tons, drawing 15 feet, have passed the bar in safety going in, but have been obliged to wait a fair wind out again.

"I have beat out over the bar twice in rough weather, without difficulty, in a ship of 300 tons, drawing 12 feet. Vessels now run regularly between San Francisco and this lagoon, bringing return-cargoes of salt, which they procure at the head of the lagoon, from natural salt-ponds-an almost inexhaustible uantity.

"Both Scammon's and Ballenas Lagoons are fronted by low sand-hills, and shoal water 'extends a long way off shore. If bound for Scammon's Lagoon, the land should be approached within two or three miles, in latitude about 28 41 N. Keep the coast aboard, if clear weather, and run along the southward, where you will see Lagoon-head.' It makes like an island; steer a course to pass a mile to the westward, and if near night you may anchor under Lagoon-head, and await daylight, when, with the accompanying chart as a guide, there is no difficulty in finding the entrance and passing the bar with a commanding breeze.

"Ballenas Lagoon is situated near the head of the open bay of Ballenas, in latitude 26° 40' N. and longitude 113° 15′ W. This lagoon was first geographically known in the year 1860. In the month of December, 1860, a fleet of four whaling-vessels, under my command, passed the bar and entered the lagoon in safety. We entered by the North Channel, which is not more than half a cable's length wide; and 12 feet of water is all that can be depended on in crossing the bar at high water with average tides; but where the shoalest is, there is but little or no swell. In the South Channel there is 15 feet of water at high tide, but much more swell. The only safe way we found to pass the bar of this lagoon was, first to sound out the channel and put buoys at convenient distances apart in mid-channel. South Channel is about the same width as the North, and the distance across the bar is not more than a cable's length.

"Neither of these channels would be of any practical use, if it were not for the certainty of the strong land and sea breezes which make a fair wind to pass either in or out of the lagoon. "In the months of December and January, and a part of February, north and northeast winds prevail, which destroy the heavy ocean-swell that prevails at other seasons of the year. During the smooth season there is but little difficulty in sounding the channel with boats, and placing buoys as you please. Neither wood nor water can be procured at this place. A ranchero,' who lived eighteen miles inland, furnished the vessels with plenty of eattle to kill for beef. The price was usually about sixteen dollars for a bullock. From the head of this lagoon to the east coast of the peninsula-to the shore of the Gulf of California-is only about 40 miles; and we frequently had people from Loreto and to visit the vessel for the purpose of trade, bringing dried figs, dates, and the wild oranges of the country, to exchange for bread, flour, and clothing."

NOTES ON THE COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA.

"IN sailing along the coast of Lower California, I have always made it a rule to never run a ship through thick kelp before sounding it. By adopting this plan I avoided all hidden dangers, for the space of eight years, which time I was almost constantly cruising close along the shores and in the bays or lagoons adjacent.

"Formerly there was a great deal of kelp along the coast, but from some cause in 1861 it almost entirely disappeared, and up to the spring of 1863 had not grown again to any extent. "Deeming the information might possibly be worth the reading, the following remarks are

made:

"From San Martin's Island to San Geronimo Island, which lie north and south, and south of the port of San Quentin, there are many shoal places, and rocks, which are not laid down on any charts of the present day. Off San Quentin, bearing about south by compass, distance five or six miles, a rock or shoal exists that the sea breaks heavily upon in moderately rough weather. Much foul ground is found between San Geronimo Island and the mainland. Rocks exist in the passage betwixt the islands of Cerros and Natividad, but nothing that will bring a ship up till near the shore on either side. The passage between Natividad and the main should not be attempted by those unacquainted, as it is known that one ship has been seriously injured by striking a rock in going through in the night.

"At Cerros Island, at the east side, near the southeast end, there is a small stream of water coming from the side of a mountain, near the base and running close to the beach. From 1,200 to 1,500 gallons of water may be procured during 24 hours' time. The casks are filled by rolling them to the upper side of the beach, and laying a spout from the stream to the bung-hole of the cask. The water is difficult to find, and the only sure way of finding it is to begin near the southeast point of the island, and search the shore carefully to the northward till it is found. Directly abreast of the watering-place it is deep water close to the shore; 20 to 25 fathoms would not be more than two cables' length from the beach.

"About half a mile to the southward the land is quite low, close to the shore, and low land extends back some distance. It is fronted by a gravel beach. Here good anchorage may be had in 17 to 20 fathoms. There are no hidden dangers on the east side of Cerros, and, with the usually westerly winds, it is generally calm and smooth at the anchorage. At times when the winds get to the south of west, which is not often, heavy nillies blow from the mountains.

