the practice of holding one's self responsible for his conduct became obselete, and the redress of grievances was reserved to the courts, those agencies of civilization, and, so equitably have the scales of justice been adjusted, and so irresistibly right have questions arising thereunder been adjudicated, that if it is beyond the wisdom of man to avoid erring in all the affairs of this life, the practice of repetition in evils that have been decreed as such should have been abrogated years ago.

GROWTH OF THE VILLAGE.

In addition to the Baptist Church, court house and jail, built this year, there were other improvements made which carried the village onward beyond the race ran by it from the dawn of 1851. The village site then was about eighty-five acres, according to the observations of one who was then here, and possessed no attractions of a character that would be designated as decided without qualifications. It consisted of knolls of sand, deep hollows and an uneven surface generally. The soil was ridged on Front and Third streets, it is said, and depressed on Second street. An empty wagon could scarcely have been driven from the river to Fourth street; a wagon laden it was impossible to move. Land could have been purchased for a consideration, the less valuable the more readily accepted. In fact, many of the tracts that could then be had for almost any sum have since grown to be of priceless value.

There was one feature, however, continues a comer of that year, that was irresistible in convincing prospectors that if they remained the lines of their lives would be cast in pleasant places; and that was the spirit of rivalry manifested by old settlers to welcome the daily arrivals, to whom they rendered numberless kindnesses. If there was one thing that compensated for the inapt appearance of things to the observers in 1851, it was the genial bonhomme, which greeted their arrivals, the readiness of Levy, Rublee, Stoddard, Burns, and the thousand and one other distinguished citizens who offered their hospitalities, their aid, their advice and their protection to whomsoever made La Crosse his place of sojourn or establishment.

As typifying the character of the pioneers, many of those who still survive will recall Samuel Watson, who was always ready to "accommodate a friend" without a scintilla of evidence regarding the obligation; many will remember the encouragement and aid John M. Levy was ready to offer, and which being availed of, resulted in making the beginning of one of the wealthiest lumber men in the Northwest; of the encouragement offered by Elder Sherwin, which laid the foundation for one of the ablest lawyers in the Northwest; of the encouragement of the same gentleman to an ambitious young man who is now doing a business of say $2,000,000 a year. In the language of Mr. Losey: "The men and women of that period were of broad views, and laid the foundations of this city strong and solid. Their Christianity was governed by no sectarian lines, but was always broad enough to include the hungry, the thirsty and the weary wherever found."

This year John Gund started in an unpretentious way what has since grown to be one of the largest, best-furnished and thoroughly responsible corporations in the West, "The Gund Brewing Company." It was started in a small log house on the site of the office of Colman's Mill, and quite unpretentious in claims or appearance. But as the town increased to a village and grew to be a city, the enterprise here evinced was rewarded by returns that have since increased an hundred and an hundred-fold.

During the year great changes took place. Numerous buildings were erected, the population increased rapidly, and the forces largely augmented by the arrivals of ministers, school teachers, lawyers, merchants, mechanics and steamboats had a tendency to cause an advancement and growth that was readily seen before 1852, drew to a close.

During the latter part of the summer and fall, the first brick house was put up in La Crosse County. It stood and stands in the present city on Front street south of Main, where it was located by Lake & Webster, then liquor dealers, who have since become bankers, was one story high, and in dimensions, 20x40.

In October of this year, a lodge of Masons began working in La Crosse, under a dispensation, under the following officers: Morrison McMillan, W. M.; Solomon Howe, S. W.; J. R.

Crossett, J. W.; Col. E. Childs, Treasurer, and C. A. Stevens, Secretary. Its membership became large and its prosperity has never abated.

The first newspaper-the Spirit of the Times-was launched on the journalistic tide this year; the New England House was commenced; the Clerk of the County Court absconded, and H. C. Hubbard was appointed to fill his place; Simeon Kellogg was appointed Postmaster, and very many other incidents of minor importance contributed to the sum of life in the vicinity. During this year the number of deaths are stated to have been twenty-one, in addition to some seven or eight, who died within a short distance of the village. Of the former number, ten were adults, and eleven children, varying in age from three months to ten years, and of the whole number twelve died during the month of July. Notwithstanding this unusual mortality, and the fact that the summer was peculiarly unfavorable to health, the progress of settlement, and the general physical prosperity of the county was considered as highly satisfactory. good beginning had been made in various parts of the county with regard to permanent settlement, and the agricultural resources had been found to be rich in promise to the hand of industry. In addition to these advantages, the pineries were then, it is claimed, even with the disadvantages of a new beginning, yielding a richer reward for an equal outlay of money and labor than did the gold mines of California.

