spring most of the small rivers which flow through the beautiful and fertile valleys of the county.

There is a breed of small ponies peculiar to Dartmoor; the county has a famous race of cattle and sheep; and Devonshire "clouted cream is an especial luxury, which will infallibly be placed before the tourist unasked for, and which we may say, "crede experto," he need not be afraid to try. The country is also celebrated for cider, which it largely exports.

Fourteen miles from Plymouth is the EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE, erected upon the Eddystone rock by Smeaton (commenced in 1756), which has resisted all the tempests that have since assailed it. Its two predecessors, the earliest of which was commenced in 1696, had been destroyed, one in a hurricane, the other by fire.

532 miles beyond Plymouth, is TRURO, considered the capital of Cornwall, population, 11,337. It has a considerable trade in tin

and copper ore. FALMOUTH is 113 miles from Truro, on a branch line. (Hotels: Royal, Green Bank), population, 14,485. It is a considerable sea-port, with a commodious harbour, the entrance to which is defended by Pendennis and St. Maur's castles. Before the rise of Southampton, Falmouth was the principal mail-packet station, and its harbour has been selected by the general consent of merchants as one of those at which ships chartered for orders as to a port of discharge, may call to receive them; it is therefore constantly thronged with ships of all nations.

From Marazion Roud Station, a few miles before reaching Penzance, is a fine view of St. Michael's Mount, rising above the level of the sea to the height of 250 ft. The building upon its

summit is formed from the remains of one of the earliest seats of Christianity in Britain, as it is asserted that St. Keyne made a pilgrimage to it in 490. The monastery was subject, from the reign of Edward the Confessor, to that of Edward III., to the Abbey of St. Michael, on the coast of Normandy, which occupies a very similar position. Portions of it have been castellated, and it has been for two centuries a seat of the St. Aubyn family. At high water it can be reached by boat, and at low water by a narrow stone causeway, which connects it with the mainland. This is presumed to be the Ictis of Diodorus Siculus, described as the tin depôt and mart of the Britons. From the time of the reputed visit of the Archangel Michael in 495, it was regarded with great veneration for centuries. From its commanding position, in later times, it has a military history connected with the wars of the Roses; with Perkin Warbeck, who left his wife here for her security; with the Cornish rebellion under Humphry Arundel; and with the civil war in the time of Charles I. The island is about a mile in circumference.

The line skirts the coast from Marazion, a small town, to PENZANCE, the terminal station of the railway. (Hotels: Queen's, Western), population, 9,414; the most westerly town in England. It was burnt by the Spaniards in 1595, and sacked by Fairfax during the civil war in 1646. It is the great nursery of Cornish fishermen, and their operations are not confined to the neighbouring waters, but extended as far as the Isle of Man, the coasts of Ireland, and in fact, wherever a field of profitable enterprise presents itself, as regards herrings, pilchards,

or mackerel. Their time is occupied much as follows: in fishing for mackerel in January and February, off the coast of Devonshire; and in March, April, and part of May, off Mount's Bay and Land's End; herring fishing in the end of May, June, and July, in St. George's Channel; pilchard fishing off Mount's Bay, in the end of July, August, and September; pilchard and mackerel fishing, and occasional herring fishing off St. Ives, in October, November, and the beginning of December.

In the neighbourhood are many of the most remarkable monuments connected with the ancient worship of the country: the circle of stones called the Merry Maidens, the Pipers, and the celebrated Logan, or Rocking Stone, which has acquired additional notoriety since, some years ago, it was hurled from its place out of pure mischief, by a certain lieutenant of the royal navy, and replaced by him with the aid of dockyard tackle, at his own expense. The skill and ingenuity, to say nothing of money expended upon this freak, can only be properly estimated by seeing the enormous block as restored to its lofty position. Within easy drives are Botullack copper mine, worked to a considerable distance under the sea; and the LAND'S-END, the most westerly point of the mainland of England, the rocky scenery of which is very wild and beautiful.

The strange names of places throughout this region will have naturally struck the stranger. They are derived from the old Cornish language, closely allied to the Armorican of Brittany, and the Cymric of the Welsh. The last person believed to have spoken it, was Dolly Pentreath, of Mousehole, near Penzance, who died in

1777, aged 102. It will be noticed that the English dialect spoken here is still peculiar.

ROUTE 41.

LONDON TO LEICESTER, DERBY, LEEDS AND BRADFORD.

(By Midland Railway.)

212 miles; 1st class, 33s. 9d.; 2nd, 25s. 3d.; 3rd, 15s. 10d.

