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fluence of the May Water and the Earn, and observe, on the left, Dupplin Castle, the residence of the Earl of Kinnoull. Beyond Forgandenny (65 miles), we enter a tunnel 14 mile long, cut through the Hill of Moncrieffe, and, on emerging, have a beautiful view of the approach to PERTH (69 miles), (Hotels: Royal George, Salutation, Star), situated on the right bank of the river Tay, with a population of about 27,000. On the north and south of the plain surrounding the town, are two tracts of meadow land of considerable extent, called respectively the North and South Inch, connected by the old bridge of ten arches, which crosses the Tay between them. Perth was considered the capital of Scotland until the reign of James I., who was assassinated here. It is supposed to have been originally built by the Romans under Agricola. The principal buildings and public monuments are:-the County Hall, built on the site of Gowrie House, where the conspirators who devised the "Gowrie Plot" assembled; the building erected in 1823, in honour of Mr. Marshall, the then Provost of Perth, and containing, on the ground floor, the Public Library, and above it, the Museum of the Literary and Antiquarian Society; the Academy; the Free-Masons' Hall, &c. The Queen inaugurated, in 1864, the statue erected in memory of the late Prince Consort. The suburbs of Perth afford many agreeable excursions. The views from Moncrieffe Hill, on the right bank of the Tay, and Kinnoull Hill, on the left bank, are particularly fine. Visits may be conveniently made to Dupplin Castle, the Bridge of Earn, Pitcaithly Wells, and the Palace of Scone, the seat of Lord Mansfield (24 miles), built on the site of the ancient

palace of the Kings of Scotland, and where are preserved, amongst other curiosities, the bed of James VI. (James I. of England), another bed, covered with red velvet, reputed to have been embroidered by Mary, Queen of Scots, while confined in Loch Leven Castle, the Beauvais tapestry, and several valuable pictures, &c. The great gallery, about 150 ft. long, occupies the site of the hall where the sovereigns were crowned, seated on the stone brought from Dunstaffnage, and now in Westminster Abbey.

ROUTE 23.

PERTH TO INVERNESS. 144 miles. Fares, 1st class, 24s.; 2nd class, 18s.; 3rd class, 12s.

T a distance of 2 miles, near the confluence of the Almond and the Tay, we leave, on the left, the palace of Scone, and, crossing the road that leads to Dunkeld, see on the opposite side of the river Oliver Castle. Passing Stanley Junction (74 miles) we reach DUNKELD (15 miles), (Hotels: Athol, Birnam), a town of about 1500 inhabitants, situated on the left bank of the Tay, in the midst of a valley completely surrounded by mountains of considerable height, the sides of which are clothed from base to summit with woods. Conspicuous amongst them we notice, on the west, Craigievenan, and, on the north, Craigiebarns. Dunkeld contains the ruins of a Gothic cathedral, whose choir, having been restored by the liberality of the late Duke of Atholl, is now converted into a parish church. In the chancel is a stone figure of a knight in armour, supposed to be the effigy of the no

torious Earl of Buchan, natural son of Robert II., surnamed the "wolf of Badenoch," who burnt the cathedral of Elgin.

A short distance off, on the same bank of the Tay, is the ancient palace of the Dukes of Atholl. A modern structure was commenced by a former duke, but since his death, in 1830, no further progress has been made towards its completion. The spacious grounds surrounding the palace abound in rural attractions of every description. Guides are in attendance to escort visitors to the various scenes of interest, at a charge of 2s. 6d. for each person, or 1s. each when the party exceeds two persons.

About 1 mile from Dunkeld is the Hermitage, called also Ossian's Hall, overlooking the river Braan, and commanding a beautiful view of the cascade formed by the river at this point. The walls and ceiling of this grotto are covered with mirrors, which reflect the fall many hundred times over. Farther up the stream we come to Ossian's Cave, and above it another cascade of about 50 ft. high, where the Braan, rushing beneath Rumbling Bridge, precipitates itself in several distinct falls.