"Wood may be had at this place by following the gulch toward the interior. It is small, and being a mile or more from the shore, requires a good deal of labor to secure any considerable supply for a ship. Although small, it is of excellent quality. We obtained four months' supply for cooking-purposes, with a crew of 30 men, in three days, not making over eight hours each day.

WINDS AND WEATHER ON THE COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA.

"FROM San Diego to Cape San Lucas, northwest winds prevail throughout the year, following the bend of the land as you close in with the coast. During the months of December and January the regular coast winds (northwest) are most likely to be interrupted by heavy 'northers.' These winds blow from north to northeast, and last from one to three days. Southeast gales of much strength seldom occur. From November to April, about the change of the moon, light southeast gales may occur, with considerable rain. About the breaking up of the bad weather, when the wind hauls about southwest, it sometimes blows quite fresh for a few hours; then the wind comes from the northwest, bringing fine weather again. About Cape San Lucas these remarks do not apply so well in the hurricane season on the coast of Mexico -as gales occurring on that coast sometimes reach the cape and extend as far north as Magdalena Bay—but one instance of this kind occurred, to my knowledge, during eight successive years. "C. M. SCAMMON,

(Signed)

"Lieut. Commanding U. S. Revenue Steamer Shubrick."

It may not be inappropriate to add here that evidences exist of alternate northern and southern currents. They are drawn from the fact of the conchology of the island presenting a remarkable blending of northern and southern types-to be accounted for in no other way than by the action of strong submarine currents up and down the coast.

The bay of San Bartolomé, just south of Point Eugenio, is another small, quiet, and perfectly-sheltered harbor. Fresh water has been found by digging 30 feet, at a point at the foot of a bluff on the northeast side of the bay. There is no wood. It is perhaps of little value, unless it be for a point from which to communicate with the interior. The existence of fresh water would give it an advantage in this regard over Scammon's or Ballenas Lagoon.

On the northeast side of the bay of Viscaino, about a mile from the main, is a barren rock, about of a mile in length by of a mile in breadth, known as "Elide Island," on which was formerly a valuable deposit of guano, now wholly removed. A small quantity of that valuable article is still to be found on the rocky islets outside of Cerros, and on like spots along the mainland. Captain Howes, who is familiar with every point along this portion of the coast, thinks guano might be collected in the aforenamed localities in quantities sufficient to be worth attention.

I visited Elide Island and the adjacent mainland on my return from Cerros. There is a good landing for boats on the mainland, a little northeast of the island, with but little surf, on a sandy beach; I did not go far into the interior. The general aspect of the country is that of thirst and barrenness, producing only a few thorny shrubs and numerous cactacea. The adjacent mountains are, doubtless, metalliferous. Captain R. N. Dearing, who had charge of Elide, showed me some good samples of copper ore found at no great distance, as he was informed, in the interior. Silver is said to exist in the same locality. The specimens and information were obtained from the natives.

MINERALS-COPPER.

A VERY remarkable feature in the mineralogy of the island is the general diffusion of copper in various mineral forms throughout every formation, whether slates, shales, basalt, or porphyry. Everywhere stains and spots of copper met the eye on the weathered surfaces of the rocks. Among the slates, segregated masses of ore, of a few pounds up to a ton in weight, were frequently observed. They seemed to have no traceable connection with any regular vein. Had careful excavation been made in and about such localities, valuable developments would probably have resulted. I was unfortunately deprived of the means of efficiently performing a work so essential, and had to be content with a few very superficial openings that gave no available information. The ore consisted seemingly of an oxide, mingled with carbonate, sulphuret, and earthly impurities. It reduced readily into metallic copper in an ordinary portable forge we had with us. Traversing the slates were observed occasionally small seams, or very narrow veins of carbonate of lime, filled with metallic specks of copper in great abundance. These seams varied in width from an inch to 3 inches.

It is more than probable the slates holding these veins and segregations might, in some localities, be found rich enough to be worked. The whole formation is cupriferous in a greater or less degree. It would be well worth the examination to test the fact. The practically inexhaustible quantity would admit of a low quality being made available.

