mounts it, called The Bleythurm. This deserves to be seen, as it will give a correct notion of the singular plan on which Carlsruhe is built. The city is nearly surrounded by the Hardt Forest, which is intersected by roads radiating from the palace, and corresponding with the streets of the town. Beyond this are seen the silvery windings of the Rhine, and behind it the Vosges Mountains in France; while to the S. the picturesque outline of the Black Forest mountains, and on the N. those of the Bergstrasse, complete the panorama. The Theatre attached to the palace is open 3 times a week. The opera is very good here. The building is plain in its exterior, but is well fitted up within. Several of the buildings of Carlsruhe are praised for their architecture, especially the Protestant and Catholic Churches, built by Weinbrenner, and the palace of the Markgraf of Baden. A Polytechnic School has been recently finished, in the style of architecture of the middle ages. The Estates or Parliament of Baden hold their sittings here: their debates are open to the public. In the centre of the principal square is a Pyramid of red sandstone, under which the founder of Carlsruhe lies buried. The inscription is prettily worded. After mounting the Bleythurm, and a short walk through the town, the traveller will have seen all that is most worth seeing in Carlsruhe. If, however, he is bent upon exploring every sight, there is a Picture Gallery in the building of the academy, on the left of the palace, the contents of which are not very remarkable, and will hardly afford much gratification to those who are acquainted with the better galleries of Germany and Italy. There is a Museum of Natural History on the right of the palace. Carlsruhe also possesses a library of 90,000 vols. and a botanic garden. The Palace Gardens, and those called Amaliensruhe, which are thrown open most liberally to the public, afford agreeable walks. Another plea sant short walk is to the village of Biertheim, where there are good baths, an accommodation which Carlsruhe does not afford. Stultz, the celebrated tailor, is the founder of an hospital in this town, near the Mühlberg gate, which he endowed with a sum of 100,000 florins; he was in consequence created a baron. In the shop of Mr. Creutzbauer the bookseller, will be found a number of interesting publications, engravings of all sorts, with guide-books, and views of the Rhine, and of Baden, &c. The Club (§ 40.) is called the Museum; strangers may be admitted to it by a member. All the German, many French, and a few English papers are taken in here. Eilwagen go from Carlsruhe to Munich and Vienna 3 times a-week: daily to Stutgard, Frankfort, Basle, and Baden. Carlsruhe is about 6 miles distant from Leopoldshafen, on the Rhine, whence the steam-boats set out to Strasburg and Mayence. (Route CII.) There are two roads from Carlsruhe to Rastadt; that by Durmersheim is said to be the better, and a little shorter, though the postmasters' distances are the same both ways. The duchy of Baden is one of the most fertile districts in Germany, and that part of it through which the road to Switzerland passes produces tobacco in large quantities, maize, hops, hemp and flax, besides every species of grain. It is a country of wine also, and oil, as the hills are clothed with vineyards, and the roads are shaded by luxuriant walnut-trees, from the nuts of which an excellent and clear oil is pressed, nearly as good for culinary purposes as fine olive oil. The agricultural peasantry in this country commonly wear cocked hats, even in the fields, -a singular decoration for a ploughboy. 1 Ettlingen, at the entrance of the Alb Thal, is a place of 3300 inhabitants. There is a large cotton and paper-mill here. 2 Rastadt.-Inns: Poste, Goldenes Kreutz;- Stern. A town of 5600 inhabitants, on the Murg: it is a dull and unimportant place. The Palace, built by the eccentric Margravine Sibylla (p. 484.), is a large edifice of red sandstone. It was the residence of the last margraves of Baden, but is now uninhabited, and has a deserted and decaying appearance. Its design is on the whole handsome; and it has a further claim to attention, because two Congresses, important in the annals of Europe, have assembled under its roof. One in 1714, when Marshal Villars and Prince Eugene signed a treaty of peace in the small unpainted cabinet, its walls stained with ink-spots, still pointed out to visitors; the second, in 1797-99, which was terminated abruptly by the mysterious murder of the French envoys, as they were quitting the town, after a conference. No satisfactory light has ever been thrown upon the instigators or perpetrators of this foul assassination, and direct violation of the law of nations. The Picture gallery (so called) is filled with a great deal of trash; but in another apartment are preserved the Turkish trophies, horsetail standards, arms, &c., gained by the Margrave Louis in his successful campaigns against the Turks, together with the armour he wore, and his portrait. In further testimony of his successful valour, whole-length portraits of 4 Circassian slaves are pointed out. They formed part of the victor's share of the booty, and accompanied him home. How they were received by the lady Sibylla, his wife, does not appear to be known. About 10 minutes' walk outside the town gate is the spot where the French deputies to the Congress were murdered. made a fortress of the German confederation, as a frontier defence against France. one The great highway from Frankfort to Basle divides at Rastadt: branch diverges to the right to Kehl and Strasburg; approaching the Rhine, it is called the Rheinstrasse (Route CVII.): the other continues under the hills, and is