"The word went forth from heaven, "from Him, in whose hands are all things. "Come hither, I will make thee my friend; approach, for thou shalt henceforth be my champion. Come down from the high hill; leave the seat of sorrow behind thee; "enough hast thou suffered; the tears thou "hast shed are sufficient; thou hast felt "pain and disease; the hour of thy deliver"ance is come; thou art set free from evil "days; peace hasteneth to meet thee; re"lief from grief to come.

"Thus went he out to his maker; he entered into glory; he hastened to extreme "bliss; he departed to enjoy liberty; he quit"ted a life of sorrow; he left the habitations "of the earth."

The following is the production of a girl who could neither read nor write.

"Oh! that my beloved were now here; "that his well-known figure were but before "me! How should I fly into his arms, and "kiss him though his face were besmeared "with the blood of a wolf! How should I his hand, even though a snake were press "twisted round it!

"Alas! why have not the winds understanding? And why is the breeze bereft of speech? The winds might exchange "sentiments betwixt my love and me. The "breezes might every instant carry my "words to him and bring his back to me." "How then would the delicacies of the rector's table be neglected! How inatten"tive should I be to the dress of his daughter! I should leave every thing to attend "on my beloved, who is the dear object of my summer-thoughts and winter-cares." The metrical version of this poem truly abominable. A foreigner, like Mr. Acerbi, cannot be supposed to understand the merits of English poetry; but the English manufacturer of these volumes, whoever he be, should have been asham

is

ed to insert such doggerel, which is nei ther common rhythm, nor common The tale grammar, nor common sense.

of the Paldamo Pasty has been versified in the same miserable and disgraceful

manner,

The last specimen is the fragment of a lullaby song; it is singularly wild.

66

Sleep on, sleep on, sweet bird of the “meadow; take thy rest, little red-breast, "take thy rest; God shall awake thee in good time; He has made thee a little bough to repose thee on; a bough canopied with the leaves of the birch tree; Sleep stands at the door, and says; Is "there not a little child here; lying asleep "in the craddle; a little child wrapped up "in swaddling cloths; a child reposing un"der a coverlet of wool,"

"The last species of poetry, of which we shall make mention, is that which is both common to the Finns and Laplanders; we mean those runic verses which are supposed to be endowed with magical and extraordinary virtues. These songs, which owe their rise to the darkness of gentilism, were not silenced when those nations became enlightened by the gospel; they were even interpolated in the times of papal superstition, for the purpose of deluding the people; and these will probably be the last of the runic verses that will be forgotten, as notwithstanding all the industry of the clergy to root out such prejudices from the minds of the people, the Fians still privately favour and countenance these songs, being strongly of opinion, that they are possessed of secret virtues, and have a superior degree of efficacy when employed.

In point of composition they are considered by many as inestimable monuments of antiquity, and perfect models of genuine runic poetry. They are distinguished by their admirers from the common runic verses sung at public meetings, which by them are accounted profane. Some of a species named lugut, or lecturers, are never sung, but delivered privately in a low murmuring voice, accompanied with horid gesticulations.

"The Finns have many runic verses which are supposed to contain healing powers, and those are styled sanat, or charms; as madansant, charms for the bite of a serpent; tulensanat, charms to cure scalds or burns; raudan sanat, charms to heal wounds, &c. &c.

These charms, as has been already observed, are very numerous; and though not much esteemed by the inhabitants of the sea coast, are in the highest repute amongst those who dwell in the interior and moun

tainous parts of the country. This is likely to continue to be the case as long as the practice of physic remains in the hands of itinerant empirics and ignorant old women,

They jointly with charms use some simple remedies, as salt, milk, brandy, lard, &c. but attribute the cures they perform to the superior efficacy of the verses they sing dur ing the application; the chief theory and foundation of their practice consisting in a belief, with which too they impress their patients very strongly, that their complaints are occasioned by witchcraft, and can only be removed by means of those incanta

tions.

