side of the entrance called "El Frayle" (the Friar) S. 42° W. true bearings. In going in the Friar should not be brought to the westward of S.W.b.S. until Cavite bears east, you may then steer E.N.E. for Manila.

The best anchorage for ships intending to load at Manila in the southwest monsoon is with the lighthouse on the mole N.E.b. N., 2 miles in 4 or 5 fathoms. The outset of the river enables the cargo boats to reach the vessels on that bearing, when they would not attempt to go to the vessels farther out, or with the lighthouse bearing more easterly. In the north-east monsoon vessels anchor closer in.

Worked to the southward with variable winds and squally unsettled weather; passed outside the small islands Cabras and Luban intending to pass to the west of Mindoro and Aowr, the Macassa sea; but after contending three days off Point Calavite against a strong current setting to the northward, on Sunday, August 8th, bore up for the Straits of Bernadino, and at 8h. P.M. passed through the channel between Isle Verde and Point Columpan, currents very strong and irregular. Monday, August 9th, light winds south-west, passed to the southward of Marindigue at midnight, and at daylight found myself set considerably to the northward by the current; ship well in with "Cabeza de Borda". 11th and 12th working down the coast of Burias against the current. 12th, 8h. P.M. south point of Burias northeast, calm all night, ship drifting along in a fairway by the current to the eastward, a breeze from the westward. At daylight 13th at 8h. A.M. rounded the north point of Ticoa, a very strong tide or race running in eddies off the north point of this island, run down the eastern coast of the island at a moderate distance; at 1h. P.M. anchored in 12 fathoms abreast the ruins of a fort on the south side of the entrance of Port St. Jacintha. In anchoring here the north point of the entrance should be given a wide berth, as a reef runs out to the southward from the point a large half-amile. By not hauling in for the fort until the north side of the harbour becomes visible it will be avoided, the lead is a good guide. To the southward of the entrance and well inshore lies a detached rock, covered at high-water, called Solitario. This is an excellent little harbour in the S.W. monsoon, where a ship might heave down and refit, but she must depend entirely upon her own resources. The naval arsenal and building yard of Sorsogon is only thirty miles distant on the opposite coast. only produce of St. Jacintha is the Bremina, or vegetable pitch, which is sent to Manila in large quantities. Refreshments might be obtained if a ship could wait for them, as they would have to be brought from the interior. I however, obtained six sheep, two dozen fowls, and a bullock very reasonably.

The

August 14th, 1h. P.M. weighed with a fine breeze west, and expected to be soon through the straits. As I was told we should have a fourteen hours' tide in our favour, at 8 P.M, entered the narrowest part of the straits between Calantas and Capul, when the tide suddenly turned, and although the ship was going 3 knots through the water she was driving rapidly astern towards the rocky islets Naranjos; hauled to the northward, and drove clear of them; at 1h. A.M. the tide appeared to have changed in our favour, stood for the straits again, and when in a fair-way

found the ship to be again rapidly driving towards the Naranjos; the weather for a short time became squally, then calm with heavy rain, the night perfectly dark and the ship unmanageable, in a strong current, driving we know not whither. No bottom close alongside the rocks astern of us, and which would not have been visible until we felt them; this continued for about two hours, the sea breaking upon the decks from the violence of the current: at 3h. A.M. the weather cleared off, found the tide turned, and we had made considerable progress through the straits; in half an hour we were through them. In passing between Capul and Calintan although we had then a four-knot breeze, the ship was almost unmanageable from the violence of the current, which was boiling up in eddies on all sides and breaking on board; the ship's head first looking for one shore and then for the other, the hands bracing the yards about as required to pay her off; but, however, we were driving rapidly through in mid-channel.

This channel should never be attempted in the night or with light winds, as from the want of anchorage it is very dangerous should it fall ealm; the flood tide setting down towards the Naranjos with great violence. I have heard of one ship being carried in between them in a calm, and from thence between the south end of Ticoa and Masbate, the violence of the current keeping her clear of the rocks. At 8h. A.M. we passed between Bernadino and Baliquator Islands clear of the straits.