called Bergstrasse (not to be confounded with the Bergstrasse N. of Heidelberg), which we shall follow, and describe. The Eilwagen between Frankfort and Basle takes each road on alternate days. The two routes unite together again at Dinglingen. On quitting Rastadt, the road passes through the villages of Sandweyer and Oes. At the latter place a road turns off to Baden, 3 miles distant. (Route CVI.) We then cross the Oes; and, after passing Sinzheim and Steinbach, reach 2 Bühl. · Inn: Post. About 3 miles from Bühl, at Sasbach, on the left of the road, stands an obelisk of granite, erected in 1829 by the French, to mark the spot where their great general Turenne was killed by a cannon ball, while reconnoitring the Austrian army in 1675. This is the 4th monument which has been set up to his memory, the others having been destroyed. His death arrested instantly the success of the French arms, no general in his army being found capable of following up his plans: and the most contradictory and futile orders were issued; till the troops, discouraged by inaction and failure, exclaimed, in irony, "Lâchez la pie (the piebald charger of Turenne, upon which he had so often led them to victory); elle nous conduira.” 1 Achern. The bowels of Turenne were interred in the little chapel of St. Nicholas; his body was conveyed to France. A little beyond Renchen we cross the Rench, a stream descending from the Kniebis. 2 Appenweier. A road goes from It is rumoured that Rastadt is to be hence over the Kniebis to Freuden stadt and Stutgard (39 miles) by Oppenau (Inn: Krone: not a regular post station, but will supply post-horses); 3 Freudenstadt. The spire of Strasburg Minster is visible on the right. 1. OFFENBURG.-Inn: La Fortune (Pfählers), good: a capital cuisine, and a clever and obliging host who understands, the humours and wants of the English, as well as their language. Excellent Affenthaler wine may be had here. Another Baden wine called Klingelberger is exported by the host, at a moderate rate; as well as Kirschenwasser, from the Black Forest; da Poste. Offenburg is a town of 3700 inhabitants, situated at the entrance of the valley of the Kinzig, on the direct road from Strasburg to Schaffhausen (Route CVIII.), which here crosses the road from Frankfort to Basle. Strasburg is about 12 miles distant. 21 Dinglingen. The two branches of the high road from Frankfort to Basle, which divided at Rastadt, here reunite. The western branch is the direct road from Basle to Strasburg. The village of Kuppenheim is the birthplace of Mr. (afterwards baron) Stultz, the tailor: a neat monument of cast iron has been set up by the roadside to his memory. At Ettenheim, a little to the E. of the road, a party of French emigrants, among whom was the unfortunate Duc d'Enghien, were seized, 1804, by 2 columns of troops sent by Napoleon across the Rhine, who thus committed a breach of the law of nations, and a violation of the territory of the German confederation. The duke was inhumanly shot, 6 days after. 21 Kensingen.-Inn: Salmen: good and clean: dinner 3 fr.; bed 2 fr. 1 Emmendingen. Beyond the town, the castle of Hochberg, one of the most extensive ruins in Germany, appears on the left. About 3 miles N. of Freyburg, on the high road, is This, the ancient capital of the Breisgau, is situated in one of the most beautiful spots in the Black Forest, upon the Treisam, at the mouth of the Höllenthal (Valley of Hell). It has 14,000 inhabitants. The Minster is remarkable as being almost the only large Gothic church in Germany which is finished: it is equally admired for the delicate symmetry of its proportions, and the good taste of its decorations. It was begun, under Conrad of Zähringen, between 1122 and 1152. The nave, west front, tower, and rich porch below it, date from the XIIIth century, 1236-72, and are by far the finest part of the building the choir is inferior, and of a later period, 1513. The oldest part is that between the choir and the nave, with the external turrets, in the round style. The tower exhibits ́a skilful transition from a square base into an octagon, which is surmounted by a pyramidal spire of the most exquisite open-work tracery, all of stone, of extreme boldness as well as light ness. : The height of the tower is 380 feet. It presents one of the very few instances in which a tower of the kind has been completed. Beneath it is the main entrance into the church, by a magnificent portal, richly ornamented with sculptures. The interior of the church contains the monument and armed effigy of Berchtold V., last Duke of Zähringen: a curious carved pulpit; and a singular piece of sculpture of the Lord's Supper, consisting of 13 figures, by an artist named Hauser, 1561. The windows are filled with stained glass, of the most beautiful colours: the oldest are of the XIVth century. Some very good modern painted glass has recently been inserted. In the chapels on the left of the choir, as you pass the altar, are some remarkable carvings in wood: one represents the Virgin sheltering beneath her mantle a whole host of popes, cardinals, bishops, &c. Over the north door, leading into the choir, are singular bas-reliefs, representing the Creation of Man, &c. The painting over the high altar, recently set within an elegant Gothic frame work is by Holbein; at least, the shutters with the figures of the 12 Apostles are his. At the back of it is a more remarkable picture of the Crucifixion, by Baldung Grün (a rare master, and a native of the Black Forest,) painted 1512. Beneath the main subject are a row of portraits of magistrates of Freyburg. The University has risen in reputation of late, and the number of students is said to be on the increase. It is the Catholic