sionally; finally a high tide and strong sea-breeze took her inside, and the good old ship was once more afloat, but with rudder-pintles gone and the ship so strained as to leak badly. At all events the ship was in, and the captain declared he would make the most of the whaling, and made every effort to carry his resolve into effect. This addition to the fleet already arrived, and another ship outside, which "mated" (as it is termed) with the one last arrived, swelled the number to five large vessels with three tenders; in all eight vessels, manning 19 boats. The aggregate of oil taken was 3,500 barrels. The following year 4,700 barrels were taken by four ships and a small shore party, making in two seasons (which may be set down as commencing on the 1st of January, and ending the 10th of April of each year) 8,200 barrels, valued at $123,000; but this limited whaling-ground very soon gave out, and the quantity of oil taken the succeeding seasons has been comparatively small, and the place is no longer regarded as valuable for that purpose.

FACE OF THE COUNTRY.

THE face of the country, immediately in the vicinity of this inland water, on either hand is nearly level and extremely barren. A few stunted mesquit-trees are now and again met with, and a species of rush-grass grows in many places, but so scattered that no evidence of any thing but a sandy plain, or low marsh, is met with about the shores. To the southwest rises a long table-land, to the height of a thousand feet. In going from the lagoon to the foot of this table-land and near to it, we passed through what might almost be termed a forest of the largest species of cactus, some of them reaching the height of 40 to 50 feet. On ascending to the top of the table, there is nothing to be seen inland but a wild mountainous country, as far as the eye can reach, with here and there a green gulch or slope of limited extent. To the northeast there appears to be a belt of comparatively level land that extends across the peninsula to the Gulf of California. To the northwest there is another tract of barren waste, running between high broken land. An old native, who appeared to have a knowledge of the country, stated that along this was a trail leading to the salt deposits of Ojo Lebre, the distance being 70 miles. The coast, from Ballenas Lagoon southward to Cape St. Lazarus, is of the same general character as already described. From Ballenas a low, sterile foreground divides the interior elevations of the peninsula from the sea, as far south as Cape St. Lazarus. A high promontory, latitude 24° 48' 20" N., longitude 112° 16' 28" W., may be seen at sea 50 miles. Then comes the open bay of St. Maria. To the eastward a narrow elevation, nine miles in length, forms the west head of Magdalena Bay. The entrance is three miles wide. Margarita Island is a cluster of rocky peaks and slopes, extending east and west 36 miles; the western end forming the eastern head of the Gulf of Magdalena, as termed by Sir E. Belcher, R. N., who explored the coast in 1839. The eastern point of the island reaches Lee Passage, a shallow outlet to Lee Bay. Then again a moderately elevated coast is met with, increasing in height and abruptness, till it terminates at Cape St. Lucas.

MAGDALENA BAY AND LAGOONS.

MAGDALENA BAY is probably more generally known than any other on the Lower California coast, and by many regarded not only as a spacious and safe harbor that might shelter the navies of the world, but the adjacent country toward the gulf is generally capable of produ cing abundantly, if properly cultivated, and there are other tracts valuable for grazing. The following is based upon information obtained from the most reliable sources and personal observation: The bay is 40 miles long, greatest breadth 15 miles; points making from Margarita Island and the mainland divide this grand sheet of water into two bays, named by the whalemen Weather and Lee Bays; the former being the western and larger of the two, with channel depths from 3 to 18 fathoms. The northwestern part of Weather Bay has a number of narrow channels, two of which form a junction with the mouth of a lagoon, varying in width from a few hundred yards to two miles; that follows the general trend of the coast northward, terminating near port St. Domingo, in latitude 26 N. Its extreme length cannot be less than 20 leagues; a narrow strip of land separates it from the sea, with three passages through it where whales pass in and out, but not navigable even for the smallest-class vessels. Between the bay and the first passage a shoal makes where the tides meet, one current running from the passage opposing that from the bay. This shoal is called the First Divide; a similar one is formed between the first and second passage, called the Second Divide. It is seldom whales go over these shoals; in fact, only one instance ever has been known, and that was in order to escape the deadly harpoon. When viewing these shoals at low water, no one would imagine a vessel of 200 to 300 tons could ever get over into the deep water between the divides; but the whaleman, after contending with the stormy elements and drifting ice of the Arctic Ocean, plies his ship toward the tropics to pass the winter months, seeking his source of wealth in a more temperate clime, with all the determined energy and tact characteristic of his calling. He now finds the object of pursuit not in the fathomless blue water, but huddled together in narrow esteros, the banks on either hand lined with the evergreen mangrove. Frequently the hollow sound of the spouting whale is heard through the trees, and the vapor ascending is seen above them; the vessel is lightened in every possible way, and by dint of

