At the entrance are the tombs of Charles III. of Navarre, and his wife Leonora of Castile. The two alabaster statues are in a recumbent position, dressed in the royal robes, and crowned. The wainscoting of the choir is a superb specimen of carving in English oak, representing saints, prophets, and patriarchs. The Hôtel de Ville is a fine structure, with a curious mosaic pavement, and some good paintings and portraits of the kings of Navarre. A splendid aqueduct of entirely modern construction, but in the Roman style, conveys water from the hills of Francoa, nine miles distant, to the city. Pampeluna was taken in 778, by Charlemagne. It was afterwards the capital of the kingdom of Navarre. In 1808 it was taken possession of by the French, and retained by them till 1814. It was the last refuge of the king Joseph, during his retreat; and after a four months' blockade, the French were forced to capitulate. They retook it during the campaign of 1823. Tafalla (123 miles). Population, 5,215. This was formerly one of the most important cities of Navarre, and the ancient residence of its kings. The ruins of their palace are to be seen, surrounded by large gardens. The church contains some fine sculptures. The Hôtel de Ville is a building of modern construction. The railroad here crosses the plain, where the traveller sees the Spanish vines and olives, and by a delightful valley leads to the station of Olite (128) miles), population, 2,000, in a fertile plain, near the stream of Cidacos. This place formerly shared with Tafalla the favour of a royal residence. The Palace is now in ruins. Of the two churches, San Pedro and Santa Maria, the latter is the most remarkable,containing a portico with statues of the twelve apostles, and also a fine baptismal font. Castejon (181 miles). Here the line for Logroño, Miranda, and Bilbao turns off. Tudela (191) miles). Population, 9,150. This town is situated in a well-watered plain, surrounded by mountains. The streets are narrow, and have a wretched appearance, but the promenades are delightful. There is a summer promenade, and also one for the winter. The Plaza de Toros is an extensive open space behind the station. Here is a fine Cathedral, in the Gothic style. Its west front, with its superb doorway and rose window, also the high altar, and a fiue black marble monument in one of the side chapels, are especially worth notice. The carvings and tracery throughout are very fine. LAS CASETAS (230 miles). At this station the line joins that between Madrid and Saragossa. There is a change of train for travellers from Pampeluna to Madrid. SARAGOSSA (238 miles), (Hotels: de Europa, Las Cuatro Naciones, del Universo), population, 63,500. This ancient capital of the kings of Aragon, situated on the Ebro, is one of the most important cities in Spain. There are an academy of fine arts, university, and numerous manufactories. It is the residence of the Captain-general of Aragon, the seat of an archbishop. The greater part of the streets are narrow and irregular. Saragossa has several churches and colleges. The Cathedral of La Seo is situated in a square, which also contains the archie piscopal palace. Its front is without ornament, but the modern portal is decorated with Corinthian columns, and three statues, representing our Saviour, St. Peter, and St. Paul. A lofty tower, which serves as a belfry, has a large number of allegorical statues. The interior is capacious, but short in comparison with its width. Here is a splendid tomb, containing the ashes of one of the first Inquisitors. The Cathedral el Pilar (so called from the pillar on which the Virgin descended from heaven) may be termed the great lion of the place. It contains the celebrated sanctuary, with the highly venerated statue of the Virgin, on a jasper pedestal, said to have been placed there by St. James. Pilgrims from all parts of Spain come to worship at this shrine. There are also the churches of San Felipe, with a beautiful portico; San Pedro, with its Moorish tower; and that of Las Santas Masas, a subterranean church, where are the tombs of the first Christian martyrs of Saragossa. The most curious of all the monuments of this interesting city, is the leaning tower, called the Torre Nueva. It stands quite by itself. Although bearing the name of the New Tower, it was erected as far back as 1503-4. It is built entirely of brick, and is 10 feet out of the perpendicular. There are some charming promenades. The siege of Saragossa, in 1808, gave occasion for the brave exploits of the celebrated "Maid of Saragossa." The ancient city was built by the Emperor Augustus, and named after himself, Cesarea Augusta, which has been corrupted into Cesaragosta, and ultimately Saragossa. The canal, and the crossing of two main lines of railway, have given to this city an increased activity and importance in modern times. Returning to Las Casetas Junction, we proceed to Calatayud (297 miles), population, 11,037. This ancient Moorish town has a fine Castle, and a Dominican Convent, of imposing appearance. The church of Santa Maria has a beautiful portal in the cinquecento style. Here are also a Theatre, a