Carried moderate winds until the 21st, on which date passed ten miles west of St. Andrew Islands, and in their neighbourhood first experienced the easterly current spoken of by Horsburgh, August 22nd, lat. 3° 30′ N. long. 132° 20′ E. From the lat of 5° 44' N. have been set to eastward 85 miles in 27 hours, upwards of three miles an hour, and had no perceptible current afterwards: carried the westerly wind to 24 miles N. lat. and had then light winds from the eastward. August 25th, lat. 0°, long. 133° 6' E., saw the coast of New Guinea to the southward forty miles distant. 26th, light easterly winds and a current to the westward, twenty-five miles in twenty-four hours; Cape of Good Hope S.W.W., lat. one mile N., long. 132° 3' E., light, easterly winds and calms: 6h. P.M. the east-end of Waygiou W.4S., and Amsterdam Island S.S.E.; steered S. W. fifteen miles, and W.b.S.; which should have taken me in mid-channel: at 2h. 30m. A.M. saw the Island of Waygiou bearing W.b.S., must have had a current from S.W.: 7h. 30m. the current appeared to have changed by the opening of the land. Calm, ship drifting in a fair way to the westward; at noon the east end of Waygiou N. E. lat. thirty-one miles south.

August 28th, calm, ship driving to the westward in mid-channel; King William Island west; the night fine and clear; full moon yesterday: 2h. A.M. abreast King William Island, light breezes, S. E.; hauled up to pass between Pigeon and Fowl Islands; at daylight Pigeon Island W. N.W. 12 fathoms sand, saw the water breaking on the shoals in the neighbourhood of Foul Island. A.M. steering for Fishers Island, a strong tide or current set us so the N.W. off the land. After getting Pigeon Island to bear N.b.E. ships should haul well in for the Battanta shore.

By my not doing so I was set down to the chain of low flat islands to the N.W. of Battanta with a southerly wind, and one day was occupied in working up to Fishers Island, as it is necessary to pass that island pretty close to ensure weathering Pulo Popo, which I afterwards found from a strong current setting N. W. between those islands. Had the canoes off from Battanta shore, built with plank, instead of being hollowed out as usual; the articles of barter which they brought off, consisted of tortoise-shell, mats, small pearls, and beautiful birds. They appeared to put considerable value upon their goods when compared with the other islanders of the east. They appeared also to have had some intercourse with the French; as their constant demand was "Linge, Linge," and soon made us sensible that they wanted shirts or other garments in exchange for the goods. They were very stout and powerful men, and had a profusion of woolly hair of a brownish caste.

At 7h. P.M., well in with Fishers Island, tacked to S.S.W., wind rainy, easterly, and the current running strong to the N.W.

29th, A.M., steered to W.S. W. along the south side of Pulo Popo; at 7h. A.M. saw a large boat apparently well-manned, pulling away to southward, seemingly with a desire to avoid us. Upon our hauling up a few points toward him, he very quietly put up a short stout mast and made sail away from us; as I had no desire to close, kept my course and shewed our colours; he then quickly wore round, and steered N.N.E. shewing a large flag-blue and white, blue and white, stripes horizontal. A strong current to the N. W. here also. The Kanay Islands in Norie's chart are ten miles in error to the N.W. At noon Pulo Pesang W.b. N..N. The round hummock on the N.W. end of Pulo Popo, N.E. lat. 1° 36' S. long. by chronometer carried on from 9 A.M. 129° 19', by bearings of the land 129° 15' E. August 30th, moderate breezes S.E. found little or no current as we increased our distance from the islands, lat. 2° 21' S., long. 128° 47′ E. The coast of Ceram in sight from S.E. to S.W.

September 1st, light winds and calms during the last two days, with no perceptible current at a distance of twenty-six miles from the coast; the channel between Ceram and Bonoa open. The north point of Bonoa, is 2° 47' S.! it is laid down in Norrie's chart 2° 50'S. P.M. a light breeze S.E. The tide or current drawing us rapidly in between Bonoa and Ceram attempted that passage, but at 2 P.M. the wind veered S.S. W. (right down) and blew fresh, bore up and rounded the north point of Bonoa, very erroneously laid down in the chart; could see nothing of the reef which is shown off the north point although I rounded that point pretty close.

Thursday, September 2nd, beat through the channel between Manipa and Bouro without much difficulty, a slight current setting to the northward. Not being able to weather Amblaw ran between it and Bouro and over the position of an extensive shoal, as marked in Norie's chart; no appearance of any danger visible. There are several large houses on the N.W. part of Amblaw, and apparently very good anchorage in the S.E.

monsoon.

September 4th, fresh breezes E.S.E, lat. 7° 15' S., long. 125° 30' E. a current to the westward, twenty miles in twenty-four hours.

September 5th, 8h. P.M. saw a bright light on the east end of Ombay. Found a strong current setting to the eastward, as we approached the island, which enabled us to weather the east point without any difficulty, wind E.S.E.; rounded the east point of Ombay at 1h. A.M. about ten miles distant.

