Buonaparte it became his palace, and the present King resides in it when ever he visits Amsterdam. The main entrance is behind. The treasures of the once celebrated bank of Amsterdam, which used to regulate the exchanges of Europe, were kept in the vaults below the building. The pictures by Vander Helst and Rembrandt, which originally decorated the interior, are now removed to the Museum; and it is chiefly remarkable for one grand hall, lined with white Italian marble, an apartment hardly to be surpassed in size or splendour. In addition to this, it is worth while to see the view from the tower on the summit of the building. "This alone can give a correct idea of this wonderful city, with its multitude of narrow streets, broad canals, avenues of green trees, running through the heart of the town; houses, with projecting gables, many of them bowing forward or leaning backwards, from subsidence in their foundations. These form the foreground of the picture. The horizon extends on one side beyond Haarlem and Utrecht to the towers of the Hague; and northward, over the royal dockyards and harbour, crowded with shipping, to Broek, Saardam, the ship canal leading to the Texel, and the Zuider Zee. As I stood on the top of the building, the chimes struck the hour of 3: in an instant, the hitherto empty square beneath was filled with busy crowds, hurrying in a stream to the focus of the Exchange, like a swarm of ants on a sunny day."

MS. Journ.

The present Stadhuis, or Town Hall, is a modern building, on the Achter Burgwal; it contains some beautiful paintings.

The Exchange is by no means a handsome building; but it demands some respect, when it is considered that Amsterdam enjoyed at one time the commerce of the universe, and that all the extensive transactions were daily carried on in it. It stands

stel flows; so that the building and large quadrangle within it are, in fact, a bridge. The foundations of this edifice have recently given way, and it is expected that it will soon be replaced by a new building. past 3 o'clock is the daily hour of high change; those who enter after the time must pay a small fine.

The churches of Amsterdam, stripped of almost every decoration at the Reformation, are, as in other parts of Holland, in themselves rather barren of interest, forming a complete contrast to the richly ornamented structures of Belgium.

The Oude Kerk (in Catholic times, St. Nicolas) is remarkable for three exceedingly fine windows of painted glass, executed between 1549 and 1648, for the tombs of several Dutch admirals, and for a list of the persons killed in Amsterdam by the Anabaptists, 1535; and in addition, for a fine set of chimes. The organ is esteemed by many not inferior to that of Haarlem, as far as tone is concerned.

The Nieuwe Kerk, so called, though built in 1408, is situated on the Damrak, close to the palace; it contains among many fine public monuments those of Admiral de Ruiter, the commander who sailed up the Medway, and burnt the English fleet at Chatham; who at different times contended with the English admirals Blake, Monk, and Prince Rupert, and who commanded the Dutch at the battle of Solebay. There are also monuments to Captain Bentinck, killed in the battle of Doggerbank, 1750, and to the poet Vondel. The most recent monument is one to the memory of the heroic Van Speyk, who blew up himself and his ship, in the Scheldt, 1831, rather than yield to the Belgians. (See Route XVII.)

The splendidly carved pulpit was executed by Albert Vincken Brinck,

in 1649.

The churches in Holland are perhaps more numerously and regularly

sermons to be preached on Sunday | are announced several days beforehand, in placards posted upon the walls, like play-bills with us. In most of the churches service is performed 3 or 4 times. The minister wears the costume of the Puritans in Charles I.'s time. —a short black cloak reaching a little below his knee, with a ruff round his neck.

There is an English Episcopal Church here on the Græne Burgwal. A Scotch Presbyterian Church has long been established here.

