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being likewise for the most part sand, added to its confined space, which prevents a ship veering to any extent, makes it still more unsafe.

Whilst the Calypso was at Apia, from the 26th of March to the 6th of May, the weather was generally speaking fine, some squalls of rain and wind occasionally occurred, but the wind generally being from the eastward, no inconvenience was felt; the thermometer ranging from 80° to 84°; the facility of watering is a great advantage, as is also the abundant supply of fresh pork poultry, vegetables and fruit, which are procured at reasonable prices. Fresh beet is likewise occasionally to be had, but during the time of my visit to the Navigator group, the native wars had caused so much destruction to the lands, and stock of this description, that it was procured but seldom, and with much difficulty. The capabilities of these islands seem great, the land being extremely rich, and the climate good, but the wars amongst the natives being incessantly going on, added to their habitual idleness, prevents the production of more stock, or other articles; (with the exception of cocoa-nut oil, which they barter to the Foreigners for exportation,) than supply their wants, together with that of the Foreigners residing amongst them, whose principal employment is the furnishing of whale ships that call at Apia for refreshments.

On the 2nd of June at 11h. 30m A.M., I sailed from Apia for the Feejee Island, with the usual trade winds, shaping a course to round the next island of Savau to the westward, and then to the south-westward, the weather from the 2nd to the 5th, was squally and the wind strong, accompanied with heavy rain, and a high sea, causing the ship to pitch and roll heavily, the wind being from E.S.E.; the thermometer ranging from 77° to 82°, and barometer from 30 10 to 30 30. In sailing into the Feejee group, Í had determined in consequence of the imperfect knowledge that existed respecting them, and the innumerable dangers with which they are surrounded, to enter the group from the southward, by rounding Turtle Island, and to do so, I steered a course to take the ship about forty miles west of it. Having reached this point at 9 P.M., on the 5th, sail was shortened till daylight, when it was again made, and the island steered for; and at 8h. 30m. A.M., the island was sighted ahead, and about thirty miles distant, when the course was altered to S.W.b. W., in order to pass it.

At the distance of fifteen miles to my surprise, however, at 10h. 30m. A.M, breakers were reported ahead, when the ship was immediately brought to the wind, and it blowing fresh, sail was shortened, and the top-sails double reefed, &c., the reef was eventually weathered by about four miles. I had procured from the master of the whale ship at Apia, the work of Capt. Wilks, of the American exploring expedition, with his charts and plans of the Feejee Islands, in which it is stated that Turtle Island had been surveyed, and the reef, on which an American whale ship had been lost, examined. I cannot, however, conceive this to be the case, or if so, some great error must exist in the publication, for not only is there no mention made of this detached and dangerous reef, but the position of the island itself, is placed very erroneously, and which is the more necessary to correct, from its being the south-east point of this intricate group, and which vessels from the eastward would usually round, in entering it. We made the centre of the island to be in lat. 19° 47′ S., and long. 178° 8' W., twenty-nine miles to the eastward of Wilks, who places it in lat. 19° 50′ S., and long. 178° 37. W., with a reef extending five or six miles in a south-west direction, and a large oval coral patch detached from it lying north and south, eight or nine miles in length, both of which were breaking heavily. The island is apparently about six miles in length.

Having stood sufficiently to the southward, to clear the last mentioned reef we bore up W.b.N., in order to pass between the islands of Matuka and Totola distant about 130 miles, as being the clearest route towards the Island of Ovalan, whither I intended in the first instance to go. The weather however, appeared threatening with a strong wind and a high sea, when having reduced the sail, and made the ship snug, with the precaution of having extra lookout men on the yards, and bowsprit, and running on towards those islands till 10 P.M., at which hour the moon had set, I hove the ship to, not considering it prudent to run farther in amongst the group till daylight, when at 5h. 30m. A.M. I again made sail; and at 6h. 30m. sighted both those islands, N.N.W.; at 10h. 30m. we passed midway between them; they are moderatly high, or about 800 feet.