September 6th, lat. 9° 27' S., long. 123° 24' E., light winds E.S.E., current to the west twenty-five miles. I may now consider myself to have arrived in the open ocean, having been thirty-three days from Manila, (S. W. monsoon,) in close navigation; and, I have been thus particular with this part of my passage, because, at Manila, there was a very great difference of opinion amongst the commanders of vessels trading to Sydney, as to the best route down against the S. W. monsoon; some were in favour of the route down the Celebes Sea, and through the straits of Macassar; while others were for running round the north end of the Phillippines, and so into the Pacific, without loss of time. From my own experience, I should decidedly prefer the route I have already described.

Upon my arrival at Sydney, I found I had passed through the Ombay passage, and into the Indian Ocean, a week before a vessel which left Manila seven days before me; he came down the Celebes Sea, &c. He, however, arrived before me, by keeping at a greater distance from the coast of New Holland. He made the best of his way into 100° E. long., and had a fresh trade wind; while I skirted the coast at a distance of 300 miles, and had the winds very light. Another vessel which left Manila ten days before me, and passed round the north end of the Phillippines I spoke off Cape Leewin, both of those vessels had the advantage of me in sailing. Passed Cape Leewin 5th of October.

October 16th, at noon, Mount Schank Ñ.b.E. E., lat. 38° 10' S., standing in N.E.b.E., wind S.E.b. E.; at 3h. P.M., the water having a very shoal appearance, sounded, expecting, from the chart, to have about 20 fathoms, was surprised to find but 7 fathoms, being then about ten miles from the shore; tacked off for one hour, and then stood in again. At 6h. P.M., got several casts of the lead, 7, 61, 51, and 4, (shoaling quickly); about ship, when round, had 5 fathoms. At the same time, breakers were seen bearing east, distant three miles. The extreme point of Cape Northumberland bearing west; and Mount Schank N. 46° W.; distance of the ship from the shore, abreast of her about five miles. Stood off all night, wind hauling round to N.E.

October 18th, entered Bass Straits; the barometer had fallen since preceding noon 68 of an inch, made me apprehensive of bad weather; but, afterwards found the fall of the mercury was occasioned by the change of the S.E. wind to a fresh land wind, which took us when off the entrance to Port Philip, blowing in hot gusts. When in among the islands, had a fresh breeze from the eastward, thick weather, with small rain for twenty-four hours; ship's position marked on the chart every two hours. Arrived at Sydney, Tuesday, 25th of October. J. F. TRIVETT.

To the Editor N.M.

16

STATISTICAL SKETCH OF GRAAFF REINET.-Cape of Good Hope.

THE division comprises the first tract of country occupied by the Dutch inhabitants in the Eastern Province. It was formed into a district in 1786, after the then governor of the Cape, Van de Graaff, and his wife' Reinet. For many years, however, anterior to this, it had been occupied by the white man; the colonists, in their migratory excursions from the westward in search of water and pasturage, penetrating to this neighbourhood, where they established themselves with their flocks and herds.

At that time it was found very thinly inhabited by straggling tribes of Bushmen, who "roamed on the dreary waste unclad," sustaining a wretched and precarious existence by game, killed with their poisoned arrows, by feeding on the larax of ants, and on locusts; large flights of which, and especially when drought prevails farther in the interior, occasionally spread over this and the adjacent divisions. They possessed neither flocks nor herds, never cultivated the soil, built no houses, but lived in the most savage state, their habitations being the clefts of the rock, and their only care that of appeasing for the moment the calls of hunger.

The early colonists, the pioneers of civilization, found these people for a considerable time excessively troublesome. The most daring acts of robbery were committed by them; whole flocks of sheep, and large numbers of cattle and horses were frequently driven off and destroyed; not solely for food, but to gratify that sanguinary propensity inherent in man, when living in a savage state. These acts of robbery were often attended with the murder of the farmer and herdsmen; and there are also numerous instances on record where whole families of the whites have paid for their intrusion into this country by the forfeiture of their lives.

The two classes thus meeting in mutual hostility, a struggle ensued, not merely for territory, but for existence. Plunder and violence on the one side, were followed by retaliatory measures on the other; until the weaker party gradually gave way, and the country became permanently settled by the whites; and was included within the limits of the colony.

It is due, however, to the farmers to say, that, during this struggle for supremacy, many well-directed attempts were made by them to civilize, and to win these people from their wandering and savage life. Flocks of sheep were several times raised by voluntary contributions of the inhabitants and presented to adjacent kraals; but these were no sooner received than destroyed; their old habits of prowling round the stock stations of the colonists being renewed with, if possible, increased bitter

ness.

Time, however, has wrought a change: many of these people, amongst the most degraded in the race of man, were killed in the course of the early feuds; others fell back deep into the interior; numbers of them entered into the service of the colonists, where they have now, by admixture with other native tribes, almost lost their distinctive character.