gold-fields on the west coast, should the flocks of cattle then being forwarded overland from Canterbury for their support, fall in with the Toot or Tua-Tutu on their route.

We are indebted to Dr W. Lauder Lindsay, of Perth, for the following particulars regarding the Toot-poison:-The Toot-poison belongs to the class of Narcotico-irritants. Its action on man includes the following symptoms: Coma, with or without delirium; sometimes great muscular excitement or convulsions; the details differing in different individuals; during convalescence loss of memory, with or without vertigo. In cattle and sheep, they include vertigo, stupor, delirium, and convulsions; curious staggerings and gyrations; frantic kicking, and racing or coursing; tremors. The poisonous portions of the plant are, to man, generally the seed which is contained in a beautiful, dark purple luscious berry, resembling the blackberry, which clusters closely in rich pendant racemesand which is most tempting to children. To cattle and sheep, in almost all cases, it is the young shoot which is tender and succulent, resembling in appearance and taste the similar state of Asparagus. The current remedies for Toot-poisoning among the settlers are, in regard to cattle and sheep, mainly bleeding, by slashing the ears and tails. Belladonna has been variously tried, and favourably reported on; by others, stimulants are regarded as specifics (carbonate of ammonia, brandy, or a mixture of gin and turpentine, locally known as "Drench"). Whatever be the nature of the remedy, there is no difference of opinion as to the necessity for the promptest treatment; since, at a certain stage of the action of the poison, all remedies appear equally inefficacious. In man—the nature of the remedy is still more varied, though emetics and stimulants seem the most rational of those usually had recourse to. While certain animals seem to be themselves exempt from, or insusceptible to, the action of the poison they may, by feeding upon certain species, or certain parts of certain species, of Coriaria, and assimilating thereby or secreting the contained

poison in their tissues, communicate poisonous effects, or become poisons, to man or the lower animals, to which they (the animals first mentioned) have become articles of diet. Every one, therefore, ought to be more than careful about the subject of our engraving, when they become residents in New Zealand territory.

LILIUM AVENACEUM.

Lilies are most attractive flowers. The

species and varieties that we have now in
Some of
cultivation are very numerous.
them have been lost in the rage for window
bedding-out, and the modern fashion of
having certain new plants and flowers, to the
exclusion of many gems of first excellence.
No one can grow the Martagon Lilies with-
out being fully aware of their decorative
effects; and it must be an object to secure
as many of those that come by approach to
that wonderfully effective flower as is possible.
The one in question, fig. 1, is a miniature
form of the Martagon section, but the colour
of the flower is tempting, and we feel all the
more anxious to secure a variety that is
somewhat difficult to keep, with the many;
but, under wise cultivation, is easily enough
grown by, we might say, the few. All Lilies
should not be overcrowded, else they will be
pressed out of position by other miscellaneous
plants. That is a reason why they should be
almost grouped by themselves, and treated for
themselves. Otherwise, they are apt to be
forgotten, and deterioration of growth begins,
size of bulb is consequently affected, and
death with the smaller-growing species is
not at all uncommon. We would counsel,
therefore, either a select bed for a collection
of Lilies, or that more than ordinary vigilance
should be exercised by the party in charge,
especially in the autumn, while the bulbs are
ripening. Cutting down the flower stems pre-
maturely is bad practice. With that caution,
we now proceed to give a diagnosis of the
variety.

This is a Lily of the Martagon section, wholly glabrous; stem bearing a circlet of long lanceolate or elliptic acuminate leaves, eight

conical pouch. It is a native of Moulmein, The plants must not be grown in deep pots;

The Country Gentleman's Magazine

349

Cork in the Garden during November.

From "THE VILLA GARDENER.”

Nov

THE VINERY.