The Jews, who form one tenth of the population of the town, and reside in a particular quarter, have four Synagogues: the most splendid is that of the Portuguese, which is worth visiting. The streets leading to it seem but a repetition of Monmouth Street, St. Giles's. the same dirt and filthy smells, the same old clothes, evidently the staple commodity, with odds and ends, heaped up, as it were, from all quarters of the world. Nevertheless, the Jews of Amsterdam are, from their wealth, a very influential body. Spinosa the metaphysician

is that painted by Van der Helst, "the miracle of the Dutch School," representing the City Guard of Amsterdam met to celebrate the Treaty of Munster, 1648; an event which, as it first confirmed the independence of the Dutch nation, was justly considered a subject worthy the pencil of the artist. The figures, 25 in number, are portraits; the names are inscribed above, but there are no persons in any way distinguished among them. Sir Joshua Reynolds, in describing this picture,'says that one of the figures represents the Spanish ambassador. This is an error; the person taken for a Spaniard is the lieutenant of the company, Van Waveren by name, and his dress is the uniform of the Dutch schuttery (militia) of that period.

"This is, perhaps, the first picture of portraits in the world, comprehending more of those qualities which make a perfect portrait than any other I have ever seen. They are correctly drawn, both head and figure, and well coloured, and have a great variety of action, characters, and countenances; and those so lively and truly express

The Museum or Picture Gallery placed in the Trippenhuis (a name derived from its former owner), in the Kloveniersburgwal, is open to strangers every day but Sunday, from 12 to 3. It contains the pictures which in Sir Joshua Reynolds's time were in the Stadhuis and Wharf Office, &c.

Many of the pictures are attached to shutters, which admit of being drawn forward upon hinges. A small douceur to the guardians will procure for visitors the advantage of seeing them under the more favourable lights which may be thrown upon them by thus changing their position.

It is completely a National Gallery being composed almost entirely of works of the Dutch school, of which it contains many chefs-d'œuvre.

The finest picture in the collection

tator has nothing to wish for. Of this picture I had heard great commendations; but it as far exceeded my expectation, as that of Rembrandt, the Night Watch, fell below it." Sir J. R. Portraits of 4 individuals of the Company of archers examining the cup which is to form the prize of the best marksman. Sir Joshua calls it an admirable picture. Portrait of Mary, Queen of William III. of England. Van der Helst is a scarce master, and his works are no where to be found in equal perfection with those at Amsterdam.

Rembrandt.-The picture called the Night Watch, but now believed to represent a company of archers, with their leader, Captain Kok, going out to shoot at the butts, appears to have been much damaged, "but what remains seems to be painted in a poor manner."-" So far am I from think

ing it deserves its great reputation, that it was with difficulty I could persuade myself that it was painted by Rembrandt: it seemed to me to have more of the yellow manner of Boll. The name of Rembrandt, however, is certainly upon it, with the date, 1642." Sir J. R.-A far superior painting to the preceding is the portraits of 5 Masters of the Drapers' Company, and their servant. They are seated round a table, apparently conversing on matters of business. The heads are finely painted, particularly the one nearest to the right. There are parts of this painting which, in force of execution, the painter probably never surpassed. The Decapitation of St. John.

Carel du Jardin.- Portraits of the 5 Governors of the Spinhouse at Amsterdam. "They are all dressed in black; and being upon a light background, have a wonderful relief.

The

heads are executed with a most careful and masterly touch, and the repose and harmony of colouring spread over the whole picture are admirable." Sir J. R.-The portraits of this artist are rare, as he is generally looked upon as a painter of landscapes, sheep, and small figures. There are 3 other good pictures by him, and no other collection probably possesses works of his, showing equal excellence.

Gerard Dow. The Evening School, a painting in which the effect of candlelight is wonderfully portrayed no less than 5 different lights are introduced into the picture, and variously thrown upon the 12 figures which compose it. A Hermit in a Cave before a Crucifix, surprisingly finished.-A Girl holding a Light.A Woman at a Window with a Hare in her Hand.

Paul Potter. A Landscape with cattle, and a Woman suckling a Child.

Orpheus charming the Beasts. A Bear Hunt, one of the few paintings by this master, in which the figures are as large as life. A part

the canvass; but, though so much impaired, its original excellence is still to be discovered.

