amidst which are various public buildings, including a theatre, an exchange, extensive markets, &c. Newcastle must be considered the metropolis of a rich and populous district, including Tynemouth, North and South Shields, (all at the mouth of the Tyne,) Sunderland, Durham, and Gatehead; and with these it is intimately connected by means of the river, railways, or otherwise. At Shields and Sunderland are the great depôts of shipping in the coal and other trades. Besides its remarkable manufacturing and commercial industry, Newcastle is distinguished for its philosophical and literary institutions, no other town of its kind possessing so many inhabitants of cultivated taste.

HULL, (properly Kingston-upon-Hull,) is situated at the confluence of the River Hull with the estuary of the Humber, in the East Riding of Yorkshire, of which district it is the principal town. It commands an extraordinary amount of inland navigation, not only by means of the Trent, Ouse, Derwent, and other branches of the Humber, but by means of canals connecting with those streams, and penetrating to the very heart of England. It is the principal outlet for the manufactures of York and Lancashire towards the continent of Europe, the chief seat of the northern whale fishery, and one of the most important stations for steam-navigation in the island, having packets of that kind voyaging, not only to London, Newcastle, Leith, and Aberdeen, besides many inland places in its own district, but to Rotterdam, Hamburg, and occasionally to some of the ports in what is more particularly called the north of Europe. Hull was a noted port so early as the reign of Edward VI.; and in the seventeenth century it was a great depôt for arms, on which account the possession of it in the time of the civil war, became an object of much importance. The refusal of its governor, Sir John Hotham, to give it up at that time to Charles I., or even to admit his majesty within the gates, is a conspicuous incident in English history. For some years, owing to various circumstances, some branches of the commerce of the port have experienced a decline rather than an advance; but it is still a town of large trade. For the accommodation of the shipping there is a splendid range of docks, presenting an amount of quayage said to measure 60,000 square yards, and with all the suitable accommodations for storing a vast quantity of merchandise.

CHESTER is one of the less important and less populous of the commercial towns of England. Such importance, however, as it possesses as a commercial town, is enhanced by its being a county town and cathedral city, and the residence of a considerable number of persons in independent circumstances. It is also remarkable for its antiquity and its historical associations, as well as for some local features of an unusual kind.

It is situated within a bend of the Dee, a few miles from the point where that river joins an estuary branching from the Irish Channel. The two principal streets cross each other at right angles, and the town is still surrounded by the massive walls which were originally designed to protect it from warlike aggression. but are now only useful as an agreeable promenade, from which some pleasant views of the surrounding country may be obtained. The streets are formed in hollows dug out of rock, so that the lowest floor of each house is under the level of the ground behind, though looking out upon the carriage-way in front. The paths for passengers are not here, as is usually the case, formed in lateral lines along the streets, but in a piazza, running along the front of what in England is called the first, and in Scotland more correctly the second floor, of the houses. These piazzas, called in Chester "the Rows," are accessible from the

street by stairs at convenient distances. There are numerous shops entered from them, and they in some places still retain the massive wooden balustrades with which all were originally furnished, but for which, in other places, light iron railings have been substituted. Where the houses and balustrades are old, the effect is very curious and striking, and apt to awaken ideas of ancient usages and habits long passed away. The Cathedral of Chester contains some curious ancient architecture. The Castle is a splendid modern building, on the site of the powerful fortress which was once of such importance as a check upon the Welsh: it contains the county court-house, jail, &c. The principal other buildings are the Halls, built by the merchants to serve as marts, of which there are three, besides the Exchange. The bridge across the Dee is a remarkable object, being of one arch, with a span of 200 feet; it cost $40,000.

Chester was an important station of the Romans, from whom it derived the cross form of its two principal streets, and of whom many relics have, from time to time, been dug up. It retained its importance during Saxon and Norman times, and in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries was a flourishing city, with a large maritime trade. It then declined, in consequence of natural obstructions to the navigation of the river. From the year 1328, downwards, it was remarkable for the annual performance of a peculiar class of theatrical representations, similar to those performed at Coventry, and termed Mysteries. To modern taste these would seem the most gross burlesque of sacred subjects; but so convinced were the clergy of those days of their edifying qualities, that a thousand days of pardon from the Pope, and forty from the Bishop of Chester, were granted to all who attended them. After a long period of declension, the trade of Chester was revived by the cutting of a new channel for the river, whereby vessels of 600 tons burden were enabled to come to the quays near the town. The commerce, with the exception of a few ships which visit Spain, Portugal, the Mediterranean, and the Baltic, is chiefly confined to Ireland, whence an immense quantity of linen, hemp, flax, skins, and provisions, is imported. The exports of Chester are cheese, (the staple production of the county,) lead, coal, calamine, copper-plates, and cast-iron. Ship-building is carried on to a considerable extent, and there are some manufactures of inferior consequence.

