the lowest are equally far from showing the base. At certain distances enormous buttresses, broad and high in proportion to the rest, and constructed with still greater solidity, project several hundred toises into the sea. This artificial and gigantic coast is entirely composed of blocks of granite, all brought from Norway; and these masses, which look as if it were impossible to move them, are levelled and squared like a pavement. number of rocks which are seen at one view are sufficient to confound the imagination: how much more when we think on the quantities buried beneath the waves to serve as the foundation of such mountains!" Journey in N. Holland. The The Helder is almost the only spot on the coast of Holland where there is deep water close in-shore. The rush of the tide from the ocean into the Zuider Zee, through the narrow strait between Helder and the island of the Texel, constantly scours out the passage and keeps it clear. The British Forces sent to Holland under the command of the Duke of York, in 1799, landed here, and took possession of the Helder, but were compelled to re-embark a few weeks afterwards, having fruitlessly endeavoured to excite the Dutch to rise, and throw off the yoke of Buonaparte, and having suffered a severe repulse at Bergen. There is a wild dreariness and dull monotony in the aspect of this district, which would render a residence in it hardly endurable, a banishment, worse than death. It is a sand-bank, which man appears to have usurped from the sea-gulls, who have not yet abandoned their ancient territory, but flock to it in swarms, breaking the solitude by their incessant screaming cries. It is only when contrasting the barrenness of nature, and the threats of the sea, with the perseverance and successful ingenuity of man, that an interest is thrown over the whole scene, such as no other spot in Europe can be said to possess. The island of the Texel is inhabited by myriads of sea-birds, and by a primitive race of shepherds, whose flocks produce fleeces of remarkable length and fineness, which are highly prized. They are of a breed peculiar to the island: a sort of green-coloured cheese is made here of the ewes' milk. In returning from the Helder to Amsterdam, the old road must be retraced as far as het Zand; there a bye-road diverges to the east, through Schágen, a beautiful village, situated in a drained lake, called the Zype, the oldest drained land in North Holland. Flax of a very fine quality is cultivated in the neighbourhood, and Schágen is the market where it is sold. The country hereabouts, and all the way to Amsterdam, is the very opposite to that which has been left behind. It is clothed with the richest verdure, and supports numerous herds of cows, and large flocks of sheep, whose wool is famous, and the mutton highly prized; it abounds in old trees, and is sprinkled over with houses, affording, by their neatness, a sure indication of the owners' prosperity. The district is intersected in all directions by canals; and it is curious sometimes to observe the sails of the barges overtopping the roofs of the houses, and slowly moving along, to all appearance over the fields, as the canal itself is concealed from view. The road continues upon elevated dykes, and, after coasting along the Hugo-waard Polder, passes through the village of Rustemburgh, by the side of another polder, the Schermer meer. "In going along the Schermermeer, we arrive at the point where the 3 polders (§ 11.), the Hugoword, the Schermermeer, and the famous Beemster, meet. In the centre of this kind of triangle is built the pretty town of Schermer Horn, the steeples of which, shining amidst the trees, command the superb basins which surround it. The streets extend along the high land in the 3 directions which are open to them, so as to give it a most singular form. In order to reach it, we had travelled along the course of the dyke half way up. On the left, 10 or 15 ft. above our heads, was the great canal common to all these polders, and the sails (of boats?) appearing above the trees every instant hid the sun from us. On the right, at the same distance below us, we saw similar canals and windmills, the sails of which were hardly on a level with us, and in a hollow extending further than we could see, the herds concealed in the tufted grass of the polder. It was completely the world turned upside down. In some countries we are accustomed to see the sails of the windmills higher than the rudders of the ships, and the goats perched above the crags; but in North Holland we must be contented to see every thing different from what it is elsewhere."