A

In short, the year had been productive of much good; the value of its blessings were carefully estimated, and it was the knowledge of their existence here that attracted inhabitants. hither of moral and intellectual character, giving a higher and more healthy tone to society, and fostering every scheme for the public good.

Among the prominent citizens who came in during 1852, and have since been directly or indirectly identified with the growth and progressive advancement of the city and surrounding country, were George Howard, George Scharpf, Dr. Nicolai, Adam Ekle, Mr. Blohmer, P. Clark, T. Clark, Andrew Pfiffner, J. C. Fuhr, M. F. Hubbard, Alexander McMillan, Benjamin Simonton, John Simonton, Benjamin Brower, a dentist from Ohio; Domonic Jehlen, Amos Elliott, Nicholas Weber, and some others whose names have escaped the memory of informants.

Still, the people were dependent for supplies upon Galena, Dubuque, St. Louis and points generally down the river. The mill of Burns, Simonton & Co., furnished flour and commodities of kindred character, and when difficulty was experienced in their procuration there, consumers had recourse to the mill at Prairie du Chien. The year closed without either accident or incident worthy of mention, and the advent of 1853 was welcomed with appropriate salutations.

The spring of 1853 was early in its arrival. The roads through woods and plains were earlier available for travel, and navigation was resumed the latter part of March. The streets of La Crosse were filled with strangers attracted hither-some to engage in legitimate business, some to embark in speculations, and others to continue their explorations into the lumber regions of the Black River country. New stores and warehouses had been contracted for, or were in progress of building; the saw-mill was in active operation, and others were promised. In short, it was stated that the business for the current year would be enormous, compared with annual statements previously submitted, and this, too, by men who reason from facts and not premises patently incorrect.

In April of that year, La Crosse contained four stores for the sale of general merchandise, one drug, one hardware, one furniture, and one stove and tin store, three groceries, one bakery, one livery stable, one harness-maker, four tailors, three shoemakers, three masons, watchmaker, four blacksmiths, three painters, one wagon-maker, one surveyor, four millwrights, twenty carpenters, one butcher, one barber, one gunsmith, one turner, six physicians, six lawyers, four clergymen, three religious societies, a Division of the Sons of Temperance, a Freemason's Lodge, one church edifice, a court house, a steam saw and grist mill and five hotels.

Of these latter, the Tallmadge House was finished that spring by Tallmadge & Gridley. It was 64 feet by 30, four stories high, and was capable of accommodating one hundred and fifty

guests. The hotel was a conspicuous object on the corner of State and Third streets, and one of the largest and finest of any west of the lakes. The enterprising proprietors had established a free 'bus for conveying passengers to and from the boats, the house being situated so far back from the landing that this was the only means by which strangers could be induced to become patrons. The Western Enterprise, an old favorite, kept by Simeon Kellogg, and the New England, opened the spring of 1853 by G. H. Wilson, both being on Front street near the steamboat landing.

As above stated, travel was then brisk, every boat that arrived being crowded with Eastern and Southern people seeking homes in the West, and considerable rivalry was produced between the hotels. The Tallmadge was advertised extensively "as affording peculiar advantages to the man of leisure, seeking the retirement of a country residence in summer, from the turmoil and heat of a Southern city life," and many of its rooms at that time were occupied by Southern gentlemen and their families, who came up the river on pleasure trips seeking health and quiet.

The present city is said to have presented a strange appearance at that early day, and consisted principally of one business thoroughfare-Front street, which straggled along from La Crosse River nearly to Paul's Mill. From State to Pearl street the wooden buildings were quite thick, yet in these rude business structures, many of the leading merchants of to-day developed an ambition and an enterprise that has since made their fortunes. At that time, Nicholas Hintgen sold apples in a small fruit store near the corner of Front and Pearl streets with J. B. Jungen, who has since prospered in his employ as Clerk; J. M. Levy kept store on Front near Pearl, and owned a wharf-boat anchored at the foot of Pearl street, which was made the storehouse for the discharge of freight hence by river. George Farnum was then a member of the firm of Ledyard, Farnum & Co., and Alexander McMillan was running a blacksmith shop on State street near Front. But the times have changed since then, and the pioneer points, as also the pioneers themselves, have changed with them. Many still live, rich in the fruition of hopes that were inspired in the days whereof mention is here made; others, less fortunate, wait for the summons to join the innumerable caravan, and are ready to go.

