many of them remarkable for their workmanship as well as their antiquity; well-executed sketches; coloured drawings; a library of printed books, MSS. and maps; a complete set of musical instruments; idols, and even the sacred objects appertaining to their worship, and the furniture of the temple; a series of Japanese coins and medals, and a complete set of Chinese coins from the 2nd century before our era. The traveller who visits it will not only derive great pleasure from the examination of so rare a collection, unique of its kind in Europe, but, also from the urbanity and intelligence of Dr. S., whose intimate acquaintance with the Japanese, and every particular relative to their manners and customs, is the result of a protracted residence of many years in that country,

The Egyptian Museum in the Breede Straat, includes numerous valuable and highly interesting monuments, partly historical, partly illustrative of the mode of life of that ancient people. The Papyri, a small but entire tomb of stones, some musical instruments, inscriptions, numerous fine stone tablets of a very early period, many sarcophagi and mummies, as well as rich ornaments in gold and precious stones, offer abundant interest to the learned antiquary and to the curious traveller. (W.) Of jewellery and trinkets, once, doubtless, the delight of the ladies of Thebes, and such as were borrowed by the children of Israel on their departure from Egypt, there is a large assortment. A massive armlet of solid gold, bears the name of a king (Thotmes II.), who is supposed to have been the oppressor of the Israelites; if so, it may possibly have been seen by Moses himself. The Museum also embraces many ancient objects of Roman art. Six monumental fragments, bearing Punic inscriptions, were brought from the ruins of Carthage.

The collection of Etruscan bronzes is the largest on this side of the Alps;

there are besides a number of colossal Indian statues and other objects here. A large heap of broken pottery and other objects discovered at Voorburg near the Hague, are curious relics of the Roman settlement in this country. The Agricultural collections in Leyden are very eminent.

The Botanical Garden deserves the highest praise; it is under a twofold arrangement, according to the systems of Linnæus and Jussieu. The collection of plants is very extensive, and is preserved in excellent order, under the superintendence of Professor Reinwardt and his able assistant Mr. Schurman. In the conservatories are reared the cinnamon, cinchona (from which comes bark and quinine), coffee, cotton, mahogany, &c.

In one of the hot-houses there were till lately two date palms said to be more than 200 years old; a large Fraxinus Ornus in the open air, was planted by Boerhaave, who devoted much time and attention to the formation and cultivation of this garden. Another curiosity is the trunk of a tree, which has been sawn asunder, and shows in the very centre an iron trident or fork, buried in the middle of the wood.

The large open space, called de Ruine, in the street named Rapenburg, now planted with trees, was formerly covered with houses: they were demolished in 1807 by the fearful explosion of a barge laden with gunpowder, which caught fire from some unexplained cause while lying in the canal, in the very heart of the town, and killed 150 persons.

In the Church of St. Peter is the monument of Boerhaave, the renowned physician, with the modest inscription, "Salutifero Boerhaavii Genio sacrum;" surrounded by others in memory of the most distinguished worthies of the University, as Dodonæus, Spanheim, the two Meermans, Clusius, Scaliger, Camper, and others. Among them is one of a professor, J. Luzac, killed by the explosion of

1807, representing him in bas relief, in the state in which he was found after his death.

In the Church of St. Pancras, called the Hooglandsche Kerk, is the monument of the brave burgomaster, Vanderwerff, who refused to yield up the town to the Spaniards.

The most frequented promenade is without the walls, close by the side of that branch of the Rhine which waters and surrounds the town, shaded by a double row of trees. In the neighbourhood of Leyden are the retreats of several distinguished men. In the château of Endegeest (near Oestgeest), Descartes found an asylum; and the country seat of Boerhaave still bears his name.

Leyden is surrounded by windmills; but they who inquire for that in which Rembrandt was born, will hardly meet with a satisfactory answer. A short distance out of Leyden, on the left of the road to Utrecht, and on the left bank of the Rhine canal, is a mill built of brick, bearing a more antiquated appearance than the rest, which is pointed out as the birthplace of the painter. It is recorded that his parents were owners of a cornmill, situated between Leyerdorp and Koukerk. Otto Vennius, master of Rubens, 1556. Jan Steen, 1636. Gerard Dou, W. Vandevelde, Mieris, and many other distinguished painters, were born here; as were the Elzevirs, famous printers, known by the editions of the classics bearing their name, and printed in Leyden.

