their measure to fill up the basin of the lake.

In beauty of scenery it is excelled by Lucerne and Geneva. Although its shores have acquired no peculiar associations from having been the chosen residence of poets and philosophers -nevertheless the scenes in which its Swiss and Swabian confines abound are full of mingled beauty and sublimity, and are such as, even after a survey of the inland cantons, cannot fail to secure admirers. At sunset, the evening illumination is splendid-equal on many occasions, to that witnessed from Geneva, Lausanne, and the Jura mountains.

To the traveller who approaches Constance from the east, the view is strikingly beautiful; with the Alps on his left, and the vine-clad shores of Swabia on the right.

ROUTE 76.

SCHAFFHAUSEN TO

ZURICH.

36 miles; 1st class, 6.00 francs; 2nd, 415 francs; 3rd, 2.95 francs.

EAVING Schaffhausen, we proceed along the right bank of the Rhine to a point above the falls, where we cross the river by a fine stone bridge. Passing beneath the Castle of Laufen, through a tunnel, we obtain a hasty view of the falls on the right, before reaching DACHSEN (three miles). The railway presently turns away from the Rhine and traverses a rich extent of country to ADELFINGEN (seven miles), where it crosses the Rhine, and passes into the valley of the

Töss. WINTERTHUR (18 miles), (Hotels Adler, Wilder Man), population 6,600. This is a manufacturing town, principally engaged in cotton-printing and the weaving of muslins. Here is the junction of the Rorschach and St. Gall line with that of Romanshorn and Zürich. Leaving Winterthur we continue along the valley of the Toss, passing, on the right, the Dominican Convent, (now a factory) to which the Empress Agnes retired after the murder of her father. Her daughter-in-law, St. Elizabeth of Hungary, died here, a nun; the monument of the latter is in the church, which dates from 1469. Four miles further we see, on the left, the Castle of Kyburg, formerly in the possession of the Imperial House of Austria. Crossing the river Töss, we proceed along the valley of the Glatt, and reach WALLISELLEN (30 miles); we next pass through a long tunnel under the hill of Weid and reach

ZÜRICH (35 miles), (Hotels: Baur, Baur au Lac, Belle Vue), population (including suburbs), 45,000. It is situated at the north end of the lake that bears its name. It has been called the intellectual capital of Switzerland, and is undoubtedly the first in manufacturing importance. The busy part of the town abounds in mills and factories, while the other part contains many fine houses. The shores of the lake are covered with vineyards, corn-fields, and pleasant gardens, interspersed with country-houses and cottages. There are few important buildings to attract the attention of the tourist. The Arsenal contains a large collection of armour and weapons, ancient and modern. Here is a standard, taken from Charles the Bold, and a crossbow, said to have belonged to William Tell. The City Library

contains 80,000 volumes, besides portraits of all the burgomasters of Zürich, three letters of Lady Jane Grey, the Greek Bible of Zwingli, his portrait, and a bust of Lavater. Zwingli ministered in the church called the Gross Münster. His residence was No. 185 in the Grosse Stadt. Lavater was minister of the Church of St. Peter. He was shot by a French soldier, September 26, 1799, when the town was taken by the French under Masséna.

Besides Lavater, Gesner and Pestalozzi were natives of Zürich.

ROUTE 77.

ZURICH TO COIRE, AND THE SPLÜGEN PASS TO COMO.

To Coire, 814 miles; 1st class, 13.70 francs; 2nd, 890 francs; 3rd, 6.50 francs.

(Travellers who desire to see the fine scenery of the Lake of Zürich may go by boat to Rapperschwyl, at the upper end, and join the railway there. The railway does not approach the lake until Rapperschwyl is reached. Boats leave Zürich several times a day. Time occupied, 24 hours.)

EAVING Zürich, we proceed to Wallisellen (see Route 76), and, passing some unimportant places, reach RAPPERSCHWYL (19 miles), (Hotel: du Cygne), population 2,500. This is a picturesque town, on the borders of the lake, partially surrounded by the old walls, and containing the remains of a Castle (Der Grafenburg). In the neighbourhood, to the north-east, is a mountain called the Bachtel, 3,674 ft. high.

