resting place at the inn, and made arrangements | racter. Of course, the days of other years have for the night; but the Presbyterian minister, the been reviewed, and the names and characters of Rev. M. L. Farnsworth, compelled me to receive many valued friends, who are now at rest, have his hospitality. My name and mission were fami- come before the mind. liar to him, and I found myself at once in the dwelling of a friend. Having so many religions newspapers, information is circulated in all directions through the United States; so that if the deputation had travelled to the farthest West and South, the object of the mission, and the hospitality of the people, would at once have secured a cordial reception.

Elmira contains a scattered population of three thousand persons. There are four places of worship, viz. Presbyterian, Episcopalian, Baptist, and Methodist. The Sunday scholars are four hundred. The communicants are about five hundred; the regular congregations about twelve hundred. There is a temperance society, which has been the means of reclaiming some notorious drunkards. It consists of four hundred members.

I left on the morning of the 2d, in a private conveyance, for Athens. An incident occurred during the journey, which, in my non-adventurous life, might be called an adventure. It will amuse the young people to learn, that I encountered a rattlesnake. No harm, however, resulted to me, or to any one else, except to the creature itself. It might, no doubt, have proved rather a serious matter, and I wish to view it as a providential deli

verance.

We had proceeded about half way, and were travelling along a part of the road called the Narrowing. On the left there was a perpendicular rock, about a hundred feet in height; and on the right hand, was the river Shemung, about fifteen feet below us, and rather deep at that place. The young man who drove the carriage suddenly drew up the reins, exclaiming, "There is a snake before us;" and in a moment added, "It is a rattlesnake." He instantly proposed to kill it. There seemed a necessity for doing so, as there was no way by which we could pass it, the road was so narrow, and the fore-feet of the horse were within two feet of the reptile. Our chief danger was that of the horse becoming frightened, and throwing us into the river beneath. We got out; I held the reins, after drawing the horse a little backwards, while my companion struck the snake with his whip. He did not succeed; and it began to coil itself and rattled; but before it could spring at him, he had struck it again and stunned it. It was then easily despatched. It was about three feet in length, and beautifully spotted. It had eight rings, or rattles, and was consequently about eleven years old. This little incident led me to look more narrowly at the sides of the road. It was, perhaps, owing to this circumstance that I did happen to see a greater number of what are called garter snakes, and a larger kind called the black snake, both, however, quite harmless.

Yesterday (4th July) was to me a day of trial, and of duty. You may recollect, when now reminded, that one of the greatest days of the year, in this country, is that on which the "Declaration of Independence" was signed. It is variously commemorated, according to the taste and feelings of the people. The common way, some years ago, was to have public meetings to have the Declaration read; after which, some youthful orator would deliver a bombastic declamation on the subjects of tyranny, oppression, injustice, freedom, and so forth. The minds of the hearers being predisposed, it was not, perhaps, very difficult to produce feelings of resentment and jealousy against Great Britain. Now, there is a change for the better. It is, indeed, still considered desirable by many that there should be meetings, and that the Declaration should be read, but in connection with religious services, or Temperance Society anniversaries. In these ways good may result from the observance of the day. Others are beginning to think that it is neither wise nor proper thus to give a yearly provocation to cherish alienated feelings. They are of opinion, that respect for their national dignity, and regard for the "Father Land," may be better shown by forgetting than by remembering, the harsh deeds of former generations.

