Page images
PDF
EPUB

of Orange was assassinated is not far from the Old Church; it is called the Prinssenhof, and is now a barrack. After crossing the court, a small door on the right leads to the spot where the murder was committed. The identical staircase which he was about to ascend after dinner, and the passage where the murderer Balthazar Geraarts stood, so near to his victim, that the pistol must almost have touched his body,will assuredly be looked upon with interest by every traveller. An inscription on a stone, let into the wall, records the event, and three holes bored in another stone below it pass for the identical marks of the fatal bullets which killed him. He expired in the arms of his sister, and his wife (the daughter of Coligny, who had been murdered in a similar manner, and in her sight at the St. Bartholomew mascacre). The last words of the hero were, "Mon Dieu, mon Dieu, ayez pitié de moi et de ce pauvre peuple!" The principal military arsenal of Holland is at Delft.

The distance from Delft to the Hague (about 4 miles) may be pleasantly travelled on the canal; and the trekschuit, for this short distance, will not prove a tiresome conveyance.

The country is even more thickly spread over with cottages, villas, country seats and gardens (§ 13.) than on the other side of Delft; and has the same rich but monotonous display of rural life. On the left appears the spire of the church of Ryswyk, near which the famous treaty of peace was signed (1697) between England, France, Holland, Germany, and Spain, in a house of the Prince of Orange, now removed; its site is marked by an obelisk.

3. THE HAGUE (La Haye, in French: S'Gravenhage, in Dutch). Inns:- Hôtel Bellevue, near the park, comfortable, and charges tolerably moderate for bed-room, 2 fl. 50 c.; dinner, 2 fl.; tea, 60 c.; breakfast, 70c.; wax lights, 40 c. Oude Doe

[ocr errors]

len; Nieuwe Doelen (Doel is the Dutch for the bull's eye in the target, derived from times when archery was the favourite amusement, and the inn, of course, the place of resort when the contest was decided); Maréchal Turenne; Keizershof (Imperial Hotel); Twe Steden (Two Towns); Heerenlogement (Gentleman's Lodging).

The population is about 56,000. Though long the residence of the Stadholders, and now of the King of Holland, up to the beginning of the present century, the Hague ranked only as a village, because it had neither corporation nor walls, and did not return members to the States General; Louis Buonaparte, however, during his rule, conferred on it the privileges of a city. Other Dutch cities owe their rise to commerce or manufactures; this to the residence of a court, the presence of the government and States General, and the abode of foreign ministers.

Its origin may be traced to a hunting-seat of the counts of Holland, built here in 1250; and its name, to the Counts' hedge (S' Graven Hage) surrounding their park.

The principal streets are, the Voorhout, lined with trees and bordered with splendid hotels; the Prinssengracht, Kneuterdyk, and Noordeende. The Vyverberg (hill of the pond) is a square or place, with avenues of trees forming a shady promenade on the one side, and a piece of water on the other. It is in Holland alone that so gentle a rise in the ground as is here perceptible, would be dignified with the name of a hill.

On one side of the Vyverberg stands the Binnenhof, so called because it formed the inner court of the Counts' Palace, an irregular building of various dates. The Gothic hall in the centre of it, now used for the drawing of the lottery, is the oldest building in the Hague, and the only remaining fragment of the original palace of the counts of Holland. It is a handsome apartment, with a point

It

ed roof, supported by a gothic framework of wood, somewhat in the style of that of Westminster Hall. possesses some interest in an historical point of view; since, upon a scaffolding erected opposite to the door, on a level with the top of the steps the Pensionary Barneveldt was beheaded in 1618, at the age of seventytwo. Prince Maurice is believed to have placed himself, during the execution, at the window of an octagon tower which overlooks the spot, "to feast himself," says Burigny, "with the cruel pleasure of seeing his enemy perish. The people looked on it with other eyes: many came to gather the sand wet with his blood, to keep it carefully in phials; and the crowd of those who had the same curiosity continued next day, notwithstanding all they could do to hinder them." The Chambers of the States General or Dutch parliament, and several of the public offices, are situated in the Binnenhof. The public are freely admitted to the debates of the Second Chamber.