-Journey in North Holland. The Beemster is one of the largest, most fertile, and best drained lake beds or polders. It took 4 years to drain it: the undertaking was commenced in 1608. The finest mutton in all Holland is fed upon its pastures. It is filled with large trees, the trunks and lower branches of which are actually painted over with various colours; whether to improve and increase their beauty, or with some view to utility in preserving them from insects or moisture, appears uncertain. But the practice, strange as it will appear, prevails in many other parts of North Holland. After visiting these singular and interesting polders, the traveller may either return to Alkmaar, or may make his way by canal or highway to Broek and Saardam, through Medemlik.-Inn, Valk, not good, and dear; 2000 inhabitants; an royal naval academy," through which young sailors must pass before they can enter the Dutch navy as midship men. About 10 miles east of Medemblik, on the Zuider Zee, is Enkhuisen, another decayed town which once sent out 400 vessels to the deep sea herringfishery every year at present it does not employ 50; and its population is diminished one half. Paul Potter was born here. Hoorn-Inn: The Oude Doelen is the only tolerable one. In it are some remarkable pictures of the old schuttery (militia), in the Spanish times, by Rottiers, a pupil of Van der Helst. In the Stadhuis is shown the sword of the Spanish Admiral De Bossu, who was taken, after a severe engagement, by the Dutch, commanded by Admiral Derks. This is the native place of the mariner William Schouten, who in 1616 first doubled the southernmost cape of America, which he named, after his birthplace, Cape Hoorn, or Horn. Abel Jansz Tasman, who discovered Van Dieman's Land and New Zealand, was also born here. Hoorn, like many other towns of North Holland, is sadly fallen off in trade and prosperity. From the Helder to Hoorn is a short day's journey. No Purmerende. Inn, Heerenlogement. Situated at the south angle of the Beemster, on the banks of the Great Canal, and between the three polders or drained lakes, the Beemster, the Purmer, and the Wormer. one should pass through Purmerende or the Beemster without making trial of the produce of their dairies; the cream, butter, and cheese here are excellent. Monnikendam.-A village of 2000 inhabitants. From this place travellers may proceed to Broek, and view that curious village; then to Buiksloot, where they may cross by the ferry to Amsterdam, or, taking the road along the dykes, lengthen their journey to Zaandam; and, after seeing there the the steamer for Amsterdam, as described in Route III. A trip may be made from Monnikendam to the island of Marken, where the manners and the mode of living of the inhabitants are far more curious, because they preserve their primitive simplicity, than in the dull village of Broek. The country forming the west shore of the Zuider Zee is so populous, that the line of villages, towns, and gardens is almost uninterrupted. The neatness, the order, and active industry displayed at every step is highly interesting. In short, the excursion in North Holland is likely to afford much gratification to any traveller who will undertake it. 133 17 2132 = 64 Treckschuits go between Amsterdam and Utrecht 3 times a day, making the journey in 7 hours. Besides the ordinary barges there is one drawn by two horses, which goes the distance of 25 miles (to Utrecht) in 4 hours; it is called de vliegende schuit, and is more expensive, but far better appointed, than the others. English travellers will do well to go by this flying barge. An open carriage, holding 8 persons, and drawn by 2 horses, costs 35 guilders, including 5 for tolls, from Amsterdam to Amerongen. A calêche from Amsterdam to Utrecht with 2 horses costs 15 guilders, exclusive of about 3 for tolls and 2 the driver. The immediate neighbourhood of Amsterdam may be said to consist of an aggregation of polders. (§ 11.) The most remarkable is that called the Diemer meer, one of the deepest of these drained lakes in all Hol land: its bottom lies 16 ft. below the level of the sea, which is sometimes augmented to 30, at very high tides. There can be no more pleasing journey, either by land or water, in any part of Holland, than the route between Nieuwersluis and Utrecht. Both sides of the road and of the river Vecht are lined with villas, summer houses, and gardens (§ 13.), belonging principally to merchants of Amsterdam. It is almost an uninterrupted garden all the way, and the taste of the Dutch for horticulture is here seen to perfection. Several very pretty villages are also passed in this part of the journey; (the most remarkable are Maarsen, Loenen, Breukelen, and Zuilen. 