[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] RAW AND "SEASONED” MUCK.

"To realize the full benefits that may be derived from the use of muck, it is important that it should be dug from the swamp and piled on dry ground some months before using it in compost, and if it could thus lie for one or two years, so much the better. While in the green and wet state, the vegetable matter of which it is composed is more or less locked up in acids deleterious to cultivated plants, and is therefore unavailable to them as food, and its qualities as an absorbent are but in part developed. But give it age, and the water and acids will in a large degree pass out of it, so that it is lighter and every way more convenient for handling, and better for becoming the food of plants; and being thus dry and finely pulverized, it is, next to pulverized charcoal, the best absorbent of the liquids and volatile matters of manure that we can employ."-Hon. F. HOLBROOK.

ARTEMAS NEWELL, Esq., of Needham, who has used muck largely in various forms, in a letter published in the Transactions of the Norfolk (Mass.) Agricultural Society for 1861, remarks, "The muck should be dug from its bed late in autumn, and be fully exposed to the frosts of winter before it is used. The reason why I prefer to have it dug at this season is, that if dug earlier and left on dry land, it sometimes becomes hard, like dry peat, and is, in fact, better for fuel than for manure. I deem it a waste of labor and money to use it in combination with potash or alkalies in any other form until it has been thus exposed and prepared."

We quote the above paragraphs as introductory to some remarks, partly suggested by the inquiries of Mr. W. J. PETTEE, in the Co. GENT. of March 13, p. 169.

For several years past we have given considerable attention, both theoretically and practically, to the use of muck in various forms. One of our experiments had some resemblance to that of Mr. P.; its results may be worthy of statement. Having three years ago, a quantity of manure under our cattle sheds, still in a nearly fresh state, we made in July some seventy-five or more loads of muck and manure compost. The muck was drawn fresh from the bed in a partly dry state, and placed in layers with the manure, each six to eight inches deep, in the proportion of two loads of muck to one of manure. The heaps were piled about four feet high, and eight feet wide, and twelve to fifteen feet long at the bottom, but of course of less size at the top, and the material, except the first layer, thrown on from the wagon with forks and shovels, so that it might not become too compact for decomposition.

The next season we formed of the same kinds of muck and manure a larger heap, intermingling the material by driving over the pile with the wagon and spreading it therefrom. This saved considerable labor, but made the pile so hard at the bottom that no fermentation took place. After using the surface, the balance lay over until the next spring, when it was thoroughly mixed with the plow and harrow. This was afterward used as a hill dressing for potatoes with very good effect, also for mixing with hen manure as a fertilizer for corn in the hill.

One year (1856, I think,) one of our muck ponds became very nearly dry, so that by plowing and scraping we drew out a famous pile of muck. This deposit has very little acid in its composition compared to that named above, and was used with better results-decomposing far more easily and acting more readily in the compost heap. It was however less valuable than it would have been had it not been trampled so hard while dry by the team passing over it in scraping out, and by the stock afterward, so that the "seasoning" was less effective than it would have been had it lain in a lighter state. Muck should either be piled lightly in heaps, where cattle may not trample it, or be spread over a considerable surface, so that it may be frequently and thoroughly stirred by the plow. The latter treatment is to be preferred. Then, when well dried and aerated, it is in fine condition for storing where it can be got at through the winter, for mixing with manure, for use as bedding, and as an absorbent in the stalls of cattle and horses, which would thoroughly compost the two materials, making a large supply of manure of firstrate quality. Of this particular mode of treatment, however, we cannot speak from experiment, but we have abundant evidence of the truth of the statement, and we hope to give it practical test ere long.

We might recount other facts in regard to the best state and manner of employing muck as a fertilizer, but our remarks have already over-run more space than we intended. It is a subject of great interest to every farmer who has these muck beds within his reach, as he may thereby largely increase the products and profit of his farm.

Hints about the Planting of Potatoes.

