime; when the dent made by pressure returns slowly, or remains visible, the animal had probably past its prime, and the meat consequently must be of inferior quality.

Veal should be delicately white, though it is often juicy and well flavored when rather dark in color. On examining the loin, if the fat enveloping the kidney be white and firm looking, the meat will probably be prime, and recently killed.

Mutton. The meat should be firm and close in grain, and red in color, the fat white and firm. Mutton is in its prime when the sheep is about five years old, though it is often killed much younger. If too young, the flesh feels tender when pinched, if too old on being pinched it wrinkles up, and so remains. In young mutton, the fat readily separates; in old, it is held together by strings of skin.

Lamb. This meat will not keep long after it is killed. The large vein in the neck is bluish in color when the forequarter is fresh, green when becoming stale. In the hindquarter, if not recently killed, the fat of the kidney will have a slight smell, and the knuckle will have lost its firmness.

Pork. When good, the rind is thin, smooth, and cool to the touch; when changing, from being too long killed, it becomes flaccid and clammy.

Bacon should have a thin rind, and the fat should be firm and tinged with red by the curing; the flesh should be of 2 clear red, without intermixture of yellow, and it should firmly adhere to the bone. To judge the state of a ham, plunge a knife into it to the bone; on drawing it back, if particles of meat adhere to it, or if the smell is disagreeable, the curing has not been effectual, and the ham is not good; it should, in such a state, be immediately cooked.

Venison. When good, the fat is clear, bright, and of con siderable thickness.

Turkeys. In choosing poultry, the age of the bird is the chief point to be attended to. An old turkey has rough and reddish legs; a young one, smooth and black. Fresh killed, the eyes are full and clear, and the feet moist. When it has been kept too long, the parts about the vent begin to wear a greenish, discolored appearance.

Common Domestic Fowls, when young, have the legs and combs smooth; when old, they are rough, and on the breast long hairs are found instead of feathers. Fowls and chickens should be plump on the breast, fat on the back, and white legged.

Geese. The bills and feet are red when old, yellow when young. Fresh killed, the feet are pliable, stiff when too long kept. Geese are called green while they are only two or three months old.

Ducks. Choose them with supple feet and hard, plump breasts. Tame ducks have yellow feet, wild ones red.

Pigeons are very indifferent food when they are too long kept. Suppleness of the feet shows them to be young; the

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Fish. Cod, crabs, flounders, herrings, oysters, perch, pike, sturgeon, porgies.

Meat.-Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry and Game.-Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowl (wild), green geese, partridges, pheasants, pigeons (tame and wild), pullets, rabbits, snipes, turkeys, woodcock.

Vegetables.-Beets, cabbage, carrots, celery, mushrooms, onions, parsnips, potatoes, turnips. Fruit.-Apples, chestnuts, oranges.

March.

Fish.-Eels, crabs, flounders, lobsters, mackerel, oysters, perch, pike, shrimp, smelts, sturgeon, porgies.

Meat.-Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry and Game.-Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, pigeons, rabbits, snipes, turkeys, woodcock. Vegetables.-Beets, carrots, celery, cresses, onions, parsnips, potatoes, turnip tops.

Fruit.-Apples, chestnuts, oranges.

April.

Fish.—Shad, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, oysters, perch, pike, salmon, shrimps, smelts, sturgeon, trout, porgies.

Meat.-Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry and Game.-Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey-poults, woodpigeons.

Vegetables.-Onions, parsnips, spinach, small salad, turnip tops, and rhubarb.

Fruit.—Apples, nuts, oranges, pears.

May.

Fish.-Shad, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, halibut, herring, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, salmon, shrimps, smelts, sturgeon, trout, clams.

Meat.-Beef, grass-lamb, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry and Game.-Chickens, fowls, green geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits.

Vegetables.-Artichokes, green peas, asparagus, kidneybeans, cabbage, carrots, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, rhu barb, salad, spinach, turnips. Fruit.-Apples, pears.

June.

Fish.-Cod, shad, crabs, eels, flounders, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, perch, pike, salmon, clams, smelts, sturgeon, trout cat-fish, black-fish.

Meat.-Beef, grass-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry and Game.-Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits.

Vegetables.-Asparagus, beans, white beet, cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, onions, parsley, peas, potatoes, radishes, salad of all sorts, spinach, turnips.

Fruit.-Apples, apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, pears, strawberries.

July.