Proceeding almost in a direct line for the Island of Ovalan, with the wind at east and north-east, we passed several islands and sighted many more, all of which appeared to be surrounded by extensive reefs, the sea gradually smoothing as we got within the islands, though the wind was still strong, and the appearance louring.

On advancing to the northward, we continued to sight several islands in various directions, and at 5h. 15m. P.M., the detached and dangerous reef of Mumbolittee was seen W.b.S., when sail was shortened and the ship brought to the wind S.S E., the reef bearing west three or four miles, the wind a strong breeze from east, the island of Angan at the same time bearing north-west. Mumbolittee reef is about a mile in circumference, and is about fourteen miles south of Angan, the sea invariably breaks heavily upon it.

ARCTIC OCEAN.

YANKEE WHALING ENTERPRISE.-The American Whaling barque Superior, commanded by Captain Roys, sailed from Sag Harbour to cruise in the South Pacific, but not being successful, Capt. Roys decided to carry out the plan of a voyage which he had been contemplating for several years. This plan embraced a cruise in the Arctic Ocean, through Bhering Straits. He had collected what information he could in regard to those regions, which had hitherto only been visited by such adventurous navigators as Cook, Clerke, Kotzebue, and Beechey. Capt. Roys informs us that the principal reason which induced him to put away for that ocean, was a remark which he recollected to have read in Beechey's Voyages, viz:-"Off here we saw a great many black whales, more than I ever remember to have seen even in Baffin Bay." This remark is found in Vol. I of Beechey's Voyages, p. 379, and refers to Icy Cape, situated in lat. 70° twenty miles, and W. long. 1620. Capt. Roys has furnished us with the following outline of his cru ze in the Arctic Ocean.

"I entered the Arctic Ocean, about the middle of July, and cruized from continent to continent going as high as lat. 70°, and saw whales wherever I went: cutting in my last whale on the 22nd of August, and returning through Bhering Straits on the 28th of the same month. On account of powerful currents, thick fogs, near the vicinity of land and ice, combined with the imperfection of charts and want of information respecting this region, I found it both difficult and dangerous to get oil, although there are plenty of whales. Hereafter, doubtless, many ships will go there, and I think some provision ought to be made to save the lives of those who go there, should they be cast away, they should not be left to perish among the Indians who inhabit those regions."

In conversation with Capt. Roys we have obtained additional information, which may not be uninteresting to our readers. During the entire period of his cruize there, no ice was seen, the weather was ordinarily pleasant, so that men could work in light clothing. In most parts of the ocean there was good

anchorage from 14 to 35 fathoms. During a part of the time that the vessel was there she lay at anchor.

The first whale was taken at twelve o'colck at night! It was not difficult to whale the whole twenty-four hours; so light was it that at midnight it was easy to read in the cabin. The whales were quite tame, but entirely different from any which Capt. Roys had ever be ore taken. He took three different species, one of the largest yielding 200 barrels of oil. The first species much resembled the Greenland whale, yielding about 160 or 170 barrels; the second was a species called Polar whale, a few of which have been taken on the north-west coast; and the third a small whale peculiar to that ocean. The last three whales which were taken yielded over 600 barrels.

The American coast has been explored, surveyed, and found to be inhabited. Captain Roys discovered that the Asiatic coast was also peopled by numerous Indian tribes, and he expressed the opinion that they are well supplied with valuable furs, which could be easily purchased. There are no good charts of the Asiatic coast, unless they are in possession of the Russians.

On entering the straits, seven canoes containing forty men each were seen crossing from the American to the Asiatic coast. There are three small islands situated in the passage, hence rendering it extremely easy for the dwellers on the American and Asiatic continents to pass and re-pass Capt. Roys did not hold any communication with the Indians, as his vessel was but partially armed, and in one instance the Indians showed disposed to make him a hostile visit when becalmed; but a favourable breeze springing up soon carried the vessel beyond the region of danger.