The following excellent extract, conveying some useful hints with reference to the distance apart at which Potatoes should be planted, the depth at which they should be put in, the employment of whole or cut tubers for seed, and the time of planting-forms part of a recent article in the Scottish Farmer:

Our excellent friend, Mr. Robert Thomson, of the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens at Chiswick, who has carried out more experiments on the potato crop than any other man living, in reference to the distance at which The first heap, made up mostly from surface muck this crop should be set, thus writes:-"In the case of pretty well pulverized, fermented considerably, and was very strong kinds, it cannot be denied that quite as much used upon fall wheat in September. There were, how-produce may be obtained at 12 or 15 inches apart as at 8 ever, occasional cakes of muck which were unchanged, inches, (i. e., in the line ;) but, when the plants have much only the fine black portion seemed to be acted upon by space, they are apt to produce tubers varying greatly in the contact with the manure, and so far both were homo- size, some of the first formation being much too large, geneous or materially alike in action and character. while those of a later production are too small. In neither Other heaps made in larger proportion from the lower stra-case are the tubers so good as when there is a more equal ta of muck, were left over until the next season, and then used as a surface fertilizer (mixed with the plowed soil by harrowing,) for corn and oats-the latter seeded to clover. A considerable portion of this muck remained unchanged in character even though quite finely broken, and was of very little value as an addition to the manure. On the oat ground the clover was much better where the dressing was applied, but this was no doubt owing mostly to the manure; and the next season a large growth of sorrel overtopped the clover for a while, the result of the acid still present in the muck, which in its original bed produced little else than this weed over a large share of its surface, and the deepest deposit of vegetable matter looked like the moss seen in some swampy springs, and was still sour to the taste and smell to a remarkable degree, especially when first opened.

and middle-sized crop; and it should therefore be the aim to obtain a crop of this description. If a sort is naturally inclined to grow too large, it is well to plant it rather closely in the row; and it is better to do this than to limit the distance between the rows. It is much better to have the rows 27 inches apart, and the sets 8 inches asunder, than to have the rows 24 inches apart and the sets 9 inches from each other; and this again is prefer able to rows 18 inches asunder, and sets 12 inches from each other. In either of these ways the same number of sets will be required to plant a rood of ground; but there is, in the greater distance between the rows, and the less distance between the sets, a double advantage-first, as regards the labor in planting; and secondly, in a greater space for earthing up being afforded. When planted at the distance of 27 inches from row to row, the number of

trenches required to be cut out is one-third less than when the rows are 18 inches apart; and when planting by the dibbler is adopted, one-third more ground has to be traversed."

Nor is the depth at which the sets are to be placed a matter of indifference; from a series of experiments carried on in the Experimental Gardens at Chiswick, the following results as to depth and produce per acre were

arrived at:

At four
At six
At nine

do.

do. do.

do.

do. do.

do.

do. do.

At three inches in depth, the produce was.... 13 tons and 14 lbs. 14 tons, 1 cwt.. 18 lbs. 14 tons. 11 cwt., 4 lbs. .... 13 tons. 0 cwt. 111 lbs. The greatest produce, therefore, was at six inches in depth; at three inches the least return; while many of the sets at nine inches did not vegetate, or at least failed in reaching the surface.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] LIQUIFIED MANURE FOR GARDENS.

The " constant readers" of the Co. GENT. and CULTIVATOR, will probably recollect that some years ago Mr. EDGERTON gave us some account of the remarkable results which he obtained, in the growing of garden crops from frequent applications of manure in a liquified state, to the soil of his garden. Probably several of the readers of Mr. EDGERTON'S account have been induced, before this time, to provide themselves with a tank and watering can in their gardens, so as to be able to imitate his example, and secure a similar luxuriance of growth. Could the experiences of all those who have made trial of Mr. Some uncertainty exists as to the propriety of planting E.'s method of enriching a garden be collected together cut tubers or whole ones, also whether the latter should into one pamphlet, we presume all who should read it be large or small. The Chiswick experiments show that would be so thoroughly convinced of its good results, the mean produce of two plantations, one made in March that there would be a still more general adoption of that the other in April, of cut seeds, exceeded that from or some similar plan of applying liquified manure to whole tubers by nearly one ton per acre. A crop plant-gardens, and probably also to orchards, lawns, and ornaed in April with whole tubers was greater than that from mental grounds. Market gardens, especially, would be cut sets, but the crop planted in March with cut sets gave provided with the means of applying fertilizers in the nearly two tons per acre more than the whole tubers liquid state, if all the testimony which has been given planted in April. and might yet be given in favor of this method of securing large and luxuriant crops, could be laid before the owners and cultivators of such gardens.