Between the Buitenhof (Outer Court) and the Vyverberg is an old gateway, called Gevangepoort (prison gate), remarkable as the place in which Cornelis De Witt was confined, 1672, on a false charge of conspiring to assassinate the Prince of Orange. The populace, incited to fury by the calumnies circulated against him and his brother the Grand Pensionary, dragged them from the prison, and actually tore them to pieces on the spot facing the Vyverberg, called Groene Zoodje, with ferocity more befitting wild beasts than human beings. A few yards from the spot where this occurred in the Kneuterdyk, opposite the Hartogstraatje, may be seen the modest mansion of the Grand Pensionary de Witt. Barneveldt lived in a house which now forms part of the hotel of the Minister of Finance.

The Museum and Picture Gallery is situated in the building called the Maurits Huis, from Prince Maurice

of Nassau, Governor of Brazil, and afterwards of Cleve, by whom it was built. It is open to the public daily, except Sunday, from 11 to 3.

The Picture Gallery is almost entirely confined to the works of Dutch masters; but in this department it has scarcely a rival, in point of excellence, in any collection in the world.

The most remarkable pictures are, Paul Potter's (170) Young Bull, his masterpiece; a most celebrated picture, and remarkable as being one of the few examples in which the artist painted animals as large as life.This picture was carried to Paris by the French, and was classed by them fourth in value of all the paintings then in the Louvre; the Transfiguration, by Raphael, ranking first; and the Communion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino, second; Titian's Peter Martyr, third. Paul Potter's Bull has been valued at 5000l.; the Dutch government, it is stated, offered Napoleon four times that sum if he would consent to suffer it to remain at the Hague. D. T. (171.) The Cow drinking; "finely painted. remarkable for the strong reflection in the water." Sir J. R.

Rembrandt. (385.) A Surgeon, Professor Tulp, attended by his Pupils, proceeding to dissect a Dead Body. Though an unpleasing subject, it is a most wonderful painting, and one of the artist's finest works. "To avoid making it an object disagreeable to look at, the figure is but just cut at the wrist. There are seven other portraits, coloured like nature itself, fresh and highly finished; one of the figures behind has a paper in his hand, on which are written the names of the rest. Rembrandt has also added his own name, with the date, 1672. The dead body is perfectly well drawn (a little fore-shortened), and seems to have been just washed. Nothing can be more truly the colour of dead flesh. The legs and feet, which are nearest the eye, are in shadow; the principal light, which is on the body, is by that

the manner of Rubens, so much so as to appear, at first sight, to be of his hand; but the character of the child shows it to be Vandyk's." Sir J. R. The only picture in the gallery answer

(and to all appearance correctly) to
Murillo (303.).

Ferdinand Bol:-
Admiral de Ruiter.

- (18.) Portrait of

means preserved of a compact form." Sir Joshua Reynolds. Physicians assert that they can ascertain that it is the body of a person who died from inflammation of the lungs. This picture formerly stood in the Anatomy School (Snij-ing to this description is one attributed kamer) of Amsterdam, but was purchased by the present King for the value of 3000l. (32,000 guilders). (180.) Portrait of a young man with hat and feathers: "for colouring and force nothing can exceed it." Sir J. R. -(178.) St. Simeon receiving the Infant Jesus in the Temple.-(179.)" A study of Susanna for a picture. It appears very extraordinary that Rembrandt should have taken so much pains, and have made at last so very ugly and ill-favoured a figure; but his attention was principally directed to the colouring and effect, in which, it must be acknowledged, he has attained the highest degree of excellence." Sir J. R.

[blocks in formation]

Keyser: (104.) Four Burgomasters of Amsterdam deliberating on the reception of Mary de' Medicis into their city. "A very good picture." (103.) A small full-length of a Man in Black: excellent.

Gerard Dou: (42.) A Woman sitting near a window, with a child in a cradle; a very pleasing picture. "A woman with a candle."