This copper-bearing range seems to occupy the eastern side of the island, nearly the whole length. It first begins to show itself strongly near Mount Ayres, and thence north to the end. The seams of metallic copper were more abundant on the northeastern spurs of Mount Ayres than elsewhere. The elevation is about 1,500 feet above the sea, and

about two miles from the shore. The segregated masses have generally about the same elevation. Toward the north, however, they descend, and are found within an elevation of 500 feet.

MANGANESE.

FRAGMENTS of this mineral were found in several places in ravines. I observed no veins nor masses, but toward the north the fragments were so frequent, that not much doubt exists as to the probable abundance of the ore at certain points.

CHROMIC IRON.

MASSES of chromic iron ore, associated with serpentine rock, are found in every part of the island, especially in the first and second ranges. In two places, one on the east of Mount Ayres, and the other a short distance south of Dearing's Valley, there are seemingly regular veins. The first-named vein is about three feet in width, the latter probably 20 feet-being the largest mass of that ore I ever encountered. A good road can be made to within of a mile of the spot. Near it are several of the small seams, containing metallic copper, as above described. This would be the most convenient point to obtain the ore for shipment, should it ever be required. In the event of vessels returning to Europe in ballast, a cargo of value might be had here at little cost.

TITANIFEROUS IRON ORE- (APPENDIX J.)

A VEIN, of about 10 feet in width, of this ore, was found on the northern part of the island. It outcropped boldly, and was traceable, according to my recollection, about 150 feet on the surface. As iron from this ore is of great value, and is coming into demand for many important purposes, it may ultimately add much to the resources of the island. Other localities will probably be found near good landing-places, though the above great mass is by no means inaccessible.-(See Appendix.)

GOLD.

THE last portion of the island examined was the extreme north, by far the most interesting of all, from the widely-diffused indications of minerals. Carbonate and sulphide of copper were found everywhere. The great vein, however, was not found. The inactive portion of the expedition had become weary with idleness, and were clamorous for a return to San Francisco. Disgusted with the non-realization of their hopes, as to the concentrated wealth hidden somewhere on the island, it became necessary to abandon the prosecution of further search. But a few hours were therefore allowed for a hurried reconnoissance of our last field of operations.

Samples were hastily gathered from a remarkable locality, showing abundantly the usual metallic copper specks, as we supposed at the time. On closer examination in San Francisco, after our arrival, we found these samples to be gold instead of copper. The specimens were broken without discrimination from a large mass of similar rocks. Should it prove to be as extensive as it seemed, with the richness possessed by the samples brought away, it is truly a valuable locality.

But as my information is so very slight, I simply give the facts for what they are worth-stating, however, my favorable impression as to the existence of a valuable mine. The locality is only about a mile from shore. A road would have to be made over rather difficult ground. A small, quiet bay, nearly in front of it, would make a good embarcadero for shipping the ore. There is, unfortunately, no fresh water on that part of the island. Six or eight miles south is the nearest.

None of the party save myself and two sons saw, or were near, the locality. From the nature of the broken and intricate surface, the mine is not likely to be rediscovered soon.

SILVER.

A PIECE of ore was brought in from the interior of the island, in which I detected silver. The examination was not followed up, as the trace of metal was very slight. I believe, now that I have become familiar with the silver-mines of Nevada, that silver may be found in paying quantity on Cerros.

Should mines of any kind be opened on the island, so as to induce practical miners to re side there, I should not doubt the ultimate bringing to light of valuable mineral resources in no stinted abundance.

CLIMATE.

As far as temperature is concerned, I know of no spot so favored. My experience only extends, however, to one-fourth of a year. During my three months' sojourn, the thermometer did not vary over ten degrees between midnight and mid-day, on the eastern side of the island. The average temperature was 74° Fahr. A more delightful climate could scarcely be imagined for an invalid. To the consumptive and rheumatic patient, no more genial temper ature on the earth's surface could be offered. The atmosphere is dry, but not harsh. Rain, I imagine, seldom occurs. Floods, at distant and irregular times, with intervening periods of

entire drought, as on the main shore in the same latitude, may, of course, be expected here. There were two slight showers during my stay.

The prevailing winds are from the northwest. There is a fair and interesting means of observing the thickness or depth of the wind-stratum. It is nearly exactly 1,000 feet from the surface of the ocean to the upper side of the moving mass of wind. On this float the sea-mists, which are hurled, as it were, against the mountains, and rebound in the form of slow-moving grand, gigantic billows, which, viewed from the peaks far above them, have a most weird and fearful appearance.