Large tubers, planted whole, are preferable to small tubers, because the former have larger and stronger buds than the latter, and, therefore, as reason dictates, the stronger buds produce the stronger stems, and greater number of leaves, and upon them the crop most indisputably depends. The eyes of potatoes are true buds, and in small tubers they are comparatively weak, and consequently produce weak shoots, and the crop produced from such is inferior to that obtained from plants originating from larger tubers, furnished with larger eyes; and this conclusion has been justified by the results of many years' actual experiments.

So also is the case, as already stated, with the secondary or tertiary shoots, which are produced from tubers kept till late in the season before planting, the strongest buds having sprung in the pits, and been rubbed off in the process of turning them over; so, again, the secondary, or next weaker buds, experience a similar fate; while the crop is left to depend on the tertiary buds, which are the weakest of all. Can anything, therefore, be more conducive to weaken the vital principle in the potato, and predispose it to the attacks of disease? This is the certain consequence of late planting, and together with the rapidity with which one potato crop succeeds another, even in what is called high cultivation, is, no doubt, an important element in rendering this plant so susceptible to disease as it at present is.

It has also been found by experiments carefully conducted, that sets taken from the points of the tubers and planted in March, have yielded a crop at the rate of upwards of three tons per acre greater than when the sets were taken from the base of the tubers. In the case of the kidney varieties, when cut, the incision should be made longitudinally, and not transversely, as in the latter case the set from the top would only have eyes or buds, while

that from the base will have none.

This is the cause why crops of kidney varieties come up so unequally, one description of sets having buds or eyes, while the other has none, according to the way the tubers have been cut.

We submit, for the present, the testimony of an English farmer and market-gardener who has been employing a system of liquid manuring, for several years, on both farm and garden. After stating that the quantity of milk was increased fourfold in the dry portions of summer and autumn, he says "I had five acres of market gar. den, chiefly in onions and carrots, which, with the irrigation, became the most profitable part of my farm. I tried it with rhubarb with astonishing results, as also upon celery and asparagus, with very great improvement in the quality as well as the quantity. I am satisfied myself that the principle (that is, the system of liquid manuring) is very important for market-garden cultivation, inasmuch as there appears to be a larger development of saccharine matter, and less of woody fibre produced than in plants grown under the ordinary system."

Those who would like to try this system in their garden should sink a hogshead into the earth in a convenient corner of their garden, and liquify guano, hen manure, cow-dung, urine, &c., &c., with from six to ten or more times their bulk or weight of house-slops, suds or soft water, and after thorough stirring to secure a solution of all the fertilizing elements, allowing the solid or sedimentary portion to settle to the bottom, apply the liquid by a watering can, hydropult, or other apparatus, to the crops after or about sun down.

The communication of Mr. EDGERTON referred to in the commencement of this article may be found in Co. GENT., Dec. 28, 1854, and in CULT., Feb. 1855. The heading of the article is "How to Enrich a Garden."

sends us, charges paid, a sample of MAPLE SYRUP of his R. Parsons, Esq., of St. Lawrence County, kindly own manufacture, and as he expressly states, not with a view to a public acknowledgment of its reception. But its quality is too good to be merely noted, as he suggests, "in a private memorandum," and he will therefore pardon our taking this method of proving that its merits are appreciated.

Of course, these hints are chiefly intended for garden cultivation, and for amateurs in particular, because, in gardens we as often see the same errors fallen into as in field culture, and our intention in throwing out these TIGHT BARNS AND BARN CELLARS.-At a late agriculhasty observations is with the view of inducing some of tural discussion at Boston, the prominent practical farmour intelligent readers to give expression to their opiners present took the ground that hay properly made is ions, as it is a question which not only largely affects the agricultural interest, but that of society at large.

