is the vault formerly containing the remains of Heloise and Abelard, marking the site of the ancient Abbaye du Paraclét, founded by the latter in 1123. After passing some unimportant places, we reach TROYES (103 miles). (Hotels: des Couriers, de France.) Population 35,676. The Cathedral Church of St. Peter and St. Paul is a beautiful and imposing structure, in the flamboyant Gothic style. It has undergone restoration to a considerable extent of late years. It retains many of its original stained windows, which are exquisitely designed, and of brilliant colours. The baptismal chapel is adorned with panels, painted to represent various scenes in the life of Christ. The treasury contains some choice enamels, and two coffers of carved ivory taken at the sacking of Constantinople in 1204. The church of St. Urban is a chef-d'auvre of Gothic architecture of the thirteenth century. Several of the other churches are worth a visit. Of the remaining objects of interest we may mention the Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel Dieu, Hôtel de Vauluisant (containing a large gallery adorned with paintings of mythological subjects), the Museum, and the Public Library. "Troy-weight" is so called because it follows the standard formerly preserved here. The church of St. Pierre at Vendeuvre (1231 miles) has a beautiful door-way, in the style of the Renaissance, and several fine paintings; amongst others, a Representation of the martyrdom of St. Ursula and the 11,000 virgins. Crossing the Aube we reach Bar-sur-Aube (137 miles), Maranville (1483 miles), and Chaumont (162} miles), the last-named being noted only as the scene of the Treaty of Chaumont, entered into between the Allied Powers in 1814, to re adjust the boundaries of France to their limits before the Revolution. Langres (184 miles) is celebrated for its superior cutlery. Its Cathedral is an elegant structure of the twelfth century. Soon after passing Champagney (265 miles) we go through a long tunnel, and enter the valley of the Savoureuse, from which we get a view of the Jura mountains on the right; we then reach the strongly fortified town of Belfort (274 miles.) The citadel and the other defences were constructed by Vauban. The railway now follows the canal extending from the Rhône to the Rhine, and then crosses it over a viaduct, from which we can see the Black Forest. We pass Altkirch (2944 miles) and arrive at MULHOUSE (3044 miles.) (Hotels: Romaine, Wagner). Population about 60,000. This is one of the most important towns of France, especially as regards cotton-printing, and the manufacture of muslins. It contains several industrial and benevolent societies, a Museum of Industry, a handsome Hôtel de Ville, &c. The Canal here forms an extensive basin. St. Louis is the frontier station on the French side, where baggage going from Bàle towards Paris is examined, and shortly after passing it we arrive at BALE (323 miles). (Hotels: des Trois Rois, Euler, de la Cicogne). (For description of Bâle see Route 75). ROUTE 60. PARIS TO BERNE, BY HE shortest route from Paris to Switzerland is by the Lyons Railway to Dijon, and thence by Dôle and Pontarlier to Neuchâtel. By this route Berne may be reached in 15 hours, by express train.) 352 miles; First class, 56'30 francs; second, 42-20 francs. (For the route as far as Dijon, see Route 63.) Crossing the Ouche, and leaving, on the right, the Dijon line, we proceed for some distance between the Canal de Bourgogne and the Ouche. In fine weather we can see the range of the Jura, and occasionally the summit of Mont Blanc. We presently reach DÔLE (226 miles). (Hotels: de Genève, de France), population 11,100. The town is prettily situated on the Doubs. It was formerly the capital of Burgundy. Soon after passing Dôle we enter the immense forest of Chaux, and emerging from it near Chateloy, we obtain a beautiful view of the surrounding country. At Arc-et-Senans there are considerable salt-works. Several other stations are passed, but no place worth mentioning until we rive at ar PONTARLIER (2834 miles), (Hotels: National, Lion d'Or), population about 5,000. This is the frontier town of France. It has considerable distilleries of absinthe and other liqueurs. Proceeding along the valley of the Doubs, we see the Château de Jour on the summit of a steep rock, beneath which the railway passes. It was the prison of Mirabeau, Toussaint l'Ouverture, and other political characters previous to, and during the first empire. Proceeding through a picturesque country, we pass Verrières, celebrated for its extensive clock manufactures, and several other places, and finally, after obtaining a fine view of the range of the Alps, reach NEUCHATEL (3154 miles). (For description of Neuchâtel, and