"Of these charms it is not easy to obtain specimens, as they who are versed in them are unwilling to communicate them to literary men, especially when they see them prepare to commit them to writing, as they fear to be reported to the magistrate or clergyman, and punished, or at least chided for their superstition. It is a pity the clergymen will not be at the pains of discriminat ing betwixt the verses which are the production of superstition, and those of an innocent nature. So far are they from attending to this particular, that they do their utmost to discourage runic poetry in general, and without exception; which partly on that account, and more owing to the natural changes which a length of time brings about in all human affairs, are rapidly falling into disuse, and in a few years will be only found in the

relations of travellers."

The intention of the travellers to reach the North Cape was regarded at Uleaborg as a wild and impracticable scheme. They could obtain no information as to the manner or even possibility of summer travelling in Lapland. Even the missionaries had resided there only in the winter. Notwithstand ing this discouraging want of intelligence, two adventurers joined their party. Mr. Julien, the one, was a good naturalist; the other, Mr. Castrein, was minister of Kemi, and had the superintendance of a country comprehending about 900 square English miles. His love of botany induced him to undertake so fatiguing an expedition. At Tornea, Dr. Deutsch, an excellent etymologist, joined them, but as his profession would not admit of a long absence, he engaged to go no farther then Kengis-bruk. The party, however, soon diminished. At Upper Tornea they were lodged at the clergyman's. Throughout all Sweden, except upon the great road, it is the custom for travellers to go directly to the clergyman's house, and ask for a chamber, as they would do at an inn. The clergy are for the most part wealthy, and being always superior to the people among whom they are settled, they gladly welcome strangers. Their host Their host

here had an organ in his church, the most northern church in Europe that has such an instrument. He gave them rein-deer which had been frozen eight months in his cellars; the meat was perHere Mr. Castrein left fectly good.

them and turned back.

They were now in a country where there was no land travelling, neither roads, nor horses, nor carriages of any kind. The rivers are the only means of communication, and the difficulties which these present are very formidable.

stony

boatmen took down their sail and shewed us Having arrived at Kattila Koski, the their address in ascending against the rapid current of the cataracts. Kattila Koski is a long series of water-falls, formed by the bed of the river, and by huge rocks which rise above the surface of the water. These cataracts are particularly famous on the map, division of the globe known by the name of as being the place which corresponds to that the Polar Circle. To ascend in a small boat such a formidable succession of cataracts, where the water is almost every where rolling down in a foam, would at first sight seem impossible; but nothing is impossible to

man,

whom habits have rendered familiar to danger. Those Finlandish Laplanders, bewhat perhaps is of still more consequencesides an address peculiar to themselves, have the most perfect coolness and apathy. They take their places, one at the head and the other at the stern of the canoe, and with a` long pole which they thrust to the bottom of the river, find their point of resistance, and thus push the boat against the stream. This pole is made of a pine, and about fifwith all their strength to the bottom, in order teen feet long; they are obliged to throw it impels it backwards. It is an Herculean lato overcome the current which constantly bour; besides, it requires infinite practice to guide and manage the boat, forming, as circumstances demand, many a sharp angle, amidst a multitude of obstacles. The most disagreeable, and at the same time the most dangerous situation is, the man resting by accident the end of his pole upon a rock of a smooth or round surface, in the moment that he applies to it the whole weight and force of his body; if the pole slips from under him, he falls in an instant headlong into the river, and the passenger immediately gives himself up for lost. The Laplander, however, quickly recovers himself, and prepares to repeat the same operation; but it soinetimes happens that the current gets the ascendant and drives the boat astern. In this Loatman is exerted to keep the head of the critical juncture the whole address of the boat directly opposed to the stream, till he is again in a condition to push her forward; and above all, to prevent her laying her side

to the current, as in that position, by presenting a larger surface to the water, she would instantly be overset."