About 8 miles from Leyden, on the sea-shore, is Katwyk, where the expiring Rhine is helped to discharge itself into the sea by means of a canal with gigantic sluice-gates. The mouth of the Rhine had remained closed from the year 840, when a violent tempest heaped up an impenetrable barrier of sand at its embouchure, until 1809, when the sluices were formed. As long as the river was left to itself, it was lost, before it reached the sea, in the vast beds of sand which it there

encountered, and which either lay below the level of the tides, or were so flat that water could hardly pass through or drain off them. Thus only a small part of the Rhine, dribbling into insignificant streams, ever found its way out: the rest settled into stagnant pools, converting the whole district into a pestilential morass. To remedy this evil, and also to give a new outlet to the Haarlemmer Meer and to the superfluous waters of the district of the Rheinland, a wide artificial channel has been formed, provided with a triple set of sluices; the first having pair, the second 4 pair, and the last, nearest the sea, 7 pair of gates. When the tide flows, the gates are shut, to prevent the entrance of the sea, which at high water rises against them 12ft., and the level of the sea on the outside is equal if not above that of the canal within. During ebb-tide the floodgates are opened by means of machinery for 5 or 6 hours, to allow the accumulated streams to pass out, and, in their passage, to clear away the sands collected by the waves on the outside. It has been calculated that the volume of water passing out in a second equals 100,000 cubic ft. When the sea is much agitated, and the wind blowing towards the shore, prevents the tide retiring to its usual distance, it is impossible to open the gates at all. The dykes which have been raised at the entrance of the canal, and on the sea-shore, are truly stupendous; they are founded upon piles driven into the locse sand, and faced with solid masonry of limestone from Tournay. These hydraulic works were executed during the reign of King Louis, by an engineer named Conrad: his name has been erased (because the inscription contained some praise of his master, Louis Buonaparte), from the work which does him so much credit, and confers so great a benefit on the surrounding district. But his services have not been forgotten by the powers that be, since, after his pre

mature death, his three infant sons were educated and provided for at the public expense.

It

This exit of the Rhine presents nothing very striking to the eye. may be doubted whether the mere sight of a set of floodgates, even though they surpass in strength and ingenuity any similar construction in Europe, will repay a traveller who does not take a particular interest in such subjects, for making a detour out of his road to Katwyk: unless perchance, having traced the stream from its small beginnings under the glaciers of Mount Adula, until its flood forms a barrier between mighty nations, having followed it among the sunny and vine-clad slopes of the Rheingau, and beneath the frowning and bristling crags of the Lurley and Ehrenbreitstein, - he may desire to see it in its last gasp, before it is lost in the

ocean.

Close to the shore are salt-works and evaporating houses, where the sea-water is pumped up to the top of a large building with open sides, and allowed to trickle over fagots with which it is filled. It is thus treated several times, losing each time many of its watery particles, by exposure to the air and sun, until at last it is converted to strong brine, and is transported to Leyden to be boiled.

The Trekschuit takes 4 hours in going from Leyden to Haarlem : the traveller by land returns into the high road from the Hague to Haarlem, at,

1. Postbrug-the first stage (2 posts) from the Hague. The road afterwards passes the village of Lisse, and commands occasional views of the Lake of Haarlem on the right.

On approaching Haarlem, the number of country seats greatly increase; at the entrance of the town, on the right, is the Pavilion, a house originally built by M. Hope, the banker, of Amsterdam, sold afterwards to Louis Buonaparte. It now belongs to the

lem; but it is, in fact, nothing but a very handsome mansion, containing neither pictures nor statues of any

consequence.

2. HAARLEM. Inn. - Lion d'Or (Goude Leeuw), Zyl Straat, where the landlady, a clever and obliging little personage, has taught herself English as well as French, and studies anxiously the accommodation of her guests.

Haarlem is situated on the Spaarn: it has 21,000 inhabitants, just half of what it once contained. The most remarkable thing here is the Organ in the great church of St. Bavon. It was made by Christian Müller, and was long esteemed the largest and finest in the world, though lately surpassed in the size of the pipes by two erected in England, at York and Birmingham. There are, however, nearly 5000 pipes in the Dutch organ, and only 4500 in the English. The greatest metal pipe at Haarlem is 15 inches in diameter, that of York is 20 inches; the Haarlem organ has only 2 pipes 32 feet in length and 8 of 16 feet, while that of York has 4 of 32 feet, and 20 of 16 feet; still the Haarlem instrument must not be undervalued: its powers are immense, and it is played on by an organist who at his private performances knows how to bring them out. In size it is itself an edifice, a stupendous pile of musical architecture, filling the whole of one end of the church, and reaching up to the roof, being supported on porphyry pillars. A paper containing full particulars of the number and variety of stops may be obtained from the organist.

Extract from a Journal: -"The first burst of sound was quite thrilling, as peal after peal issued forth, vibrated along the roof, and died away in distant corners of the building. Then softer tones were poured forth in a flood of melody; and as the former were more powerful, so did these appear more touchingly melodious than thoseof any other instrument of the sort

of which it is capable under the hand of a skilful musician is extraordinary. At one time the trumpet sounds a charge; in the next, the fife, hautboy, or piano, is heard. But the most remarkable imitation is that of the tinkling of bells, so very exact, that it is difficult at first to believe that such tones can be produced by air within pipes. The performance concludes with The Storm,' and with peals of mimic thunder, under which the massive building seems to shake, and the walls to jar. The great diapason produced a sound which reminded me of the whizzing confused movement of the wheels of a cotton factory. All this, however, is to be regarded merely as a tour de force, as ventriloquism of the organ; it owes its great reputation to the general power and effect of its tones.

The

vox humana pipe is considered particularly fine. When the performance is over, strangers are invited into the organ loft, to inspect the instrument. The condition of exhaustion in which I found the organist, from the mere physical exertion of playing, made me think that his charge was not so exorbitant as it at first appeared."

same.

