chimerical. Slowly we wound up the hill, over the brow of the first range, down into the valley, and up again, a toilsome way, over the next and highest ridge. We were met every now and then by a few mules laden with planks of cedar, that nearly forced us out of the path with their unwieldy length, and gave out pleasant whiffs of perfume as we went by. These are not the sweet brown cedars so much valued for cabinet-work, but a white wood, used here for building, and possessing a "cedary" odour, not quite so powerful as in the forests of Lebanon or Teniet-al-Had.

Arrived at the top of the mountain, we expected the forest to break upon our view in all the grandeur of its primeval monarchs, instead of which there were only a few scrubby trees, and some half-sawn planks lying about. The large roots that peeped out everywhere showed that the forest had indeed existed once, but was now no more at any rate, in a picturesque point of view. We were much disappointed, and vented our illhumour on the unfortunate guides, until at length calm reason triumphed, and we consoled ourselves.

with comforting reflections on the beauty of the day and the balmy freshness of the air.

As we wound down the hill again on our homeward route, we had the entire plain stretched out before us, with snow-capped mountains beyond. It certainly is a frightful country, and quite remarkable for the thinness of its population. With a powerful opera-glass we could only distinguish two habitations on the whole expanse that lay thus mapped out. Batna itself is built in regular squares, and resembles from these heights a gigantic sheep-fold. The tribes inhabiting the hills are great breeders of horses, and produce an animal of the Arab race, which is exceedingly pretty, but rather weak in the shoulder. The horses bred in the mountains are much better than those of the plains, being more robust, and not so dainty as to food. Besides this, they are wonderfully sure of foot-a great deal more so, indeed, than the much-vaunted mules. There is an average of one hundred and fifty thousand horses in Algeria. The horses far away in the Sahara again, are of superior quality to those of the Tell (whether of

THE STEED OF THE DESERT.

21

the mountains or the plains), and are identified with almost all the actions of their masters.

The celebrated steed of the desert, the glory of ancient Numidia, is remarkable for the beauty of its form, the rapidity of its course, and the promptitude with which it interprets the smallest wishes of its master. According to Arab judges, it should possess the qualities of the hare, the pigeon, and the mahari, or swiftly-trotting camel. They say that a perfect animal is wide in three of its parts—the forehead, the chest, and the limbs; long in three of its parts—the neck, the belly, and the haunches; short in three of its parts -the ears, the pasterns, and the tail.*

In 1844 there was an alarm of the race dying out, so a depôt of stallions was established by Government in each of the three provinces; and in 1851 the entire system was re-organized, and placed under the charge of an experienced officer. So great was the apathy of the natives themselves, and their indifference to the degeneration of their horses, that they refused to make use of the advan

*"Chevaux du Sahara." Par le Général Daumas.

22

DEPARTURE FROM BATNA.

tage prepared for them, until a premium was offered for the best yearling mare and foal in each province. Equine affairs are now in a flourishing condition again, thanks to General Daumas and Marshal Randon.

We were by this time quite rabid to leave Batna behind us, and were much dismayed, on a visit to the diligence office, to find all the places taken. It was utterly impossible to remain in so dreadful a place; so, in answer to our urgent entreaties, the chef of the bureau promised to manage for us somehow, if we would promise to be at the office punctually by 4 A.M., the settled time for starting. We were there accordingly, only too anxious to get away, which was proved by the fact that rather than remain where we were, we submitted to the indignity of being packed up along with the luggage, and stowed away in the place usually allotted to the banquette, lying all in heaps anyhow, our bones broken by the sharp edges of boxes and imperials, each jolt bringing in its train its own peculiar series of agonies. This state of things went on for six hours, while we traversed a

INN OF EL-KANTARA.

23

country that increased gradually in barrenness, and ended at last in sandy earth and rocks, with no green tree, or bough, or shrub. Roads there might just as well be none; it would be impossible to distinguish them from the surrounding desolation, were it not for the deep holes and ruts which tell of former carriage traffic. Now we dip into a rut, now struggle up a precipitous incline, and splash through a stony watercourse; our joints are dislocated by swaying shocks and jolts; the driver sits on my legs, or barks my shins with the handle of his whip, or helps himself straight, after a more than usually desperate jerk, by means of my already aching shoulder. Suddenly a severe lurch dances all the boxes out of their places on to our fingers—a sharp turn of the road, and, Heaven be praised! the neat little inn of El-Kantara, where we are to sojourn for the next two days!

A clean little inn, with tidy trellised porch and garden railings, and fowls and turkeys clucking round the door; a comely damsel smiling a welcome on "Messieurs les Voyageurs ;" breakfast