I was invited to give an address on the Fourth of July! I refused. The request was repeated, with the additional argument, that it was a religious service they wanted. I consented, after telling them that I must state the truth, and it would be their own fault if they found it unpleasant. I need not describe the whole service. It was strictly religious, except the reading of the Declaration, in which I had no share, as you may suppose. I found it rather difficult to address them after such a manifesto. It was a new scene, and a new duty to me; and while attempting to arrange my thoughts, I found myself annoyed by a brisk firing of rifles, and by the shouts of assembling youth at no great distance. I tried, however, to improve the occasion for doing good. I adverted to the peculiarity of my situation as a British subject, and the object of my coming to this country. Considering that it was on a mission of peace, I could not but regret to hear a subject introduced which was calculated to excite angry and tumultuous feelings. I asked them if they loved their liberty, their institutions, and their country. If they did, surely, then, patriotism might be kept alive, without an annual recitation of evils they had endured fifty or sixty years ago. And if the rising generation were properly instructed in the great principles of liberty and justice, they would hate oppression, and be sufficiently courageous in defending their rights. I hinted that there was a I arrived at Towanda, where I remained all night. danger of the day becoming simply a commemoraOn the 3d of July, I arrived at Orwell, and I need tion of a political event, without connecting with it only say, that my relatives were much delighted to the goodness of God in conferring upon them civil see me. After a separation of twenty-six years, it and religious privileges-that they might be looking was not surprising that we were unable to recognise to the men of the revolution rather than to God, each other. I found that my relation occupied a whose hand alone had secured their deliverance. Í very interesting field of pastoral labor, in the midst wished them to view it as an evil omen, when mere of an intelligent and pious, though unpolished peo- orators, statesmen, and politicians, commemorated ple. His parish (for the divisions are frequently the day in such a manner, as to excite irritated feelcalled by that name) is nearly six miles square. I ings against a country to which they were under inam glad of this retirement, after the excitement and numerable obligations, and the inhabitants of which fatigue of public meetings and journeyings. A few could not now wish them to be subject to British dodays would be of great service if I could only be minion, but rather rejoiced in their liberty and proskept quiet. Of this, however, I have, at present, perity. I expressed my hope, that if it was neceslittle hope; for public engagements are already sary to remember the day, it would be a religious made for me, for nearly every day that I am to be commemoration-a day of praise-of devout achere. My present feelings are of a mingled cha-knowledgment, for their many and peculiar advan

It was

The morning was lovely. The heat had not yet | instance, the school-house and church were found become intense, and animated nature appeared to near the centre of the village. But when the fear rejoice. The insects sporting in the sun-beams of attack from the Indians was removed, and larger were innumerable. Seldom have I seen more ad- plantations were obtained, the settlers became more mirable specimens, both of the insect and feathered widely separated from each other, and it became tribes. The butterflies were exceedingly numerous, more difficult to get them to unite in erecting places large, and beautiful. The bees, wild and domestic, of worship, and in obtaining a regular ministrywere filling the air with their soft murmurs; and Those who might be inclined to keep "holy the in the woods we saw varieties of the woodpecker, Sabbath," were seldom able to do this by their own and squirrels in abundance. They seemed to court exertions alone. To remedy this evil, societies the presence of man, rather than to shun it. The were formed, in connection with neighboring condomestic animals were enjoying the rest of the Sab-gregations, in order to assist the people. This was bath; and man, the only creature on earth that ever done by sending Christian missionaries, who might failed to answer the end of his existence, seemed plant the standard of the cross, and gather around this morning in some measure to be alive to his high it the scattered population. There was no desire, destiny. The cottages and plantations were thinly on the part of the supporters of these institutions, to scattered, and yet considerable numbers were on the deprive the people of their rights, by placing over road, the throng increasing as they approached them ministers not chosen by themselves. It was nearer to the sanctuary of God. I was pleased to simply carrying into effect the apostolic method of observe, that though a full proportion of the people extending the gospel. After a people had been colthat we passed were aged persons, not one old person lected and converted, they left them to choose their was walking. The young people were either walk- own pastors; but till this could be done, they gave ing, or on horseback, while the parents, the grand- them that Christian aid, which it is the duty of befathers and grandmothers, were comfortably seated lievers in Christ to do in all similar cases. in their wagons or dearborns. The place of wor- in this way that the gospel was introduced, and beship holds about four hundred persons, and it was came successful in this immediate district. Happifilled. After the morning service, which, of course, ly the first settlers were from New England. Their as the stranger, I had to conduct, there was an in- love to divine ordinances, and their early applicaterval of only a few minutes before the second ser- tion for the services of a Christian missionary, gave vice began. This plan is adopted to accommodate a decided tone to the character of the place. I was the people who come from a distance, and is indeed pleased to learn, that, in most cases, the inmates customary in some parts of our own country. The of the cottages were either members of Christian heat was very oppressive, being 86° by Fahrenheit, churches, or regularly attended on the preaching and you may easily suppose how I felt while preach of the gospel. ing. I could not do as some of my hearers did, and which, I understand, is customary in country places, during the sermon; they had taken off their coats! I did not wonder that they were glad to dispense with this article of dress on such a day. It had, however, a singular appearance, to see some fifty or sixty men in such a condition, in a place of worship. But they were in the midst of friends; it was usual, and no remarks were made. In the interval of service, the place of general resort was a well hard by; and never did the simple beverage of nature taste sweeter than to-day. In going to and returning from worship, while a variety of dwellings in succession met my eye, my friends furnished me also with a glance at the history of some of their inhabitants.

