ROUTE 15. GLASGOW TO AYR AND THE LAND OF BURNS. 40 miles; first class, 6s. 8d.; second, 5s.; third, 3s. 3d. E proceed to DALRY, (22 miles) as by Route 14, and thence to KILWINNING, about 4 miles distant (Hotel: Eglinton Arms), a village which derives its name from a saint called Winning, who in the eighth century dwelt here in a cell, called in the Gaelic tongue Kil. In 1107 an abbey was founded in honour of this saint by Hugh de Moreville, the ruins of which are still to be seen. It was built by a company of Freemasons from the continent, and they established here the first Masonic Lodge in Scotland. About a mile distant is EGLINTON CASTLE, the seat of the Earls of Eglinton, where, in 1839, a tournament was held after the fashion of the days of chivalry. The present Emperor of the French took part in it as one of the knights. (There is a railway from Kilwinning to Ardrossan, on the sea coast, a town which owes its prosperity to the coal-mines and ironworks in the neighbourhood.) In clear weather we can see, on the right hand, after leaving Kilwinning, the lofty mountains in the Isle of Arran at a distance of about 25 miles. IRVINE (29 miles). (Hotels: King's Arms, Wheatsheaf.) Here Burns resided for a short time, carrying on the business of a flaxdresser. Here were born the poet Montgomery and Galt the novelist. TROON (34 miles) (Hotels: Portland, Commercial) is a small town much frequented in the bathing season. Three miles on the right is Dundonald Castle, a ruin where Robert II. of Scotland resided before he came to the throne; a few miles farther on the left is Fullarton Castle, the seat of the Duke of Portland. Passing Monkton (36 miles), and Prestwick, near which are the ruins of Kingswell, a monastery endowed by Robert Bruce, we reach AYR (40 miles). (Hotels: King's Arms, Ayr Arms, Commercial.) This ancient town, bearing so many associations with the memory of Burns, lies on a sandy plain close to the sea. On leaving the railway station, the tourist sees before him the memorable "Twa Brigs." The New Brig, greatly widened since Burns's time, is that by which we pass direct into the town. The Auld Brig is about 100 yards higher up, and is only used as a foot-path. The following description is given of it by the poet: "Auld Brig appeared o' ancient Pictish race The very wrinkles Gothic in his face; He seemed as he wi' Time had warstled lang. Yet, toughly doure, he baide an unco bang." And he gives an account of his visit to it: "A simple bard, Unknown and poor, simplicity's reward, At night, within the ancient burgh of Ayr, By whim inspired, or haply pressed wi' care, He left his bed, and took his wayward route, And down by Simpson's wheeled the left about: The drowsy dungeon clock had numbered two, And Wallace tower had sworn the fact was true; The tide-swollen Firth, wi' sullen sounding roar, Through the still night dashed hoarse along the shore. E All else was hushed as Nature's closed e'e; The silent moon shone high o'er tower and tree; The chilly frost, beneath the silver beam, Crept, gently crusting, o'er the glittering stream." The "Dungeon clock" is removed, but " Simpson's" is still to be seen: it is a public-house at the end of the bridge furthest from the town. Wallace tower has been entirely rebuilt since the date of the poem which alludes to it. The fort, situated between the town and the sea, was built by Oliver Cromwell. KIRK ALLOWAY, the poet's birthplace, is about 3 miles south of Ayr. The cottage stands on the right-hand side of the road, a quarter of a mile before reaching ALLOWAY-KIRK and the Brig o' Doon. It contains only two rooms, and is thatched and whitewashed like a cabin of the humblest order. Over the door is a portrait of Burns, beneath which 18 the following inscription: "Robert Burns, the Ayrshire Poet, was born under this roof, the 25 Jan. A.D. 1759. Died A.D. 1796, aged 37 years." The poet was born in what is now the kitchen, in a recess which is still shown to tourists. The Cottage stands on a pleasant plain, and about a quarter of a mile beyond on the left is the Monument erected to the poet's memory-a dome surmounted with a lyre and significant wine-cupand supported on Corinthian pillars. On the opposite side of the road is the old Kirk of Alloway; beyond, far to the right, is heard the sea, while the airy range of the Carrick hills stretches across, closing the landscape. At their feet a mass of trees masks the course of the Doon; but before you reach any of these objects you pass on the left the large open field in which was held the Burns' festival on the 6th of August, 1844, the number of persons present at which was 80,000. Alloway Kirk is roofless and is "just such a plain simple ruin as one sees in a hundred