The Tallmadge House after passing through a checkered experience, being kept by R. I. Johnson, C. P. Sykes, a Mr. Mercer, R. Harrington & Sons, and Mr. Bradley respectively. went up in smoke, the Western Enterprise was subsequently known as the Kellogg House, was razed to give place to the International, and the New England House was destroyed in the conflagration of 1857. The brick house put up this year, noted above, still stands, but the rude log and frame houses where commercial and marine La Crosse of a day that has gone. most did congregate, live only in the memories of those who knew them best.

Early in 1853, Daniel Raymond, A. Prent, Mr. Simms and Samuel McGovern made claims in the present township of Greenfield, erected cabins and began the life of pioneers in La Crosse County. The country, within a radius of twenty-five miles of the county seat. though comparatively thickly settled, was far from being entirely taken up, and La Crosse was then, as it has since continued to be, the most important and flourishing point in this portion of the State. The trips overland to this county were then made by way of Milwaukee, Watertown, Wyocena, Mauston, Sparta and other points, in a "prairie schooner" drawn by oxen, and the towns mentioned, then small country hamlets, have since grown into thriving cities and towns. Near Portage, immigrants encountered sandy roads, and often became disheartened at the outlook. At Mauston two or three houses and a saw-mill were the only objects of interest, and Sparta was equally unpretentious. Between Sparta and La Crosse the most prominent resident was Joshua Ridgley. The Pruett, Markle, Roach and Gable families were added to the inhab itants of Mormon Cooley, and with them came two bachelors, Messrs. Hosmer and Miller. They kept bachelors' hall for awhile, but Miller got married and raised a family, as also did his partner, J. F. Hosmer, who deserted one of the cabins erected by the Mormons, to espouse a young lady named Goodrich, who came West with friends in 1854, and became a wife the same year. During this year, George Gale was County Judge; F. M. Rublee. County Treasurer; A. Eldred, Sheriff; Robert Looney, Clerk of the Court; Ebenezer Childs.

and F. M. Hubbard, Clerk of the Board, while Chase A. Stevens was Register of Deeds, having succeeded W. T. Price.

At the fall meeting, the name of the town of Pierce was changed to Barre, by which it has since been known, and the towns of Onalaska, Burns and Farmington organized. The county was being built up, and superior advantages were offered to purchasers of lands, both in La Crosse County as it was then surveyed, and as it is at present bounded. One of the most important events of the year, and one producing a visible effect upon the growth and development of the county, was the establishment of the La Crosse Democrat; another was the removal of the land office hither from Mineral Point.

Chase A. Stevens was the editor of the paper, indulged political aspirations, and was a large land owner. The result was that he not only endeavored to secure political aggrandizement, but bent every energy to the advertising of the town. In doing this, the paper attracted the attention of Eastern capitalists to the promising village of La Crosse, which the editor, and all citizens of even that early day, claimed was destined in the near future to become the Gateway" leading to the rich, fertile country beyond the Mississippi. The prophetic wisdom of these gentlemen has indeed been vindicated; the city founded by them has become what they claimed it would, and to-day occupies the proud position of being second in commercial importance to but one city in the State. The means thus ably employed, were not without their effect. They brought hither those whose attention had been attracted, and when the land office was opened, the business transacted not only amounted to thousands daily, but realized the fulfillment of an inspired prophecy, that a nation may be born in a day.

THE UNITED STATES LAND OFFICE.

The land office was removed here in June, with Col. Theodore Rodolf, Receiver, and the Hon. Cyrus K. Lord, Register. This year, these gentlemen erected an office on Third street, adjoining the Tallmadge House, and began business with no help but that furnished by themselves. But this did not last long. The entries became so numerous that a force of from ten to fifteen clerks was necessary, and then, although laboring from daylight to dark, not nearly as much was disposed of as was hoped for or expected by those who were anxious to enter claims.

The scenes that were witnessed about this office were exciting, and of a character that in these days even of push and mercurial uncertainty, seem calculated to excite the risibles of the least excitable persons. The motto was first come first served, and the applicant who could first make his claim or present his bid, was the chief, it might almost be said, among ten thousand. Men began their vigil at the dawn of the day, and tarried late in the ranks to accomplish their object, while those who came late, like the foolish virgins who had failed to trim their lamps, were, to appropriate the vernacular of a later day, "badly left." Sometimes men remained in line all night to secure an audience when the office opened, while some hired substitutes and contained themselves in patience, biding their time.