In a country like ours, twenty cottages in a village may present few incidents worthy of notice, for the history of one is mainly the history of all; but, in the settling of a new district like this, the difficulties and privations, the successes and the disappointments, that occur, call into operation talents and energies, which, in other circumstances, might never be developed. Character is brought out, and the progress of society is more easily marked, than in older countries. One of the chief dangers connected with a new and thinly scattered population, is the temptation they are under to neglect religion. This arises, not so much from the want of a place in which to meet, for they can easily, by uniting their time and labor, erect a log church, large enough for their numbers; but because, for several years, their life must be one of incessant toil and anxiety, in order to secure the necessaries of life. In such circumstances, if the day of rest is observed at all, it is apt to become a day of indolence or worldly pleasure. Especially is this the case, if there be a few of the settlers who set a different example. The early mode of settling in this country is not now much practised. Formerly settlers of a new territory formed a village, from which their plantations diverged in different directions. This was for mutual defence and benefit. And, in every

On returning, we again saw groupes of people hastening to the sanctuary beside the pastor's dwelling, but it was a mournful occasion that brought them together--the funeral of one who had been cut down in the morning of life. Wishing to see their mode of conducting such solemn services, I also repaired to the place. The youth's father belonged to a different denomination, and his own minister had come to preach a funeral sermon, which I understand is customary at the time of interment.— The corpse was brought into the place of worship, and placed on a stand beneath the pulpit. After the discourse, the mourners accompanied the body to the burying-ground, where, without any farther ceremony, it was committed to the grave.

I deeply regretted that, on such an occasion, when so many persons were assembled, the individual officiating should so lamentably fail in his statement of truth. If at any time the mind should be solemn, and disposed to listen to the voice of instruction and comfort, it is when the heart is softened, and the conscience awakened, by the presence of death.— And surely a minister of Christ should seek to improve such an opportunity. But the preacher studiously avoided addressing the ignorant, the inquiring, or the penitent. He had no message, no invitation, no counsel, no consolation, for them. He spoke only of covenant privileges, and this he did unscripturally. A stranger, ignorant of religion, could not have learnt from his discourse that there was any salvation for sinners, any way by which man could be redeemed. And what made the omission of the gospel more distressing was, that in the history of the youth whose mortal remains were there, there was much to alarm and impress the hearts of the young. But all was passed by unnoticed and unimproved. Need I tell you that the preacher was a Hyper-Calvinist? I am glad to add, that only a few persons attend on his ministry.

On the 7th of July the annual meeting of the Bible and Missionary Societies was held. After a brief address, respecting the objects which these institutions have in view, the members proceeded to

through the plantation had only about forty acres in wood; but without difficulty, from a small number of trees, he obtained about one hundred and fifty pounds weight of sugar in the season. A maple grove may, therefore, be considered as a valuable having few dollars at their command. He had collected the sap of the trees for a number of years, and, as far as could be judged by appearances, they had not been injured by the process of tapping.

transact the business of the meeting. It was pleasant to witness, in this remote corner, the orderly and practical habits of the people. Each individual who took a part in the proceedings seemed to understand business well. The officers were chosen, and the collectors appointed. I particularly observ-possession to new settlers distant from towns, and ed their strict adherence to constitutional rules, and how they managed to apportion the responsibility among the different members of the committee. But what amused me more than any thing else, was the circumstance, that the chairman, who was a man of considerable property in the neighborhood, was without his coat; and several of the speakers were in the same cool and airy situation. It did look rather singular, after the very different scenes I had witnessed in the large cities a month or two before. I was glad, however, to see that the same principles influenced men in very different circumstances; and that, too, without the excitement and eclat of large public meetings. Here I found Christians pursuing regular plans of usefulness, in undress certainly, yet promoting the same great objects with the wealthy and more refined inhabitants of New York and Boston. When I state that the thermometer was ninety-two in the shade on the day of meeting, you need not be surprised at what I have named. If it were as hot in England, probably the same custom would prevail in country villages.

It appears that some of the early settlers in this part of the State met with severe losses at first in the purchase of lands, owing to the rival claims between the States of Pennsylvania and Connecticut. The latter, on the ground of some ancient grant, or purchase, from the Indians, sold large quantities of land to private speculators. The former afterwards asserted their right, and upon trial it was decided in their favor, so that those who had purchased lots from the speculators found their titles worthless, and lost both their money and their land.

The 9th was one of the warmest days that I have met with in this country. When I tell you it was 93° in the shade, and that I had to conduct a religious service in a Methodist chapel in the afternoon, you can, in some measure, imagine the inconvenience that I felt from the heat. It was really overpowering both to preacher and hearers. I have not had time to be seasoned, and perhaps felt it more than the natives of the place.

