where market will always be ready, and produce will command high prices. It is about 30 miles east of the Des Chutes and has the same general trend, both running north into the Columbia.

Powder river runs through the largest valley in eastern Oregon, and probably equal to any other in the excellent quality of its soil. Emigrants from the east are fast settling up this valley, and the prospect is that it will soon contain a large population. No settlements were made on Powder river previous to the discovery of the gold mines on its head waters but it is stated that a large number of the emigrants of this season have already selected their future homes there, and expect soon to be surrounded by an industrious and thriving community, and enjoying all the amenities of civilization.

Burnt river has its course through a broken region, very fertile, but better adapted to grazing than to agriculture. This stream is southeast from Powder river, and having the same general direction, flows northeast into Snake river.

East of Burnt river the country is exceedingly uninviting. What valleys there are are small and frequently unproductive. The land, impregnated with alkalies, has scarcely any vegetation growing upon it except artemesia, or sage. Grass is scarce and of poor quality, even along the streams. Of his entering the Burnt river country from this inhospitable waste, in his official explorations, General Frémont says he now came into "a mountainous region where the soil is good, and in which the face of the country is covered with nutritive grasses and dense forests; land embracing many varieties of trees peculiar to the country, and on which the timber exhibits a luxuriance of growth unknown to the eastern part of the continent and to Europe. This mountainous region," he continues, "connects itself in the southward and westward with the elevated country belonging to the Cascade or California range, and forms the eastern limit of the fertile and timbered lands along the desert and mountainous region included within the great (Utah) basin."

The Grande Ronde, lying a few leagues north of the Powder River valley, is a beautiful circular valley some 20 or 30 miles in diameter, watered by a stream bearing the same name. Surrounded by high hills or spurs of the Blue mountains, its amphitheatrical form, relieving its smooth, grassy surface, intersected by a bold stream fringed on either margin with small trees, renders it sufficiently charming, to say nothing of the fertility of its soil, which is unsurpassed. Settlements are being made in this valley, also, by the emigrants who have come over the plains, but it will not all be occupied this season.

The following analysis of the soil in Powder River and Grande Ronde valleys is reported by Frémont:

The Klamath basin, it is said, contains a large tract of good agricultural lands, but this may be questionable, as no experiments have yet been made to test its qualities for farming purposes. It is a fine grazing district; even in the midst of December it has been found covered with fresh and luxuriant grass. The Klamath is a magnificent lake, possessing one feature in particular, which lakes do not ordinarily have, viz: it has no water in it. It is a fact, though not generally known, that this lake is nothing more than a broad savannah, sometimes covered in places with a thin sheet of water for a brief period, but never entirely inundated, and capable of being easily drained and reduced to cultivation.

Goose lake, Lake Abert, and some others of considerable size, lie in the northern part of the Utah basin, and are said to be surrounded by large tracts of as fine agricultural land as can be found in the State. That there is some good country around these lakes, is certainly true; but enough is not known of this region to warrant a positive statement that they are very extensive.

Rogue River valley, occupying the extreme southern portion of western Oregon, and extending into California is a broken country, or series of valleys, separated by rolling highlands, covered in some places with dense forests of fir and cedar, and in others thinly timbered with oak, and finely set with grass. It is a very good country for farming, and a superior one for stock raising. Rogue river is not navigable on account of its numerous cascades. Like all the western portion of the State, this valley is well watered by numerous mountain streams, which are sufficiently large to afford motive power for running any amount of machinery. It is thinly populated, and would furnish homes for an indefinite number of immigrants. Jacksonville, its principal town, is a place of some importance as a mining

town.

The Umpqua valley is a beautiful country, drained by the Umpqua river, a stream of some magnitude, and navigable 25 miles from its mouth for ocean vessels. This fertile valley contains 1,000,000 of acres. It is principally rolling or hilly land, the face of the country in many places forcibly reminding one of the rugged districts of Vermont, or the charming stories he read when but a child of the mountain home of the Swiss.