At Pitlochry (283 miles) we see Faskally House near the confluence of the Tummel and the Garry, and reach Killiecrankie (32) miles), in whose famous Pass, in 1689, Graham of Claverhouse was shot by a concealed assassin, after gaining a victory over the royalists. We presently arrive at Blair Atholl (35 miles), at a distance of 3 miles from which are the Falls of Bruar, mentioned by Burns in a poem addressed to the Duke of Atholl, petitioning for the improvement of the scene by plantations, which have since been made in accordance with the poet's request. About 1 mile from Dal

whinnie (58) miles) is Loch Ericht, 20 miles in length, and 1 mile wide, to the north of which we observe a mountain named Benalder. In one of its caves Prince Charles Edward concealed himself for some time after the disastrous battle of Culloden. We next reach Kingussie (71 miles), and see, on the opposite bank of the Spey, the ruins of Ruthven Barracks, destroyed by the Highlanders in 1746. Two miles distant is Belville House, and near it an obelisk in memory of Macpherson, the translator of Ossian. At Aviemore (83 miles) passengers descend who desire to visit Cairngorm, or go by the mountains to Braemar. We find nothing worthy of mention until our arrival at Forres (119 miles), a town of 4000 inhabitants, containing several public buildings, and the remains of a castle once the residence of the Earls of Moray. NAIRN (128 miles) is called the Brighton of the north. It has a good port and extensive baths. One mile west is Balblair Castle, near which the English army encamped after the battle of Culloden. Continuing on we reach CULLODEN (140 miles), near which place on Culloden Moor, was fought in 1745, the battle which put an end to the hopes of the Stuarts. Soon afterwards we reach INVERNESS (144 miles), (Hotels: Caledonian, Railway, Union), the capital of the county, containing about 13,000 inhabi tants, and situated on both banks of the Ness, close to Moray and Beauly Firths and the Great Glen of Scotland. Inverness is a wellbuilt town, and is generally considered the capital of the Highlands. It contains several public buildings, amongst which are the Court House, the County Rooms, and the New Jail, which are built on the site of the ancient castle. Near the Town Hall the tourist

will remark an antique cross, at the foot of which is the Clach-naCudden, or "tub stone," on which women used to stand for the purpose of filling their pails in the river, by which it was placed. At the mouth of the Ness are the remains of a fort built by Oliver Cromwell, and dismantled after From Castle the Restoration.

Hill we see, on the south west, the dome of Mealfourvonie towering above the rest of the mountains which surround Loch Ness; on the west the hills of Strathconan

and Strathglass; on the north, the huge form of Ben Wyvis in Ross-shire; on the east the Firth of Moray is seen losing itself in the sea, and on a clear day we can see the hills in the counties of Sutherland, Caithness, and Banff.

Several interesting excursions can be made in the neighbourhood. 1 miles to the west are the basin and entrance of the Caledonian Canal, and 19 miles to the south west are the Falls of Foyers. (See Route 20.)

[graphic]

ROUTE 24.

INVERNESS.

PERTH TO ABERDEEN. 90 miles; fures by ordinary trains, 1st class, 15s. ; 2d, 11s. 3d.; 3d, 8s.

Ta distance of 2 miles from Perth, near the confluence of the Tay and the Almond, we leave, on the right, the ancient palace of Scone, where, in early times the kings of Scotland were crowned, and passing Luncarty (4 miles), we arrive at Stanley Junction (7 miles), where a branch line leads to Dunkeld. Near Stanley the tourist will see,

on the right, a fall of the river Tay, called Campsie Linn. Proceeding on our way we observe, near Cargill (11 miles), the ruins of Kinclaven Castle, captured by Wallace, and shortly afterwards reach Coupar Angus (153 miles), (Strathmore Arms Hotel), where we find the ruins of a monastery of Malcolm IV. Here, a few years ago, an almanack was discovered in Arabic figures, and dated 1482. (From Coupar Angus there is a branch line of 5 miles to Blairgowrie). Passing Meigle (214 miles) where, in the churchyard, are some curious carved stones in memory of Vanora, the wife of King Arthur, we reach Glamis (26

miles). Here is a venerable castle, in which Malcolm II. was assassinated in 1034. Its walls are in some parts 15 feet thick, and a staircase of 143 steps leads to the summit of a lofty tower, from which an extensive view can be obtained. Several relics are here to be seen, comprising numerous pictures and portraits, and, amongst other treasures, the sword and coat of mail of Macbeth, thane of Glamis. In 1537 the young and lovely Countess of Glamis was publicly burnt at Edinburgh on a charge of sorcery.

We next arrive at Forfar (32} miles), the capital of the county of Angus, a manufacturing town; population, 9300; situated near a small lake in the vale of Strathmore. Passing Auldbar Road (37) miles), on the left of which is the hill of Guthrie, where are the remains of a Roman encampment, we cross Lunan Water, and enter a deep cutting, on emerging from which we see, on the left, Guthrie Castle, and reach Guthrie Junction (39) miles), and passing Farnell Road (443 miles), near which, on the left, is Kinnaird Castle, we reach the Bridge of Dun (48 miles). At Dubton (50 miles) is a line to Montrose (3 miles), a seaport town; population, 14,560. Joseph Hume was born here, and

a monument is erected to his memory in High-street. Passing Drumlithie (664 miles), and Stonehaven (73 miles), where are the ruins of Dunottar Castle, on the summit of an isolated crag, called Fowlsheugh, or "Bird's Rock," from the number of sea-gulls which build their nests in its cavities, and Cove (85 miles), we round the eastern extremity of the Grampian Hills, and crossing, the Dee, reach