Sir J. R.: very highly finished. Wouvermans: (249.) A Battle piece, -(257.) "The Hay Cart," and (256.) "The Manège; " three excellent specimens of this artist. "Here are many of the best works of Wouvermans, whose pictures are well worthy the attention and close examination of a painter. One of the most remarkable of them is known by the name of the Hay Cart: another, in which there is a coach and horses, is equally excellent. These pictures are in his three different manners: his middle manner is by much the best ; the first and last have not that liquid softness which characterises his best works. Besides his great skill in colouring, his horses are correctly drawn, very spirited, of a beautiful form, and always in unison with their ground. Upon the whole, he is one of the few painters whose excellence, in his way, is such as leaves nothing to be wished for." Sir J. R.

Vandyk.—(49.) Portrait of Simon, a painter of Antwerp. "This is one of the very few pictures that can be seen of Vandyk which is in perfect preservation; and, on examining it closely, it appeared to me a perfect pattern of portrait painting; every part is distinctly marked, but with the lightest hand, and without destroying the breadth of light: the colouring is perfectly true to nature, though it has not the brilliant effect of sunshine such as is seen in Rubens's wife: it is nature seen by common daylight." | Sir J. R.-(47, 48.) Two fine por- Berghem. (13.) An Italian View. traits, of a Gentleman, and "a Lady(15.) Banditti robbing a Caravan, with a feather in her hand," Sir J. R. called, incorrectly, the Duke and Duchess of Buckingham; from the coat of arms in the corner, they are probably either Dutch or German.

"A Virgin and Christ, coloured in

excellent.

Vanderwerf.-(247.) The Flight into Egypt: "one of his best." Sir J. R. "Terbürg. Woman (30.) A seated on the ground, leaning her elbow against a man's knee, and a

trumpeter delivering a letter." Sir J. R.

Poussin. - Venus asleep: a Satyr drawing off the drapery. Sir J. R. The painting to which Sir Joshua alludes is probably (189.), described in the catalogue as a subject from Ariosto, by one of Rubens's scholars.

Breughel."Two pictures of flowers and fruits, with animals; one serves for a border to a bad portrait, the other (27.) to a picture of Rothenhamer the frames are much better than the pictures." Sir J. R.

Metzu: A Woman writing and looking up. Lingelbach: (116.) The Departure of Charles II. from Holland, on his restoration to the throne of England. Adrian Van Ostade: A Man singing; painted when the artist was 63.-(155, 156.) “The exterior and interior of a cottage. Frans Mieris (127.) Boy blowing bubbles. -(125.) Dutch gallantry: a man pinching the ear of a dog, which lies on his mistress's lap." Sir J. R. Called in the catalogue, The Painter and his Wife. Vander Helst. (82.) Portrait of Paul Potter, taken a few days before his death. Schalken: (197.) A Lady at her toilette. A beautiful candlelight effect. (201.) Portrait of William III. Jan Steen: (213.) The Menagerie, one of his best works; and one or two other very good pictures.-Adrian Vander Velde: (232.) The Sea-shore at Schevening.

[ocr errors]

·Hochgeest (a rare master): (84.) The tomb of William Prince of Orange, in the New Church, Delft. "It is painted in the manner of De Witt, but I think better." Sir J. R.

Teniers: (222.) "An alchemist." (221.) "A kitchen." Sir J. R. Velasquez: (305.) Portrait of a boy; said to be Charles Balthazar, son of Philip IV. of Spain. - Titian: (335.) Portrait of the Emperor Charles V.; a sketch. Vernet: (300.) A sea piece. - Hondekoeter & Weeninx: One or two admirable specimens of these masters, representing birds and game alive and dead. ·Van Huysum: Fruit

and flower piece. · De Heem: "Fruit, done with the utmost perfection." Sir J. R. (79, 80.).

Snyders: -(205.) "A large hunting piece, well painted, but it occupies too much space. His works, from the subjects, their size, and, we may add, from their being so common, seem to be better suited to a hall or anteroom, than any other place." Sir J. R. The landscape is by Rubens.

Among the older pictures are, —by Albert Durer: Two portraits said to be of Laurence Coster (282.), the inventor of printing, and P. Aretin (283.).— Holbein (290.) A small portrait of a man with a hawk; on it is written Henry Cheseman, 1533. "Admirable for its truth and precision, and extremely well coloured. The blue flat ground behind the head gives a general effect of dryness to the picture: had the ground been varied, and made to harmonise more with the figure, this portrait might have stood in competition with the works of the best portrait painters." Sir J. R.. (291.) Jane Seymour; (293.) Erasmus, fine portraits.