SCHMERIKON (27 miles), at the eastern end of the lake, near which, on the right, is the Castle of Grynau, on the Zinth. The next station is UZNACH (28 miles), (Hotel: Zum Linth-hof), population, 1,300. In the neighbourhood is a large cotton-mill, turned by a mountain stream. There are coal mines at Oberkirch, about a mile off. Passing Uznach, we see the snow-capped mountains at the upper end of the valley of Glarus, through which the Linth flows, and presently reach WESEN (39 miles), (Hotel: Zum Speer), situated amid delightful scenery near the lake of WALLENSTADT. The Speer may be ascended from Wesen in about 4 hours. A beautiful view presents itself from the summit. The railway traverses the southern shore of the lake, passing through ten tunnels. The lake is about twelve miles long, and three broad. On the north side are steep cliffs, some of them 3,000 ft. high, intersected by mountain torrents. The fall of Bayerbach is seen, on the opposite side of the lake, soon after leaving Wesen. Near MURG (44 miles) we see a large cotton factory, and behind it a mountain called Mürtschenstock, 7,270 ft. high. A cavern, or natural tunnel, pierces the summit of this mountain, and its appearance has been compared to a needle's eye. At the north-eastern end of the lake are the seven peaks of the Sieben Churfürsten, and below them the station of WALLENSTADT (51 miles), (Hotel: Aigle d'Or), population about 800. In the neighbourhood are rich iron-stone mines. Passing through the valley of the Seez, we enter that of the Rhine, and reach SARGANS (59 miles), where we join the line from St. Gall. Hence we proceed to RAGATZ (64 miles), (Hotels:

Hof Ragatz, de la Tamina), population, 600, situated near the entrance of the valley, or ravine, through which the Tamina flows to the Rhine. This place is much frequented for its hot springs. The water is conveyed to the hotels from the source in the gorge behind the town, in wooden pipes.

One of the most remarkable spots in all Switzerland is the GORGE OF PFEFFERS. It is reached by a good carriage road, 24 miles from the hotels. The hot springs rise in this gorge, and through it runs the impetuous Tamina.

The chasm is everywhere extremely narrow in relation to its height; in some places it cannot be more than 12 or 15 ft. wide, and its average width can scarcely be more than 20 or 30 ft., while its height may be 300 or 400. The walls of the chasm are scarcely ever vertical in their whole depth, but inclined one over the other, at a considerable angle. In some places the one wall overhangs the other so much that the sky above it is entirely excluded, and this for a considerable space, by the natural configuration of the parts; in others, the size of the upper fissure has been originally so small, that it has been entirely closed up by the accidental fall of rocks and rubbish from the heights above. On these accounts the whole chasm is very dark, giving one much more the feeling of being in a cave or mine, than by the natural banks of a river. The shelving direction of the walls of the chasm is sometimes the same at its bottom as at its top so that in looking down we can only see a bare rock, the stream being hid by the overlapping of one of its rocky sides. Altogether the place is very extraordinary, and forms perhaps the most remarkable

sight of its kind in Switzerland. The source of the hot-springs should be visited, at the end of the chasm.

From Ragatz we cross the Rhine by a covered wooden bridge aud reach MAYENFELD (68 miles), where we observe an ancient tower reputed to have been built by the Roman Emperor Constantius in the fourth century. There is a beautiful view up the valley of the Rhine. To the north-east rises the peak of the Falkniss. Crossing a torrent at LANDQUART (70 miles) we see the Convent of Pfeffers, situated at a short distance above the springs, and on the opposite side of the Rhine are the peaks of the Calanda, covered with snow. Passing ZIZERS (76 miles), near which is Molinara, the country seat of the Bishops of Coire, we reach COIRE (814 miles), (Hotels: Lukmanier, Capricorn or Steinbok), population, 7,560. This town, the capital of the Grisons, is situated in a fertile valley of the Ligne Caddée. It was called by the Romans Curia Rhetorum. The chief buildings are the Dom, or Church of St. Lucius, a fine Gothic structure, containing some curious old carvings and pictures, the Episcopal Palace and the Library. The church contains amongst its relics the bones of St. Lucius, an ancient British king, the reputed founder of the church of St. Peter in Cornhill.

Angelica Kauffman was a native of Coire.