CEMENT FOR GRAFTING-The ingredients are: One pound of beeswax, one pint linseed oil, six pounds rosin. This cement will not run in summer nor crack in winter. OLD ERIE

kept best in tight barns, and not those with cracks between the boards; and also that barn cellars were not wooden tubes passing up to the roof, and with tight floorsinjurious to the hay above, if well ventilated through muck, &c. being used for composting the manure, and preventing the escape of the gas

1

HEN MANURE---COMPOST &c.

I have about 30 bushels of hen manure, and about the same quantity of ashes, that I wish to apply to my corn crop the coming season-soil a clay loam, a five year old timothy sod, plowed eight inches deep last fall. How would you advise me to use it? I have also a heap of stable manure made from my cows this winter-the pile is about 20 by 40 feet, 5 feet high I wish to use it as a top-dressing for rye next Fall, to be harrowed in with the rye. How can I keep it best? The pile lays out in an open field. I have used flax shives for bedding, removing them daily as they became saturated with urine, so that the pile consists of perhaps one-third flax shives. Raymertown, March, 1862.

N. V. N.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] HANGING GATES.

MESSRS. EDITORS-As the season is approaching when we shall want our fences and gates put in order, and as I have had for the last twelve years a certain kind of common gate hangings, such as I have not seen described in your paper or elsewhere, I will try and describe it, with a rough sketch of the same.

N

This is drawn merely to show it as plainly as I can. The iron work costs about 624 cts. for a gate. When well made of good iron, in The hen manure may be managed in different ways. my opinion, it will last from The easiest is to pound or reduce it to a powder, then mix one generation to another. it with the ashes, both being quite dry, so that the ashes The advantage of these trimwill not act on the manure before it is buried. Then mings is that the gate swings plant the corn with such a planter as Billing's, which drops either way if the grade of the ground permits. The upper concentrated manure at the same time the corn is drop- end of the heel post of the ped and buried, but with a small space of earth between gate being rounded, it is easithe manure and seed, to prevent injury to the latter. Or, ly unhung at all times by sim*if such a planter is not at hand, drop the corn by hand in ply being raised out of the hills, cover it half an inch or so with earth, then drop a hole in the stone needs to be stone at the bottom. The W small handful of the mixture, (scattering it several inches only about half an inch deep. about,) and then cover with a little more earth. Or a The round part of the eye, handful of the manure may be thrown down where the as shown in the engraving, hill is to be, and quickly mixed with earth by two or three which goes through the gate strokes of the hoe, and the corn then dropped and buried post, enables the eye to turn, and the gate is slipped out below. The section of the the usual way. Such manures are usually more efficient heel-post of gate shows that there is a band required to applied in the hill, especially on inverted sod. If the strengthen that part of the gate, having stubs of nails put corn is planted in drills, a more thorough intermixture of in to prevent it from falling off in case of the drying or the manure with the soil may be effected by first furrow-rotting of the gate post. The iron pin in the bottom may ing out the land, then strewing the mixture thinly along, inches long, say three inches in and two inches out of the be of three-fourths or seven-eights inches, and about five and then drawing a one horse cultivator, set narrow, along wood. I generally unbang all my gates as soon as the the furrow. Or still better, attach a horse to a small log winter sets in, and in the spring it takes but a short time of wood, and drag it along the furrow, which will grind, to put all in order. ALBERT VAN VOAST. 'pulverize and mix well together both manure and earth. The corn is then drilled in. Another way is to compost the hen manure with several times its bulk of fine loam or peat, but this is attended with more heavy labor in mixing and in application, which will be hardly compensated by the increased advantage.

The heap of stable manure, if already composted with large quantities of straw, scraped soil, &c., may lie as it is till autumn; but if not so composted, draw it out as near as practicable to the spot where wanted, and make it in equal alternate layers with loam or turf-the layers of each to be as thin as can be spread, to effect more thorough intermixture. By next autumn the heap will be valuable compost, which may be broken fine in the process of drawing and spreading.

WASHING CORN.

The healthfulness of corn as an article of food is admitted by all, yet after it has lain for a few months in a crib ed with rats, cats, and other vermin, as is most generally the case, its palatableness becomes a matter of taste.

Pond Grove, Schenectady.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] COAL TAR AND ROSIN.