In 1853, the entries were comparatively nominal in number until the latter part of that year, but in 1854 they increased in a wonderful ratio-became epidemic, as it were, without benefit of clergy, metaphorically speaking. Then it diminished, and gradually dropped off until the railroads came in about June, 1856, and made their selections of lands, after which the office was temporarily closed and the duties of its officers suspended. Early in 1853, the entries, it might be here observed, of lands in La Crosse County, as defined by the last survey, were made at Mineral Point, through Washburn & Woodman, Milton Barlow, Charles G. Hanscom and Kramer & Clinton-the latter, bankers, and, with those mentioned, residents of La Crosse.

The entries of lands after the office was removed included those in the pineries, as also those for agricultural purposes. Among the heavy entries made, those of the following for themselves and the third parties for whom they acted as agents, were among the largest: Samuel Watson, J. T. Spaulding, Washburn & Woodman, W. T. Price, Kramer & Clinton, James O'Neill, Mr. Whitcomb, Milton Barlow, Charles G. Hanscom, W. J. Gibson and others.

From 1853 to June, 1866, the total warrant and other entries amounted to 2,500,614 acres, involving the outlay of $3,098,317, and these were the purchases of land by individuals, not including the entries of pre-emptioners.

The vast sums of money thus received shows to what an extent men of capital and character came to La Crosse in response to the representations made by citizens who had come, and newspapers which had been established, since the days when Myrick resented the attacks of savages, and traders supplied the Indian's craving for whisky with distillations of red pepper dashed with most execrable tobacco washings. Nor was the guarding of these amounts until they could be deposited at Dubuque attended with an ease of mind consequent upon success to safe depositories as can be had to-day. Mr. Rodolf was frequently annoyed with the care of these funds, and subjected to ceaseless vigil and sleepless care until they were safely assigned to the custodian to whom they were directed.

Upon one occasion, sickness in his family made it almost impossible for him to venture away from home, even officially. While recounting this fact one day in his office, and regretting the affliction which had postponed his regular journey to Dubuque, a man present, with whom he was slightly acquainted, explained that he was about to depart for that point, and would be pleased to discharge any commission he might entrust to his discretion. Col. Rodolf interrogated him as to how he would go, and when, and retired with the remark that he would consider the subject.

It seems that the conversation between Col. Rodolf and the would-be messenger had been overheard by a citizen, and during the afternoon he admonished the Colonel not to trust him with the amount to be deposited, $10,000, which confirmed suspicions that had arisen in the Receiver's mind, and decided his action in regard to the matter. The applicant was refused his proffer, and Col. Rodolf departed with the money for Dubuque. The same day the would-be messenger departed in an exceedingly suspicious manner, accompanied, as was afterward ascertained, by the wife of one of the original pioneers and best-known citizens of this portion of the State. His anxiety to carry the money became apparent when his escapade was discovered, and the Register felicitated himself upon the exercise of a caution that spared him subsequent The absconding couple were heard of in California in after years, whence she returned and died, her husband de facto remaining there, while her husband de jure, who was left in La Crosse, lived to a hale old age before he was touched by the Master of mortality.

woe.

This incident is not related as evidence of the class who came to La Crosse in early times. In truth, but very few, if any, of a questionable character found an abiding-place here. The men who remained were of a different grade-fair types of a generation that is rapidly assimilating with the past; of a grenadier of the old regime who never in any sudden storm or rally, desperate melee or sorrowful encounter forgot to doff his plumed hat to an adversary, and ery out through his gray moustache, as he shortened his sword arm: "En garde."

The improvements this year, in addition to those already mentioned, consisting of the hotels, Receiver's office, brick house on Front street, etc., also included a schoolhouse on or near the present site of the Third Ward Schoolhouse, numerous dwellings, which numbered on January 1, 1854, upward of one hundred in various parts of the village, as far out as Fifth street.

EVIDENCES OF PROGRESS.

The following table will furnish some idea of the progress made by the town between 1851, when there was not to exceed four frame houses on the village site, and the fall of 1853, when it is purported to have been taken. Number of inhabitants in the village, 573; number of buildings, 79; deaths, 18; births, 25; persons under 10 years of age, 140; between 10 and 20, 103; 20 and 30, 172; 30 and 40, 87; 40 and 50, 29; 50 and 60, 6; 60 and 70, 8; 70 and 80, 3; males over 21, 183; females ditto, 124; children under 21, 240.

The oldest person living was Mr. Wirts, a German, whose age was 77 years, and the next Mrs. Stoddard, 76 years old. The oldest resident of La Crosse was H. J. B. Miller, who had been here eleven years.