Numerous tributaries of the Umpqua, some of them quite large, flow through the valley, affording excellent water privileges. Perhaps no country is more conveniently provided with good soil, good timber, and good water than the Umpqua valley. Its population is about 4.500, leaving ample room for 20,000 more, allowing 160 acres to each family of four persons. Roseburg and Winchester, the most important places in this valley, are pleasant villages. But the most important agricultural district in western Oregon, and probably in the whole State, is the Willamette valley. It is separated from the Umpqua by the Calapooya mountains, a densely timbered belt, having an altitude of about 5,000 feet, and extending from the Cascade to the Coast range. This valley is drained by the Willamette river, flowing north into the Columbia, and which is navigable to the distance of 130 miles from its mouth, direct measure, with only a single obstruction, the falls at Oregon City.

No person can survey the Willamette valley with its alternations of rich meadow-like prairies, undulations, and beautiful streams, without feeling that he beholds the most delightful spot in America. The agricultural country lying along the banks of the Willamette, includes an area nearly equal to that of the entire State of Connecticut, with a combination of advantages inferior to no other section of the United States. Mr. William H. Knight describes this valley as "possessing a soil of unsurpassed fertility, a mild and genial climate, an abundant growth of timber, large natural pastures, where stock may range unsheltered the year round, an excellent commercial position, superior facilities for transportation, and a rapidly increasing population." This is stating the case in rather too strong a light, and requires some qualification in two of its particulars. The population of the Willamette valley has not increased very rapidly for some years past, owing to causes which will become manifest when the subject of commerce is discussed. And the other modification proposed is, that we sometimes have a "cold snap" of two or three weeks duration in the winter, and the last winter still longer, so that stock may not "range unsheltered the year round" every year, and should not be forced to do so any year, as the continuous rains of the winter months are very injurious to all kinds of domestic animals. Aside from this slight inacenracy, Mr. Knight's description is certainly a very correct one, and the impulse given to the State by the recent discovery of extensive gold fields on the eastern border of the State, cannot fail to make it become speedily true in respect to the increase of population.

This valley is mostly smooth prairie land, large bodies of it undulating, but not hilly, interspersed at intervals, never greater than a few miles, often much less, with streams of various sizes, flowing in across the valley from the mountains on either side. Ranges of low hills, covered with oak timber, are common throughout the valley.

Some of the largest affluents of the Willamette, as the Santiam, Yamhill, and Tualatin, are navigable to considerable distances into the interior; while there is scarcely one which does not afford an ample volume of water to drive any desired amount of machinery for milling and manufacturing purposes.

The Willamette, in common with all this region of the Pacific coast, belongs to the tertiary period. Shells and ligneous petrifactions are numerous, and mammal fossils have been found in various places, indicating a very recent formation.

The soil of western Oregon may be divided into four general classes, viz:

1st. A brown clay loam, of good quality, thinly timbered with oak, producing good grass, and affording fine stock range. It is found chiefly along the spurs of mountains or extended ranges of hills, never in the level prairie.

2d. A dark or black porous soil formed by the admixture of vegetable mold with the clay loam just described. This soil occurs only in the valleys close by or between the mountains, and is unrivalled in productive power. Both of these classes are thirsty, and suffer whenever the summer drought is of very long duration.

3d. A grayish calcareous sandy loam of exceedingly fine quality, covered with a thick turf of grass, and admirally adapted to the cultivation of cereals, especially wheat, oats, and barley. This class embraces five-sixths of the entire valley, including most of the prairie, and much of the oak-timbered land. It is little affected by drought, and though not naturally porous, is pulverized with great facility, and is exceedingly mellow.

4th. A strictly alluvial soil, lying along the immediate banks of the river, and composed of sand, vegetable matter, and various decomposed earths, washed by the current from above. Most of this class of soil is overflowed in extraordinary freshets, which, however, never occur in the growing season of the year, and it is unexcelled in fertility.

Many small and very rich valleys lie along the seacoast, and will doubtless yet become valuable. Among them are the Tillamook, situated on a bay of the same name, the Celets, the Yaquina on Yaquina bay and river, the Coquille on Coquille river. The Coquille and Tillamook already contain settlements of some magnitude.