Fish.-Cod, crabs, flounders, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, perch, pike, salmon, trout, blue-fish, black-fish, bass, pickerel, cat-fish, eels, clams, porgies.

Meat.-Beef, grass-lamb, mutton, veal, buck-venison. Poultry and Game.-Chickens, ducks, fowls, green geese, leverets, pigeons, plovers, rabbits, wild-pigeons.

Vegetables.-Artichokes, asparagus, balm, beans, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cucumbers, herbs of all sorts, lettuce, mint, mushrooms, peas, potatoes, radishes, salads of all sorts, spinach, turnips, tomatoes, Carolina potatoes.

For Drying. Mushrooms.

For Pickling.-French beans, red cabbage, cauliflowers, garlic, gherkins, onions.

Fruit.-Apples, apricots, cherries, currants, damsons, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, oranges, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries.

August.

Fish.-Cod, eels, crabs, flounders, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, perch, pike, salmon, blue-fish, black-fish, weak-fish, sheep's head, trout, porgies, clams.

Meat.—Beef, grass-lamb, mutton, veal, buck-venison. Poultry and Game.-Chickens, ducks, fowls, green geese pigeons, plovers, rabbits, wild ducks, wild pigeons, red-bird, curlew.

Vegetables.-Artichokes, beans, white-beet, carrots, cauliflowers, cucumbers, pot-herbs of all sorts, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, salad of all sorts, spinach, turnips, tomatoes.

For Drying.-Basil, sage, thyme.

For Pickling.-Red cabbage, tomatoes, walnuts. Fruit.-Apples (summer pippin), cherries, currants, damsons, gooseberries, grapes, melons, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums (greengages), raspberries.

September.

Fish.-Cockles, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, lobsters, oysters, perch, pike, shrimps, porgies, black-fish, weak-fish.

Meat.-Beef, mutton, pork, veal, buck-venison. Poultry and Game.-Chickens, ducks, fowls, green geese, partridges, pigeons, plovers, rabbits, turkeys, wild ducks, wild pigeons, wild rabbits, quail.

Vegetables.-Artichokes, beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cucumbers, herbs of all sorts, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, salad of all sorts, turnips, tomatoes, Carolina potatoes.

Fruit.-Apples, damsons, grapes, hazel-nuts, medlars, peaches, pears, pine-apples, plums, quinces, strawberries, walnuts.

October.

Fish.-Cockles, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, halibut, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, salmon-trout, shrimps, smelts, porgies.

Meat.-Beef, mutton, pork, veal, doe-venison.

Poultry and Game.-Chickens, ducks, fowls, green geese, larks, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, red-bird, black-bird, robins, snipes, turkey, wild ducks, wild pigeons, wild rabbits, woodcock, teal.

Vegetables. Artichokes, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, herbs of all sorts, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, salad, spinach (winter), tomatoes, turnips, Carolina potatoes.

Fruit.-Almonds, apples, black and white damsons, hazelnuts, grapes, peaches, pears, quinces, walnuts.

November.

Fish.-Cockles, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, halibut, lob. sters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, salmon, shrimps, smelts, porgies, flounders.

Meat.-Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doe-venison. Poultry and Game.-Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, larks, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, rabbits, snipes, turkey, wild ducks, woodcock, robins.

Vegetables.-Beets, cabbages, carrots, celery, herbs of all sorts, lettuce, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, spinach, tomatoes, turnips.

Fruit.-Almonds, apples, chestnuts, hazel nuts, grapes,

bears.

December.

Fish.-Cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, halibut, lobsters, oysters, perch, pike, salmon, shrimps, smelts, sturgeon.

Meat.-Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doe-venison. Poultry and Game.-Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, guinea-fowl, hares, larks, partridges, pea-fowl, pheasts, pigeons, rabbits, snipes, turkey, wild ducks, woodcock. Vegetables.-Beets, cabbages, carrots, celery, herbs of all sorts, lettuce, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, spinach, turnips.

Fruit.-Apples, chestnuts, hazel-nuts.

NAMES AND SITUATIONS OF THE JOINTS. The method of cutting up the carcases varies. That which we describe below is the most general.

Beef-Fore Quarter.-Fore rib (five ribs); middle rib (four ribs); chuck (three ribs). Shoulder piece (top of fore leg); brisket (lower or belly part of the ribs); clod (fore shoulder blade); neck; shin (below the shoulder); cheek.

