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suing our way through a long track of hills and rocks, where no beaten path was to be seen, we arrived towards evening at the base of the mountain; and though we had been rising for the last twelve miles, still he looked "mighty high."

Down one of the polished rocks on its sides, a miniature waterfall was expending its tiny stream in four separate leaps. On our right was a branch of the Kat River, which rises here,-a puny stream. Behind us lay an extensive landscape, embracing an immense extent of country. We now emerged from this wild looking place, and found ourselves descending into a lonely valley, from whence the Zeekol River has its source; this being the third river whose source we had fallen in with during the day. At this moment a few reboks came bounding down the neighbouring heights, clearing at the base, by one bound, an immense chasm cut by the water. These elegant antelopes passed close to us, and were soon lost in the neighbouring hills.

Towards sun-set we reached the farm of Field-cornet Du Toit, where we had some refreshment and a comfortable bed. The hospitality of the South African Dutch farmers is really beyond all praise. At the close of a hard day's ride, a traveller dismounts at the door of a man whose name is unknown to him, of whose very existence he was to this moment ignorant; nevertheless, he is cordially received by the farmer with an invitation to "off saddle," to come in and rest himself; food is immediately placed before him, or coffee during its preparation. The good vrouw is seen busily engaged laying sheets and covering on a bed in a spare room, set apart for strangers and travellers. After supper and a bowl of milk, you are conducted from the refectory to the dormitory, the boer having first made himself acquainted with your name and occupation, which combined with any little news you may have it in your power to communicate, appears to reward him for his trouble and hospitality; pecuniary remuneration being neither sought for nor expected, and if offered, refused. In the morning you are not allowed to start before having partaken of coffee, and a crust of bread. At the many farms where it has been my lot to stop, no shadow of difference in hospitality have I experienced, a uniform kindness prevails amongst these kind-hearted and simple people.

Bidding farewell to our kind entertainers, we started early the next morning, (4th), and rode in half an hour to the base of the mountain, which can only be ascended from the western shoulder. The ascent being moderate on this side, we managed to ride a good part of the way up; at last becoming too steep we off saddle, and knee-haltered our horses. Having failed in procuring a boy or guide, we were obliged to leave the horses by themselves, and to grope our way up, the best way we could, over immense detached masses of rock, which had fallen from the neck above, until we were suddenly brought to a stand still, by a precipice of about 1,200 feet deep. This spot commands a fine view of the neighbouring hills. Here we found snow in all the crevices, and on the ledge of the rock facing the south.

From this point we were obliged to descend, in order to try some

more practicable point, as a vast wall of perpendicular columnar masses of granite rose directly over our heads to the height of 300 or 400 feet. This wall runs entirely round the mountain, appearing to defy the attempts of an ascent. Many of these columns are from 80 to 100 feet in length, and about 16 to 20 feet girth; some have slipped from their former elevated spots, and have been hurled into the abyss below; others are about to fall. One I remarked had slipped from its place, its heel resting on the edge of the head of its neighbour below, ready upon the slightest motion being imparted to it, to follow its companions below. Another column of about 60 feet in length, had slipped from its place, but had been stopped in its headlong course by falling between two others, where it had become firmly wedged, as a key stone in an arch; others had snapped in two, and were bulged out in the middle, and appeared as if the slightest breeze would displace them. At last we discovered an opening in the wall, whence we could prosecute our way. At one spot we were necessitated to pile up stones to enable us to reach an overhanging ledge. After a long and tedious climb over loose rocks we reached the summit, where an old flag-staff is planted, the flag having long ago been blown to atoms, and well were we repaid for our toils, which had lasted three hours from leaving the farm. We now stood upon the highest land in South Africa, at the height of 10,250 feet above the marine level.

To the north, looking over the Rhinoster Berg, lay stretched out the immense plains which are intersected by the Orange River, the boundary of the colony. These plains abound in wild beasts, (gnus,) quaggas, ostriches, spring boks, lions, and other large game. The peculiar mountain at Colesberg, the Toverberg was distinctly visible. To the east is seen the lofty peak of the Storm Berg, the western shoulder of the Quathlamba mountains, which range runs through a great part of Kaffraria, as far as 28° south latitude, and through the country of the Amazoolus.