MESSRS. EDITORS-Not long since an article appeared in one of your papers, inquiring whether coal tar and pitch applied to timber would preserve it from decay while under ground. The past year I have been experimenting with preparations of that kind, for the purposes aforesaid, and believe I have discovered a sure remedy or preventive of decay, which can be made as follows:

Take equal parts of coal tar and rosin; heat them until the rosin shall be dissolved and well intermixed with the tar; then apply it to that part of the timber you intend sinking in the ground.

To test the virtues of such a preparation, I took a sap shingle, split it in two pieces, one of which I smeared with coal tar and rosin; the other I left uncovered. I then drove infest-months I took them up, and found the progress of decay to them side and side in the ground. At the end of nine have been very rapid in the piece uncovered, while the other was perfectly sound. This experiment fully convinced For several years we have been in the habit of washing me of the efficacy of such a preparation, and if properly apwhat corn is used in the family, and find that it greatly implied, I believe all kinds of timber would be rendered inproves it. Take a brass kettle or large tub half full of near- destructable by decay. For posts I hardly think it necessary ly boiling water; put in your shelled corn and let it remain to cover more than twelve inches below and six inches above for a few minutes, then stir it briskly with a paddle, and you where the surface of the ground will come, as that part of will be surprised to see how yellow the corn, and how much the post is more exposed to the action of the elements, conbetter the puddings, Indian bread and johnnycakes will be.sequently needs the most protection. Some wash the corn on the ear, but when the cob gets wet it is a tedious process to dry it. When shelled it will dry thoroughly in thirty-six hours. It should be spread two or three inches deep on some clean surface, in a warm room, or if in the summer, placed in the open air and stirred occasionally. Try it all ye that ne'er tried it before," if you want new corn the year round. ST. LAWRENCE.

I have not time or I would write more on the subject, as I consider it a very important one, and one of much interest to the farmer or real estate owner. And yet heretofore the preservation of timber has received but a small share of consideration in comparison with what has been said and written on other subjects. B. W. ROGERS.

Bridgeton, New Jersey.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] Sowing Peas Broadcast or in Drills. MESSRS. EDITORS-Some time since ACER stated in the Co. GENT., that peas might be made a good fallow crop, by sowing some of the smaller kinds in drills, and keeping the weeds down by cultivating with a horse, and asks who will try it. I have been experimenting somewhat with some half a dozen kinds of peas, and have tried them both ways, sown in drills and broadcast, and have found that the large Marrowfat pea, sown rather thick broadcast, much the best to keep the weeds down; which they do by their quick rampant growth and thorough and complete occupation and shading of the ground. While the smaller kinds, by their slower growth, give the weeds a much greater chance; and especially is this the case when sown in drills. It is also quite difficult to keep the weeds out from among the peas in the row, as the peas have a very slight hold of the soil, and are generally leaning or laying many different ways, it is very difficult to hoe out the weeds without hoeing up more or less of the peas; while to pull up the weeds after they get much size, would be sure to pull more or less of the peas also. But the Marrowfat pea saves all trouble by keeping the weeds

under.

Of course this applies more particularly to the more common annual weeds. Though a more limited experience leads to the opinion that there are few, if any, sown crops better calculated than the Marrowfat pea to get and keep the start of such weeds as Canada thistles, and the wire and quack grasses. Though of course the peas cannot be expected to kill or run out these pests.

Orleans Co., N. Y.

F.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] PRUNING GRAPEVINES.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] TERRACED VINEYARDS.