running out anchors, heaving, hauling, grounding, and listing, the ships cross the divides, and the whaling is pursued as though no unusual difficulties had been overcome, or none were to be again contended with to reach the open sea. Whaling-vessels have ascended the lagoon 40 miles from its mouth, and then would not be three miles from the sea-shore. Numerous small lagoons, with a growth of mangrove on the banks, are scattered along the northern side of both Weather and Lee Bays; their entrances are usually shallow, making it frequently dif ficult for boat navigation Lee Ray is about 12 miles in extent, east and west. A body of water makes inland from the north shore, called the "mud-hole," which was formerly the favorite place of resort of whales coming into the bay, and usually there were more ships in this bay during the whaling season than in the Weather one. An outlet to this bay runs along the east end of Margarita Island, but too shoal and intricate for any thing but boat navigation. A lagoon makes from near this passage to the eastward, a few miles in extent; its approaches are difficult, and have only been resorted to occasionally by boats from whalingvessels. Mangrove Island is low, formed of sand and mud, and in many places covered with a thick growth of mangrove-trees. A long, narrow, sandy point making from the east side of Weather Bay, running to the south, forming the north head of the passage between the two bays, has passed under a variety of names, the last being Lagoon Point. The only fresh water to be found about the extensive shores of the whole Magdalena Bay, or Gulf, as it may be termed, is found by digging in the sand, on the shore of Lagoon Point, next to Mangrove Island. The usual process of obtaining water is to take both heads out of a cask, then place it on the beach where the water is found; work the cask down through the loose sand, and removing that on the inside of the casks, till sufficient depth is reached for the water to ooze in, and convenient for bailing. The water, when first brought on board ship, had a white or milky appearance, but after settling for a few days and pumped off, seemed quite clear and drinkable. It is said water may be procured in the same way along the sandy belt that separates St. Maria Bay from Magdalena; but in 1846 search was made to find it, yet without success. Two places are marked on the late charts where fresh water is to be found on the west side of the main passage into the bay. Frequent search has been made along the shore by the officers and men who have sailed with me, but they were never fortunate enough to find even the smallest spring of fresh water; and it is not possible for water, in any great quantity, to be visible there without being easily found. There is said to be quite good water, where vessels have obtained a supply, up the north lagoon, about 25 miles from Cape St. Lazarus.