Hind Quarter.-Sirloin; rump; aitchbone-these are the three divisions of the upper part of the quarter; buttock and mouse-buttock, which divide the thigh; veiny piece, joining buttock; thick flank and thin flank (belly pieces) and leg. The sirloin and rump of both sides form a baron. Beef is in season all the year; best in the winter.

Mutton.-Shoulder; breast (the belly); over which are the loin (chump, or tail end). Loin (best end); and neck (best end); neck (scrag end). A chine is two necks; a saddle, two loins; then there are the leg and head. Mutton is the best in winter, spring, and autumn.

Lamb is cut into fore quarter and hind quarter; a saddle, or loin; neck, breast, leg, and shoulder. Grass-lamb is in season from June to August.

Pork is cut into leg, hand, or shoulder; hind-loin; fore loin; belly part; spare rib (or neck); and head. Pork is in season nearly all the year.

Veal is cut into neck (scrag end); neck (best end); loin (best end); loin (chump, or tail end); fillet (upper part of the hind leg); hind knuckle (which joins the fillet knuckle of fore leg; blade (bone of shoulder); breast (best end); breast (brisket end); and hand. Veal is always in season, but dear

in the winter and spring.

Venison is cut into haunch (or back); neck, shoulder, and breast. Doe-venison is best in January, October, November, and December, and buck-venison in June, July, August, and September.

Ox-tail is much esteemed for purposes of soup; so also is the CHEEK. The TONGUE is highly esteemed.

Calves' Heads are very useful for various dishes; so also their KNUCKLES, FEET, HEART, etc.

Cooking.-Ten pounds of beef require from two hours to two hours and a half roasting, eighteen inches from a good fire.

Six pounds require one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half, fourteen inches from a good clear fire.

Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled, tied round with paper, will require two hours and a half, eighteen inches from the fire; baste once only.

The first three ribs of fifteen or twenty pounds, will take three hours or three and a half; the fourth and fifth ribs will take as long, managed in the same way as the sirloin. Paper the fat and the thin part, or it will be done too much, before the thick part is done enough.

When beef is very fat, it does not require basting; if very lean, tie it up in greasy paper, and baste frequently and well. Common cooks are generally fond of too fierce a fire, and of putting things too near to it.

Slow roasting is as advantageous to the tenderness and fla vor of meat as slow boiling.

The warmer the weather, and the staler killed the meat is, the less time it will require to roast it.

Meat that is very fat requires more time than other meat. In the hands of an expert cook, "alimentary substances are made almost entirely to change their nature, their form, con. sistence, odor, savor, color, chemical composition, etc.; everything is so modified, that it is often impossible for the most exquisite sense of taste to recognize the substance which makes up the basis of certain dishes. The greatest utility of the kitchen consists in making the food agreeable to the senses, and rendering it easy of digestion."

Boiling extracts a portion of the juice of meat, which mixes with the water, and also dissolves some of its solids; the more fusible parts of the fat melt out, combine with the water, and form soup or broth. The meat loses its red color, becomes more savory in taste and smell, and more firm and digestible. If the process is continued too long, the meat becomes indigestible, less succulent, and tough.

To boil meat to perfection, it should be done slowly, in plenty of water, replaced by other hot water, as evaporation takes place; for, if boiled too quickly, the outside becomes tough; and not allowing the ready transmission of heat, the inferior remains rare.

The loss by boiling varies from 6 to 16 per cent. The average loss on boiling butcher's meat, pork, hams, and bacon, is 12; and on domestic poultry, is 143.

The loss per cent. on boiling salt beef is 15; on legs of mut ton, 10; hams, 12; salt pork, 13; knuckles of veal, 8; bacon, 64; turkeys, 16; chickens, 131.

The established rule as regards time, is to allow a quarter of an hour for each pound of meat if the boiling is rapid, and twenty minutes if slow. There are exceptions to this; for instance, ham and pork, which require from twenty to twentyfive minutes per pound, and bacon nearly half an hour. For solid joints allow fifteen minutes for every pound, and from ten to twenty minutes over; though, of course, the length of time will depend much on the strength of the fire, regularity in the boiling and size of the joint. The following table will be useful as an average of the time required to boil the various

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The loss by roasting varies, according to Professor van, from 14 3-5ths to nearly double that rate, per cent. average loss on roasting butcher's meat is 22 per cent.; and on domestic poultry is 201.

The loss per cent. on roasting beef, viz., on sirloins and ribs together, is 19 1-6th; on mutton, viz., legs and shoulders together, 24 4-5ths; on fore quarters of lamb, 22; on ducks, 27 1-5th; on turkeys, 201; on geese, 19; on chickens, 14 3-5ths.

