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lower part of the walls is mosaic, disposed in fantastic knots and festoons. The porch on the right hand opens into an octagon vault, under the Emperor's palace, and forms a perfect whispering-gallery.

Ön the south side of the colonnade is a circular room with a fountain in the middle. The form of the hall, the elegance of its cupola, and the exquisite manner in which the stucco is designed and painted, exceed description. Everything inspires the most pleasing ideas; yet in this retreat it is said Abuabdulah assembled the Abencerrages, and caused their heads to be struck off into the fountains, in token whereof red stains on the central marble fountain are still pointed out to the romantic. Opposite to the Hall of the Abencerrages is the little myrtle garden of Lindaraxa, leading to the apartments of Charles V., around which are frequent inscriptions of the Emperor's favourite motto, Plus Outre. This leads to the Tocador-de-laReina, or the dressing-room of the Sultana. It is a small square cabinet in an open gallery, into which perfumes ascended through perforated tiles, from a furnace below. The Emperor caused this pretty room to be painted with representations of his wars, and a variety of grotesque subjects.

There are numerous other apartments, including the Hall of Ambassadors, which contains the mottoes of all the kings of Granada, and is magnificently decorated; and the Audience Hall, the interior of which is inlaid with mosaics of various colours, disposed in knots, stars, and other figures. The walls are 15 ft. thick.

The Alhambra was commenced by Aben Alhamar, the founder of Granada, in 1248, and its prin

cipal additions and embellishments were the works of YouzefAben-el-Hedjadj, the seventh king of Granada, who ascended the throne in 1333.

The restorations of the Alhambra have been admirably carried on by Señor Contreras, since 1862, when he was commissioned by the Ex-Queen Isabella to repair the palace. The Señor's studio will well repay a visit.

The royal country-house of the Generalife is situated higher on the hill than the palace, from which it is separated by a small ravine and by the lines of the fortifications. Both the Alhambra and the Generalife overhang the deep and narrow valley of the Darro, which precipitates itself from the Sierra Nevada and falls into the Genil, not far from the city.

The Generalife is of small dimensions, and its chief attractions are the Hall of the Princes, the Hall of the Portraits, and the hall which was formerly a private mosque, but has been converted into a Christian chapel.

A private door on the highest terrace of the Generalife, leads to a spot on the summit of the hill, called the Silla del Rey Moro, or chair of the Moorish king, from which there is a splendid view of the surrounding landscape.

The Cathedral is a splendid but irregular building. It is profusely ornamented with jasper and marble, and is surmounted by a dome supported by twelve superb columns, in front of which are statues of the twelve Apostles in gilded bronze. The adjoining chapel contains some of the best pictures and statues by the Spanish artist Alonzo-Cano, and his pupil Pedro-de-Mena; and a Holy Family by Murillo; and among its numerous monuments, those of Ferdinand and Isabella.

The Capilla-de-los-Reyes-Catolicos communicates with the cathedral, but is under a separate roof. It is of Gothic architecture and remarkable for the boldness of its arch, which supports the roof. It contains the marble tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, whose remains are in the vault underneath, together with those of their daughter Juana and her husband Philip I.

Ferdinand's sword is shown, also the royal standards used at the conquest, and a splendid vestment worked by Isabella for Cardinal Mendoza.

The Church of San Geronimo, belonging to the ancient convent of the Hieronymites, is a noble piece of architecture. It contains the tomb of the Great Captain, Gonsalvo of Cordova, by whom it was founded. Two kneeling statues of Gonsalvo and his wife are placed one on each side of the high altar.

Among other objects of interest are the palace of the Chancilleria, the Episcopal Palace, and the Alcaiseria, the latter an ancient Moorish bazaar, containing about 200 shops, and still applied to its original use; a spacious theatre built by General Sebastiani during the occupation of the city by the French army, and an amphitheatre.

The principal Plazas or squares, are the Plaza de la Constitucion, 400 ft. by 200 ft., embellished by an elegant jasper fountain; the Plaza Mayor, and the Plaza del Triunfo, the last named being the scene of the final victory gained by the Christians over the Moors, to commemorate which, a large monument of white marble stands in the centre of the square. Opposite to the façade of the theatre, a monument has been raised to the memory of the heroic lady

Doña Mariana Pineda, and the other martyrs of liberty in 1831.

The Vega or plain, upon which the city is situated, contains within its circuit not less than fifty-two towns; and in its centre appears the Soto de Roma, a tract belonging to the Duke of Wellington, which was granted to the first Duke and his successors in acknowledgment of his services, at the conclusion of the Peninsular War.

ROUTE 147.

