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principally to German history. Some | statues, coats of arms, &c. may give of them had been previously trans- | some notion of former splendour: it ferred to Paris from the Vatican by is the inn called Zum Ritter, from the the French army. It is related, that figure of a knight on the top: it was Tilly, being in want of straw after built in 1592. It stands in the markettaking the castle, littered his cavalry place, near the Church of the Holy with books and MSS. from the library Ghost, in which many electors and of the Elector, at that time one of the counts palatine were buried. Their most valuable in Europe.
fine monuments were destroyed by the The curiosities of this collection French in 1793, when neither reveas it at present stands are, a codex of rence for the dead nor the sacredness the Greek Anthology, X Ith century; of the building prevented it becoming MSS. of Thucydides and Plutarch of the scene of slaughter and sacrilege. the Xth and XIth, and many auto- The church is divided by a partition graphs of remarkable persons; Lu | wall between the Catholics and Pro. ther's MS. translation of Isaiah; his testants, and the two services are exhortation to prayer against the performed under the same roof. The Turks; and a copy of the Heidelberg | resistance of the townspeople to one Catechism, annotated by him; the l of the electors, who wanted to deprive prayer-book of the Electress Eliza- | the Protestants of their half of this beth (James I.'s daughter); a mass church, occasioned him to remove the book, ornamented with miniatures, Electoral court from Heidelberg to by John Dentzel of Ulm, 1499. The to Mannheim in 1719, 20. library is freely open to all persons The Church of St. Peter's is remarkfor 2 hours daily, except on Sundays. able as being the oldest in the town, The Anatomical and Zoological Mu and because Jerome of Prague, the seums are placed in a building in the companion of Huss, attached to its suburb, formerly a Dominican con door his celebrated theses, which he vent.
maintained, at the same time exSeveral professors have good Pri- pounding the reformed doctrine, to a vate Collections ; the best are Creuzer's large multitude of hearers assembled cabinet of antiquities; Leonhard's in the adjoining church-yard. Here fossils and minerals, particularly rich also is the single tomb of Olympia in specimens illustrative of the geo- Morata, who combined the feminine logy of this part of Germany; and grace and beauty of a woman with Professor Bronn's fossils of the neigh- the intellect and learning of a man. bourhood of Heidelberg. There is | Persecuted as a heretic in Italy, the also a dealer in minerals, the pro- | land of her birth, she was forced to fly, duce of the neighbouring district, at along with her husband, a German, No. 211, Schiffgasse.
and at length settled at Heidelberg, The Museum Club (40.) contains where she delivered lectures to a large reading, ball, and concert rooms; and and admiring audience. Her extraa restaurant for members.
ordinary acquirements in learning, Neither the public nor private her beauty, misfortunes, and early buildings in the town are at all re- | death, shed a peculiar interest upon markable in an architectural point of her grave. view, chiefly owing to the destruction The objects of greatest interest here caused by repeated sieges. One house are the Castle and the views of the however survives, which, in the richly Rhine and Neckar valley. decorated façade ornamented with
a a a. Footpath leading up to the Castle. I k. Frederick IInd's Buildings (1549). 1. Carriage Road.
1. Oldest part of the Castle, begun in 1300 c. Platform or Terrace.
by the Elector Rudolph. d. Building of Frederick IV. (1607). The m. Rupert's Building, begun 1400. statues in the facade are ancestors of the n. Well, under a Canopy supported by reigning house of Bavaria, from Charle pillars brought from Ingelheim (of Odeninagne and Otho of Wittelsbach.
wald granite). e. Cellar containing the Tun.
0. Grand Gateway (1355), with Portcullis. f. Entrance to it.
p. The Blown-up Tower. g. Building of Otho Henry, or Ritter 9. The Gate raised in honour of the Saal, begun 1549, finished 1559. This is the English Princess Elizabeth, daughter of finest portion of the Castle; it is in the best James I.: her great-grandson was George I. style of Italian architecture, and the sculp r. The Garden. ture with which it is decorated is of high s. The English building erected for the merit.
Princess Elizabeth by her husband the h. Octagon Tower (1525), first struck by Elector Frederick (1612). the lightning which finally consumed the t. Tower built by Elector Lewis V. 1533. Castle in 1764.
Its walls are 22 feet thick. It was destroyed i. Library Tower.
I by the French, 1689.