The success which has attended the Superior's cruize to the Arctic occan will undoubtedly, stimulate others to follow her adventurous track. By referring to the charts it will appear that at favorable seasons, ships may cruize over 10 degrees of longitude, and as far north as the 70th degree. As the attention of the whaling community will now be directed to this part of the ocean, as yet but very partially explored, especially on the Asiatic coast, it will be necessary for cruizers to exercise great watchfulness and precaution. The charts of that ocean are extremely imperfect. Attached to Beechey's voyages, published in London 1831, there is a well executed chart of the American coast from Bhering Strait to Point Barrow, the most extreme point of land as yet explored, lying in 71° 20. In the opinion of Capt. Roys, this chart of Beechey's is the most accurate which can be obtained. This ocean, doubtless, varies very much during different seasons: some seasons it is much more clear of ice than others. Ships would not probably be much endangered by floating icebergs, from the fact that almost any part of the ocean can be easily sounded. Knowing that our seafaring readers will be anxious to learn everything that can be known respecting that region, we publish such accounts of exploring voyages as are accessible.

PRESENT CONDITION OF PITCAIRN ISLAND.

No. of Inhabitants Male and Female.-Number of Inhabitants 149, Males 75, Females 74; of this number three are English, one a Tahitian woman, widow of Young of the "Bounty," aged about 80, two men of the first generation, one of those a son of Adams, named George, the other a son of Quintal, named Arthur, and seven females of the first generation, three daughters of Adams, one a daughter of Christian, one of Young, one of Mills, and one of McCoy, the remainder are children of the second and third generations.

No. of Births and Deaths in a Year.-During the last five years one-fifth of the population have been born, and only one has died a natural death, one of lock jaw, and a child burned to death.

Diseases, and which most fatal.—The diseases most prevalent are asthma and catarrah, which prevail most among the females. Billious attacks are frequent, but slight and easily giving way to the treatment; within the last seven years we have been visited by influenza, of which two have died. Since our return from Tahiti in 1831, there have been sixteen deaths, four of those were accidental,

four of fever, one a disease of the ear, one of the heart, one of cancer, one of consumption, two of influenza, one in child birth, and one in infancy.

Trades and Occupation.-Occupied chiefly cultivating the ground, and carpentering. Several of the young men good at cabinet making, and some as blacksmiths.

No. of Marriageable Males and Females at present Unmarried.-Males eight, females seven.

Soil, Climate, and Seasons.-Very rich but porous, a great proportion decomposed lava, the other a rich black earth with clayey ground, climate temperate, thermometer 59" to 89° in the shade. Spring commences in August, which is our harvest, when we dig our yams and potatoes, which are our principal food. We have two crops of potatoes per year, which are planted in February and July, and dug in June and November.

Winds, distinguishing those that prevail and what kind of weather they bring.-No regular trades; in the summer months the wind prevails mostly from E.S.E., to north. Northerly winds are generally light, often accompanied with rain or fog, when the wind is north it invariably goes round to the westward, from which quarter and south-east we have the strongest gales, when it is southwest it is generally clear weather and moderate breezes. During the winter season, the prevailing winds are from S.W. to E.S.E.

Productions, Animal and Vegetable.-Animals-hogs, goats, and poultry. Vegetables-yams, sweet, and Irish potatoes, the api root and tarro in small quantities. Fruits-plantains, pines, melons, oranges, bread fruit, sugar cane, limes and the Vi or Brazilian plum. Grain-maize.

Food, and Clothing how obtained, and if plentiful.-Food chiefly yams, and potatoes. Animal food two or three times a week. Fish are getting scarce. Bed clothes are generally manufactured by the Females from the Ante or Paper Mulberry. Wearing apparel obtained from whale ships in exchange for vegetables, &c. Often in want of cotton cloth, blankets, and woollen articles: soap,

scarce.

No. of ships visiting the Island, and if troublesome.-The average number of ships touching at the Island annually about eight, mostly Americans, and always behave well. Last year there were seven, ten less than the year before: the last vessel that touched here was an English brig from New Zealand bound to California with Emigrants; eight English females amongst them.

