in St. Giovanni Laterano-Canova, his works and studio-His death, and history of his monument at

Venice, intended for Titian-Simple tomb of Titian-Studio of Thorwalsden, the great living sculptor

-Studio of Bienaimé-Gibson's Cupid-Modern Italian Sculptors-Cameos-The Scarpellini-

School of mosaic-Process of executing works in mosaic

CHAPTER VIII.-NOTES ON COMESTIBLES.

Page 143

Vehicles of the Roman Farmers, admirably constructed and highly picturesque-Mornings in Rome-

Piazza Navona the handsomest market-place in Rome-Church of St. Agnes-Cries of the vendors-

Cheeses: Maccaroni and Vermicelli-The Champagne of the Romans-Comestibles for the Christmas

Week-Superb display of fruit in October-Dyspepsia scarcely known in Italy-" Foreign Messes"-

Beautiful breed of Perugian cattle-Their mounted drivers-Abattoirs-Fish Markets-Various kinds

of fish-Wines

Page 160

CHAPTER IX.-PALACES, VILLAS, FOUNTAINS.

Nepotism extinguished the splendour of the old Baronial names-Families of the Borghese, Barberini,

Pamphili, Rospigliosi, and Altieri-Upwards of Sixty palaces in Rome distinguished for architectural

beauty-The Farnesi and Barberini palaces built with materials torn from the Coliseum-The Corso,

an avenue of palaces-The Cinquecento style carried to perfection by Bramante-Elizabethan or

British semi-gothic style-Architectural detail of various palaces-The Vatican stands at the head

of European Palaces: consists of twenty-two courts with their colonnades, eight grand and two

hundred small staircases-Its entrance by the splendid staircase of Bernini-Raphael's studies in the

palace of the Cæsars-Some of Claude Lorraine's finest pictures in the Doria palace-Leonardo da

Vinci's famous pictures of Vanity and Modesty, in the Palazzo Sciarra Colonna-The celebrated

statue of Pompey, at the Palazzo Spada-The Farnesi palace the finest architectural work of

Michael Angelo-Roman Villas, not houses, but gardens-The Villa Borghesi, the confiscated

domain of the Cenci family, the Hyde Park of the Romans-The Villas Pamphili, Doria, Albani,

and D'Este-Great fountain of Paul V.-The beautiful fountains in front of St. Peter's-The fountains

on the Piazza Barberini, and on the Piazza Navona....

CHAPTER X.-THE CARNIVAL AT ROME.

.....

Page 171

Via Babuino-The Corso-Showers of Confetti-Signal cannon for the horse race-La Contessa-Small

breed of race horses, their goads and trappings-The Start-Via della ripresa de barbari, the horse-

catching street-Method of re-capturing the barbs-A fatal accident-The prize-The triumphant

march to the Capitol !-Masked ball, at the Teatro Alibert-Beauty of the Roman Women-Last

day of the Carnival-The triumph of death represented by torch-light-Conflict of the muccoli, or

lighted candles-A moving illumination and a shower of fire-Extinguishing the muccoli... Page 188

CHAPTER XI.-THE HOLY WEEK.

Pontifical ceremonies performed in the chapels of the Vatican-The Last Judgment, by Michael

Angelo Distribution of the palms, &c. &c.-Heavenly harmony of the voices of the Sistine chapel:

no instrumental accompaniments-The celebrated Misereri of Allegri, its solemn and impressive

sweetness-The desertion of the cross- -The Pope washes the feet of the representatives of the apostles

Rush of ladies-The supper, and scramble for fragments Baptism of converts at St. Giovanni

Laterano-Ordination of priests-Celebration of the deposition in the sepulchre-The resurrection—

Easter Sunday-High mass celebrated by the Pope beneath the dome of St. Peter's-Pilgrims visiting

Rome in the holy week-Papal Benediction of the whole christian world, from the balcony of St. Peter's

The illumination by the cross suspended in the dome, imagined by Michael Angelo, discontinued-

EASTER MONDAY: LA GIRANDOLA-The grand display of fireworks from the summit of the Castle

of St. Angelo seen from the Tiber-Cannon announce the first grand bouquet of rockets, at the

second hour of night-The effect of a vast palm tree of fire-The Pifferi or Calabrian minstrels at

Christmas-The Bethlehem cradle, the Santa culla, at Santa Maria Maggiore-Fête of the chair

of St. Peter-Candlemas-Benediction of animals at the convent of St. Anthony, in the Piazza of

Santa Maria Maggiore-Chapel of the Quirinal, the private chapel of the Pope.......... Page 201

LIST OF PLATES.

VIGNETTE TITLE, illustrated with Eight Views:-Entrance to the Villa Borghese (p. 4)-Benediction of Animals at the Convent of St. Anthony, with a View of Santa Maria Maggiore (p. 61, 216)-View in the Gardens of the Villa Borghese (p. 184)-Trajan's Column, and Church of Santa Maria di Loreto (p. 87.)-Column of the Virgin, on the Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore Arch of Septimus Severus (p. 90.)—The Campagna of Rome (p. 7)— Arch of Titus (p. 92).

View of Rome from the Janiculan Hill.........

The Coliseum, from the Palace of the Cæsars......

The Capitol, and front of the Church of Ara-Cœli......

Temple of Concord...

St. Peter's, from the Villa Pamfili......

Via Scelerata

The Pantheon, from the Piazza........

Interior of the Pantheon ......

Side View of the Portico of the Pantheon.......

Page

1

15

21

22

38

64

67

68

68

Arch of Septimus Severus, from the passage leading to the Capitol; the Coliseum and the Apen

View of the Church of St. Agnes in the Piazza Navona (with the Obelisk and Fountain designed by Bernini)

163

Piazza Barberini (with its beautiful fountain) ......................................

187

The Castle and Bridge of St. Angelo, with the grand display of Fireworks from the summit of the
Castle, and the illumination of St. Peter's........

214