The moccasin is fastened to the ankle by a buckskin thong passed around the top through a number of holes, which permit it to slide easily while being fastened.

The garters above referred to are made by the women in such patterns as they may be able to design or elaborate. There is a general type of diamond and lozenge shape outlines, sometimes of solid colors, though more frequently filled in by sharply contrasting tints. Frets, vines, and meanders also are common. The accompanying illustrations (plates XXV-XXIX) will better convey an idea of the variety of patterns in use by Menomini beadworkers.

Many if not all of these designs used in beadworking have been introduced among the Menomini by intercourse with the Ojibwa, with whom they have been friendly neigh

bors from the earliest historic times. This is shown not only by the identical patterns existing among both tribes, but is evident also from the frequent intertribal traffic, existing even at this day. So late as 1891 a specially appointed delegation left Red Lake, Minnesota, to visit all the Ojibwa and Menomini settlements in southern Minnesota and in Wisconsin, to gather every available large specimen of beadwork for traffic with the Arikara and Hidatsa of North Dakota, from whom the northern Ojibwa obtain horses. Annual visits were made by the Ojibwa to these tribes, and the latter would, in time, procure more horses, in exchange for the beadwork from the Crows of Montana. In this manner the Ojibwa and Menomini beadwork gradually found its way as far west as the Selish Indians, in northwestern Idaho, from whom examples have been recovered.

Recently some enterprising individuals have introduced machinemade beadwork and disposed of it through the traders. The original methods of making it, as pursued by the Indian women, is slow and difficult, and in no instance do they appear to receive a fair compensation for their labor. The work is usually done without the aid of patterns or diagrams. There are three processes of embroidering with beads, and as all the work, excepting that in which the beads are sewed directly on cloth or buckskin, is made by a definite system, a

description of the process may be of interest, especially as this subject has hitherto been untouched.

After deciding on the article to be worked-a garter, for examplea frame of wood is made sufficiently large to extend from 4 to 6 inches beyond the finished piece. Figure 45 represents a frame of this character. The pieces of wood are usually of pine, 2 inches broad and from a half to three-fourths of an inch thick, made rigid by screws or thongs, where the pieces intersect. Threads of linen are then wrapped vertically over the top and bottom, each thread being a bead's width from the next. In some instances, as will be referred to later, the threads are wrapped so as to run by pairs. These form the warp. The number of threads depends on the width of the proposed design.

The pattern is begun at the lower end, several inches from the frame. A fine needle is threaded, the other end of the fiber being secured to one of the lateral threads of the warp; then the needle is passed through a bead of the desired tint of the ground color of the garter, and the thread passed under one vertical or warp cord; another bead is then taken up, after which the needle is pushed along over the next

cord; and then another bead being threaded, the needle is again passed along under the next following cord, and so on alternately above and beneath the warp cords until the other side is reached, when the outer cord is merely inclosed by one turn. The same process is followed in the return to the side from which the beginning was made, except that the threads alternate, the woof being now above instead of below the warp cords. Figure 46 represents the process described.

The chief difficulty which one encounters is in remembering the exact point at which a new pattern should appear, as the color of the bead required for this must be inserted at the proper time and the number of spaces carefully counted and reserved for use as the pattern is developed. Reference to the illustrations will aid further in the elucidation of this difficulty. When the design is completed, the warpcords are gathered by bunches of two's or three's and tied in knots, so as to prevent the dislodgment of the woof fibers and the consequent destruction of the entire fabric. To these ends are afterward attached strands of woolen yarn to lengthen the garter, so as to reach around the leg and admit of tying in a bowknot (plate XXV).

The above illustrates the simplest method of working beads. The type of beadworking shown in figure 47 is a little more complicated. In this there are two vertical warp cords or threads between each two

beads, there being an alternate movement of the pair of warp cords backward and forward, thus making it similar in appearance to the preceding pattern, excluding the beads, when the latter are placed sidewise.

The woof thread is run to the side of the garter, and a bead is then passed through and returned in the next upper space, where another row of beads is taken up to continue the design. When the opposite border of the garter is reached, a single bead is again threaded and permitted to extend as a projection to guard the external warp threads against injury.

A third variety of beadwork is effected by using the vertical warp cords as before, but instead of passing the threaded needle through one bead at a time, whenever a vertical thread is passed, the necessary number of beads required to reach across the pattern, as well as the proper arrangement of colors to carry out the design, are threaded and laid down on the warp so that each bead falls within its proper space; then, as the lateral thread is inclosed by the weft thread, the needle is passed back through the same row of beads, but this time beneath the warp instead of above, thus entirely inclosing the weft. This requires a delicate needle and a fine though strong thread. This variety of beadwork is usually found only in gar

ters, whereas the other two forms occur in almost all other kinds of bead objects, such as the sheets used in making medicine bags, in collars, baldrics, belts, and narrow strips, the two ends being fastened together by tying or otherwise. The cord itself

in beads.

is then decorated with beads by sim- FIG. 47-Design of second variety of working ply threading on a single fiber and wrapping this about the primary piece from one end to the other. By a little care in the proper selection and arrangement of colors, very pretty effects are produced.

Beads are stitched on clothing, moccasins, etc, by simply threading one or more beads on the needle and sewing them down along the outlines marked on the outside and afterward the inside of the article which it is designed to ornament.

As a rule, the ends of the pieces of beadwork are at right angles to the direction of the warp, but in many small examples, such as collars or necklaces, the ends terminate diagonally, an effect produced by the successive rows containing one or two beads less than the preceding row, the diagonal side being on one side of the article only, and not divided so as to turn toward a central apex by simultaneously leaving off one or more beads on both sides.

In the third variety of bead-weaving there are only single vertical threads between each two beads as in the first named, but the cross