Broiling requires a brisk, rapid heat, which, by producing a greater degree of change in the affinities of the raw meat than roasting, generates a higher flavor, so that broiled meat is more savory than roast, The surface becoming charred, a dark-colored crust is formed, which retards the evaporation of the juices; and therefore, if properly done, broiled may be as tender and juicy as roasted meat.

Baking does not admit of the evaporation of the vapors se rapidly as by the processes of broiling and roasting; the fat is also retained more, and becomes converted by the agency of the heat into an empyreumatic oil, so as to render the meat less fitted for delicate stomachs, and more difficult to digest. The meat is, in fact, partly boiled in its own confined water, and partly roasted by the dry hot air of the oven.

The loss by baking has not been estimated; and, as the time required to cook many articles must vary with their size, nature, etc., we have considered it better to leave that until giving the receipts for them.

Frying is of all methods the most objectionable, from the foods being less digestible when thus prepared, as the fat employed undergoes chemical changes. Olive oil in this respect is preferable to lard or butter.

Roast Beef.-The tender-loin and first and second cuts off the rack are the best roasting pieces-the third and fourth cuts are good. When the meat is put to the fire, a little salt should be sprinkled on it, and the bony side turned toward the fire first. When the bones get well heated through, turn the meat, and keep a brisk fire-baste it frequently while roasting. There should be a little water put into the dripping pan when the meat is put down to roast. If it is a thick piece, allow fifteen minutes to each pound to roast it in-if thin, less time will be required.

Beef Steak.-The tender-loin is the best piece for broiling a steak from the round or shoulder clod is good and comes cheaper. If the beef is not very tender, it should be laid on a board and pounded, before broiling or frying it. Wash it in cold water, then lay it on a gridiron, place it on a hot bed of coals, and broil it as quick as possible without burning it. If broiled slow, it will not be good. It takes from fifteen to twenty minutes to broil a steak. For seven or eight pounds of beef, cut up about a quarter of a pound of butter. Heat the platter very hot that the steak is to be put on, lay the butter on it, take up the steak, salt and pepper it on both sides. Beef steak to be good, should be eaten as soon as cooked. A few slices of salt pork broiled with the steak makes a rich gravy with a very little butter. There should always be a trough to catch the juices of the meat when broiled. The same pieces that are good broiled are good for frying. Fry a few slices of salt pork brown, then take them up and put in the beef. When brown on both sides, take it up, take the pan off from the fire, to let the fat cool; when cool, turn in half a teacup of water, mix a couple of teaspoonfuls of flour with a little water, stir it into the fat, put the pan back on the fire, stir it till it boils up, then turn it over the beef.

Alamode Beef.-The round of beef is the best piece to alamode the shoulder clod is good, and comes lower; it is also good stewed, without any spices. For five pounds of

beef, soak about a pound of bread in cold water till soft, then drain off the water, mash the bread fine, put in a piece of butter, of the size of a hen's egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, the same quantity of ground cloves, allspice, and pepper, half a nutmeg, a couple of eggs, and a tablespoonful of flour-mix the whole well together; then cut gashes in the beef, and fill them with about half of the dressing, put the meat in a bakepan, with lukewarm water enough to cover it; set it where it will stew gently for a couple of hours; cover it with a heated bake-pan lid. When it has stewed a couple of hours, turn the reserved dressing on top of the meat, heat the bake-pan lid hot enough to brown the dressing, stew it an hour and a half longer. After the meat is taken up, if the gravy is not thick enough, mix a teaspoonful or two of flour with a little water, and stir it into the gravy; put in a little butter, a wineglass of wine, and turn it over the meat.

Beef Liver.-Liver is very good fried, but the best way to cook it, is to broil it ten minutes with four or five slices of salt pork. Then take it out, cut it into small strips together with the pork, put it in a stew-pan, with a little water, butter and pepper. Stew it four or five minutes.