Schalken. William III., a portrait by candlelight. H. Walpole says, that the artist made the King hold the candle until the tallow ran down and burnt his hand. - Two Boys; one eating soup, the other an egg, with his face slobbered over by the yolk; called "Every one to his fancy."

Vandyk.-Portraits of the Children of Charles I.: one of them, the Princess Mary, became the wife of William II. Prince of Orange.-Francis Vander Borght, a masterly portrait.

W. Vandervelde.-View of Amsterdam, taken from the Schreyershoek Tower. "One of the most capital works of this artist." Sir J. R.-Several paintings of Sea Fights between the Dutch and English, in which the Dutch were victorious: one represents the battle between De Ruiter and General Monk, in which 4 English line-ofbattle ships were taken. Several Calms at Sea,-painted with the most exquisite clearness, and with that wonderful effect of distance over the surface of the water which is the peculiar excellence of Vandervelde.

Backhuysen.-The Pensionary John de Witt embarking on board of the Fleet in 1665.. A view of Amster

dam.

Ostade A.: A Painter in his Study. The artist's own portrait.- Ostade, J.: A laughing peasant with a jug in his hand.

Berghem. Several fine Landscapes; one particularly, with cattle splashing up the water as they cross a river.

Ruisdael. A magnificent Waterfall.-The castle of Bentheim. The same subject is to be found at Dresden.

Wouvermans.-A Stag Hunt in this artist's best manner.-The Chasse au Vol, Hawking Party.-A picture representing officers plundered, and bound by peasants. The horse is ex

fine there are besides many others of great excellence.

Teniers.-Temptation of St. Anthony. A Peasant drinking and smoking.

Ferdinand Bol.: Portrait of Admiral de Ruiter. Miereveld: Portraits of William I. and Maurice, Princess of Orange. A Van de Venne Portrait of William I., taken after his death.-Lievens: Portrait of Vondel, the Poet. Terrburg: A Lady in White Satin. The Ministers at the Congress of Munster.-Hondekoeter:

Several pictures of fowls, game, rare birds, &c., unequalled in their class probably in the world. One of the most remarkable is that known as "the Floating Feather," in which a Pelican is introduced with Ducks swimming. -Van Huysenm : Fruit and Flower pieces. - Weenix: Dead Game.-Snyders: Dead Wildfowl.

All perfect specimens of these

various artists.

Gaspar Crayer: The Adoration of the Shepherds. A Descent from the Cross.- Cuyp and Both: Some admirable landscapes.

Jan Steen is perhaps no where seen to greater advantage.-A Baker at a Window, and a Boy blowing a Horn to let the neighbours know that the Rolls are ready.-A Village Quack.

The Fête of St. Nicholas. An occasion when the Dutch every year make presents of bonbons to their children who behave well, while the naughty ones are left without any thing, or receive a whipping.

The story is admirably told in this picture, which is a chef-d'oeuvre of the master.

Van der Meer.-The staircase of the House at Delft, where William I. was shot. (Cloister of St. Agatha.)

The Museum also contains one of the most remarkable collections of Prints in Europe, particularly rich in the Dutch and Flemish masters. It extends to 200 portfolios.

The Stadhuis (formerly the Admiralty) contains good pictures-portraits of burgomasters and citizens

of Amsterdam by Van der Helst, Frans Hals, Govert Flinck, &c. ; also a capital Lingelbach, a view of the Palace while building; and a view of it finished by Van der Ulft.

In the Spin-house or Workhouse, in the Nieuwe Prince Gracht, are several pictures and portraits of Directors of the establishment, by Rubens and Vandyk, exceedingly fine, and well worth notice.

There are several first-rate Private collections of pictures, especially that belonging to M. Six. It contains

-G. Dow, A Girl with a Birdcage, exquisitely finished.-Metzu, A Fishwife.- Cuyp, Sunny Landscape, ships and water ;—and a moonlight view.