The Castle, anciently the residence | are by no means contemptible as of the Electors Palatine, presenting works of art. the combined character of a palace The English traveller will view and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. with some interest that part of the The building displays the work of castle called the English palace (s), various hands, the taste of different from its having been built for the refounders, and the styles of successive ception of the Princess Elizabeth centuries: it is highly interesting for Stuart, daughter of James I., and its varied fortunes, its picturesque grand-daughter of Mary Queen of situation, its vastness, and the relics Scots. The triumphal arch (9), of architectural magnificence which it having pillars entwined with ivy still displays, after having been three leaves, was erected by her husband, times burnt, and having ten times the Elector Frederick V., afterwards experienced the horrors of war. Its King of Bohemia, to celebrate their final ruin, however, did not arise from nuptials; it led to the flower-garden those causes ; but after the greater which he caused to be laid out for part of the building had been restored her pleasure, and it still goes by the to its former splendour in 1718–20,it name of Elizabethen Pforte. was set on fire by lightning in 1764: « When her husband hesitated to and since the total conflagration which accept the crown of Bohemia, this ensued, it has never been rebuilt or high-hearted wife exclaimed, “Let me tenanted. It is at present only a rather eat dry bread at a king's table collection of red stone walls, and has than feast at the board of an elector :' remained roofless for nearly a century. | and it seemed as if some avenging It is approached by a carriage-road demon hovered in the air, to take her from behind, and by a winding foot- literally at her word; for she and her path on the side of the Neckar. The family lived to eat dry bread - ay, oldest part remaining is probably and to beg it before they ate it; but th at built by the Electors Ru. she would be a queen.” Mrs. JAMEdolph and Rupert. It has all the son. The granite pillars supporting character of a stronghold of the mid- | the canopy of the well (n) in the dle ages, and the teeth of the port corner of the court of the castle are cullis still project from beneath the said by some to have been brought archway leading to it. The Friede from Charlemagne's palace at Ingelrichsbau, named from the elector, heim, though they are undoubtedly who built it in 1607, is distinguished derived from the quarry in the by excessive richness of decoration : Odenwald. (See p. 471.) its façade to the south is ornamented In a cellar under the castle (e, f) is with statues of ancestors of the elec- the famous Heidelberg Tun; it is the toral family from Charlemagne. The largest wine cask in the world, being part of the building most deserving capable of holding 800 hogsheads, of admiration, for the good taste of 283,200 bottles, which is far less, after its design, and the elegance of its all, than the dimensions of the porter decorations, is that which overlooks vat of a London brewer. In former the river, and extends along the east days, when the Tun was filled with side of the quadrangle (g in the plan), the produce of the vintage, it was built by Otto Henry (1556), in the usual to dance on the platform on style called cinque cento, which is the top. It has, however, remained allied to the Elizabethan of England. empty since 1769, more than half a The statues of heroes from sacred and century. profane history, which decorate the One of the towers which formed front, though of (keuper) sandstone, the outer defences of the Castle (der
Gesprengte Thurm) (p), was under- | this holy mountain, clad in black, and mined and blown up by the French ; | wearing a white cross in front and but so thick were the walls, and so behind. In the Thirty Years' War, strongly built, that though nearly the Tilly opened his trenches to bombard whole of one side was detached by the the town from this point. explosion, instead of crumbling to | About 50 yards above the bridge, pieces, it merely slid down from its on the right bank, in a solitary inn place, in one solid mass, into the ditch, called Hirschgasse, the students' duels where it still remains. Subterranean are fought. Four or five sometimes passages, for the most part still pre take place in a day; and it is no unserved and accessible, extend under common thing for a student to have the ramparts.
been engaged in 25 or 30, as principal, The Gardens and Shrubberies round in the course of 4 or 5 years. the castle, and the adjoining Terrace, | The Konigstuhl, the highest bill in to the eastward, afford the most this district, lies behind the town and agreeable walks and splendid points castle. The summit may be reached of view it is possible to conceive | in 1, or 1; hour's walk, and the view over the Neckar, issuing out of its is the most extensive in the neighvine-clad valley, and winding throughbourhood. A lofty tower has been a plain of the utmost fertility to join erected for the convenience of visitthe Rhine, which appears here anders, who often repair hither to see there in distant flashes glittering | the sun rise, and if possible to exin the sun. Spires and towers pro tend the limits of the panorama, which claim the existence of cities and vil includes the valleys of the Rhine and lages almost without number, and the Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt Moun» landscape is bounded by the outline tains on the W., the Taunus on the of the Vosges mountains.