Any general information respecting habits, modes of life, Laws Regulations, &c.— On the 1st of January a Chief Magistrate and Councillor are elected; all over sixteen years of age are voters, (both male and female,) the chief Magistrate then chooses his Councillor or Secretary, the duty of the Magistrate is to convene meetings and hear cases; it is then left to the decision of a Jury of five persons, and if the decision is not satisfactory to both parties, they are allowed to appeal to the Commander of H.M.S. ships of war: punishments are generally fines or labour. The inhabitants generally retire to rest early and arise with the sun. From August to November they have plenty of employment, digging yams, also planting bananas, yams, and potatoes, weeding ground, &c. When not busily employed they generally meet in the morning, and if the weather is favourable go fishing, and if not, on Saturday go goat hunting for a Sunday dinner. On the arrival of a ship off the island, no ore is allowed to go on board before the pilot, he always takes charge of the boats when landing, and provides for the Captain when on shore: each family in rotation stands pilot, or provides a deputy, who always expects a small remuneration for his services.

The females generally assist in the cultivation of the ground, preparing thatch for the houses, &c, and in fact are more employed than the males, they are generally very strong, many of them being able to carry a barrel of potatoes down to the landing place.

Queries proposed by me and Answers supplied by Messrs. Buffett and Nobbs.
J. WOOD, (a)
Lieut.-Com. H.M.S. Pandora.

THE NAVIGATION LAWS.-Declaration of Reciprocity by Sweden. The following important proclamation of the King of Sweden and Norway, conceding to british vessels the same privileges in Swedish and Norwegian ports as native vessels, has been officially published by the Consul General of those countries in London:

We, Oscar, by the grace of God King of Sweden and Norway, the Goths and the Vandals, make known that, it having been officially reported to us that in consequence of the new navigation laws which have passed the parliament of Great Britain, and been ratified by the government of the said kingdom, Swedish vessels, subject to stipulated conditions of reciprocity, will, from and after the 1st of January, 1850, (with the sole exception of the coasting trade), be treated in like manner as British vessels in all ports under the British rule; we have, in return for the privileges thus granted to 8wedish vessels, been graciously pleased to decree that from and after the 1st of January, 1850.

1.-British vessels visiting the ports of Sweden shall, both on arrival and departure, be treated in the same manner as native vessels in respect to tonnage and port dues, and all other charges to the crown, town, or private institutions of every denomination.

2.-All goods being the natural production or manufacture of any country soever, the importation of which into the ports of the kingdom of Sweden is legally permitted by Swedish vessels, may be imported into Sweden by British vessels from any place soever; and, likewise, all goods, the exportation of which from Sweden by vessels of the country is legally permitted, may be exported thence by British vessels: in both cases without the goods in question so imported or exported being subject to higher charges, of any denomination, than would be levied if the goods from or to the same places were imported or exported by Swedish vessels. Which all whom it may concern have to regulate accordingly. For greater certainty we have signed this with our own hand, and caused it to be sealed with our royal seal.— Palace at Stockholm, the 26th day of October, 1849,

(Signed)

OSCAR.

A List of New Charts published and corrected by the Admiralty, and Sold by R. B. Bate, 21, Poultry.

s. d.

SCOTLAND, Sheet 1, Firth of Solway to the Firth of Clyde, Capt. C. G.
Robinson, R.N., 1838.

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Do. do. 2, Firth of Clyde, Campbeltown, &c., Capt. C. G.
Robinson, R.N., 1848.

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do. 6, North Coast from Thurso Bay to Cape Wrath, Com.

Otter, R.N., 1844.

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Sanda Island, Capt C. G. Robinson, R.N., 1848.

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Port Alne,

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ENGLAND, West Coast, Sheet 10, Formby Bay to Fleetwood, Capts.
Sir Edward Belcher, H. M. Denham, and G. Williams, 1837, to

1847.

ACAPULCO PORT, Capt. Sir Edward Belcher, C.B, R.Ñ., 1837,
PUGET SOUND, Mr. Inskip, 1846.

FONSECA GULF, Capt, Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., R,N., 1838,
PORTS FITZROY AND PLEASANT, Capt. B. Sulivan, R. N., 1838,
COCAGNE HARBOUR, Capt. H. W. Bayfield, R.N.,

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