At Kengis three more of the party took their leave, only colonel Skioldebrand with his servant remaining with Mr. Acerbi. Even their resolution was shaken the next stage, when a thick smoke was kindled in the room as the only defence against the gnats. In the Album at Jukasjervi they had read an ominous sentence, written by a Frenchman on his return from Lapland. Multum fui et terris jactatus & cataractis, multum quoque et culicibus passus. From this stage to Muonionisca is sixty-six miles by the river, in opposition to the current and to continued cataracts. The ascent is terrific, but on their return the travellers ventured to descend this tremendous

stream.

"Let him imagine a place where the river is so hemmed in by narrow banks, and so 'compressed with rugged and shelving rocks, that the current is doubled in its rapidity; let him moreover represent to his mind the formidable inequalities in the bed of the river, occasioned by those rocks, which can only be passed by a sort of leap, and consequently make the water extremely turbulent; let him conceive that, for the space of an English mile, this river continues in the same state and let him, after all this, consider the hazard to which a boat must be exposed that ventures itself on such a surface, where 'both the nature of the channel, and the amazing velocity of the current, seem to conspire to its destruction. You cannot perform this passage by simply following the stream; but the boat must go with an accelerated quickness, which should be at least double to that of the current. Two boatmen the most active and robust that can be found, must use their utmost exertions in rowing the whole time, in order that the boat may overcome the force of the stream; white one person is stationed at the helm to regulate its direction as circumstances may require. The rapidity of this descent is such, that you accomplish an English mile in the space of three or four minutes. The man that manages the rudder can, with difficulty, see the rocks he must keep clear of: he turns the head of the boat directly in the line of the rock he means to pass, and when he is in the very instant of touching it, he suddenly makes a sharp angle and leaves it behind him. The trembling passenger thinks he shall see the boat dashed in a thousand pieces, and the moment after he is astonished at his own exist

ence.

Add to all this, that the waves rush

into the boat from all sides, and drench you to the skin; while at other times, a billow will dash over the boat from side to side, and scarcely touch you. It is a situation which

presents danger in such frightful shapes, that you could hardly open your eyes and refrain from trembling, though a person with the greatest certainty should assure you that you would not suffer any harm. Several people, however, have perished in this place; and there were but two men in the village of to conduct the descent; these were an old Muonio who thought themselves qualified man of sixty-seven years of age, and his son of twenty-six. The old boatman had known this passage twenty years, and navigated it always with success, and in the course of that period he had taught his son his own dangerous calling. It is impossible to conceive any thing more striking and interesting than the collected and intrepid expression of the old man's countenance in the progress of the passage. As our resolution to descend this cataract was not adopted rashly, but after a minute inquiry and cool reflection, we were prepared to observe the detail of our adventure in its most trifling circumstances. The old man never sat down, but stood upright, holding the rudder with both hands, which was tied on purpose for the occasion to the stern of the boat. In passing the smaller cataracts, they descend with the rudder untied, which they hold between their When we were arms, and sit all the while. in the most critical moments of the passage, we had only to cast our eye on the old man's countenance, and our fears almost instantly vanished. In places of less difficulty he looked round to his son, to observe if he had proceeded with safety. It was plain his thoughts were more occupied about his son than himself; and indeed the young man grazed the rocks on two different occasions. As soon as all danger was over, we drew in to the shore to repose and enjoy the triumph of our success. It was then that we remarked that the son, who had piloted the second boat, looked extremely pale through terror; and my companion's servant, who had been in the boat, informed us that they had received two violent shocks, and that upon both occasions he gave himself up for lost."

Muonionisca is a village containing about sixteen houses. The parish extends about 200 square miles. So thinly, peopled, indeed, is this country, that whoever is disposed to establish himself there, must fix himself at the distance of six miles from the bounds of the nearest villages, and all the land for six miles round him becomes his own by right of possession. The clergyman of this place had lost his library and his wardrobe by his clerical paraphernalia except a pair a fire, from which he had saved none of of black breeches. It is very much to the credit of the Swedish clergy that this is the only one of the fraternity of whom

Mr. Acerbi does not give a favourable

character.