VALENCIA TO BARCELONA, BY TARRAGONA. To Tarragona, 172 miles; 1st class, 108 r. 90 s.; 2nd, 69 r. 58 s.; 3rd, 51 r. 42 s.

M

URVIEDRO (18 miles), population 7,000, stands on the site of the ancient Roman town of Saguntum, of which many remains have been discovered. Crossing the Palencia we skirt a mountain range, beneath which stretches a plain covered with cornfields, olíveyards, and vineyards. Nules (32 miles), a fortified town of 4,000 inhabitants, is celebrated for its mineral waters. Passing several other places we reach CASTELLON DE LA PLANA (43 miles), (Hotel: de España), population 20,000. This is the the celebrated birthplace of painter, Francisco Ribalta. Some of his works are to be seen in the church of La Sangre, and in the Casa Capitular, in the Plaza de la Constitucion. The Torre de las

Campanas is an octagonal belfry, 260 ft. high. There are some good paintings in the several convents. Benicarlo (88 miles), population 6,000, is a fortified town, with a small port. The

district is rich in vineyards, and the chief business of the place is the production of a strong red wine, which is imported to Bourdeaux, and used to strengthen the poorer kinds of claret for the English and American markets. Vinaroz (91 miles), population 10,500, is famous for its fisheries of sturgeon and lampreys. TORTOSA (120 miles), population 22,000, is a fortified town, situated on the Ebro. The Cathedral is ornamented with fine marbles and bas-reliefs. The chapel of the Santa Cinta contains the girdle said to have been brought down from heaven in 1178 by the Virgin herself, and delivered to a priest. It is said that it works miracles in the cure of diseases. The Castle is in ruins. The view from the battlements is very fine. Passing some unimportant places, we reach

TARRAGONA (172 miles), (Hotel: Europa), population 19,500. This was a great city in the time of the Romans. It stands on a hill above the Francoli, and is surrounded by a spacious and richly-cultivated plain. The handsome Gothic Cathedral was erected in the eleventh century. Its façade is adorned with numerous reliefs and statues. The interior is plain but imposing. There are some beautiful painted windows; the Silleria of the choir is finely carved in wood; the cloisters are worth a visit. The Plaza de la Constitucion occupies the site of a Roman circus. Amongst other remains are those of the Capitol, the forum, the palace of Augustus, and the aqueduct.

From Tarragona to Barcelona, 634 miles; 1st class, 44 r. 56 c.; 2nd, 33 r. 13 c.; 3rd, 21 r. 24 c.

Near Torre de Burra (8 miles) we observe a very fine Roman triumphal arch. Passing through a beautiful country we reach MAR

TORELL (45 miles), population 4,900. The chief object of interest here is the fine Roman bridge called the Puente del Diabolo, with a triumphal arch at one end.

BARCELONA (63) miles), (Hotels: del Oriente, de las Cuatro Naciones, Peninsulares), population 225,000. This, the most important manufacturing city in Spain, is beautifully situated on the Mediterranean, in the midst of a fertile district. It is walled, and has a citadel, which, however, is effectually commanded by the fortress of Montjoi on the south-west. It is divided into two parts by the Rambla (river-bed), which is a beautiful promenade. The streets of the old town are narrow and ill paved, but those of the new town are more spacious and regular, while most of the houses are of hewn stone and of an imposing appearance. The squares are numerous, but, for the most part, small and irregular. The largest of them, the Plaza del Palacio, is very spacious and elegant, having on one side the governor's palace, on the opposite side the exchange, on the south the sea-gate and the custom-house, and on the north a row of good houses. In the centre stands a beautiful marble fountain. The houses are four and five stories high, having large windows with balconies. Many of them have their fronts adorned with paintings in fresco; and several of the public buildings are remarkable, both on account of their external beauty and the curiosities which they contain. The Cathedral, which is about 160 ft. long and 62 ft. broad, has a magnificent appearance. Twelve Gothic pillars separate the nave and aisles;: and a large octagonal dome, of Gothic architecture, with eight galleries, stands in the middle of the space between the choir and