HARBORS.-There are already opened four ports of entry in this State. The most important harbor is that of the Columbia river, but it is not the only one likely ever to assume much importance. Umpqua river, Port Orford, and the Coquille want nothing but the set

tlement of the rich districts surrounding them to bring them into consideration as commercial points, while vessels have entered several others and found good harbors. Yaquina bay, first brought to notice only a year ago, is said to be an excellent harbor, extending 30 miles into the coast, and easy of access from the heart of the Willamette valley.

HEALTH.-It would seem inviduous to discriminate in favor of any portion of the State of Oregon in respect to its salubrity. Everything that nature could do to render a country perfectly healthful has been done for this State. The mountain air, not less than the mountain water, has a vivifying influence; and the gentle breezes of summer, coming fresh from the sea, are a pleasant and effectual preventive against all the violent diseases ordinarily to be feared in dry and sultry regions.

The climate of Oregon is thought to be unfavorable to the health of persons who are predisposed to pulmonary affections. This is probably true. Notwithstanding this general opinion, however, it is found that fewer persons die here of consumption, in proportion to the population, than in any one of the New England States. And it is certainly beyond question, that in every other respect, there is no other State in the Union worthy to be compared with this for salubrity of climate.

Persons are frequently met with here who had been unable to perform any labor for years before leaving the east, on account of ill health, but have become rugged and strong in this country, and are now regularly engaged in their callings without any physical inconvenience whatever.

MISCELLANEOUS.-Some peculiarities and special adaptation of this State deserve to be more particularly noticed, though space will not allow this to be done at length.

SHEEP.-A very intelligent writer of New England calls Oregon a "mammoth sheep pasture." From what has been exhibited of its soil, climate, and mines, it will be perceived that, with equal propriety and no greater allowance of hyperbole, it might be denominated, also, a mammoth grain field and vegetable garden, and a mammoth gold placer. In a country eminently fitted by nature for so many branches of business as Oregon, discrimination in favor of any one particularly will seem unwarranted, not to say unjust. But certainly if Oregon has a speciality, it is her pre-eminence as a wool-growing country Until very recently, little attention has been paid to the matter of sheep raising, but it is now becoming one of the staple interests of the State. Sheep thrive better here than in any other State. Disease among them is exceedingly rare. They increase here faster than in the east, and the wool is of excellent quality. Only one manufactory of woollen goods is yet in active operation. This is located at Salem. Another is in course of construction in Linn county. The wool clip of the State, in 1861, amounted to 444,000 pounds. That in 1862 (estimated by Mr. L. E. Pratt, of the Willamette Woollen Manufacturing Company) is 344,000 pounds. The difference of amount is owing chiefly to the losses of last winter. The average price of wool, in 1861, was 18 cents a pound; in 1862 it is 20 cents. In respect to the quality of Oregon wool, Mr. Pratt says "there is no inferior wool grown in the State." When the eastern papers quote the price of "Oregon burr wool," they mislead dealers to the prejudice of this State, as there are no burrs in the country; they probably refer to wool grown in Cali fornia, and are imposed upon by dealers of that State.

The Willamette Woollen Manufacturing Company turn out annually 4,000 pairs of blankets, 10,000 yards flannels, 60,000 yards cloths and tweeds, and 4,000 pounds stocking yarn. The cloths are worth, on an average, $1 124 per yard; the blankets, $8.

The expenses of the factory are $56,000.

LUMBER.-Everything has been done which nature could do to make Oregon to the Pacific what Maine is to the Atlantic coast. The best of timber, with unexampled water privileges convenient of access for sea-going vessels, leaves nothing to be desired in this respect but enterprising men who will engage in the business of supplying foreign markets.

FISHERIES.-All along the sea-coast oyster and salmon fisheries might be made highly profitable. The salmon on this coast are not only more abundant, but acknowledged to be of much better quality than those of the Atlantic. Clam and cod fisheries might also be established along the coast.

BEES.-The introduction of bees into Oregon is of very recent date. They prosper well, and produce a large amount of honey. Three years since a hive was worth $150; now it is worth $25.