Up to the elevation above named, the wind strikes with unabated force and persistency, as at San Francisco. Trees and shrubs-what few there are of them-are bent down and pressed as it were against the mountain-side. At and above this line commences a region of perpetual calm, which is about the depth of the region of perpetual agitation below it, viz., 1,000 feet. Within this zone of quiet, slender trees and shrubs stand perfectly erect, evidently never disturbed by rude winds. The two groves of pines are in this belt. The clouds rest here, and bathe the trees with perpetual moisture. The leaves are forever studded with drops of water, and the groves at any and all times seem to have just been subjected to a gentle rain-shower. The earth is sloppy, and a hole scooped out anywhere under the trees is quickly filled with fresh water.

At a greater elevation, the wind again revels round the mountain-peaks, in irregular directions and with uncertain force. Vegetation becomes again scanty, as the air becomes dry and untranquil. A few cedars (Juniperus cerrosiana, Kellog) and manzanito-trees (Arctostaphylos) of a species I had not seen before, were the only arborescent representatives above the cloud-zone.

In connection with the climate, I may mention certain singular markings on the surface of the ground, resembling neatly-swept garden-walks, which must have had a meteoric origin. One of these walks was about a mile in length, nearly due north and south. Commencing at the south, it ran in nearly a straight line, continuing over hillocks, rocks, ravines, and obstructions of every kind; at the end of a mile, it curved very regularly, with a radius of about 200 feet, and returned nearly exactly parallel with its first course, at a distance of about 150 feet from it, and terminated about opposite to where it commenced. The breadth of the track is six feet.

A little north of the above is a still more remarkable road. It is 30 feet in breadth, and forms a complete circle of nearly 160 feet in diameter. It then passes off in a curve towards the north, gradually bending to the east, with a radius of about 5,000 feet. It is traceable a mile and a half. The width of the road, on the long curve, is about three feet. It is swept out, in some places, four or five inches in depth. It is lost, finally, in hard, rough ground. It presents the appearance as if a jet of water-such as issues from a huge hydraulic pipe, used by the California miners-had been impinged in a moving column against the surface of the ground. It may have been the result of a whirlwind charged with the contents of a rain-cloud, the point just touching the earth, and delivering the water it bore as if from a funnel. May not water-spouts be formed in this way?

FAUNA.

Or the animals, deer and rabbits are probably the only native quadrupeds. The herds of wild goats are, of course, the descendants of those introduced-how many years ago is unknown. The deer presents marked peculiarities, and, if not a new species, is at least a wellcharacterized variety, making the nearest approach to the black-tailed Cervus Columbianus. We found them abundant in the northern part of the island. They seemed less timid than the goats, and I have had them approach within ten paces of me, snuffing and stamping with an air half-threatening, half-playful.

Amongst the introduced animals may be named those pestiferous rodents, rats and mice. The Mus decumanus, the brown or Norway rat, with his little cousin, the M. musculus, or house-mouse, follow commerce and establish colonies wherever ships touch land. Thus the coast of California, and the adjacent islands, are by no means badly supplied with representatives of these familiar pests. To the list of native rodents I may add a small jumping-mouse (Jaculus. -).

The vicinity of Cerros Island is a favorite resort for that interesting animal, the sea-otter (Enhydra marina). Formerly they existed in great abundance, and the value of their fur caused them to be hunted with relentless energy. A man, skilled in the business, could sometimes realize a little fortune by a season's hunt. I was informed by an old otter hunter that numbers of the Northwest Indians were, for a long time, annually brought with their canoes to Cerros, by coasting schooners, from whence they made extensive and successful excursions in the neighborhood of the Cerros and the adjacent islands. At the present time the animal is comparatively scarce. It is still hunted, however, but with less vigor than of yore. The skins are worth from $25 to $50 each-one-fourth of their former price. One of rare size and beauty occasionally brings $75. The sea-elephant (Macrorhinus proboscidius), one of the most gigantic of the seal family, resorted formerly in great numbers to Cerros and the adjacent islets. They were much sought after for their oil. The species,