Several apartments are devoted to the works of modern Flemish artists, purchased by the King with the design of encouraging the living school. These paintings suffer somewhat from being placed in the same gallery with the works described above: still there are some very creditable performances.

The Royal Cabinet of Curiosities, a highly interesting collection, is placed in the lower story of the Maurits huis; and is open daily to the public from 12 to 3.

Several apartments are occupied entirely with objects of curiosity from China and Japan, and rare productions brought from other Dutch colonies; one division is devoted to historical relics of distinguished persons. Some of the most remarkable objects are here enumerated.

The Costumes of China, illustrated by figures of persons of various ranks, in porcelain; as the Emperor, a Bonze

or Priest, Mandarins, &c., each in his peculiar dress. An immense variety of articles manufactured by the Chinese in porcelain. Figures and other objects elaborately carved in ivory, mother-of-pearl, and soap-stone, or steatite. A chessboard, differing but little from that of Europe;-articles in daily use amongst the Chinese, as the chopsticks which serve instead of knives and forks; the calculating table (swampon), or abacus, with which they cast accounts; specimens of visiting cards two feet square, &c.; and a view of the Palace of the Emperor of China, at Pekin.

The division occupied by rarities from Japan is probably unique, as the Dutch are the only European nation admitted into that country, and have therefore the best opportunities for procuring curiosities. The value of this collection is increased by the extreme difficulty of bringing such objects to Europe; as the laws of the Japanese strictly prohibit their exportation. A plan of Jeddo, the metropolis of Japan, a city of at least 2,000,000 inhabitants, and 20 leagues in circumference. A curious model, made by the Japanese with the most minute attention to details, of the Island of Desima, the Dutch Factory in Japan. The Deities of China and Japan in porcelain, &c. A whole wardrobe of Japanese dresses, made of silks and other stuffs.

A large collection of Japan ware, as boxes, trays, tea-chests, &c., of far finer workmanship and more elaborately painted than the ordinary specimens commonly met with in Europe. Japanese weapons, particularly various species of krits, or dirks, and swords, of remarkably fine steel, which in temper are said to surpass any thing which Birmingham, or even Damascus, can produce. The Japanese are tremendously expert in the use of this their favourite weapon: with one blow they can sever a man's body in twain. The upper classes of society claim the privilege of wearing two swords at

once. The matchlock barrels deposited here are excellent in the quality of the steel, and in the beauty of the workmanship. Among the articles of military equipment, is a coat of Japanese mail, with a steel vizor formed into a grotesque face, and ornamented with mustachios of bristles and horns of brass. A Norimon, or Japanese palanquin, has recently been added to the collection. The needles and other apparatus with which the operation of acupuncture is performed by the Japanese physicians are de serving the attention of medical men.

Many cases are entirely filled with dresses, arms, implements, canoes, and household utensils, of savage nations, from various parts of the world.

Among the historical relics are, the armour of Admiral de Ruiter, with the medal and chain given him by the States General. The baton of Admiral Piet Hein. The armour of Admiral Tromp, with the marks of more. than one bullet on it. A portion of the bed on which the Czar Peter slept in his hut at Zaandam. The shirt and waistcoat worn by William III. of England the 3 last days of his life. A specimen of the beggar's bowl (jatte de Gueux) which formed a part of the insignia of the confederate chiefs who freed Holland from the yoke of Spain, worn by them along with a wallet, as symbols of the name of beggar (gueux), with which their enemies intended to have stigmatised them. A ball of wood, full of nails, each driven in by one of the confederates, when they swore to be faithful to one another, and steadfast in the enterprize. The dress of William Prince of Orange, on the day when he was murdered at Delft by Balthazar Gerards. It is a plain grey leathern doublet, sprinkled with blood, pierced by the balls, and showing marks of the powder. By the side of it is the pistol used by the assassin, and two of the fatal bullets. A model of the cabin in which Peter the Great resided while

« ՆախորդըՇարունակել »