EAVING London by the Midland Railway from St. Pancras Station, the first place of consequence at which we stop is BEDFORD (47 miles), (Hotels: Swan, George), population, 13,413. It is situated on both banks of the Ouse, and is a place of great antiquity, supposed to be the Bedicanford mentioned in the Saxon Chronicle. It contains six churches, of which the best worth notice are those dedicated to St. Paul and St. Peter, and a considerable number of charitable and educational institutions called the "Bedford Charities." John Bunyan was born at Elstow, a village about a mile distant, and in the county prison he composed his "Pilgrim's Progress." There is a considerable trade here in corn, malt and timber. The manufacture of lace and straw-plaiting are also sources of industry to a great part of the population. (Branch lines go from Bedford to Cambridge, Bletchley and Oxford). Near Wellingborough (63 miles) are some medicinal springs, and it is said that Charles I. and his Queen spent a summer here in order to obtain the benefit of them. On the right, near KETTERING (70 miles, is

Boughton House, the property of the Duke of Buccleuch, containing a valuable collection of paintings. MARKET HARBOROUGH (81 miles), (Hotels: Three Swans, Angel) is much resorted to during the hunting season.. Charles 1. fixed his head quarters here before the Battle of Naseby. LEICESTER (97 miles), (Hotels: Bell, Stag; population, 70,000) is an important manufacturing town on the River Soar, and is a principal station on the Midland line. It is pleasantly situated, is a clean well-paved town, and contains some very good buildings, the principal of which are the Assembly Rooms, Theatre, New and Temperance Halls and some fine ecclesiastical structures. Its principal manufactures are woollens, hosiery, gloves, cotton and boots and shoes. It is also the centre of a famous agricultural and sheepfarming district. It is a place of great antiquity, having been a city during the Saxon Heptarchy, and is rich in historical associations. It was here that Richard III. passed the night before the battle of Bosworth Field, and his remains are buried in a Franciscan convent which then stood near St. Martin's church. Cardinal Wolsey died in the Abbey of St. Mary de Pratis (now in ruins).

In the reign of Henry V. a parliament was held here, and of the castle, which occupied a large space now known as the Newarke, the Hall is still entire, and contains the Assize Courts.

The celebrated divine Robert Hall was for a long time the pastor of St. Mary's, and was born at Arnesby, in the neighbourhood. Five miles distant is Bradgate Park, the birthplace of Lady Jane Grey. Ashby-de-la-Zouch (17 miles from Leicester) contains the ruins of a fine castle, the chief incidents

connected with which are treated in Scott's historical novel of "Ivanhoe." Leaving Leicester, we next reach LOUGHBOROUGH (110 miles),(Hotels: King's Head, Bull), population, 12,000, noted for its manufactures of lace, hosiery and bonnets. Charnwood Forest, distant about six miles from this place, is famed for its splendid views, and the wild luxuriance of its vegetation. It is here that a body of the Cistercian brotherhood established themselves at the commencement of the present century, and their monastery of Saint Bernard is noted for its hospitality and the kind reception at all times accorded to visitors. Shortly afterwards we pass TRENT (1164 miles). A branch line leads to Nottingham and Lincoln (see Route 36). NOTTINGHAM (125 miles), (Hotels: Maypole, Flying Horse), population, 76,000, is built on the north bank of the Lene, and occupies a rocky eminence overlooking the rich valley of the Trent. It is an important manufacturing town, the staple trade being lace and hosiery. It has also flax mills, dye-works, and breweries. In the ancient part of the town the streets are narrow and irregular, several of the latter being built in terraces, one above the other, the ground floors of the houses at the top overlooking the roofs of those at the bottom.

The principal public buildings are the Exchange, Town Hall, Mechanics' Hall, County Hall, Infirmary, Theatre and Cavalry Barracks. There are some fine churches and a spacious marketplace.

William the Conqueror built a castle here which was dismantled during the Protectorate, and at the Restoration the ancient fortress was replaced by the present edifice, which belonged to the Duke

of Newcastle. It was burnt during the Reform Bill riots, and is now in ruins. Henry Kirke White is buried here, and in Hucknall church (7 miles distant) are the remains of Lord Byron.

[NEWSTEAD ABBEY, formerly the residence of Byron, is near Linby, a station on the railway between Nottingham and Mansfield, 9 miles from the former place. It is said to have passed into the hands of a person who rarely accords permission to strangers to visit the building and grounds. External views of them may be had from various points in the vicinity.]

Proceeding on our way along the main line, we presently reach DERBY (126 miles), (Hotels: Royal, Midland, King's Head), population, 45,000, situated on the banks of the Derwent, and forming the grand junction of the principal branches of the Midland Railway. It is finely placed on a level, fertile plain, and is surrounded by picturesque scenery.

The streets are remarkably clean and well paved, and contain some fine buildings. All Saints' church is a splendid structure. The staple manufacture is throwing silk, introduced from Italy early in the 18th century, the silk mill erected in 1718 being the first and largest of the kind in England. It has also manufactures of cotton, lace, hosiery, lead, porcelain (for which it is famous), jewellery, fluor spar, marble, &c.