JOVEMBER does its worst to destroy ripe Grapes. Its dark skies and dense fogs are in league to destroy them. As the berries cool down, they act as condensers of vapour, and this hugs the fruit round, as with a wet blanket, to its certain decomposition. It is therefore needful to keep all vineries, where late Grapes are hanging, somewhat warmer than the external air. This keeps the fruit at a temperature superior to the atmosphere, and prevents the settlement of aqueous vapours on to the fruit. Slight fires in the morning, or, indeed, throughout the day, are best for this purpose. With the heat, admit a little air. This will keep the whole atmosphere of the vinery in motion, and preserve the surface of the fruit dry. Sufficient heat will almost certainly be left in the heating apparatus to keep the air 1 deg. or 2 deg. above that outside during the night. Of course, should the sun shine, no fire heat will be needed. But to keep ripe Grapes in safety, a temperature of 40 to 45 deg. is the best. This elevation of temperature is often as useful for leaf and branch as for the fruit. It helps to finish the ripening of the wood. It is impossible to make the wood too hard, or too brown by any process of growth. Perfect, and it may be early maturity, is the secret of certain fertility next year. Those who have no fire heat in their vineries are objects of commiseration during dull wet autumn. Especially are they to be pitied "when cauld November's surly blasts begin to blaw." Then the leaves decay, and the fruit seems to melt away into rottenEvery vinery should possess some means of heating, if it be only a gas stove, to enable its possessor to preserve his ripe fruit. But if not, there is yet another expedient, the fruit may be cut with a portion of wood attached, and stored, till eaten, else. where. Thus the house may be cleared, and the fruit preserved for two or three months. The time of ripening, however, depends a great deal upon the quality of the Grapes. Fleshy juicy Hamburgs will not keep many weeks, while leather-skinned Lady Downes and Alicante will keep as long as you like. Slightly shrivelled Grapes also hang best. We have had Muscats and Muscat Hamburgs slightly shrivelled, bottled for three months. The same Grapes, plump and juicy, will not barely keep so many weeks. But how are they kept? In bottles of water, thus:-Fill a common or soda-water bottle nearly full of rain water, and put a pinch between the finger and thumb (an

ness.

ounce will do a hundred bottles) of animal charcoal. Then lean the bottle a little over, so that when the Vine branch with its bunch is placed in the mouth of the bottle, the bunch will hang clear of it, so as not to press the Grapes against it. Then cut the Grape branches back within a bud or two of the base, strip off one or two of the bottom leaves, place the base of the shoot an inch or two into the water, and the process is finished. Look over the Grapes once a-week, or oftener, to remove any bad berries, and keep them, as near as may be, in a dry, cool, temperature of 40 deg. to 45 deg. Instances have been given where the Grapes have been hard frozen with apparent benefit, but I do not profess to understand -neither do I recommend that they will keep safely without much if any deterioration. This is proved by several seasons' practice. The animal charcoal preserves the water sweet, and the texture of such ripened vine-wood is so close that it does not seem to absorb water in excess. Having got rid of the Grapes, a dry atmosphere is still the best for finishing the ripening of the wood. That is all you have to attend to this month inside. Such Vines as we have been writing about need not be pruned till December, but the outside of the vinery should now receive some attention. Examine the roots, and, if needful, add some fresh turfy loam as top-dressing, and protect them from heavy rains and frost :-the first rots, and the second is apt to rupture healthy roots, and there is no need to expose those of the Vine to an excess of either wet or cold. A covering of straw, boarding, or corrugated iron, will exclude the wet. If either of the two latter are used, it is a good practice to place a layer of litter underneath, and this renders the border frost-proof as well. If the vinery is empty and the wood thoroughly ripened, frost will not injure the tops of properly matured Vines. But villa gardeners should avoid all extremes, and it is not safe either to open or unroof a vinery during very severe frosts. In most places, the vineries are stuffed full of plants to which frosts are fatal, and if not kept over 40 deg., no injury will accrue to the Vines in consequence.

THE ORCHARD HOUSE.

The growths ought to be completed and ripened before now. But, if from late planting or other causes they are not so, hasten maturity by warmth and by drought. Dryness at the roots stops the supplies,