N. W., the ridge of the Black Forest The best general view of the build on the S., with the castle of Ebering may be obtained from the extre steinburg, near Baden, and the spire mity of the terrace raised upon arches, of Strasburg Minster, 90 miles off. and projecting over the Neckar. The Tilly bombarded the town from this castle, however, is so grand an object, hill, after his attack from the right and the surrounding country so ex bank had failed: remains of his ceedingly beautiful, that the stranger trenches are still visible. will hardly be satisfied with seeing it There is a small tavern near the from one point. He should mount top, called Kohlhof, where persons the heights on the right bank of the anxious to see the sun rise sometimes Neckar, either by a path leading from pass the night previously. the end of the bridge, which is steep, The banks of the Neckar above or by a more gradual ascent from Heidelberg are very interesting, and Neuenheim. An agreeable path, afford many pleasant excursions. The easily accessible, called the Philoso course of the Neckar is described in pher's Walk, conducts along the slope the Handbook for Southern Germany. of the hill fronting the town. The A road, overlooking the Neckar, hill behind it, which stands in the runs froin the castle, along the shoulangle between the valley of the Rhine der of the hill to the Wolf's Brunnen, and Neckar, called the Heiligeberg, an agreeable walk of 2 miles. It is a presents a more extensive prospect. | pretty retired nook, named from a On the top are ruins of a castle and spring which rises there. There is church of St. Michael, which suc a small inn close to it, famed for its ceeded to a Roman fort built on the | trout. Here, according to tradition, spot. In 1391, the wild sect called the enchantress Jetta, who lived on Flaggellants made a pilgrimage to the spot, and first foretold the greatness of the house of the Palatinate, pulled down; what remains is turned was torn in pieces by a wolf.
into a cavalry barrack. In the garThe Gardens of Schwetzingen, ondens are some Roman altars and mile. one of the roads to Mannheim, are stones found in the neighbourhood. about 7 miles distant. (Route CIII.). A straight avenue of trees, 2 miles
Heidelberg is a very cheap place of long, leads into residence, provisions being moderate 3 CARLSRUHE.- Inns: Post good, and abundant. An English gentle but very dear; H. d'Angleterre, very man, who resided here in 1834, states good; Erb Prinz not good. Čarlsa his expenses for the year to have been ruhe, the capital of the Grand Duchy but 3801., including horses, carriage, of Baden, the seat of government and house-rent, and servants. At Flo- of the chambers of representatives, rence, he spent within the same space and residence of the court and foreign of time, and living in the same style, ministers, contains 22,000 inhabitants. 1800l. exclusive of horses and carriage. It is a pretty but rather dull town,
Heidelberg is a sort of head-quar and one of the youngest capitals of ters for Lohnkutscher ($ 34.). Many Germany, as it was not begun till proprietors of coaches living here pos 1715. It owes its origin, not to any sess 30 horses, so that the traveller fitness in the situation for trade or will be at no loss for opportunities of manufactures, but solely to the acciproceeding from this in any direction. dent of the Margrave Charles of
Eilwagen go daily to Frankfort and Baden building a hunting-seat on the Darmstadt, Mannheim and Mayence; spot, which he fixed on from its seto Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg and clusion and retirement, the surroundBasle, Heilbronn, Stuttgard, and Mu- ing country being at the time an alnich; and twice a week to Würzburg | most uninterrupted forest. He called and Nuremberg.
this retreat “ Charles's Rest.” In a
few years, however, his solitude was The journey fronz Heidelberg to invaded, and converted into a popuCarlsruhe takes about 7 hours in lous settlement, and the hunting-lodge posting. The road to the S. of Hei- became the nucleus of a new city, delberg scarcely retains any trace of which derived from it the name of the beauty of the Bergstrasse. Karls-ruhe. It is regularly built, in
2 Wiesloch.--The large building the form of a fan, or rather of a wheel. below the road on the right called The main streets, like the spokes, all Kesslau was formerly a Ducal Pa radiate from the palace, which termilace, but is now a state prison.
nates the vista in every street; so that 1: Langenbrucken, Inn, Post. the citizens who wish “ to know which
11 Bruchsal.-Inns : Post, or Ba- | way the wind blows” must necessadenscher Hof. Zähringer Hof. This rily look to the palace weathercock. inanimate town of 7200 inhabitants The Palace, Schloss. — “ The inteformerly belonged to the Archbishops rior presents nothing more remarkable of Spire, whose vastPalace, now empty, than the ordinary common-places of a stands near the gate leading to Frank- palace — satin hangings, polished oak fort.
floors, audience rooms, or-molu clocks, About 10 miles from Bruchsal the and crimson velvet canopies.” Autumn road passes through Durlach, once the near the Rhine. In addition to which residence of the margraves of Baden since the above remarks were written, Durlach. An old ruined castle upon the furniture has become old, and the a height to the left of the road was damask hangings rather rusty ; so the cradle of the family in its infancy. | that the palace itself might be passed The more recent Chateau or Palace in over without any loss, were it not for the town is now deserted, and half the view from the turret which sur