EDS. Co. GENT.-I perceive that some of your readers felt a little disappointed at the opinion expressed in your No. of Feb. 13. Such a side-hill as your correspondent there speaks of, would indeed be impracticable. I cannot but think that he is mistaken, and has formed an opinion at random. We know of no hills as steep as 45°, unless composed of rock; such a descent could not be cultivated. At the same time I cannot quite subscribe to your opinion that "terracing is not suited to this country;" at least I have not found it so in my practice, having planted vineyards on terraced and level land, and always finding the result in favor of terraces. The soil here is a rather light loam, mixed with more or less gravel, and sometimes approximating to sandy. About twenty-five years ago I terraced a side-hill of this description, too steep for cultivation by the plow on account of the washing of rains. The field was well filled with natural grasses, forming a strong sward. Having no side-hill plow at command, I broke it up with the common plow, throwing the turf and soil down hill by repeated plowings, of course plowing one way only. Then with workmen furnished with common dung forks, selected or shook out the broken pieces of turf and laid them up like a wall at the bottom of the proposed terrace, without regard to much order as to which side of the soil was uppermost, and worked the loose soil down against this embankment until the upper or flat portion of the terrace was level. The terraces were laid 10 feet wide, and the grass bank required to be 24 feet high, leaving fully eight feet or a little more for cultivation. The vines were planted in rows one foot from the bank. Finding the labor considerable in making a terrace so wide, I laid a part of them 8 feet, but found afterwards that the wider terraces gave the largest and best crops of fruit. The grass or sods thus promiscuously piled up soon commenced growing and formed a strong wall of green, requiring to be mown once at least every year, and is still strong and unbroken; it also requires re-trenching, by cutting the edge next the cultivated ground with a spade and turning under once a year;

rows of vines, and this I regard as the consequence of an an error in planting. Instead of setting the rows of vines on one side, they should have been planted in the middle of the terraces, which would have lessened the amount of hand labor, allowing nearly all to be done with horse and plow or cultivator.

MESSRS. EDITORS-"Inquirer," in your issue of March 27, asks for information as to the best time to prune the grape, He objects to doing it in January or February, because we are subject to sudden cold snaps, exposing the young wood, causing death or imperfect fruitage. He finds best success, under pruning done in March, and be-likewise the space between the edge of the grass and the lieves the bleeding of the vines does not effect the crop. He wishes to be informed as to the experience of other vine growers. I shall endeavor to answer some of his interrogatories, by giving my experience upon the subject. I have been in the habit of pruning the first day of February. I leave any vines on the trellis on stakes during the winter, and have never had them killed back by the cold of winter. After the fruit has set, I summer prune very thoroughly, believing that few vines are able to carry the fruit and ripen perfectly the large mass of wood that will accumulate if left to grow. Summer pruning has much to do in fitting and maturing the young wood to stand the severities of our winters, and I apprehend the absence of it does more mischief than any pruning done in January or February. The multiplicity of cares in the fall have thus far prevented my trimming my vineyards before the closing in of winter. My theory is, that the fall is the best time, and for this reason-the sap which is the blood of the vine, returns to the root in the fall, so much of it only being supplied to the vine as is necessary to give vitality to it through the long cold win

ter.

All extra wood left to be cut off in the winter or spring, is an unnecessary draught upon the life-giving forces of the parent stock, and impairs to a greater or less extent its vigor. Given spring pruning, and free bleeding of the vine, and the solution will be a feeble, sickly vine, smail and imperfect, thin of fruit, and a growth of wood entirely unfitted to stand the rigors and changes incident to winter. It cannot be proved by any system of logic, that bleeding the plant will add to its strength, vigor or perfection. OTIS F. PRESBREY.

Prospect Hill Vineyard, Buffalo.

At the time I made no notes of the cost of terracing, but my impression is that no very great expense attends the terracing of such land; a large portion of the work can be done with a good side-hill plow and team. If the ground is not seeded so as to furnish turf, then the embankments must be sown at once with grass seed. Our experience here is rather in favor of side-hill for vineyards, and terracing can be made the means of reducing much of the hilly slopes to a condition very favorable to the cultivation of other varieties beside grapes-such as dwarf pears and indeed nearly all the small or dwarfish R. M. CONKLIN, kinds.

Cold Spring, Long Island.

[For the Country Gentleman and Cultivator.] BEE-FEEDER.

For feeding bees, there is nothing more convenient than Eggleston's Patent Bee-Feeder. It is readily adjusted to any hive, and will work admirably. Not a robber bee can gain access to the honey; nor will the bees, while feeding, get drowned, or even get their feet fast in it. Yet the honey is always in reach till all is taken up. I have had one for two years. It is somewhat costly, but when one has but few bees, and wishes to get along with the least possible trouble in feeding his bees, he will find this arrangement just adapted to his wants. M. QUINBY. St. Johnsville.