On the 10th, I went to Wysox, about fourteen miles from this place, to meet with a number of ministers and elders. My object was to learn from them the state of religion in this and the neighboring counties. I found the utmost readiness to communicate all the information which they could. I was glad, also, to hear expressions of kind feeling from them towards all the Christians of our beloved country. Besides the present state of religion, I was desirous to ascertain how far the absence of support from the State legislature had affected it; and to know their opinion respecting the working of the scriptural method of sustaining and extending the preaching of the gospel in this newly settled district of country. It is not necessary to give even the substance of a conversation that occupied two or three hours. It is sufficient to give the result. With regard to the state of religion, it was the decided opinion of all who were present, that it was making I called, in the afternoon, on one settler, who en-progress in this and in the neighboring counties; tered on his plantation some twenty years ago. It and that, in some places particularly, great and consists of about three hundred acres, of which beneficial changes had been effected. With regard about one hundred and thirty are cleared. Of to the question of State support for religion, there course, there is not a field without large stumps of was but one expression of opinion. They firmly trees, notwithstanding which, it appeared to pro- and unequivocally stated their abhorrence of such mise good crops, especially of grass. In the course a plan, or of the State interfering, in any way, with of conversation, he expressed a desire to dispose of the selection or appointment of ministers. All they his plantation, and retire to a less fatiguing life than sought from the Government was protection, and that of farming. I was curious to know the value freedom for all denominations, to exert themselves of such a property. He mentioned to me that it in promoting religion according to their own views. produced the ordinary crops, except wheat, and They considered that a grant of money from Conthat it was chiefly meadow, and fed fifty or sixty gress to support religious teachers, if it could by head of cattle. He was willing to sell the planta- possibility be obtained, would be a curse instead of tion, including the dwelling-house and all the out a blessing; and that the only way by which the pubuildings, for 2,500 dollars (about 5501.) I thought|rity and efficiency of the Christian ministry could be how glad a farmer of small capital in our country secured, was to give the people the privilege of would be to secure support for a family, and at once choosing and supporting their own pastors. If, in enter on a property which might be purchased by some cases, owing to the limited numbers of the two or three years' rent of a farm at home not much people, or their poverty, they were unable to suplarger than the one we are speaking of in the pre-port a minister, they considered it safest for neighsent instance. And in this case, there would be no boring churches to assist, still leaving all power in spiritual deprivation, for the gospel is faithfully pro- the hands of the people; so that they could invite claimed in the parish, not only by the Presbyterian the minister most likely to benefit them, after they minister, but also by other denominations. It would, had become able to discriminate between one preachhowever, require great personal labor, and unwea- er and another. ried industry, and would hardly answer unless there were several sons in the family. Manual labor is so expensive, that few owners of small plantations can afford to hire men-servants. There is no class in newly settled districts analogous to what we call "gentlemen farmers." The highest and lowest departments of farming operations are filled by the owner of the property. He must be able and willing to put his hand to any thing, or every thing, that demands his aid.

I examined to-day (the 8th) the plan of obtaining maple sugar. The person who accompanied me

I inquired if it would be incompatible with their views to receive grants from the State Legislature to build places of religious worship. They answered, that their objections to such a plan were many. They considered that it would encourage indifference among the people, if others should do what it was their duty and privilege to perform themselves, as much as to build their own dwellings. That, in their country, the great principle being acknowledged and acted upon, that all sects are equal in the eye of the law; grants could not be made to any denomination, without producing jealousies, and

forming a source of heart-burnings, most destructive to Christian love, and to the prosperity of religion. That alienation and religious feuds would be the result among them instead of harmony and Christian co-operation. If, to remove this difficulty, all denominations should receive aid, according to the number of adherents in particular places, without any reference to truth or error, it would at once be giving the money of the friends of truth to the support of errors which they abhorred. If, again, the denomination which formed the majority of the people should be nominated by the State the National religion, and assisted accordingly, it would place itself under the control of the State, for no human government is disposed to give its patronage without some return. The quid pro quo is as well understood in such matters as in political affairs. And these ministers stated it as their firm conviction, that there was not one denomination in this land who would accept of such State patronage. Two circumstances would prevent them, viz. that it would be an act of injustice to others, who supported their own religious services and ministers; and it would be giving up their Christian liberties, into the hands of men, generally ignorant about religion, and who in no age ever legislated on the subject without doing the cause of truth the greatest injury.