Appearance of the Country around Magdalena.-On the south, the broken ridges of mountains that separate the bay from the ocean give slight indication of any thing like verdure about them; to the east and west the bay is principally bounded by low, sandy belts, that have been before spoken of. On the north a low country spreads out a considerable distance inland, on some portions of which the tall cactuses seen from the waters impress one with their likeness to scattered trunks of forest-trees; several small lagoons wind a short distance toward the interior or along the shore, their banks generally covered with a thick growth of mangrove; between these lagoons level land is found in some places, producing a thick growth of high grass, others again quite barren. Taking a general view of the surroundings of the bay, there is but little to induce the emigrant to settle there. The resources may be summed up as follows: the bay and lagoons emptying into it abound in many varieties of fish; among the different species of bivalves, oysters are found in abundance that grow to the trunks of the mangrove-trees, where the tide-water comes to them. Clams and muscles, of several large kinds, are found on the flats. Game on the northern shore is plentiful. Vast numbers of whales formerly were found here during the winter months, and a numerous fleet annually came for the purpose of whaling. The bay offered them a safe harbor, and the growth of mangrove in the lagoons gave them a convenient and unlimited supply of wood; but good water to keep at sea is hardly to be found, and it was very seldom that ships watered here. During the time the whaling-fleet lay here, rancheros and others from different places came to trade, bringing cattle, leather, raw hides, soap, cheese, figs, oranges, dates, pearls, shells, and, in some instances, silver articles of native manufacture, which were exchanged for readymade clothing, tobacco, heavy cotton cloths, calicoes, and some few articles of cutlery. There being no officer of the customs in the vicinity, traders from the missions occasionally made their appearance with ready money and purchased. It was not unusual for the inhabitants to come 40 or 50 miles to exchange a few arrobas of fruit for necessary articles of family use. No exports of the scanty products of the country are made from the bay, and where thousands of barrels of oil were taken annually, now only a few hundred are obtained. An approximate calculation gives the quantity of oil taken from 1856 to 1861, 34,425 barrels ; at $15 per barrel, it amounts to $516,375.

The climate, although dry, is pleasant; the bay, as a place of shelter, is spacious and safe, and, to obtain a supply of wood or water, in case of great distress, might be recommended; but of the latter most needful article on shipboard, I would remark that, although a supply can be had as before stated, still it is not so easily to be found as would appear by a glance at the chart, and the shifting sands would soon obliterate all traces of a former watering-party should they have removed the cask used to form the well.

ISLANDS OFF THE WEST COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA.

THE number of islands on the west coast of Lower California are 15, viz. :-Los Coronados (two); St. Martin; St. Geronimo; Guadalupe; Cedros, or Cerros; St. Bonitas (three); Natividad; St. Rouge; Asuncion; Santa Margarita; Elide; Chester's; Maria.

Los Coronados are merely two barren rocks of trap formation, situated in latitude 32° 24′ to 32° 26' N., and six miles from the coast line; several smaller ones are scattered between the two largest; anchorage can be found on the southeast side of the most southern one, which is the largest, and is a mile in extent.

St. Martin: this island lies in latitude 30° 20′ N., and longitude 116° 121′ W. it is of moderate height, and in extent 12 miles long and 2 wide, with anchorage on its south and southeast sides in depth of 12 to 18 fathoms. A little lagoon is found on its southern side (which is quite low), where the seal used to resort in large numbers; it is quite barren, producing nothing approaching to vegetation, except the prickly pear, and shrubs or herbage that grow in a scanty soil, among broken rocks, in a dry climate. St. Geronimo is of moderate elevation; like St. Martin, is long, and about the same in width, and extremely barren; the sea-otter hunters called it Round Island; its position is doubtful, some observations placing it 25 miles farther to the south than others; in fact the whole coast, as laid down on the general coast chart in use at the present time, is much in error, from latitude 28° N. to the northward as far as latitude 32°. St. Geronimo affords a good shelter, on its northeast side, from northwesterly winds, a convenient distance from the shore. The distance from the mainland is three miles. A reef lies between the island and the shore, where the sea breaks heavily in rough weather. There is a good passage, however, between the reef and the island, and when the sea is smooth the thick kelp marks the shoalest places. Rocks awash, or just above water, form a line of breakers from the island a mile or two to the southward. Vessels of ordinary draught may pass between it and the main.