It has a splendid arboretum and recreation ground. The Free Grammar School is one of the oldest English foundations, dating from 1162. Derby was the farthest place in England to which Charles Stuart, the Pretender, advanced. It gives the title of earl to the Stanley family, and was the birthplace of Flamsteed the astronomer,

Dr. Darwin (who founded the Philosophical Society), Linacre, and Richardson the novelist.

Soon after our departure from Derby we pass Ambergate Junction (1374 miles), where tourists generally leave for the neighbourhood of the Peak. (A branch goes to Manchester by way of Matlock-Bath and Buxton.) We pass in succession several stations and places of no particular note; amongst others, Chesterfield (1514 miles), a town of nearly 11,000 inhabitants, deriving its prosperity partly from its cotton and other manufactures, partly from the mines in the neighbourhood; Normanton (190) miles), where three lines the Midland,the Lancashire and Yorkshire, and the North Eastern-meet, and Woodlesford (195) miles), near which is Temple Newsam House, where Darnley, husband of Marie Stuart, was born. Here is a good collection of paintings. We shortly afterwards reach LEEDS (Hotels: Queen's, Great Northern, White Horse), population, 207,165. The principal buildings are the Town Hall, one of the handsomest and most commodious in the kingdom, the Commercial Buildings, and the Infirmary. There is an excellent Grummar School and a Mechanics' Institute, with a good library. Although for many centuries the centre of a great trade in wool and its fabrics, and having sent a representative to Cromwell's Parliament, it is only since the passing of the Reform Bill, in 1832, that Leeds has arrived at the dignity of a parliamentary borough. The woollen manufactures of Leeds, from the coarsest and commonest shawls, blankets, &c., to the finest cloth, are known all over the world. Every process, from the cleansing and carding of the wool to the dyeing of the finished pro

duction, is performed here; there are also enormous establishments for the production of machinery, canvas and linen manufactories, and many other important branches of industry, which supply employment for its large population. The improvements of so wealthy a place have naturally kept pace with the rapid increase of population, and are, therefore, nearly all of recent date.

At no great distance by rail from Leeds, are the great industrial towns of Halifax, Huddersfield, and Rochdale. As these are all, though nominally old, essentially new places, and more likely to attract merely business men than tourists, we are content simply to indicate their proximity. The family of Byron were lords of the manor of Rochdale for more than two centuries, until 1823, when it was sold by Lord Byron, the poet.

[Eighteen miles from Leeds, by the North-Eastern Railway, is HARROGATE (Hotels Granby, Dragon, Queen's), celebrated for its mineral springs, some of which were discovered in 1576. It is a place of considerable resort. Eleven miles farther on, by the same line, is RIPON (Hotels: Unicorn, Crown and Anchor), a town of considerable antiquity; population, 6,250. It has a fine Cathedral, and other public buildings." Three miles from the town is Studley Royal, the seat of Earl de Grey. In the pleasure grounds are the ruins of FOUNTAINS ABBEY, said to be the most perfect monastic structure in England. It was founded in 1204. It is built in the best style of Gothic architecture. The tower and external walls are all standing. Near the abbey is an old mansion called Fountains Hall, built in 1611, with materials taken from the abbey. The grounds

are open every day except Saturday.

About three miles from Harrogate is Knaresborough, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Nidd. Its Castle, of which only the tower and a few fragments of the walls remain, was erected shortly after the Conquest, and was occupied at one time by Piers Gaveston, the favourite of Edward II.; and after 1331 by John of Gaunt. Richard II. was imprisoned here. It was dismantled under the Commonwealth. St. Robert's Chapel is a cavern in the cliff on the bank of the Nidd, opposite the Castle. Its roof is carved, and there are some curious Gothic designs on the altar. Near it is the Dropping Well, the water from which will petrify, by degrees, anything subjected to its action. About a mile distant is St. Robert's Cave, where the skeleton of Clark, murdered by Eugene Aram (see Lord Lytton's novel of that title), was discovered many years after the event. The corn market at Knaresborough is the largest in Yorkshire.]

Two miles from Leeds we see, close by the railway, Kirkstall Abbey, founded in the 12th cen tury by one of the Lacy family. The tower, one of the gateways, some broken walls, and the remains of the chapter house, are the sole remnants of this once beautiful structure. Nothing worthy of mention is observed till we arrive at BRADFORD (212} miles), (Hotels: Victoria, George, Talbot), population 106,218.

[From Apperley, 7 miles from Leeds, a branch line extends to Ben Rhydding and

ILKLEY (10 miles), at both of which are celebrated water-cure establishments. Five miles from Ilkley, by carriage road, is BOLTON PRIORY, one of the finest ruins in