Plaza de Toros, and some beautiful promenades. At Alhama (316 miles), (Hotel: El Establecimiento), are some mineral springs of great repute in cases of gout, rheumatism, &c. Medinaceli (350 miles), is picturesquely placed at the foot of a steep hill. It gives the title of duke to the family of La Cerda, who, according to lineal descent, are the rightful heirs to the throne of Spain. Sigüenza (3663 miles), population, 5,000, is situated in a fertile, but ill cultivated district. The Gothic Cathedral, restored in the twelfth century, and of unknown antiquity, is beautifully adorned with bas-reliefs and sculptures. Passing some unimportant places, we reach GUADALAJARA, (425 miles), (Hotel: de la Diligencia), population, 6,650. The most remarkable building is the Palace of the Dukes de l'Infantado, presenting a strange mixture of Gothic and Moorish styles. This large palace is in a deplorable state of dilapidation. The convent of San Francisco contains some rich specimens of sculptured monuments. The church of San Nicolas, which overlooks the city, those of San Gines, San Miguel, and San Esteban, the Panteon, and the Plaza de Santa Maria, deserve a visit. We presently reach ALCALA ᎠᎬ HENARES (433 miles), population, 8,745. This city was formerly of great importance, but it now presents a sad and impoverished appearance. It is surrounded by walls in ruins. The ancient University is now a college, its Chapel contains the magnificent marble monument of Cardinal Ximenes. It is surrounded by a splendid grille. The Episcopal Palace is deserving of notice. Alcala was the birthplace of Cervantes, who was baptized in the church of Santa Maria Mayor. It was in this city, formerly possessing celebrated printing presses, that Cardinal Ximenes had the celebrated Polyglot Bible printed. VICALVARO (438 miles). It was in the plain of Vicalvaro, in the month of July 1854, that Marshal O'Donnell put himself at the head of several regiments, and attacked the royal troops, who were powerless to subdue this revolt. Espartero joined O'Donnell, the ministry of San Luis was overthrown, and the leader of the rebellion became Prime Minister. Madrid is paved with stone procured from this place. Passing some unimportant places, we reach MADRID. See preceding Route. ROUTE 140. MADRID TO TOLEDO. 56 miles; 1st class, 39.75 reals; 2nd, 19.00 reals. EAVING Madrid, we reach Getafe (9 miles), population 3,500. The Church contains some good paintings and a handsome retable. At Pinto (13 miles) are the ruins of a castle in which Philip II. imprisoned the Princess of Eboli. At Valdemoro (17 miles) is the training college for candidates for the Guardias Civil. There are some saline springs in the neighbourhood of Ciempozuelos (20 miles). ARANJUEZ (30 miles), (Hotels: del Norte, del Infante), population 3,800. This place, formerly a royal summer residence, is situated near the confluence of the Tagus and Jarama. The palace contains nothing worthy of particular mention. Here are some fine elms imported from England by Philip II. The girth of one of them is upwards of 90 ft. The Casa del Labrador is beautifully furnished, and the walls of the back-staircase are covered with paintings illustrative of the costume and manners of the time of Charles 1. The principal saloon is also elaborately painted. At Castillejo (40 miles) the line for Toledo leaves the main line for Alicante and Valencia. TOLEDO (56 miles), (Hotels: de Lino, de Huespedes), population 18,000. Of all excursions in the environs of Madrid, that to Toledo will be found the most interesting. This city has an important place in the pages of history. Under the Goths it was the capital of Spain, and the seat of 17 councils; under the Moors it was the seat of a small kingdom; it was conquered by Alphonso VI., King of Castille and Leon, and became the capital of Castille, and afterwards of all Spain. When in the height of its splendour, the city contained 200,000 inhabitants. It is the most curious of all the cities of old Spain. Toledo is the seat of an archbishop, and the chief town of a province. It is built on a declivity, at the foot of which the Tagus describes a long curve, flowing between the rocks, and $ S passing under two bridges. The walls give it the appearance of an old fortress. The principal archæological curiosities are as follows: The Puerta del Sol, a beautiful gate, of Moorish construction, the palaces, and, above all the rest, the Alcazar, the towers of which overlook the city. It was the residence of the kings, and, in spite of the degradations to which it has been forced to submit, we can still judge of its former beauty. THE CATHEDRAL was founded by St. Eugene, apostle of Toledo. The Moors turned it into a mosque; the King, Ferdinand the Catholic, in 1227, began the building of the present church. The general plan is that of five parallel naves, the height of which diminishes towards the sides. The cathedral has eight gates, of marvellous workmanship, of Gothic sculpture, with the exception of one, where the bad taste has been displayed of adding a Greek portal. There is a three-storied tower, rising to the height of 325 ft. In