Guadalupe Island is a high elevation of land running nearly north and south, in extent about 15 miles. There is no safe anchorage around it, the shores being bold, and its banks generally high and precipitous. The highest land, which is near the northern extremity, is not less than 3,400 feet above the sea, with a growth of pines or cedros upon it similar to Cedros Island. On landing, the island does not present that parched appearance as those nearer the coast, still vegetation is by no means abundant; fresh water is found here, and goats in large numbers find sustenance among the ravines. Fur-seal and sea-elephant once made the shores a favorite resorting-place. Two small islets lie off its south end; both are quite barren. Some persons of state are said to have been banished here from Mexico. A vessel passed near the island several years since, the crew of which discovered a signal, and the captain landed; to his surprise, he found six or eight Mexicans, men, women and children, who implored him to take them on board, which request he granted, and landed them on the coast; for this act of kindness he received the sincere thanks of the party, it being all that they could give, being in abject poverty, their scanty clothing having been made from goat-skins. The personal effects of the party consisted of the garments they stood in, a few earthen dishes, two or three flint-lock muskets, a rusty cavalry-sword, and a handful of cotton fabrics, much the worse for wear.

Elide Island is in latitude 28° 29' N., longitude 114° 25′ W., a naked rock, one mile in circumference. A few years ago it was covered with guano. From 1857 till the supply was exhausted, about 28,000 tons were shipped from this place. It is close to the coast, and the natives come with their produce to sell to the parties working on the island, and to the ships lying there. The articles of trade were dried figs, oranges, and cattle, which were brought from the missions of St. Borja and Gertrudes, distant 36 miles. The nearest fresh water from Elide is seven miles to the eastward, on the mainland. Chester's Island is a mere islet, lying close to the north side of Point St. Eugenio, and has only been brought to notice on account of a guano deposit that was taken from it several years ago by an American sea-captain, whose name the island has since borne.

Cedros Island bounds the west side of San Sebastian Viscaino Bay, its south point is in latitude 28° 03' N., longitude 115° 25′ W.; it is an island of mountains, nearly its whole extent being a mass of high abrupt peaks, the highest being 2,500 feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen in clear weather a distance of 60 miles. On near approach its sombre and barren appearance is any thing but inviting. Many of the southern slopes present a darkred hue, interspersed with high variegated cliffs that give a little change to the otherwise dull scene. On landing, one is sensible of the extremely dry atmosphere prevailing; there must be, however, occasionally heavy rains producing mountain torrents, which have cut their way through the sand and gravel bottoms that skirt the southern bases, but they are of rare occurrence, those best acquainted, who have been living there or along the coast for nearly the last five years, have never known it to be visited by any other than light showers, and those at long intervals apart. On the northeast side, about three miles from the extreme north end, a low, sandy point makes out; to the south of this there is good anchorage during the prevailing coast-winds. In a gulch near by is a small stream of fresh water, and likewise in several of the valleys leading from the shore to the southward water may be found within a mile or two of the beach. At one of these places it is of excellent quality. The only practical place,

however, for a vessel to obtain a supply, is on the southeast side, where is found a spring running through rushes at the foot of a high peak close to the shore. The casks are filled by placing them within a few feet of the stream, and conducting the water into them by means of a wooden spout, on the side of which were the words, "Whoever uses this will please put it in its proper place, for the benefit of those who may come for water." Anchorage may be had off this spring within two cables of the shore in 20 fathoms water, but a much better place for a large vessel to lie is two miles farther south, off a low shingle beach, where it is not so deep, and the gusts that come down the mountain when the wind is west are not so heavy as at the other anchorage. A vessel can always find shelter from the northwest winds on the south side of the island, the depth varying from 6 to 20 fathoms, and these winds blow with the regularity of a "trade" from May to October, and the only precaution to be kept in mind in choosing an anchorage, is to avoid fixed kelp. From October to May, much of the time the winds are light and the weather delightful. Occasionally a strong norther, or a light southeaster or southwest gale blows the first part of the winter, and strong gales from the northwest again set in about the 1st of May.

PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.

