134

EXCELLENT BREAKFAST.

tion to Government for permission to proceed was met with a peremptory refusal.

M. Jus, most hospitable of men, prepared a gorgeous breakfast for us, consisting of course of "all the delicacies of the season," and sent us off, after we had eaten, not only with many good wishes, but a

very superior quality, averaging in value from ten to eleven francs the kilog. (2 lbs. 3 ozs.).

Cotton picked at Melkasnak.-Georgian, long staple, white, with the much-esteemed yellow tint in it, long and silky, probably cleaned by hand. Excellent cotton, averaging from nine to ten francs the kilog.

Cotton picked at Am-Nakrar.-Georgian, long staple, yellowish white, rather long, strong and nervous. Tolerably well cleaned. Average price, eight to nine francs the kilog. Cotton picked at Barika.-Georgian, long staple, fine colour, very dirty, and badly cleaned. This does not detract from the intrinsic value of the cotton, although it lowers it in price about two francs the kilog.

These specimens leave nothing to be desired except a little more attention in cleaning and in picking

Were this

properly attended to, the cotton grown at the above-named places would stand deservedly high in our markets. May our ships be soon loaded with such produce.

(Signed) HARDY,

Director of Acclimatization Gardens at Algiers.

(Counter-signed) F. AUBLY,

Commandant-Superieur Bou-Saada.

January 11, 1865.

liberal supply of cigars, which, by the way, are worth their weight in gold out here. A couple of hours'

ride brought us to Msila, so longed-for the previous day-an Arab town, or rather village, lying on both sides of a rapid river. There were a few palms scattered here and there, gaunt and grim, to remind us of the past. The principal foliage, however, consists of almonds, oranges, and cactus-fitting introduction to the mountainous country of the Atlas, into which we were soon to penetrate. Msila is a good specimen of an Arab town untouched by European hands; it contains a population of 7,000 inhabitants, of whom only twelve are French.

We rode into the court-yard of the French caravansary, most delighted at the prospect of taking off our clothes and brushing our hair, after six days of hardship, and no water to speak of.

The Kaid dined with us, as also did the lieutenant of the Bureau Arabe, who was full of grievances, and gave us some idea of the hard work these officers are expected to go through, with little remission, the leave they are allowed to obtain

136 OFFICERS OF THE BUREAUX ARABES.

being but scanty. One month's leave in the space of three years is all these hapless exiles have to look forward to. They camp out for a month or two at a time, in their business of limiting the tribes, a task which entails endless quarrels and heart-burnings with the natives, and must be an unenviable one indeed. Two or three only of these officers are placed in the distant stations, and they live so isolated from French communion, that they end by becoming more Arab than the Arabs themselves, delighting in kooskoos, and worshipping at the shrine of the Oulad Nayls.

CHAPTER XVII.

MSILA TO ALGIERS.

HE Kaid was sitting outside his house as we

THE

passed, on our morning walk, and invited us to join him in a social thimbleful of coffee. We squatted down accordingly on the straw mat by his side, and smoked the calumet of peace, basking in the sun the while-rather a public performance, though, in the middle of the street! The coffee these people drink is excellent, strong, perhaps a little too thick for European taste, and generally over-sweet, according to Eastern fashion. Their tea, on the other hand, is execrable, strongly spiced with caraway, and altogether a most sickening beverage. Having gone through the necessary performances of hospitality with the Kaid, we succeeded in escaping, preceded by his own henchman

138

POPULATION OF MSILA.

as guide to the lions of the place. This worthy began by carrying us across the river on his back, an undignified proceeding, but the only means of reaching the best portion of the town. It is a queer, rambling place, perched on the summit of a hill, all the houses low and mud-built, the first floors projecting on rude rafters over the road. The tumble-down court-yards are full of quaint nooks and corners, and crazy galleries, in which the inmates sit and work all day, embroidering for the great Friday markets. Each house has its wide low doorway, coigned with ancient Roman stones, closed with a ponderous conglomeration of wood and nails, and finished usually with a massive iron ring.

The Arab portion of the population gain their livelihood by means of gold and silver embroidery on red morocco leather, a coarser species of the same description of work as that of Constantinople. The Jews restrict themselves to metal, and turn out all kinds of jewelry in bad gold and worse silver. We went about from house to house examining the wares, the only way of find