SOUTHAMPTON is an ancient but considerably modernized town, the capital of Hampshire, and, next to Portsmouth and Plymouth, may be considered the chief outport on the southern coast. It enjoys a situation at once pleasant and convenient, in a vale adjoining to the bay bearing its own name. In modern times, the town has been greatly improved and increased, by the erection of lines of handsome streets in the environs, the residence of a respectable and leisurely population. Among the attractions of the neighborhood, are those of the New Forest, which almost adjoins the town, and a beach forming a pleasant bathing-place in summer; few sea-side towns are more salubrious or agreeable. With the Isle of Wight, at a few miles' distance, there is a constant communication by steamboats. The South-Western Railway, which terminates near the shore of the bay, has greatly advanced the interests of the town, by making it a depôt of traffic in connection with the metropolis; and there are now constructed, at a great cost, large wet-docks and wharfs for shipping. A considerable trade is already carried on with foreign countries, and the port is a main point of steam communication between England and the United States, in

which, and some other respects, it is a rising rival of the neighboring town of Portsmouth. The population in 1841 was 19,324, and is now estimated at 40,000.

OXFORD, the chief of the University cities, is the principal town in Oxfordshire, and is situated in a valley at the confluence of the Isis and Cherwell, at the distance of 58 miles from London. Besides being the seat of the celebrated university named from it, it is the seat of an episcopal see. Containing twenty colleges and five "halls," a cathedral, and thirteen elegant parish churches, besides the Radcliffe Library, the University, Theatre, and several other elegant public buildings, all condensed into a small space, amidst streets, some of which are straight and elegant, while none except a few of an obscure character are mean, Oxford appears to a stranger as beautiful externally as its historic character renders it venerable. The High-street, in which several colleges are situated, is generally acknowledged to be one of the finest streets in the world. The origin of the university is usually attributed, but upon no certain authority, to King Alfred. Oxford has certainly, however, been a famed seat of learning since the twelfth century. Each college and hall has its own students and teachers, revenues and regulations; yet they are all united under the government of one university. The officers by whom the university is immediately governed, are the chancellor, high steward, vice-chancellor, and two proctors. In addition to the private officers in each college and hall, who see that due order and discipline are preserved, and all the liberal sciences taught, there are twenty-three public professors of the several arts and sciences The students wear a peculiar dress, varied according to their status in the college. They all live within the precincts of their respective colleges, or lodge in licensed boarding-houses.

CAMBRIDGE is the chief town in Cambridgeshire, and is situated on the Cam, at the distance of 50 miles from London. It is also an elegant city, though less so than Oxford. The university has no certain date before 1229: it comprehends seventeen colleges, which in most respects are similar to those of Oxford. King's College Chapel, built in the reign of Henry VI., is considered the most beautiful structure in either of the two university

towns.

PORTSMOUTH, the principal rendezvous of the British navy, is situated on the west side of the Isle of Portsea, in Hampshire. To the west of the island is the bay called Portsmouth Harbour, excelling every other on the coast of England for its spaciousness, depth, and security. The obvious utility of this harbour in such a situation, caused it to be used at an early period as a station for shipping, and hence the rise of the town of Portsmouth on the narrow inlet by which it communicates with the English Channel. It is also to be observed, that the strait between the mouth of this harbour and the Isle of Wight, forms the celebrated roadstead of Spithead, which is capable of containing a thousand sail at anchor in the greatest security. The original or old town of Portsmouth, surrounded by ancient walls; the modern suburban towns of Portsea and Southsea, respectively situated to the north and south of the original town; and the town of Gosport, on the opposite side of the inlet to the harbour, may all be said to form one cluster of population, probably numbering not less than 100,000. The beach opposite Southsea being well adapted for sea-bathing, has caused that suburb or village to become a watering-place of some note.

The docks, arsenal, building-yards, and all the various other establishments concerned with the fitting out and safe keeping of the national ship

ping, render Portsmouth an object of wonder to all who see it for the first time. The Dock-yard includes the great area of 100 acres. The Smithery is a vast building, where anchors are wrought, weighing from seventy to ninety hundred weight each. On the Anchor-Wharf hundreds of these useful implements are piled up, ready for immediate service. The Ropery, where the cordage for the vessels is prepared, is three stories high, 54 feet broad, and 1094 feet long. The Gun-Wharf is an immense arsenal, consisting of various ranges of buildings for the reception of naval and military stores, artillery, &c. The Small Armory is capable of containing 25,000 stand of arms. There is a naval college, where a hundred scholars, in time of war, and seventy in time of peace, are taught; thirty, who are the children of officers, being maintained and educated at the public expense. During war, the number of persons employed in the various establishments connected with the public service at Portsmouth has amounted to 5000. The principal buildings connected with the arsenal and dockyards, are the commissioner's house, the government house, the victualling office, the portadmiral's house, and the naval and military barracks. The promenade along the fortifications forms one of the most agreeable features of the town. Among objects of curiosity, we may specify the Victory, Nelson's flag-ship at Trafalgar; the Semapore Telegraph; and the house (No. 110 Highstreet) in which the Duke of Buckingham was temporarily residing, when, in front of it, he was stabbed to death by Lieutenant Felton, in 1628. The church of Portsmouth is a spacious Gothic structure, with a comparatively modern tower, useful as a landmark to seamen. There are various charitable institutions connected with the town, chiefly, however, for the relief of disabled and sick seamen.