To Corn Beef.-To every gallon of cold water, put a quart of rock salt, an ounce of saltpetre, quarter of a pound of brown sugar (some people use molasses, but it is not as good); no boiling is necessary. Put the beef in the brine. As long as any salt remains at the bottom of the cask it is strong enough. Whenever any scum rises, the brine should be scalded, skimmed, and more sugar, salt, and saltpetre added. When a piece of beef is put in the brine, rub a little salt over it. If the weather is hot, cut a gash to the bone of the meat, and fill it with salt. Put a heavy weight on the beef in order to keep it under the brine. In very hot weather, it is difficult to corn beef in cold brine before it spoils. On this account it is good to corn it in the pot when boiled. It is done in the following manner: to six or eight pounds of beef, put a teacup of salt; sprinkle flour on the side that is to go up on the table, and put it down in the pot, turn the water into the pot after the beef is put in, boil it a couple of hours, then turn in more cold water, and boil it an hour and a half longer.

Mutton. The saddle is the best part to roast-the shoulder and leg are good roasted; but the best mode to cook the latter is to boil it with a piece of salt pork. A little rice boiled with it, improves the look of it. Mutton for roasting should have a little butter rubbed on it, and a little salt and pepper sprinkled on it-some people like cloves and allspice. Put a small piece of butter in the dripping-pan, and baste it frequently. The bony side should be turned towards the fire first, and roasted. For boiling or roasting mutton, allow a quarter of an hour to each pound of meat. The leg is good cut in gashes, and filled with a dressing, and baked. The dressing is made of soaked bread, a little butter, salt, and pepper, and a couple of eggs. A pint of water with a little butter should be put in the pan. The leg is also good, cut into slices and broiled. It is good corned a few days, and then boiled. The rack is good for broiling-it should be divided, each bone by itself, broiled quick, and buttered, salted and peppered. The breast of mutton is nice baked. The joints of the brisket should be separated, the sharp ends

of the ribs sawed off, the outside rubbed over with a little piece of butter—salt it, and put it in a bake-pan, with a pint of water. When done, take it up, and thicken the gravy with a little flour and water, and put in a small piece of butter. A tablespoonful of catsup, cloves and allspice, improve it, but are not essential. The neck of mutton makes a good soup. Parsley or celery-heads are a pretty garnish for mutton.

Veal. The loin of veal is the best piece for roasting. The breast and rack are good roasted. The breast also is good made into a pot-pie, and the rack cut into small pieces and broiled. The leg is nice for frying, and when several slices have been cut off for cutlets, the remainder is nice boiled with a small piece of salt pork. Veal for roasting should be salted, peppered, and a little butter rubbed on it, and basted frequently. Put a little water in the dripping-pan, and unless the meat is quite fat, a little butter should be put in. The fillet is good baked, the bone should be cut out, and the place filled with a dressing, made of bread soaked soft in cold water, a little salt, pepper, a couple of eggs, and a tablespoonful of melted butter put in-then sew it up, put it in your bake-pan, with about a pint of water, cover the top of the meat with some of the dressing. When baked sufficiently, take it up. thicken the gravy with a little flour and water well mixed, put in a small piece of butter and a little wine and catsup, if you like the gravy rich.

Veal Cutlets.-Fry three or four slices of pork until brown-take them up, then put in slices of veal, about an inch thick, cut from the leg. When brown on both sides, take them up; stir half a pint of water into the gravy, then mix two or three teaspoonfuls of flour with a little water, and stir it in; soak a couple of slices of toasted bread in the gravy, lay them on the bottom of the platter, place the meat and pork over it, then turn on the gravy. A very nice way to cook the cutlets, is to make a batter with half a pint of milk, an egg beaten to a froth, and flour enough to render it thick. When the veal is fried brown, dip it into the batter, then put it back into the fat, and fry it until brown again. If you have any batter left, it is nice dropped by the large spoonful into the fat, and fried till brown, then laid over the veal. Thicken the gravy and turn it over the whole. It takes about an hour to cook this dish. If the meat is tough, it will be better to stew it half an hour before frying it.

Calf's Head.-Boil the head two hours, together with the lights and feet. Put in the liver when it has boiled an hour and twenty minutes. Before the head is done, tie the brains in a bag, and boil them with it; when the brains are done, take them up, season them with salt, pepper, butter, and sweet herbs, or spices if you like-use this as a dressing for the head. Some people prefer part of the liver and feet for dressing; they are prepared like the brains. The liquor that the calf's head is boiled in, makes a good soup, seasoned in a plain way like any other veal soup, or seasoned turtle fashion. The liquor should stand until the next day after the head is boiled, in order to have the fat rise, and skimmed off. If you wish to have your calf's head look brown, take it up when tender, rub a little butter over it, sprinkle on salt, pepper, and allspice-sprinkle flour over it, and put before the fire, with a Dutch oven over it, or in a brick oven where it will brown

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