THERE are several species of small trees scattered about the lower portions of the island, as well as clusters of tall pines or cedros on the high ridges of the north end, which may have suggested the name cedros. Among the dwarf species is one called by the whalers tamaarind-tree," from its bearing fruit similar in taste to the real fruit of that name. An evergreen is found which produces a nut, shaped largest in the middle, tapering to both ends, about an inch in length. If eaten to the number of six or eight, it will produce headache and vomiting. The most peculiar tree found is the "tay-tay" so called; it appears swelled out of all natural proportions, and is of a light spongy nature. When an incision is made through the bark, a milky gum exudes freely; this gum, mixed with the tallow of the native goat, seems to have been a sovereign remedy with the former frequenters here, for cuts, burns, etc. Goats and deer, in small numbers, are found, that feed chiefly on the tender twigs of the tay-tay, and the protruding roots of the cactus. The flesh of the latter is invariably tender and fineflavored, while that of the former is all seasons tough and unpalatable. The climate, or what they feed on, perhaps both, prevent them from being strong and active, as is their real nature to be. Sailors when on shore run them down, and frequently catch them in that way.

SEALS AND SEA ELEPHANTS.

SEALS and sea-elephants once basked upon the shores of this isolated spot in vast numbers, and in years past its surrounding shores teemed with sealers, sea-elephant, and sea-otter hunters; the remains of their rude stone-houses are still to be seen in many convenient places, which were once the habitations of these hardy men; one of these houses found on the west side is of large dimensions, a rough measurement making it 40 feet square. The sea-elephants, amphibious animals, at particular seasons of the year come on shore to shed their coats, and bring forth their young, and in various numbers lie promiscuously along the beach, or up the ravines near by; they are gregarious, and when not disturbed will congregate in "rookeries" of hundreds. None but the full-aged males have the proboscis; some of them are truly enormous creatures, being from 12 to 20 feet long, and otherwise of proportionate size with the common seal, which in form nearly resembles the same. The female is about half the size of the male; before shedding their coats, both the male and female are of a yellowish brown, but after the old coat falls off they become the color of the land-elephant, and continue so for four or five months, then gradually change to the former color again. A singular fact connected with these animals is, that they have never been found north of the equator, except on the islands and coast of California, their chief haunts being in the high southern latitudes. When on land they are naturally clumsy in their movements, but at times in their own defence exhibit more agility than one would think them capable of. On first coming to their favorite landings, a gently rising sandy or pebbly beach, they are very fat, the largest making from four to six barrels of oil, but after "shedding" they becomes so poor by the time they return to the water again that they would not yield more than half that quantity. The usual manner of taking them is for a party of men, in one or more boats, armed with clubs, lances, and rifles, to land in front or near the rookery while they are asleep. Then stationing themselves between the animals and the water, with one simultaneous rush, with weapon in hand, the work of slaughter commences. What seems strange to those unacquainted, they all move in a body up the beach away from the water, where they may be captured at pleasNow and then some overgrown male, that may have escaped from some former attack, will stand his ground; a ball from a rifle through his brain dispatches him at once, and all rush on again to share the sport together. The quantity of blood in the elephant is surprising; it is supposed to be fully double in proportion to that of a bullock. They are taken for their oil, which is of good quality, and next to sperm for lubricating purposes.

ure.

THE SEA-LION AND SEAL.

THE sea-lion, also amphibious, is nothing more than the full-grown male hair-seal, its length being eight or nine feet, otherwise of proportionate size compared with the sea-elephant. The

female is called a "clap-match;" the "flippers" of the lion, which take the place of legs, are longer, and the animal on land or in water is more active, than the elephant Those found on the coast of California are of a dark-brown color, and are destitute of the mane which this species have that inhabit a high southern latitude. The food of the seal is principally fish, but occasionally birds; this is the case with the lion particularly. The manner in which they decoy and catch the white and gray gulls exhibits a high order of instinct; when in pursuit of these birds the seal dives deep under water, swims a short distance from where it disappeared, then rises slowly again, just showing the tip of its nose above the surface, giving it a rotary motion, as often we see a kind of water-bug at play. The unwary bird on the wing seeing the object alights near by to catch it; at that moment the animal again settles, and, at one bound, with extended jaws, seizes its prey.