PLYMOUTH is another important naval-station, besides being a thriving commercial town. It is situated at the head of the spacious haven of Plymouth Sound, in Devonshire, on the east side of a tongue of land formed by the estuaries of the rivers Plym and Tamar, which here empty themselves into the sea. Essentially connected with Plymouth is Devonport, situated in the immediate neighbourhood, and properly an appendage of Plymouth, though of late years distinguished by a separate name. Plymouth having gradually risen from the condition of a small fishing-town to its present size, most of the streets are irregular, and by no means elegant or commodious; but the new parts of the town are handsome, and are spreading rapidly.

Plymouth carries on a considerable trade in timber with North America and the Baltic, and an intercourse has been established with the West Indies. The coasting trade is chiefly with London, Newcastle, Newport, (in Wales,) and Bristol. The chief imports are coal, culm, corn, wine, and

timber.

It is as a naval and military station that the town is chiefly distinguished. Situated upon a capacious and secure natural harbour, near the mouth of the English Channel, it is well adapted for this purpose, fleets having a ready exit from it upon any expedition towards the Mediterranean, the Indies, or America. The dock, which is situated at Devonport, (formerly on that account called Plymouth Dock,) extends along the bank of the Tamar, in a curve 3500 feet in length, with a width at the middle, where it is greatest, of 1600 feet, and at each extremity 1000, thus including an area of 96 acres. Of the fortifications connected with Plymouth, the most remarkable is the citadel, which was erected in the reign of Charles II. It is placed in a most commanding situation on the east end of the height called

the Hoe, which shelters the town from the sea. It is exceedingly well fortified, and is constantly garrisoned. It contains the residence of the Governor of Plymouth, and barracks for five or six hundred troops. The Victualling Office, an important establishment, containing storehouses, granaries, baking-houses, and cellars for supplying the meat, bread, and liquors required to provision the vessels of the Royal Navy, occupies a splendid building in the adjacent township of East Stonehouse. The port of Plymouth is distinguished for its capacity, and the security which it affords in its several parts. It is capable of containing 2000 sail, and is one of the finest harbours in the world. It consists of three divisions or harbours-Sutton Pool, immediately adjoining the town; Cutwater, an extensive sheet, formed by the estuary of the Plym; and the harbour or bay of Hamoaze. At the mouth of these harbours, the great bay of Plymouth Sound forms an excellent roadstead, which is now completely secure by the erection of the breakwater across its entrance. This work is an insulated mole, or vast heap of stones, stretching across the entrance of the sound so far as to leave a passage for vessels at either end, and opposing a barrier to the heavy swell rolling in from the Atlantic. Its length is 1700 yards, the eastern extremity being about 60 fathoms to the eastward of St. Carlos's Rocks, and the western, 300 west of the Shovel Rock. The middle part is continued in a straight line 1000 yards, and the two extremities incline towards the northern side of the straight part in an angle of about 120 degrees. This great work was begun August 12, 1812. During its progress convincing proofs of its efficacy and utility were afforded. The expense of erecting the breakwater is estimated at £1,171,100. The Eddystone Light-house is an important appendage to the harbour, the entrance of which would, without this beacon, be extremely dangerous.

The public buildings of Plymouth are, the Custom-house, the Exchange, the Athenæum, the Public Library, the Theatre, the Classical and Mathematical School, the Mechanics' Institute, &c. Of the two parish churches, the most ancient is that of St. Andrew, built previously to 1291, a handsome building of the Gothic order; Charles's Church is also a Gothic structure. Among the charitable institutions, which are about thrirty, are a work-house, a public dispensary, an eye-infirmary, a lying-in-charity, a public subscription school, almshouses, Bible societies, &c.

BATH is reckoned the best built town in England, and is a favorite residence of the higher classes, either for recreation or in pursuit of health. It is situated in Somersetshire, at the distance of about 108 miles west from London, and lies in a valley divided by the River Avon. Though of great antiquity, the place came into notice and rose to importance in comparatively modern times, in consequence of possessing certain hot mineral springs, considered to be efficacious in the cure of different complaints. The water issues from the ground at a temperature of 109° to 117 of Fahrenheit, and the quantity discharged daily from the various outlets is 154,320 gallons. The water has been analyzed, and is found to contain sulphate of lime, with considerably lesser proportions of muriate of soda, sulphate of soda, carbonic acid, and carbonate of lime, also a minute portion of silica and oxide of iron. It is stimulating in its properties, and is said to be most successful in cases of palsy, rheumatism, gout, and cutaneous diseases. Over the springs there are elegant pump-rooms and baths. The modern parts of the town are built as streets, crescents, and squares, the houses being of polished sandstone, and in some instances constructed with much taste. Living is expensive in the town during the fashionable season.