FRUIT.-Reference has already been made to this, but something a little more specific is required. For apples and pears Oregon is unrivalled. Cherries thrive passably well. Peaches do not generally succeed well, except some very hardy varieties. Plums are in great abundance, and fairly flavored. Quinces and apricots flourish. Grapes are good, especially early varieties. Shrub fruits generally produce exceedingly well. All in all, Oregon is the fruit garden of America, if not of the world.

PULSE of all kinds, like cereals, yield largely.

COMMERCE. From the geographical position and internal resources already shown, it does not require that much should be said of its commerce. Certain circumstances, however, have prevented the development of the strength of the State in this respect, the principal of which is the law under which the land of Oregon is held. At an early period of the settlement of the country, a law was passed by Congress donating 640 acres of land to each man having a wife or rather 320 acres each to the man and wife-and 320 acres each to single

men settling in the Territory. The result of this large donation has been to render the population of the State so sparse that all interests of the body social, all the nerves of civilization and progress have been completely paralyzed. This effect has been visible more in connec tion with the commercial than with any other branch of the social economy of the State, unless it be the educational. It is hoped, however, that these detrimental consequences of the nation's liberality will not longer continue to operate as they have done hitherto; since the largeness of the gift has reduced a great majority of the donees to such a condition as compels them to divide their large tracts of land. When this is done, and not before, Oregon will begin to exhibit that degree of prosperity for which God has given her such ample capabilities.

SCHOOLS.-Oregon, though a new country, is not without its school system, and the people of the State manifest an interest in the subject of education which cannot fail of raising the intelligence and refinement of the country to a high standard as soon as the population is sufficient. Common schools are kept in almost every neighborhood, and grade schools and academies are located in several places. Limits of space forbid more specific statements. CHURCHES. Also the religious statistics of the State will evidence that the immigrant to Oregon need not fear that he is coming to a barbarous or half-civilized land. While the population of the State is only about 60,000, it contains

THE QUESTION.-It may now be asked where and on what terms can land be obtained in Oregon. In the western portion of the State, that is in the Rogue river, Umpqua, and Willamette valleys, the best land is occupied. Farms can be had, however, in these valleys for from $5 to $10 per acre, according to location. There is ample room, and settlement is invited. As good agricultural land as there is in the world can be bought for $8 per acre in any of

these districts.

The land in eastern Oregon is, for the most part, vacant. Homes may be obtained by simply occupying them under the provisions of the homestead law, which will take effect on the 1st day of January, 1863, or by the provisions of the pre-emption law. These lands are not yet surveyed, but no difficulty need be apprehended on this account. The immigrant has nothing to do but to comply with the conditions under which he takes, and his title will be secure to a home for his family which even the rapacity of pitiless creditors cannot wrest from them, and which in return for moderate industry will enable him always to have enough and to spare of the good things of this world.

SECTION III.

MINERAL RESOURCES.

The mineral resources of Oregon, though not so thoroughly prospected as those of adjacent States and Territories, are both extensive and valuable, and will no doubt at some future time form a prominent source of wealth.

Placer mining has been carried on extensively and profitably in the southern counties since 1852, and the mines of John Day and Powder river have yielded several millions of dollars since their discovery in 1860. The annual product of these mines, until within the last two years, has been from $1,500,000 to $2,000,000. In common with the surface deposits of elsewhere, there is a gradual diminution as the placers become exhausted. New discoveries, however, are being continually made.

WILLOW CREEK MINES.-A writer in the Oregonian thus describes the mines in the Willow creek country, a region which has attracted considerable attention of late:

Willow creek is a branch of the Malheur, having its source near the head of John Day's river, and, flowing near 100 miles in an easterly direction, discharges its waters into the Malheur about 15 miles above its junction with Snake river. Although a long stream, Willow creek, owing to the nature of the country through which it flows, much of it being a low mountain or hill country, destitute of timber, receives but few tributaries, and those

few of small size. It is but a small stream in proportion to its length, and its surroundings are gloomy enough and differ but little from those of the Malheur, Owyhee, and other tributaries, on the south side of Snake river, between Farewell Bend and old Fort Hall.