The fur-seal in form and habit is much like the hair species, except that they delight in playing through the heavy surf on a rocky shore; they are covered with a fine fur, which makes their skins valuable. The full-grown males are called "wigs," the females and pups have the same name as the hair-seals; all of them are taken for their skins and oil, and in the same way as the sea-elephant, unless they are found on narrow beaches, or detached rocks; in such places they are shot with a rifle. But those innumerable herds of sea-elephants have long since been nearly exterminated, and here seals likewise are found only in comparatively small numbers.

ACCOUNT OF TWO MEN LIVING ON THE ISLAND.

ALTHOUGH extremely barren, man may live on the productions here found, as will appear from the following: In 1856 two men were left on San Bonito Island, by the American sloop Ino, to take seals, while the others on board went to another point on the coast for the same purpose, intending in due time to return, but the Ino never came. As a last resort the two adventurers crossed over in a small boat to Cedros; here they passed three months, living principally on the flesh of the deer, which they hunted in the mountains; their names were Francis Miller and J. N. Whitney. These men were inured to hardship and rough living, but they came to the firm conclusion that bread was the staff of life, although they consumed incredible quantities of deer-meat and fish. Still, to use their own expression, they "always felt hungry."

It is said, by those having had experience in searching for minerals, that indications of extensive deposits are found scattered over the island, gold and copper predominating. Whether any valuable mines do exist remains to be proved.

SAN BONITO ISLANDS.

THE San Bonito Islands are three in number; two of them are moderately high, the middle one quite low, latitude 28° 3', longitude 115° 45'. They lie 15 miles west from Cedos; they are separated from each other by narrow passages, where boats may pass through in safety, but not practicable for large vessels. The whole length of the three islands is not over 10 miles. The western one is largest, being about five miles in extent; the other two about half the size. All three are very barren, affording neither wood nor water; seal and sea-elephant are the only animals found on them, of these there were formerly large numbers. In 1853 there were found on the south side of the largest of the group the remains of a Japanese junk; whether it was some part of one said to have been cast away on the coast of Oregon several years ago, or the remains of some other Asiatic craft, is a matter of conjecture. That it was one or the other there is but little doubt; the planks were fastened together on the edges, with spikes or bolts of a flat shape, with the head all on one side. The seams were not straight, although the workmanship otherwise was good; it appeared to be the bottom of a vessel, and gave evidence of having been a long time on shore. Anchorage may be had on the southeast side of the middle island in from 10 to 20 fathoms, but the bottom is quite rocky and poor holding-ground.

NATIVIDAD ISLAND.

BETWEEN Cedros Island and the coast lies the island of Natividad, which rises 700 feet above the level of the sea; its length is five miles, and not more than one mile wide, perfectly barren, the breeding-place of large numbers of sea-fowl and seal. From an islet of the west end (Maria Island) several small cargoes of guano have been taken; it was at this place a few years ago that several American ships left in a great hurry, their masters supposing they had been warned off by true Mexican authority.

St. Roque Island is in latitude 27° N., and less than two miles from the coast; it is a low rock, nearly covered with coarse gravel and light sand, intermixed with bird-lime. The whole extent of the island is not over five square miles; its shores are the herding-places of seals and once a favorite resort of the sea-elephant; large numbers of the small sea-fowl called "mutton-birds" burrow in the sandy covering of the island, where they hatch their young. Good shelter can be found for a small vessel between the island and the main, which is occasionally made use of by sealers.

Asuncion Island is of the same description as St. Roque, except being a little higher; it is in latitude 26° 50′ N., longitude 114° W., and affords a good anchorage on its southeastern side in 12 to 15 fathoms water, well sheltered from the prevailing northwest winds.