1

as Captain Scammon informs me, is now nearly extinct on this coast. Not so, however, with the sea-lion (Otaria jubata). He is more prolific, and there are fewer inducements for his destruction. He is, however, by no means beyond danger from the oil-man. At certain seasons, when the lion chances to have a little fat on his bones, he is slaughtered most mercilessly. Fortunately for him, his skin is nearly worthless, or there would be a double inducement for his destruction. Toward the north end of the island there is a great breeding-place for these animals. It is a small bay, two or three miles in length, and perhaps three-fourths of a mile in breadth, surrounded on the land by a perpendicular cliff, and on the ocean-side by a belt of kelp. It is thus protected both from winds and waves. It is bordered with a sandy beach, some 200 paces in breadth. The access by land is exceedingly difficult, and can only be gained by careful clambering down where breaks and fissures offer hand and foothold. This sequestered and quiet place is the comfortable and appropriate resort of the lionesses to bring forth and rear their young. It is indeed a great seal-nursery. My first visit to this interesting locality was in the latter part of the month of July. Seals, in countless numbers, literally covered the beach. They were of every conceivable size, from the young one, seemingly a few days old, up to the full-grown animal. So unconscious of danger were the little ones, that they scarce made an effort to get out of the way. I picked up many of them in my hands; after a brief struggle, the little captive would yield, and seemed to fear no further harm. Hundreds slept so soundly, that I rolled them over before they could be induced to open their great baby-eyes. While thousands slept and basked on the shore, an equal number floated lazily in the water, or dipped and dived about in sport.

The mother-seals were more timid than their young, but seemed less alarmed than surprised at my approach. The look of startled inquiry was so human and feminine-nay, lady-like, that I felt as an intruder on the privacy of the nursery.

I could not discover any individual claim set up by the mother for any particular little lion, but, like a great socialistic community, maternal love seemed to be joint-stock property, and each infant communist had a mother in every adult female.

me,

The fathers of the great family appeared in point of numbers to be largely in the minority, counting, as I judged, not the hundredth part of the adult animals. A few bearded, growling old fellows, tumbled about in the water, yelling and howling in a most threatening manner at and approaching within a few feet of where I stood. A pebble tossed at one of them, however, would be answered by a plunge beneath the surface and reappearance at a safer distance. I witnessed an unexpected act of tenderness on the part of one of the hugest and most boisterous old threateners for a little one that seemed to claim him for papa. He was blowing and screaming at me fearfully, when a young one at my feet hustled into the water, glided off to the old one, and, childlike, placed its mouth up to his. The old savage ceased his noise, returning the caress, and seemed, for several seconds, to forget his wrath at the unwelcome intruder. This show of affection saved his life. I was at the moment, rifle in hand, waiting a chance to dislocate his neck. I wanted the skull of an otaria for my collection, and his huge size suggested him as an appropriate victim. I at once lost all murderous desire, and left him to the further enjoyment of parental felicity.

The noise and uproar of the locality are scarcely to be imagined. A hundred thousand seals grunting, coughing, and shrieking at the same instant, made a phocine pandemonium I shall never forget. I will observe here that the male was fully four times as large as the female.

In giving the generic and specific names of the the sea-lion (Otaria jubata), I have followed the writers on the zoology of the Pacific. The skulls in the collection of the California Academy of Natural Sciences are so labelled. Newberry calls it an Otaria, with a question as to the species, in the sixth volume of R. R. Reports. It seems, however, according to Gray, who has investigated the subject, that our sea-lion belongs to the genus Eumatopias (E. Stellerii, Gray). This is the name of the fur-seal of the north, which our sea-lion does not resemble, at least in fur-producing qualities. Its identity with the E. Stellerii seems to be based upon the evidences presented by two skulls sent to the Smithsonian Institute from the bay of Monterey, California. This, it seems to me, would hardly be sufficient, without further investigation, to justify the placing of our hairy lion with the fur-coated Eumatopias.

There may be a doubt, on the other hand, if the California sea-lion, with his maneless neck, can be identical with the southern Otaria jubata, whose designation of "lion" is obtained from the male having the leonine appendix of a mane. It is not impossible-hardly improbable— that our sea-lion, like our gray whale, remains yet to be christened with a scientific name by some zoological high-priest.

The sea-elephant, though usually bearing the name before given (Macrorhinus proboscidius) is really M. Angustirostrus--the former belonging to high northern parallels, and perhaps, never reaching as far south as San Francisco; while the latter extends from Oregon to at least as far as Cape San Lucas, where Captain Scammon informs me he has often seen them. How much farther south they extend I am not informed.

Besides the foregoing, I only observed one other seal at Cerros. It was a beautifully spotted animal-dark spots on a yellowish ground-known as the leopard-seal (Phoca —?). There are really several phocas on the California coast, and the question of identity remains yet to be settled as to most of the Pinnipedes of our shores.

From seals the transition to the subject of whales is easy. But if doubt is applicable to