The organist's fee is 12 guilders (17.) for his performance at private hours; it matters not how large the party may be one person or twenty pay the A voluntary is played thrice a week, after morning service, from 12 to 1, at which time all the world is admitted; but a very poor notion of the power of the instrument can be formed from this. On the alternate days, at the same hour, the organist plays the carillons, which are very remarkable. There is an extensive view from the church tower.

The church itself is very high; the nave is divided from the choir by a screen of brass, ornamented with curious grotesque figures and foliage. In one of the walls a cannon-ball still remains embedded, a relic of the memorable siege by the Spaniards in

1572.

The inhabitants of Haarlem are very anxious to obtain for their townsman, Laurence Coster, the credit of the invention of printing, grounding his claims upon a dubious local tradition which cannot be traced farther back than the middle of the XVIth century. His statue is placed in the open market-place, near St. Bavon, fronting the house where he lived. In the Stadhuis is preserved the first book printed by him, it is said in 1440 (?), the "Speculum Humanæ Salvationis;" along with it are shown specimens of the original blocks, or wooden types, invented and used by him. Coster appears to have originated the idea of taking off impressions with ink upon paper from solid wooden blocks. His attempts were made, it is said, as early as 1430, and may have led the way to the perfection of the invention. This seems to be the exact extent of his claim to the discovery. The merit of forming movable metal types, in fact, the art of printing, is now proved, almost beyond a doubt, to belong to John Gutemberg, of Mayence. The Dutch, however, do not abate their claims, and a controversial war is still waged on this subject. Haarlem still possesses a type foundery, celebrated especially for Hebrew and Greek types

cast in it.

Haarlem is also famous for its hyacinths, tulips, and other flowers, which grow in the utmost luxuriance and beauty in a soil particularly congenial to them, viz. a combination of sand, loam, and bog earth, while water lies so near the surface that their roots readily find nourishment. The latter end of April, and the beginning of May, is the time when the beds are in their greatest beauty; but it is at other seasons worth while to visit one of the numerous nursery gardens in the outskirts of the town, where there is at all times something to be seen, and where roots and seeds may be purchased. (N. B. There is a heavy duty in England on flower roots.)

The gardens of a great part of Europe are supplied from Haarlem, and there is little doubt that the taste for cultivating flowers originated in Holland; but the trade in tulips is not carried on as in the days of the Tulipomania, and 100 florins is now a very large sum for a root.

Of

"The enormous prices that were actually given for real tulip bulbs, of particular kinds, formed but a small fraction of the extent to which the mercantile transactions of this gaudy flower was carried. If we may give credit to Beckman, who states it on Dutch authorities, 400 perits in weight (something less than a grain) of the bulb of a tulip named Admiral Leifhen, cost 4400 fl.; and 200 of another, named Semper Augustus, 2000 fl. this last, he tells us, it once happened there were only two roots to be had, the one at Amsterdam, the other at Haarlem; and that for one of these were offered 4600 fl., a new carriage, two grey horses, and a complete set of harness; and that another person offered 12 acres of land. It is almost impossible to give credence to such madness. The real truth of the story is, that these tulip roots were never bought or sold, but they became the medium of a systematised species of gambling. The bulbs, and their divisions into perits, became like the different stocks in our public funds, and were bought and sold at different prices from day to day, the parties settling their account at fixed periods; the inuocent tulips, all the while, never once appearing in the transactions. Before the tulip season was over,' says Beckman, more roots were sold and purchased, bespoke and promised to be delivered, than in all probability were to be found in the gardens of Holland; and when Semper Augustus was not to be had any where, which happened twice, no spe. cies, perhaps, was oftener purchased and sold.' This kind of sheer gambling reached at length to such a height,

to interfere, and put a stop to it.". Family Tour in South Holland.

The Teylerian Museum, an institution for the promotion of learning, founded by an opulent merchant, after whom it is named, contains a few good paintings of modern Dutch artists, and a collection of coins and fossils: among the latter are one or two curious specimens, described by Cuvier, and a laboratory well stored with philosophical instruments.

The Haarlem Society possesses a Museum of Natural History.

The private collection of paintings belonging to Miss Hoofman will afford much gratification to the lovers of the fine arts.

There are some good pictures in the Stadhuis by Frans Hals, a painter little known in England, but whose merits may here be fully appre ciated.

A great many cotton factories have of late years been established in this neighbourhood under the patronage of the king; they have increased both in number and the quantity of goods they manufacture since the separation of Holland from Belgium.

There are extensive Bleacheries of linen here: they owe their reputation to some peculiar property supposed to exist in the water. Before the discovery of bleaching by chlorine, the fine linens made in Silesia, as well as those of Friesland, were sent hither to be bleached; and being then exported direct to England, were named after the country from whence they were embarked, not that in which they were made. Such fabrics are still known in commerce by the name of Holland.

Haarlem is the birth-place of the painters Wynants, Ostade, Wouvermans, Berghem, and Ruisdael.

In the environs of Haarlem are some agreeable walks; one of these is to Brederode, a ruined castle, which belonged to the lords of the same