Diligences twice every day over the Splügen Pass to Colico, on the Lake of Como, and daily over the Bernardin to Bellinzona.

The Pass of the Splügen was constructed by the Austrians in order to connect Lombardy with South Germany and Switzerland.

The distance from Coire to Co

lico, where the steamer from Como meets the diligence,is about ninetyone miles. The Via Mala, about eleven miles from Coire, is very commonly visited even by those who do not wish to make the journey to Como or Milan. At a short distance from Coire we cross the celebrated covered wooden bridge spanning the Rhine by a single arch of 200 feet. We soon afterwards reach the village of REICHENAU (Hotel: Adler), celebrated as the residence of Louis

Philippe. In the château near the hotel he sought refuge in 1794. From the château and the adjoining garden beautiful views may be enjoyed. We cross the two branches of the Rhine and ascend the Hinter Rhine along its left bank. Numerous remains of feudal castles are seen along the route. THUSIS (18 miles), (Hotel: Aigle d'Or), about eleven miles beyond Reichenau, is situated at the mouth of a gorge on the Heinzenberg, from which there is a delightful and extensive prospect. Crossing the impetuous torrent of the Nolla we enter the VIA MALA, one of the most stupendous gorges in Switzerland. The mountain ridge across the valley is rent from top to bottom, affording an outlet to the Rhine. The road is cut from the side of the precipice for about a mile; it then enters a tunnel bored through a spur of the mountain, 200 ft. long, 18 ft. wide, and 14 ft. high. The road on the other side is again cut from the precipice, parts of which rise perpendicularly to a fearful height about it, in some places 1600 ft., while the river rushes in a foaming torrent through the ravine below, and is crossed three times by bridges where the road would otherwise be impassable.

We

next reach ANDEER (27 miles), (Hotel des Bains), where we see

on the left the Castle of Bürenburg, celebrated in the struggles between the peasants of the Grisons and the nobility. Just beyond it the Aversa falls into the Rhine. Crossing the last-named river we arrive at the village of SPLÜGEN (38 miles). The road now divides; one goes westward by the Bernardin Pass, the other goes southward, which is the route we follow. The Splügen Pass, rising more than 2,000 feet above the village and 6,814 above the sea, leads to Chiavenna and the Lake of Como; that of Bernardin, 7,115 feet above the sea and 2,400 above Splügen, leads to Bellinzona and the Lakes of Maggiore and Lugano.

Crossing the Rhine, we follow the Splügen road for nearly five miles up a steep ascent, and reach the ridge that marks the boundary between Switzerland and Italy. We pass through a tunnel, and then by a zig-zag route, arrive at the highest point, 6,940 feet above the sea. From this point the descent immediately commences, and we presently reach the Italian Custom House, where luggage is examined. The old road was open to the greatest danger from avalanches, which were frequently the cause of great destruction of life and property. It is said that the French Marshal Macdonald, who crossed the pass in 1800, lost 100 of his men, and as many horses, by this means. Below the Custom-House our road passes through three great galleries in succession, the first being upwards of 700 feet long, the second, 640, the third, 1,530. Passing Pianazzo, we cross a small stream called the Madesimo, which a few yards below falls over the precipice, in a cascade 800 feet high. We proceed, in a zig-zag course, through other galleries,

vineyards. We have a fine view from the rock above the ancient Palazzo or castle. The Church of St. Laurence has a tall campanile surrounded by cloisters, two bonehouses, arranged somewhat like the chambers in the catacombs of Paris, and a curious old font in the Baptistery. Proceeding on our route we reach RIVA (82 miles), situated near the Lago Mezzola, in a singularly wild and desolate region, surrounded by rugged mountains with torrents coursing down their sides. The road leads over several wooden bridges and through galleries cut out of the rocks. COLICO (91 miles) is on

ROUTE 78.

BALE TO ZURICH, BY
OLTEN.

63 miles; first class, 10-75 francs; second, 7.55 francs; third, 5.40 francs.

EAVING Bale, we cross the valley of the Birs, and traverse the slopes of the Jura. Near Pratteln, on the right, we see the ruins of the Castle of Schauenburg; on the left, beyond the Rhine, rise the mountains of the Black Forest.