The weather was now so hot that the travellers determined to rest by day and pursue their journey by night. They left Muonionisca on the 1st of July about ten at night, and proceeded up the river to a little settlement called Pallajovenio, the proper boundary of Lapland. From hence they continued their voyage up the Muonio. Here the scenery became completely Laplandish.

"The moss on which the rein-deer feeds covers the whole ground, which is flat, and only skirted by hills at some distance; but

these hills are also clothed with this moss.

The colour of the moss is a pale yellow, which, when dry, changes to white: the regularity of its shape, and the uniform manner in which the surface of the ground is decked with it, appears very singular and striking: it has the semblance of a beautiful carpet. These plants grow in a shape nearly ccago nal, and approaching to a circle; and as they closely join each other, they forin a kind of mosaic work, or embroidery. The white appearance of the country, which thence arises, may for a moment niake you imagine that the ground is covered with snow: but the idea of a winter scene is done away by the view of little thickets in full green, which you perceive scattered here and there, and still more by the presence of the sun and the warmth of his rays. As this moss is very dry, nothing can possibly be more pleasant to walk upon, nor can there be any thing softer to serve as a bed. Its cleanness and whiteness is tempting to the sight, and when we had put up our tent, we found ourselves in every respect very comfortably lodged. I had many times before met with this moss, but in no place had I found it so rich. It was the only produce here, which nature seemed to favour and support: no other herb was growing near it, nor any other vegetable on the spot, except a few birch-trees, with their underwood, and some firs, dispersed on the hill by the river side. All these seem to vegetate with difficulty, as if deprived of their nourishment by the moss, and appeared withering and stunted. Some trees, indeed, which grow very near the water, had the appearance of being in a flourishing state, per haps owing to the moisture they derived from the river: but, in short, this inoss appeared to be the royal plant, which ruled absolute over the vegetable kingdom of the country, and distributed its bounty and influence amongst a particular race of men and ani

mals.'

Gnats appear to be as much the plague of this country as ever they were of Egypt. The travellers were obliged to cover their faces with a veil, and to

wear thick woollen cloth, though almost suffocated with heat. They could not rest in the huts of the natives, nor in their own tent, but when surrounded with smoke; a thick smoke, says Mr. Acerbi, is an object of great luxury in this part of the world. Some of the Laplanders besmear their faces with tar to protect themselves.

Here

From Lappajervi to Kauto Keino, their next great stage, was a difficult journey of seventy miles. There were several lakes to cross, rivers to ascend and descend, and difficult swamps to pass, and no habitation on the way nor chance of meeting a human creature. their Finlanders left them, and they trusted themselves to the guidance of some Laplanders, a very inferior race of men, filthy, provokingly phlegmatic, and caring for nothing but fermented liquors. Mr. Acerbi had already accustomed himself to one of their luxuries, raw salmon cut into transverse slices, and kept three days in salt and water; this, he says, is delicious eating, and for travelling in Lapland it is certainly very convenient cookery. The Laplanders now taught him to enjoy the chief luxury of the north, the plant angelica, which is deemed a powerful antiscorbutic. I am this plant the uninterrupted good health fully convinced, he says, that I owe to which I enjoyed during all the time I was in those parts, where we had nothing else for our subsistence than fried or salted fish, the dried flesh of the rein deer, hard cheese, biscuit and brandy. These guides were exceedingly curious either of them the king? or the son of to know whom they were serving; was the king? or a commissary of the king? They could not conceive that strangers could come among them without some interested motive. At midnight the travellers lit their pipes by means of a burning lens. This they supposed would procure them the character of sorcerers, but the people seemed to have none of those ideas of sorcery which we have been taught to expect in Lapland.

These guides conducted them safely to Kauto Keino, they then took their leave with a song, of which both the. music and poetry were remarkable; the music, without meaning and without measure, time or rythmus, was terminated only by the total waste of breath, and the length of the song depended entirely on the largeness of the stomach