the interior are 88 pillars, formed by clusters of small columns. The choir contains a fine specimen of carved wood-work. The chapels are numerous, and are richly decorated with paintings and monuments. The two principal are the Capilla Mayor and the Mozarabe; in the latter chapel there are some fine fres coes. The cathedral possesses treasures of immense value. The sacristy contains numerous vestments covered with precious stones, and gold and silver plate of enormous value. There are 750 windows in the Cathedral, and when the sun streams through the richly-painted glass it presents a scene of unequalled splen dour. Some years since the doors of this vast treasure-house were unhesitatingly thrown open to tourists, but since the ope ning of the railway, the archbishop, alarmed, doubtless, at the increased number of unknown visitors, has caused the chapels containing all this treasure to be closed, and it is exceedingly difficult to get permission to view them. The cloisters have been sadly mutilated by the French. Here are some monuments, and the Library of the Chapter, which contains some curious old manuscripts and very valuable illuminated missals. The most frequented promenade in Toledo is in the Plaza of the Zocodover. This place has from very early times been celebrated for its cutlery, especially for the manufacture of sword-blades. This is still a fruitful source of industry, though the rivalry of Sheffield and other places has deprived it of that ancient prestige which once secured it almost a monopoly amongst the military powers of southern and western Europe. Small arms for the Spanish army are still made at the Fabrica de Armas, which is shown to visitors. It is said that the water and the sand of the Tagus are essential for the proper tempering of the swords. Mr. Borrow's testimony as to the comparative merits of the famous Toledan blades of olden date and those that are now fabricated, appears to contradict the opinion commonly entertained on the subject. He inquired of the workmen whether they could manufacture weapons of equal value to those of former days, and whether the secret had been lost. "Ca!" said they, "the swords of Toledo were never so good as those which we are daily making. It is ridiculous enough to see strangers coming here to purchase old swords, the greater part of which are mere rubbish, and never made at Toledo; yet for such they will give a large price, whilst they would grudge two dollars for this jewel, which was made but yesterday," thereupon putting into my hand a middle-sized rapier. "Your wor"said they, ship,' 66 seems to have a strong arm, prove its temper against the stone wall-thrust boldly, and fear not. I have a strong arm, and dashed the point with my utmost force against the solid granite; my arm was numbed to the shoulder from the violence of the concussion, and continued so for nearly a week, but the sword appeared not to be at all blunted, or to have suffered in any respect. ROUTE 141. MADRID TO ALICANTE. 278 miles; 1st class, 200.25 reals; 2nd, 155.25 reals; 3rd, 95.25 reals. (For description of route as far as Castillejo, see preceding Route.) LCAZAR de San Juan (92 miles), population 7,540. Here is the branch-line to Andalusia, and to Ciudad Reale. This is one of the ancient cities of Spain. It has successively been in the possession of the Romans, the Goths, and the Arabs. Later, it was besieged by the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem. At a distance of 15 miles from Alcazar is the village of Toboso, -a name familiar to all readers of Don Quixote, in connection with the erratic knight's lady-love, Dulcinea del Toboso. Alcazar is by some supposed to be the birth-place of Cervantes, but this is disputed. Passing some places of no interest, we reach ALBACETE (174) miles), (Hotels: Parador de Diligencias, de San Juan), population 15,150. Here are some small cutlery works, the principal articles of their manufacture being swordblades and daggers, for the most part highly ornamented. The principal buildings are the parish church, the Hôtel de Ville, the Palace of Justice, the Theatre (formerly a monastery). At CHINCHILLA (186 miles) the line to Cartagena branches off to the right. Almansa (2333 miles), population 8,900. This place is tolerably well built, with wide and straight streets, but not paved. An ancient castle overlooks the town. In the neighbourhood is erected an obelisk, in commemoration of a battle between the English and French, on April 25, 1707. The French being commanded by an Englishman, a natural son of James II., and the English by a Frenchman. The victory was gained by the French. The inscription on the monument is in Latin and Spanish. At La Encina (245 miles) the line to Valencia turns off to the left. At Villena we see an old castle on the summit of a hill, and an old Moorish Alcazar, in ruins, at Elda. Passing through a very fertile country, we reach ALICANTE (278 miles), (Hotels: Fonda del Vapor, Fonda de Bosio), population 31,500. This, the port of Madrid, is frequented by the ships of all nations. There is direct communication by steam between Alicante and all the Me |