seminary of the Grand Duchy of Baden: Heidelberg is Protestant. According to the recent concordat, Freyburg is now the see of an archbishop. Near the gate leading to Frankfort a Protestant Church has recently been erected. It is an elegant building in Romanesque (Byzantine), style, with an octagon tower, and has been skilfully transferred, stone by stone, from an old convent at Ettenheim, to which it was originally attached. The Kaufhaus, near the cathedral, is a very quaint Gothic building, resting on arches. It would not be right to conclude the account of Freyburg without alluding to the delightful walks round the castle hill (Schlossberg) about a quarter of an hour's walk from the minster. The eye ranges over the vale of the Treisam, bounded in the distance by the waving outline of the Black Forest hills rising one behind another. The filigree-work of the spire is seen from this to the greatest advantage. The ascent begins near the Schwaben Thor. The beautiful scenery of the Höllenthal, on the way from Freyburg to Schaffhausen, is described in Route CIX. A traveller, not intending to pass through it on his way to Switzerland, should make an excursion from Freyburg as far as Steig, 11 miles, to explore its beauties. The post waggon, which runs through it once or twice a week to Donaueschingen, was, in 1835, a tedious conveyance, taking 20 or 22 hours to the journey. It passes the finest scenes in the dark. From Freyburg to Basle is a drive of 7 hours. 2 Krozingen. 2 Muhlheim.-About 3 miles E. of the high road are the baths of Badenweiler. The waters were known to the Romans, and the baths erected by them were discovered some years ago in a very perfect state of preservation. The bath-house affords good accommodation. The wine, called Markgravler, is grown near this. long ascent from Mühlheim to It is a 2 Kaltenherberg, a solitary posthouse and inn. From the summit of the hill a most extensive view is obtained over the Rhine, on one hand, and the Black Forest hills on the other. Since Baden has adopted the Prussian custom-house system, the examination of the goods and person of travellers coming from Switzerland is strictly enforced on the frontier (§30.) Before entering Basle, the road approaches the Rhine: on its left bank lies Hüningen, a French fortress, now dismantled. 3 BASLE. In the Handbook for Travellers in SWITZERLAND. ROUTE CVI. CARLSRUHE TO BADEN-BADEN. 4 Germ. miles=211 Eng. miles. Eilwagen go to and fro daily, and Lohnkutscher are constantly passing. The post-master at Carlsruhe charges for a post calèche with 2 horses, carrying 2 persons and their baggage, 6 fl. to Baden, including a halt of hour at the Favourite. The post-boy is well paid with 1 fl. 20 kr. The road usually taken is that already described, p. 481., by 1 Ettlingen, and 2 Rastadt. Another road, not Macadamised, sandy, and scarcely practicable, except in dry weather, leads by the Favourite, an old-fashioned and deserted château of the margraves of Baden. The way lies through woods and over heaths, and crosses the Murg a little below Cuppenheim. The Favourite, distant about a mile from that village, was built by the Margravine Sibylla, wife of the heroic Louis of Baden, who fought against the Turks along with Prince Eugene. It is neither large nor very handsome, and any splendour it may originally have possessed is faded and decayed. It is chiefly interesting from the singular character of Sibylla, its founder. In her youth she was very handsome, and not a little vain of her beauty; as a proof of which she has left in her boudoir 60 or 70 portraits of herself, in as many different costumes. The oldfashioned furniture of the château, originally tawdry rather than tasteful, is nearly worn out. There are no works of art in the house; but one or two old cabinets filled with glass, and some singular Dutch porcelain, are kept in the lower rooms. In the garden of the château is an odd, many-sided building, resembling a Chinese temple: this was Sibylla's Chapel. A youth of frivolity seems, in her case, to have terminated in an old age of bigotry and superstition. Before an altar within it, in a chamber designedly rendered as gloomy as a dungeon, she spent the greater part of her days and nights, during the latter years of her life, inflicting upon herself all kinds of privations and penances. Here is still preserved the scourge of whip cord, ending in wire points (like a cato'-nine-tails), with which she used to discipline herself; also, her hair shirt, and a cross of wire net-work, with points turned inward, which she wore next her skin, while 2 circular pieces of the same were placed for her to kneel upon. Her bed was a thin rush mat, laid on the floor; and her only companions were two wooden figures, as large as life, of the Virgin and St. John. These were her guests, and with them she used to sit down to table; equal portions of every meal being served to all three; but their share was afterwards given to the poor. The Favourite is about 6 miles from Baden. 1 BADEN (called Baden-Baden, to distinguish it from places of the same name in Switzerland, and near Vienna). — Inns: Badenscher Hof (much frequented by the English); Zähringer Hof; Salm (Salmon); Hirsch. There are many other inns, and nearly of the houses in the town are let as lodgings, but do not provide dinners. The Sonne and Blume are respectable establishments of this class. The price of rooms varies, according to season and situation, from 3 fl. to 12 or 14 fl. a week. A bath costs 24 kr. 8d.; a bed, 48 kr. to 1 fl. per night; breakfast, 36 kr. All the prin cipal inns are provided with baths, but there is no building here appropriated exclusively to bathing. They have, also, daily tables d'hôte, varying |