I have been travelling early and late, I have much enjoyed my journey. When I tell you, that I have taken six days and three nights to get to this place, (about two hundred and fifty miles,) you may suppose how far we are removed from the facilities of English travelling. We left Orwell shortly after I wrote my last letter, on the 14th of July, and, as there was no stage coach the route I intended to take, my relative was kind enough to accompany me, in his family wagon, for about one hundred miles, till I got into the great line of road to the West. We managed the first day to travel about forty miles, and reached a small town, called by the Indian name, Tunkhannock. The whole road was hilly, and in one part, lay across a mountain of considerable height. The openings in the forest, next the roads, were covered with beautiful shumachs, and rhododendrons; the flower of the latter had passed away, but the shumachs were in full leaf, and the blossom ready to display itself. Some parts of the scenery greatly delighted me. The ground was so covered, in some places, by large and loose stones, that it required considerable management to escape an overturn. We had not allowed ourselves sufficient time to get to our intended place of destination, before day-light departed; and here darkness comes suddenly There is no lingering twilight to warn us of the need of haste, before the When it is considered that some of the churches shades of night fall on the traveller. We were conwhich these men represented are dependent for aid sequently benighted. The road was narrow and on the Home Missionary Society, connected with imperfectly formed in some places. The moon apthe Presbyterian church, we cannot but admire their peared, but it did us little good, as the trees were of disinterestedness in preferring the present mode, great height, and so close together. In addition to because they believed it would secure greater purity the darkness and the awkwardness of the path, a and efficiency to their churches. For, in these cases, storm came on; and, in this country, storms are no State support, or compulsory taxation, would proba-trifling matters. I do not remember ever to have bly have afforded a more permanent, if not a more liberal, provision.

The result of the meeting is a conviction that, in none of the old settled States had the efficiency of Christian principle been put to a severer test than in the northern part of Pennsylvania; and that, notwithstanding every obstacle, it promised to supply the people, not only with places of worship, but also with ministers well educated and zealous in their work, and prepared to elevate the character of a new population.

I have spent another Sabbath at Orwell very satisfactorily. During my visit to this place, I have mingled much with the people. I have been in many of their dwellings, and have seen a good deal of their domestic arrangements. I have tried to ascertain the feelings which the different denominations cherish towards each other. I find that there is a spirit of competition among some of them, but it is destitute of that bitterness and sectarianism which prevail so widely in our country. No one sect has any reason to consider itself as superior to all others, and the others have no cause to complain that they are oppressed and injured by a State religion. One of the deacons is an Episcopalian, and, not long ago, the bishop of the diocese visited him, and a few of similar sentiments in the district, and, on that occasion, preached in the Presbyterian

church.

observed such continued and vivid flashes of lightning, and such tremendous peals of thunder. The horse had to be led for several miles through the forest. With considerabie difficulty we arrived, without injury, at our inn, about ten or eleven o'clock. The tempest abated for a little while; but, about midnight, it burst forth again. I never trembled before during a thunder-storm, but this one really produced alarm. It appeared as if the whole atmosphere was on fire, and the roll of the thunder was so loud and long continued, and so near, that it felt as if all nature was crumbling into ruins. We were mercifully preserved; but I ascertained, from some of the local newspapers, a few days afterwards, that very great injury had been done both to crops and buildings, by the storm, of that evening, particularly in the valley of Wyoming.

The

I had hardly had time to dress, on the Tuesday morning, about five o'clock, when a summons came, requesting me to repair to a school-room, where some Christians were assembled for prayer. I was taken by surprise, but I went immediately, and it was interesting to find, at that early hour, nearly twenty persons met for such a purpose. The meeting was composed of some of the most respectable people in the place. It was a weekly service, and had been found useful to those who engaged in it; and the hour had been fixed thus early, because six o'clock, or half-past, is the usual time for breakfast. particulars related to me afterwards, respecting this little company, and the state of religion in the place, were interesting. The village had been remarkable for wickedness, the people having given themselves up to many excesses. Means had been used to do them good, but in vain. The state of things MY DEAR FRIEND-I have been delayed on my became worse, and the ministers in the neighborJourney to Pittsburgh, by the difficulties of travel- hood determined to make another effort to stem the ling in this elevated region. I am now on the west-progress of irreligion. They met in the place, and ern side of the principal range of the Allegany | held a protracted meeting. The religious services Mountains. Rough as the roads were, fatigued as were continued for some days, and the blessing of

I shall soon leave for Pittsburgh, where I expect to meet with Mr. Reed, who parted from me on Lake Erie.

LETTER VII.