route to Berne, see Route 93). ROUTE 61. PARIS TO GENEVA, BY 375 miles; 1st class, 67 30 francs ; 2nd, 50-50 francs; 3rd, 36.00 francs. (For that part of the route from Paris to Mâcon, see Route 63.) FTER passing Macon, the first place of note is BOURG (298 miles), (Hotels: de l'Europe, du Midi), population 13,733. This town formerly belonged to the House of Savoy. Francis I. took it in 1538, but it was not till 1600 that it finally passed into the hands of the French. About half a mile from Bourg is the Church of Notre Dume de Brou, a remarkable Gothic structure, built in 1505-36 by Margaret of Austria, daughter of the Emperor Maximilian, and aunt of Charles V. The interior is decorated with sculptures, including the beautiful mausoleums of Margaret of Bourbon, Margaret of Austria, and Philibert le Beau, fine wood carvings and painted windows. Shortly after passing AMBERIEUX (317 miles), where we join the line from Lyons to Geneva, we proceed along the bank of the river Alberine, up a narrow valley through the Jura mountains, the sides of which, up to their very summits are covered with vines. At CULOZ (334 miles) there is a branch line to Chambéry and Mont Cenis. Some miles further on we reach Bellegarde (Hotels: Poste, de la Perte du Rhône), the frontier town of France. A short distance from the station is the Perte du Rhône, a narrow rocky channel, where the river, when low, disappears for a distance of about 120 yards. Blasting operations, carried on with the object of facilitating the navigation of the river, have greatly spoilt the curious effect of this formation. Beyond Bellegarde a viaduct of eleven arches crosses the bed of the Valserine, and enters the Tunnel of the Credo, nearly 21 miles in length. The cost of making it was seven and a half million francs, and it took three and a half years to complete it. The work was under the direction of Mr. Goodfellow, an English engineer. From Bellegarde to Collonges, six miles distant, the Rhone flows through a narrow gorge, between Mont Vonache and Mont Credo, described by Cæsar as "A narrow and difficult way between Mont Jura and the river Rhône, by which carriages could scarcely be drawn, one by one; moreover, a very lofty mountain overhung it, so that a very few could easily prevent a pasNear the further exSage." tremity of the gorge is the Fort de l'Ecluse, standing on a high and steep rock commanding the pass. We next go through two short tunnels cut through the rock, and reach Collonges, the last station in France. As we proceed, we begin, by degrees, to observe the chain of heights which are crowned by Mont Blanc, and, shortly before reaching Meyrin, we obtain a view of Mont Blanc itself. On the left are the Alps of the cantons of Vaud and Valais, on the right, Credo and the Fort de l'Ecluse, behind us the Jura mountains, and in front les Salèves, overtopped by Mont Blanc. We next reach GENEVA (3754 miles). (For description of Geneva, see Route 86.) ROUTE 62. PARIS TO TURIN, BY 505 miles; 1st class, 105 francs; 2nd, 83.95 francs; 3rd, 62-65 francs. (For that part of the Route from Paris to Mâcon, see Route 63; and from Mâcon to Culoz, see Route 61.) EAVING Culoz we cross the Rhône, having on our right the canal of Savières, which connects the lake of Bourget with the Rhône. The railway skirts for a long distance the shore of the lake, the views over which are very fine. On the left is the Château de Chatillon, where Pope Celestin IV. was born. Across the lake is the range of hills called the "Dent du Chat," at the base of which is the Monastery of Haute Combe, in the Gothic chapel of which the Princes of Savoy are buried. The original convent was pillaged during the French revolution, and so badly injured as to require to be rebuilt, which was done in 1824 by Charles Felix, King of Sardinia. It is now occupied by Cistercian monks. Lamartine has made this lake the scene of some of the most touching incidents related in his "Raphael." After skirting the shore for a considerable distance, the line branches off to the town of AIX LES BAINS, (363 miles). (Hotels: Imperial, Venat, Poste); population, 4,000. This agreeable watering-place is at a short distance from the lake of Bourget. It is celebrated for its hot aluminous and sulphurous springs, the temperature of which ranges from 100° to 117° Fahr. The waters, under the name of Aqua Gratiana, were in repute with the ancients, and there still remain some ruins of a triumphal arch and of a temple of Diana, also the vestiges of some Roman baths. The scenery in the neighbourhood is picturesque, and many pleasant excursions may be made in various directions. Leaving Aix, and skirting for a time the shore of the lake, we reach CHAMBÉRY (373 miles). (Hotels: de France, le Petit Paris, de l'Europe); population, 20,000. This was formerly the capital of Savoy; it is beautifully situated in a rich vine-clad valley, between two ridges of hills. It is a dull and uninteresting town, but the scenery of the neighbourhood is exceedingly fine. It contains the ruins of an old castle, seven convents, a royal college, several hospitals, and a library of 16,000 volumes. [From Chambéry an excursion may be made to the Monastery of La Grande Chartreuse, about 15 miles distant in a direct line. Excursions are more frequently made to it from GRENOBLE, distant from Chambéry by railway about 39 miles. It stands 4,268 feet above the level of the sea, in a lonely and secluded position, surrounded by woods. It is a plain, irregular building, or collection of buildings. Visitors are not allowed to remain more than two days. The infirmary is now occupied by Sisters of Charity, and ladies staying at the convent are lodged here, while male guests sleep within the walls. Meals are taken by both sexes together in the dining-hall. The cells are very meagrely furnished. The chapel is a plain, uninteresting building. In the chapter-house are copies of the paintings, preserved in the Louvre, representing the life of St. Bruno, the founder, by Lesœur, together with portraits of the Generals of the Order, and a statue of St. Bruno in marble. The brethren are bound to preserve silence amongst themselves, and are only allowed to go beyond the precincts of the convent on Thursdays, on which day they are allowed to answer strangers who address them. The monk who attends to visitors within the convent has a dispensation from his vow of silence whilst so engaged. The chief revenues of the monks are derived from their cattle, and from the manufacture of the excellent liqueur which takes its name from this place. The Grande Chartreuse dates from 1084. There were formerly about 200 convents belonging to the order, among them the Charterhouse in London. GRENOBLE (Hotels: de l'Europe, Monnet, des Trois Dauphins) population, 46,484, is a fortified town situated on the Isère, near its confluence with the Drac and Romanche. These streams water a delightful valley, surrounded by high mountains. The cathedrai is not attractive externally, but contains an elegantly sculptured Gothic tabernacle, and a fine T 290 tomb of one of its former bishops, After passing Chambéry we proceed along a beautiful valley, leaving the Castle of Bâtie on the left, and, on the right, Mont Grenier, which rises to a height of 5,700 ft. A little further on we observe, on the left bank of the river Isére, the Chateau Bayard, where the famous knight of that name was born. which place contains some hand- From St. Michel, passengers are conveyed by "Fell's" Railway, by which railway carriages ascend and descend the mountain with perfect facility and safety. The railway does not interfere with the carriage-road. Persons desiring to proceed more slowly may procure excellent carriages at St. Michel. About 9 miles from the latter place and near Modane is the commencement of the great Tunnel under the Alps. When completed (probably in 1871) it will be 7 miles in length. Boring operations are carried on from both the French and Italian sides by means of engines worked by condensed air. Near MODANE is the magnificent Fort l'Essillon, or Bramans, standing on a rocky height, connected with the road by a bridge called Pont du Diable. It is about to be dismantled. The ascent of Mont Cenis comat LANSLEBOURG (448 miles), the road being carried up the side of the mountain by zigzags. mences We presently reach MONTMELIAN (383 miles). The castle, of which a mere fragment remains, was formerly the great stronghold of Savoy. Beyond Montmélian we obtain, in fine weather, a good view of Mont Blanc. Near St. Pierre d'Albigny, a few miles distant, is the ruined Chateau de Miolans, standing on a lofty rock. Previous to the annexation of Savoy, this castle had, for some time, been used as a state prison. At Aiguebelle in the valley of the Maurienne, we observe the Castle of La Charbonnière, where many of the counts of Savoy were born. Originally their seat was at ST. JEAN DE MAURIENNE (416 miles), the cathedral of Having gained the most elevated point of the road, we descend a little toward a plain called the Plain of Mount Cenis; and here we find the well-known Hospice originally founded by Charlemagne. Of the whole of the pass Mont Cenis itself is the least dreary part. Its hospice, its houses of refuge, each occupied by a Cantonnier, and the number of travellers, and waggons and carts loaded with merchandize, continually passing, take away all idea of desolation, notwithstanding the wildness of the scenery. |