Hobbema, Landscape. Ruisdael, Ditto.- Wynants, Ditto.-Paul Potter, Cattle; good.-Jan Steen, A Jewish Marriage. Weenix, Dead Game.

The Galleries of M. van Loon, M. van Brienen, and M. van der Hoop, also contain many fine specimens of the Dutch school. M. Van der Hoop has an excellent Landscape by H. Vandevelde, with figures of the painter and his family.

Amsterdam is remarkable for the number and extensive bounty of the Charitable Institutions which it supports, for the most part by voluntary contributions of its benevolent citi

zens.

It is recorded, that when some one in conversation with Charles II. prognosticated speedy ruin to the city from the meditated attack of Louis XIV.'s armies, Charles, who was well acquainted with the country from a long residence in it, replied, "I am of opinion that Providence will preserve Amsterdam, if it were only for the great charity they have for their poor." This city alone, it is said, numbers no fewer than 40 institutions of benevolence, including hospitals for the reception of the aged and infirm, the insane, orphans and widows, foundlings, &c.

"From all we could learn concerning these public and private institutions for charitable purposes, the fol

lowing summary, taken from an old author, who visited Amsterdam nearly a hundred years ago, may be considered as pretty nearly a statement at the present day.

correct

"This city is said to have twenty thousand poor every day at bed and board. The almshouses are many, and look more like princes' palaces than lodgings for poor people. First, there are houses for poor old men and women; then a large square place for three hundred widows; then there are hospitals for boys and girls, for burghers' children, and for strangers' children, or those called foundlings. All these boys and girls have, every Sunday, and other days of worship, two doits, given them by the fathers of these houses, the which the children put into the deacons' bag when they gather for the poor in the churches. Then there is an hospital for fools, and a bedlam; then there are houses where common beggars, and gamesters, and frequenters of tap-houses are kept hard at work: there is also a house called a Rasp-house (its name is derived from the employment of the prisoners, which at one time was confined to rasping logwood), where petty thieves, and such as slash one another with knives, such as beg with cheating devices, men pretending to have been taken by the Turks, others that pretend wreck at sea, and such as beg with a clapper or bell, as if they could not speak or hear; — such as these are kept hard at work, rasping every day fifty pounds between two of them, or else are beaten; and if they yet rebel, and won't work, they are set in a tub, where, if they do not pump, the water will swell over their heads.

"All these sorts of hospitals and almshouses are stately buildings richly adorned with pictures, and their lodgings very neat and clean. In some of the boys' and girls' hospitals there are 1500; in some 800, and in some 500 in a house. Then they have houses where a man or woman may

"Whether these various establishments are capable of relieving the whole mass of human wretchedness which this capital, in common with all large cities, must contain would require a long residence to determine; but we could not help making the same remark here as in Rotterdam that in all our rambles we had not met with a drunken person in the streets; nay more, that we had not observed a man, woman, or child in rags, or met with a real object of compassion, in any part of the town; and the only beggars that accosted us, and those were in some of the lower parts of the town, were decrepit old men."-Family Tour in S. Holland.

One division of the Spin-house was formerly devoted to the purpose of a house of correction for offences which may rank between a fault and a crime; such as in other countries are punished by the domestic code, but for which family authority is not always sufficiently strict in enforcing punishment; though at the same time the discipline of a prison would be too severe. Thus, a disobedient child, an extravagant wife, or a drunken husband, if their offence were proved against them, and they were sent hither by their friends, were subjected to modified coercion and restraint, until, by penitence, and promise of amendment, they should have atoned for their misdemeanors.

The Dutch are not altogether absorbed in commerce, so as to be able to devote no time to literature and the arts; witness the society called Felix Meritis, which is founded and supported entirely by merchants and citizens. The building is situated in the Keisers Gracht. In its nature it bears some resemblance to the Royal Institution in London. It contains a library, museum, collections of casts