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Indian travel-Bombay-Western Ghauts-Parallelism between the
Ghauts and Himálaya—Tápti valley—Sátpúra and Vindhya
ranges-Narbada valley-Jabalpúr-The Marble Rocks-Scene
by moonlight-Allahabad,
CHAPTER III.
HIMÁLAYAN PEAKS AND SANITARIUMS.
Agra and Delhi-The Indian Mutiny-Dárjiling-Mount Everest—
Kanchinjanga-Sikkim-Nepal-Naini Tal-Almora-Ráni-
khet Masúri-Dharamsala-Dalhousie- Marri-The Hindú
Kúsh-Simla, .
CHAPTER IV.
RÚRKI, HARDWAR, AND THE TERAI.
Sahárunpur collections—Dr Jamieson-Major Lang-Losing one's
head-Rúrki Engineering College-Hardwar - The Great
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Mela-Jungle fires-The Terai-A Himálayan hunter-Mr
Hayward-Fossils of the Sewalik-The Dehra Doon-Indian
tea-Localities of the plantations,
CHAPTER V.
FIRST VIEWS OF THE HIMÁLAYA.
Goître-Masúri-Climate-Interior routes-View of snowy peaks
-The Abode of the Gods-Road to Simla-Appearance of
Simla-Lines on the Himalaya,
CHAPTER VI.
SIMLA SOCIETY.
Simla misunderstood-Amusements-Morals-Overwork-Conve-
nience of position-Indian society,
CHAPTER VII.
SIMLA CELEBRITIES.
Lord Northbrook-The Bengal Famine-General policy-Umbra
Indica-Sir Richard Temple-Sir William Muir-Lord Napier
of Magdala-Colonel Dillon-Mr C. U. Aitchison-Mr Chap-
man, &c.,
CHAPTER VIII.
SIMLA AS A SANITARIUM.
Commencement of Simla-Lord Dalhousie-Population-Advan-
tages and defects of the climate-A starting-point for the
Himálaya—“ No supplies”—Central Asian routes from Simla,
CHAPTER IX.
MY HIMÁLAYAN OUTFIT.
Tents-Lord Napier's tent-Furniture-Supplies on the way-
Game-No eggs-Baltistan apricots-Preserved provisions-
Potables Stimulants unnecessary-Servants-My attendants
-Means of carriage,
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37
46
55
73
79
CHAPTER X.
SIMLA TO THE SUTLEJ.
The Great Hindústhan and Tibet Road-Fatal accidents-Feelings
on going over a precipice-The dandi-Bumping-Divisions
of the road-View from Narkanda-Kotgarh and its Mission
-Colonel Moore-The gloomy Sutlej valley, .
The Rajah of Bussahir-Death of a hillman-Scenery of the Sutlej
valley-Sentient nature of plants-Himálayan pines-The
Deodar-Chini-View of the Raldang Kailas,
CHAPTER XII.
A HARD ROAD TO TRAVEL.
End of the cut road-The Morang Kailas-Rarang-Foam-cascades
-Granite avalanches-Turning a corner- —Jangi—A praying-
mill-Lippe-Author's illness-Poisoning in India,
CHAPTER XIII.
THE RUHANG PASS.
Height of the pass-The yak or ox of Tibet-Its grunting-A
yak's saddle-Csomo de Körös-Tibetan grammars and dic-
tionaries Summit of the pass-Suffering of the dandiwallahs,
Súgnam-Shaso-The Chokra-The boy Nurdass-Shaso to Pú-
The worst path in Bussahir - The gorge of the Sutlej-
Schwester Pagell,
CHAPTER XV.
THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW OF DEATH.
Companions in my illness-Sand-flies - Scorpions Serpents-
Tibetan mastiffs-Chinese Tartars-A snow-bear-Ground too
dear for burial-Cor scorpionis,
CHAPTER XVI.
JUNCTION OF THE SUTLEJ AND SPITI RIVERS.
The Moravian Mission
-
The people of Pú-Start for Chinese
Tibet-Dabling and Dúbling-Sang-po and Sang-pa-Mural
precipices - Khalb - Extraordinary junction of the Lee and
Spiti rivers-Geology — Himálayan valleys - Cataclysms-
Names for rivers,
139
CHAPTER XVII.
THE GREAT KÚNG-MA PASS INTO CHINESE TIBET.
The Oopsung Gorge-Namgea Fields-Camp on the pass-The
great mountain Lío Porgyúl-Extraordinary scene by moon-
light-Chota Khan's wrath - Power of the sun - An awful
scene-Cross the Chinese frontier-Summit of the pass-The
rolling hills of Tartary-Descent to Shipki,
.
147
CHAPTER X VIII.
STOPPED BY TARTARS.
Arrival at Shipki-An unexpected difficulty-Tartar young women
- Supplies and carriage refused — Remonstrance useless-
Reasons assigned for refusing to let us pass-Englishmen sus-
pected - Chinese wiliness-A disagreeable character - The
Tzong-pon of D'zabrung-My further plans-The country be-
yond Shipki -Firing into one's stomach-“Pull, pull,”
155
CHAPTER XIX.
TIBET AND ITS SECLUSION.
Frightful tortures-Sealing on horseback- Reasons assigned for
excluding Europeans-More probable reasons—The gold of
Tibet-Other minerals and gems-Geography of Tibet,
CHAPTER XX.
THE PEOPLE OF SHIPKI.
A Tartar beauty-Flirtation in Shipki-Dress and appearance-
Position and products of Shipki-Departure-Instance of Tar-
167
tar ferocity "Still meat"—A pap for infants-Chinese aver-
sion to milk-Marches to Shipki,
The upper valley route-A jhúla or twig-bridge-Lord Elgin's
death-Chota Khan's terror-An intrepid dame-Farewell to
the Sutlej-Gyumúr-The hereditary executioner-Tashigong
monastery - Búdhism - Shoulder of the great mountain -
Marches to Nako,
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181
CHAPTER XXII.
NAKO AND THE NAKOWALLAH.
A mountain pool-Pleasures of camp-life-A strange feeling-
Inclement weather-Food-Tibetan appetites-Houses-A
wonderful dog-A reincarnation-Part from Bruder Pagell—
Chango-Spiti minstrels-Leave Kunáwar - Its character-
istics-Its paths,
CHAPTER XXIII.
CHINESE TIBET AGAIN.
A habitationless district-A Tibetan mastiff-Chaddaldok and
To-tzo rivers-Necessary violence-Chúmúrti door into Tibet
-Origin of Tibetan exclusiveness-Turner's embassy-Bogle
and Manning-The Tibetan question, .
Polyandry explained - Polygyny - Extent-Six husbands-The
Abbé Desgodins-Tibetan and Scotch immorality-Tartar
temperament-Lama nuns-A holy man-Tibetan marriages
-Origin of polyandry-Its advantages-Ingenious apologies,
CHAPTER XXV.
SPITI.
Open caves-Lari and Po-Rope-bridges-Extraordinary ravines
-Dankar-Insolence-Seclusion of Spiti-Ugly women-
-Dress-Products-Gay nuns-History,
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