To the south-east the dense bush or jungle of the Great Fish River is seen running in a southerly direction through the District of Somerset, until lost to view in the distance; beyond which the Tarka mountains and Winterberg, the latter on the confines of the colony and Kaffraria closed in the view.

A little more to the south looking over Buffels Hoek, a confused series of mountains and hills in the District of Somerset and Albany, which defy description and cut short the view. To the south, looking over the Camdebo mountains, and Great Karro or Desert, the Winter Hoek mountains stand out in bold relief. The Cock's Comb, with its singular bold outline, peculiarly distinct to the east of which the sea, at a distance of 150 miles, was plainly discernible. To the south-west the view is bounded by the Groote Zwart-bergen, or Black mountains, be

This is doubtful. Persons who have made the geological structure of this province a subject of considerable study, are of opinion that granite is not to be found, and it seems probable, therefore, that Licut. Sherwill may have mistaken the true character of the peak.

fore reaching which the eye wanders over the Zwart-ruggens and Great Karoo in the District of Uitenhage. At our feet lay the grand semicircle of the Sneuwbergen, with its thousand peaks and table mountains. In the Winterveld to the north is seen the immense Table mountains standing alone the monarch of the plains. The whole embracing one of the most extensive views in South Africa, of many thousands of square miles.

A thunder storm that had been brewing the whole morning in the west, now announced its approach by distant rumbling and bright flashes of lightning. The panorama was complete. The Camdebo

and Sneuwbergen mountains were enveloped in the thickest rain clouds, from whence issued the most vivid flashes of forked lightning; through a break in these clouds, a part of the Sneuwberg mountains were seen of the brightest orange colour, faintly tinged by the falling rain, whilst to the north all nature was smiling in a beautiful sunshine, unconscious of the approaching storm, which was to shake the hills to their foundation. Perceiving the storm to be rapidly approaching to the spot where we stood, we descended a few yards on the lee side of the mountain to seek for some cave or shelter. Finding an overhanging cliff, where we might repose in safety from the storm, we again ascended to the top to witness the imposing scene; for now the clouds approached nearer and nearer, heavy drops commenced falling, forerunners of mischief, while Heaven's artillery pealed from every cloud. As we approached the flag-staff, a creaking noise as of an insect common about these rocks, (Blatta Africana,) was heard in every direction. Stooping down I turned over some of the stones to satisfy myself that the noise was occasionod by the insects in question, on doing which I grasped the flag-staff, and at the same time divested myself of my hat, immediately my head and hands were stung as if by a thousand needles every hair on my head stood on end, and every thing appeared on fire. The truth flashing on my mind, I stood up, and to my horror, and confirmation of my conjecture, saw my friend similarly situated, he was in a blaze of light! The fact is, we were immediately under a highly electrically charged cloud, the fluid from which was passing down the flag-staff and us into the rocks at our feet. With an exclamation to the effect that it was lightning, I bounded down the sides of the mountain with a rapidity that gave my friend reason to believe I had leapt the precipice in fear. In a very short space of time we both found ourselves crouching at the innermost corner of our cave, having in great haste divested ourselves of our knives, pocket compass, and other metallic substances, which we placed at some distance from us.

In a few minutes heavy rain, succeeded by heavier hail, commenced falling, whilst the thunder shook the surrounding heaped up masses of rock.

The lightning was awful and blinding, succeeded by an instantaneous crash. The cold became intense. With the utmost anxiety; we counted the pulsations at our wrists, which began to inform us of the storm passing over, which it did sooner than we expected. Right glad were we,

when from being in the thunder clouds, we were enabled to calculate the distance of the storm, as the distance encreased from one to nine miles. At last it died away in indistinct murmurings, as it sped its course over the Tarka and Winterberg mountains.*

Ascending once more to take a farewell of this beautiful scene, all nature seemed refreshed from the passing storm; the air clear and transparent-the hills and valleys smiled with gladness as the bright sun once more illumined them with its beams. Mixing some snow (of which we found plenty at the summit) with our wine, we drank to "absent friends."