the great door. The sanctuary, which stands over a subterranean chapel containing the relics of St. Eulalia, is formed by 10 pillars arranged in a semicircle, and enclosing the great altar, which is in the Gothic style, and of exquisite workmanship. The convent of La Merci has a large church, with a Doric portal, and a fine front composed of two stories of Corinthian and Ionic architecture. Its cloister, which is 60 ft. square, is beautifully executed; and the portico, of 16 arcades, which surrounds it, is supported by 20 Doric columns of marble. Above the portico is a spacious gallery, which has, on the outside, 32 arcades, on Ionic columns of marble, ornamented with a balustrade of grey marble. The convent of San Francisco has a large and handsome Gothic church, and a cloister adorned with paintings. The parish church of Santa Maria del Mar, built in the fifteenth century, is the finest in Barcelona. The principal altar is a rich assemblage of white, black, and mixed marble. The Palacio de la Disputacion, now the Audiencia, where the States of Catalonia assembled, is one of the handsomest edifices in the city, and contains the archives and charters of the crown of Aragon. palace of the Counts of Barcelona and the Kings of Aragon, distinguished by the noble simplicity of its architecture, is now occupied by a nunnery and an academy of medicine. The Exchange is a rectangular building, 230 ft. long and 77 ft. wide, and has a noble and majestic appearance. Of other modern buildings, the principal are the custom-house, the theatre, and the prison.

The

Barcelona possesses numerous charitable and benevolent institutions, and among literary insti

tutions may be mentioned four public libraries and two museums, an Academy of Belles Lettres and a Royal Academy of Arts and Sciences.

Barcelona is said to have been founded by the Carthaginians, who called it Barcino, after their general Hamilcar Barca.

ROUTE 148.

BARCELONA TO MADRID.

441 miles; 1st class, 311 r. 40 c.; 2nd, 237 r. 23 c.; 3rd, 160 r. 5 e.

HE first place of importance after leaving Barcelona is Sabadell (13}

miles), a town of 15,000 inhabitants, styled the "Manchester of Catalonia," from its extensive manufactures of cotton and wool. Tarrasa (20 miles) has numerous cloth manufactories.

Manresa (40 miles), population 13,340, has manufactures of cloth and cotton goods, and several distilleries. Passing several places of no importance, we reach LERIDA (113 miles), (Hotel: San Luis), population 19,626, situated on the Segre. The Old Cathedral, dating from the 13th century, is a magnificent specimen of Byzantine Gothic architecture. It was converted into a fortress by the French in 1707, and it has not since been used for religious services. The New Cathedral, built in the reign of Charles III. is a Corinthian structure. The church of San Lorenzo has some good tracery. The church of San Juan is a fine building. Passing several places of no note we reach SARAGOSSA (228 miles). For a description of this city, and of the remainder of the journey to Madrid,

see Route 139.

ROUTE 149.

BARCELONA TO GERONA. 65 miles; 1st class, 44r; 2nd, 35 r. 20 c.; 3rd, 24 r. 20 c.

HERE are two routes, one by the coast, the other inland. By the former we pass Mataro (17 miles), a busy town of 17,500 inhabitants, in the neighbourhood of which are some much-frequented mineral springs; and Arenys (23 miles), a town of 5,000 inhabitants, possessing dockyards, manufactories of lace, linen and soap, and a training school for the merchant service; in the neighbourhood of this place also there are mineral springs which are held in great estimation. By the latter route the most important place passed is Granollers (18 miles), population 4,500, a manufacturing town. The coastroute is much the more agreeable of the two.

GERONA (65 miles), (Hotels : Casa de Posta, de la Estrella), population 14,615. This is an ancient Moorish city. The Cathedral was originally founded by Charlemagne in 786, and subsequently rebuilt in the 11th century. Considerable additions were made in the 14th, 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. The altar and retable are of silver, and there are some paintings and enamels. The nave is constructed with a single vault, its width is 71 feet.

The Church of San Pedro and the Collegiate Church of San Feliu are interesting structures.

The railway to Perpignan is not yet wholly completed. Trains run as far as Port Vendres, 18 miles south of Perpignan. The

distance from Gerona to Perpignan is 48 miles, fare 64 reals. Going by diligence we fortified town of FIGUERAS (20) the strongly pass miles), population 7,400. The Castillo de San Fernando contains 9 magazines, and barracks for 20,000 men and 500 horses. We pass the frontier of France at Perthus (27 miles). The country is beautiful, and the mountains are covered with cork-trees as we approach Boulou (41 miles). On the right is the fort of Bellegarde, built under Louis XIV. Crossing the Canterane we presently reach

PERPIGNAN (48 miles), (Hotels: Grand, de l'Europe, des Ambassadeurs, Petit Paris), population 25,264. It is situated on the right bank of the Tet, in the plain of Roussillon. The vineyards are numerous, and here the celebrated wine of the name is produced. There is a magnificent view from the Citadel. The Cathedral was founded in 1324. It possesses no features of interest. The remains of an older cathedral, called St. Jean le Vieux, are close by. The Loge, or Bourse (in Spanish Lonja), has a curious Moorish and Gothic cloister, and a highly decorated façade. The Promenades in the environs are delightful.

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