places in Ireland. One of the first objects that arrests the attention is the bell in the little belfry, with a rope hung outside. There are plenty of open windows where Tam O'Shanter could take a full view of the unsonsie dancing party; and the winnock bunker in the east,' a small window 'where sat auld Nick in shape of beast,' as fiddler, is conspicuous enough. The interior of the little kirk is divided by a wall. The western division is the burialplace of the Cathcarts. The other end, where the witch-dance met Tam's astonished eyes, is full of briars and nettles.' Among the tombs in the kirk-yard is that of the poet's father, just before you enter by the stile, with this inscription: "O ye whose cheek the tear of pity stains, Draw near with pious reverence, and attend! Here lie the loving husband's dear remains, The tender father, and the generous friend. The pitying heart that felt for human by a cupola of stained glass. This apartment contains a copy of Nasmyth's picture of the poet, and on a table in the centre are the Bible and Testament given by Burns to his Mary at their last parting near Montgomerie Castle."The two volumes are displayed at the beginning of each, where Burns has placed a masonic sign, and written his name, now nearly obliterated, adding the two texts, Leviticus xix. 12, Matthew v. 33, which are Ye shall not swear by my name falsely; I am the Lord;' and "Thou shalt not forswear thyself, but shalt perform unto the Lord thine oaths.' These precious volumes were known to be in the possession of the sister of Burns' 'Mary' in America; and a society of young men, ardent admirers of Burns, resolved to regain them if possible. This, after considerable trouble and expense, they finally effected, and here they are, objects certainly of the deepest interest."-Howitt. In a separate building in the same garden stands the celebrated group by Thom, of Tam and Souter Johnny. The group was exhibited some years ago in London and the principal cities of the United Kingdom. A short distance from the monument, and a little distance above the new bridge, is the Brig o' Doon, where Tam O'Shanter's mare, pursued by the witches whose orgies Tam had so rashly interrupted in Alloway Kirk, "Brought off her master haill, The present road from Ayr to Alloway Kirk is not the one which Tam is represented to have followed after he left the ale-house at Ayr. Since the poem was written the road has been straightened, and some of the localities are now at a little distance to the right of the present route. cairn, Where hunters found the murdered bairn; And near the thorn aboon the well Where Mungo's mither hanged hersel." Four miles from Alloway is Mount Oliphant, a farm where Burns resided with his father between his sixth and twelfth years. From hence he removed to Lochlea, near Tarbolton, a few miles to the south-east. Here he remained to the age of twenty-four, and it was during this interval that he composed several of his poems; "John Barleycorn;" "Cornrigs are bonnie;" "Winter, a dirge;" "The Death of poor Mailie;" "Now Whistling Winds," &c. Close to Tarbolton lies Montgomerie Castle, where the poet used to visit "Highland Mary." Here, too, as he mentions in the poem that bears her name, he saw her for the last time; she went to visit her friends in the Western Highlands, and died on her journey back. Writing of this last parting the poet tells us "How sweetly bloom'd the gay green birk, How rich the hawthorn's blossom, 1 As, underneath their fragrant shade, I clasp'd her to my bosom !" The thorn tree, called "Highland Mary's Thorn," under which the meeting took place is living still. Four miles from Tarbolton is the farm of Mossgiel (Route 14.) Throughout this route the stupendous rock called Ailsa Craig is seen on the right, towering out of the ocean, at a distance of 10 miles from the shore. reach FALKIRK (23) miles) (Hotel: Red Lion)-famous for its vestiges of antiquity and the battles which have been fought in the neighbourhood. The Hill of Falkirk, behind the town, is remarkable for the extensive views it commands over the surrounding country. This hill was the position to which William Wallace, with his division of the Scotch army, retired on the eve of the battle of Falkirk, fought between the English and Scots in 1298. A stone upon Wallace's Ridge, called "Wal bearing the following inscription: "Mente manuque potens, et Valle fidus Achates, Conditur hic Gramus, bello interfectus ab Anglis. xxii Julii anno 1298. Here lies Sir John the Grame, baith wight and wis Ane of the chiefs who rescuit Scotland thrice; Ane better knight not to the world was lent, Nor was good Grame of truth and hardiment." The Carron Iron Works, among the most extensive in Europe, |