As light fleecy clouds were fast closing round us, we commenced our descent, which we accomplished in safety. We found several rare botanical specimens in our descent, and several craniums of the rock rabbits, victims of the numerous eagles which abound here, which build their nests in the clefts of the rocks, and on the summits of the large pillars of stone surrounding the head of the mountain. Finding our horses where we had left them, we up-saddled at 2 P.M., and rode through the Sneuwberg and a flight of locusts, putting up at the farm of Van de Merwe in the evening, where we were kindly treated, and presented with food, which was the more acceptable as we had fasted twenty-four hours.

Next morning passed the Kat River, a running torrent from the late storm. Towards evening we rode out of our way half an hour to view the waterfall, near the junction of the Beaufort, Colesberg, and Graaff Reinet roads, and about two miles from the foot of the Oude Berg. I refrain from any description, most waterfalls being alike; but would recommend any one travelling that way to ride out of his path, only three miles to view it, as it will well repay the trouble and loss of time. Descending the Oude Berg pass, we arrived at Graaff Reinet, on Saturday the 5th, having been absent but four days, and gone over 150 miles through one of the most interesting and picturesque parts of South Africa, and where mountain scenery is seen in perfection.

EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL of a VOYAGE TO THE NORTH-WEST SIDE OF AMERICA.-By J. Colnett.

[The journal from which these extracts are made, appears to have re mained unpublished among the records of the Admiralty for many years; and at the present time, when every kind of information on Vancouvers Islands is desirable, the condition in which he found it sixty years ago, may prove interesting. Capt. Colnett, prefaces his journal with the following introductory remarks.]

* A Hottentot was struck dead by lightning at Cradock, and many people were knocked senseless to the earth by this very storm.

Having been recommended to a company of merchants trading to the north-west side of America in the beginning of July, 1786, I received a letter from their secretary offering me the command of a cutter to perform a voyage in to King George's or Nootka Sound, as soon as I could obtain leave of absence from H.M.S. Pegaze, of which ship I had been first-lieutenant for three years. I waited on the Governor of the Company, and after some little conversation the first plan was altered, and he determined on chartering a ship and purchasing a smack to accompany her.

The beginning of August a ship was selected, and a smack purchased. Some doubts arising from the age of the ship, being thirty-six years old, of her ability to make a passage round Cape Horn, she was regularly surveyed by carpenters, and pronounced fit for the purpose: the command of the ship was given to me, and to be called the Prince of Wales, burthen 171 tons, pierced for fourteen guns, half frigate-built, and to carry thirty-five hands, officers included. The smack was to be commanded by Charles Duncan, a master in the Royal Navy, and to be called the Princess Royal, buthen 65 tons, to carry four 2-pounders, and

fifteen hands in all.

The ship was hauled into gun dock in the river Thames, a false keel put on, bends, and water ways caulked, and some little alterations made; by the 13th was out of dock. The smack also was caulked, sheathed, &c., and off the slip much at the same time. We both began to fit out with every expedition, but one unforeseen business or other prevented our leaving the river till the 23rd of September.

On the 27th anchored in the Downs, the wind being to the westward. Captain Duncan thought he could tide it down Channel to Spithead, at which place I was to take Mr. John Etches on board, as supercargo. I desired Capt. Duncan to lose no time, and I would follow him as soon as the wind would permit. Next morning had a light air of wind from the S.S.E., weighed, and came to sail; before midnight wind flew round to the westward, blowing strong; by daylight it increased to a gale; wore, carrying all the sail we could bear for the Downs. At 8 o'clock saw Folkstone. At noon the 29th abreast the South Foreland, it now blowing a hurricane from the N.N.W., which obliged us to bring up where we were, which we accomplished with both bowers, as the first anchor we let go had no effect; in this short cruize two of the mizen shrouds gave way, most of the running ropes broke, and ship strained greatly, and made much water in her upper works and sides; from the water's edge upwards scarce a seam but the oakum had worked out. In the evening it moderated: on heaving the anchors up to get further into the Downs, found a fluke of the best bower anchor sprung.

October the 1st, weather appearing settled, weighed, and came to sail; winds variable. On the 3rd got to Spithead, ran down to Cowes, and anchored, and got the caulkers to work; new rigged the mizen-mast; paid the people advance and river pay, and every thing complete and ready for sailing by the 14th.

Capt. Marshall rendered me many services while I lay here, and also NO. 2.-VOL. XVIII.

M

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