ABERDEEN. (Hotels: Douglas, Royal, Queen's); population esti

"

mated in 1870 at 82,000. Aberdeen is the northern capital of Scotland, and is called "the granite city." It is on the left bank of the Dee. It has become a considerable seaport, and sends out a magnificent fleet of ships, called "Aberdeen clippers." It has extensive cotton, woollen, and linen factories, a spacious harbour, and excellent docks, nearly a million pounds sterling having been expended upon them. The principal street is Union-street, which is more than a mile in length, and is one of the finest in Scotland. Broad-street, in which Marischal College, founded in 1593, is situated, contains a house said to have been the residence of Lord Byron for some years during his boyhood. The Town House, in Castle-street, adjoining Unionstreet, is a remarkably handsome building. In the same street the tourist will see The Cross, built in 1686, and ornamented with medallion portraits of the kings of Scotland, from James I. to James VII. About 1 miles from Aberdeen lies Old Aberdeen, containing nothing of interest except King's College, founded in 1494, and the ancient cathedral of St. Malachar. About a mile from Old Aberdeen is the old Brig of Balgownie, said to have been constructed in the reign of Robert 1., and consisting of a single arch. It is mentioned in Lord Byron's "Don Juan.'

"As 'Auld Lang Syne' brings Scotland, one and all,

Scotch plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear streams, The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's brig's black wall,

All my boy-feelings, all my gentler dreams

Of what I then dreamt, clothed in their own pall,

Like Banquo's offspring; floating past

me seems

My childhood in this childishness of mine:

I care not-'tis a glimpse of Auld Lang Syne."",

EXCURSION

FROM ABERDEEN TO BALMORAL

BY BALLATER.

EAVING Aberdeen by railway we pass, for the greater part of the way to Ballater, close by the Dee. At Banchory (17 miles), the Battle of Corrichie was fought in 1562, in the presence of Queen Mary. Near Lumphanan (27 miles) Macbeth is said to have been buried beneath one of the numerous cairns to be found in the vicinity. After leaving Aboyne (32 miles) we see Loch Kinnord, on one of the islands in which is a ruined castle, supposed to have belonged to Malcolm Canmore. We now reach Ballater (43) miles), (Hotel: Invercauld Arms), the terminus of the railway, a place much resorted to by visitors for its mineral waters and the purity of its air. At the farmhouse of Ballatrich, on the opposite bank of the Dee, Byron lived in his early youth. "Here was the place where Byron's mother used to retire in the summer months from Aberdeen with her boy. The valley is divided by a wild brook hidden among green alders, and its slopes are hung with the native birch and a few oaks. At the upper end is a farm-house, but it is new; and the farmer, to show me the house in which Byron lived, took me to his farm-yard. The house Mrs. Byron inhabited is now a barn or sort of hay-loft, in his yard; but the bed in which Byron used to lie is still there. It is one of the deal cupboard sort of beds, common in highland huts.

The farmer said many people came to see the place, and several had tried to buy the bed from him, but that he should think it quite a shame to sell it."-Howitt.

Lochnagar, the summit of which is 12 miles from Ballater, is frequently ascended by tourists. Byron thus speaks of the scenery of the neighbourhood:

"Years have rolled on, Loch-na-gar, since I left you,

Years must elapse ere I tread you again;

Nature of verdure and flowers has bereft you,

Yet still are you dearer than Albion's plain.

England! thy beauties are tame and domestic

To one who has roved o'er the moun

tains afar;

Oh for the crags that are wild and majestic!

The steep frowning glories of dark
Loch-na-gar."

From Ballater we proceed to BALMORAL CASTLE (9 miles) by coach. The route is through the "Pass of Ballater," and for a greater part of the distance is through a charming tract of country. Abergeldie Castle, a residence of the Prince of Wales, formerly inhabited by the Duchess of Kent, is 7 miles from Ballater. Soon after passing the castle we see the spire of Cruithie Free Kirk, and an obelisk to the memory of the late Prince Consort. Near the road, on the right, is the Parish Church of Craithie, where the Queen and her family frequently attend church during their residence at Balmoral. A private bridge crosses the Dee to BALMORAL CASTLE, which is situated below the hill of Craig-na-Gowan. The property was purchased by Prince Albert from the Earl of Fife. It is a castellated mansion, closely resembling the ancient baronial castles of Scotland. It is built of a

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