The mines on the tributaries of Willow creek were, I believe, first discovered in 1862, at what is known as Mormon or Humboldt basin, nearly at the same time, by one party from Salt lake and another from the Humboldt mining region in Nevada. This is a small but rich camp, and only lacks plenty of water to render it one of the richest in the upper country. But water it can never have from any outside source, as the basin is higher than the source of any of the streams around it, so that the miners in that locality will have to be content with the scanty supply they now have for three or four months in the year.

But what are known as the Willow creek mines are situated on the south slope of the divide, between the waters of Willow creek and Burnt river, and are now divided into Shasta, Easton, and Willow Creek districts.

Shasta district comprises Shasta creek, Rich creek, Cottonwood creek, Quartz gulch, and many others. Mining has been carried on to some extent on Shasta creek for several years, but it was not until last summer that the district was prospected to any extent, or assumed any importance as a mining camp, or became known as such outside of its immediate vicinity. Since then greatly exaggerated reports have gained circulation in Idaho, Oregon, California, &c.. as to the richness and extent of the mines. In most of the creeks and gulches in Shasta district good prospects have been obtained of rather coarse gold, mostly on the bed rock, which is usually of slate, and generally from 10 to 25 feet below the surface. Shasta, like most of mining districts, contains an embryo town which rejoices in the name of El Dorado City, indifferently supplied with everything but whiskey.

Easton district was organized last summer, and is situate east of and joining Shasta district. It contains a large number of gulches, some of which were worked during last summer, paying very well. Good prospects have been obtained in many others, and if water were plenty it would be a lively camp next season, and continue so for two or three years. In these districts the gold is finer than in Shasta district, and the bed rock (if rock it can be called) is a kind of cement of clay and gravel.

Willow Creek district has recently organized, and comprises the lower part of Mormon Basin creek and a number of gulches east of it, but gold in paying quantities bas only been found in one of them. This district is immediately east of Easton district, and the mines are of the same character. These districts are all on the north side of Willow creek, and are comprised in a space of about 12 miles in length and but little over one in width.

Water is very scarce in all the mines in this vicinity. During the spring the melting snow furnishes a good many gulches with water for two or three months. After that is gone, all the natural water in Shasta district would not amount to more than one sluice head in Easton district, including the water in Mormon basin creek, about two, in Willow Creek district about one. And in speaking of creeks in those districts the reader must bear in mind that all the gulches in which water flows during summer (no matter how small the quantity) is called a creek. Most of the gulches are dry during the fall and winter, and a prospector frequently has to carry dirt one-half mile or more to find water to wash it. Another great inconvenience here is the scarcity of timber, it being on the mountains and in cañons remote from the mines. Lumber for mining and building purposes has to be hauled from 8 to 16 miles, and fire-wood from two to five miles, the former costing about $70 per 1,000 feet, and the latter from $12 to $14 per cord.

The climate here is similar to that of the Grande Ronde and Powder River valleys, the amount of snow falling being much less than in the mining regions of Idaho. Yet the winters are very cold. The past two weeks have been about as cold as any weather I ever saw during several years' residence in the mountains. The snow is now about 10 inches deep in the mines, and perhaps two feet deep on the divide between Willow creek and Burnt river.

There is much good agricultural land along Willow creek, Burnt river, and other streams in this vicinity, upon which abundant supplies could be raised for all this part of Oregon, unless the crickets, which seem to be one of the natural productions of the country, should claim too large a percentage of the crop.

Several different ditches have been talked of for bringing water from Willow creek and Burnt river for mining purposes, which would supply Shasta district and subsequently districts east of that, only one of which has been prosecuted to any extent; that being the ditch of Carter, Packwood & Company, which is one of large extent, and will, when completed, supply a large extent of mining ground with water and give employment to many But unfortunately there is little probability of its completion in time to do any good next summer; so that many owning claims will have to wait another year before they can work them to any extent, as the mines are of such a nature that they can only be worked by the hydraulic or ground sluice, which requires a large amount of water.

men.

There is a large extent of unprospected country in this part of Oregon, in much of which it is probable gold may be found. Were the facilities better for working the mines, this would soon be a populous portion of the State, but much of the country is destitute of timber and water.

There is but little to induce men to come here at present, but if any do come from Oregon