3 Nieuwersluis. Passengers by the trekschuit are here invited to purchase a plateful of fried eels, which are very well cooked at the inn, and deserve to be recommended to the notice of the gourmand. On approaching Utrecht there are various indications that the traveller is about to bid adieu to the flat land: the country presents partial undulations, and a slight current becomes perceptible in the canals. At the outskirts of the town the houses encroach so much upon the canal, that it is impossible for a horse to pass along the narrow paved footway; "he is, therefore, unyoked from the trekschuit, and his place is generally supplied by what the traveller would deem a very unsuitable substitute, an old woman. however, tows the boat along with much cheerfulness, without any great apparent effort, and at a tolerably brisk rate."-Boyce. She, 2. UTRECHT.-Inns: 'T Kasteel van Antwerpen (Castle of Antwerp), on the Oude Gracht, is good; better than that of the same name Op de Ganzenmarkt;-H. des Pays Bas excellent. Utrecht, called by the Romans Trajectus ad Rhenum (ford on the Rhine), and in monkish Latin Ultra Trajectum, whence comes its modern name, is situated at the bifurcation of the branch of the Rhine, called the Old Rhine and the Vecht. It contains nearly 44,000 inhabitants. There is a considerable descent from the houses to the surface of the river; a circumstance which distinguishes this from other Dutch towns already described; the cellars under the quays by the water-side are large enough to serve as storehouses and manufactories. The Stadhuis is a fine modern building. The celebrated Treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, which gave peace to Europe, by ending the war of the Spanish succession, was signed at the residence of the Bishop of Oxford, the British Minister, in a house now pulled down, and replaced by a barrack. Many of the preliminary conferences were held in a back room of the old Stadhuis, still remaining. The act of confederation (in 1579), which formed the foundation of the freedom of Holland, and which declared the Seven United Provinces independent of Spain, was signed in the Public Hall (auditorium) of the University. An inscription intended for it ran thus: Atrium sapientiæ, incunabula libertatis. The tower of the Cathedral, 388 ft. high, detached from the main building, deserves to be ascended on account of the view from it, extending over almost all Holland, a part of Gueldres and North Brabant, and comprehending, it is said, 20 large towns. The nave of the church was thrown down by a storm in 1674. The choir still contains several tombs of bishops of Utrecht; but the building has suffered much from the dilapidations of fanatic iconoclasts. In the part remaining there are some beautiful clustered Gothic pillars, of great height and lightness. The first bishop was St. Willebrod, an Englishman, who left his own country, in the seventeenth cen He who then possessed the land. baptised many thousands of them; and the Pope ordained him Bishop over them; while Charles Martel presented to him the castle of Utrecht for his residence, and the surrounding district, as his see. The University, founded in 1636, has about 600 students. Many of its teachers possess a high reputation. There are collections of natural history, minerals, &c. belonging to it. The late Professor Moll's philosophical apparatus and instruments are very complete. The Mint of Holland is situated here; the machinery for coining is the same as that so long kept a secret in the Mint of London. The coining is done by atmospheric pressure, and a steam-engine works the air-pump. Adrian Boyens, afterwards Pope Adrian VI., the tutor of Charles V., was born at Utrecht, in a house still standing on the Oude Gracht: a house built by him still goes by the name of the Pope's house, and now serves as the residence of the Governor. One of the latest improvements here has been the transformation of the ramparts into Boulevards, so as to render them an agreeable promenade. Since the separation from Belgium, some fortified outworks have been thrown up in front of the town. Their strength lies in the facility with which all access to them may be cut off by inundating the surrounding country. The Mall, called Maliebaan, is an avenue of 8 rows of lime trees, half a mile in length. It is one of the finest in Europe, and was saved from being cut down by the express command of Louis XIV., at a time when his army spared nothing else in Holland. Agriculturists should view in Utrecht a collection of implements of husbandry, containing all the machines and instruments used in Holland: it was formed at the public expense. At the end of the Mall is the veterinary school, kept up also at the public ex The road out of Utrecht, after traversing the long avenue of the Mall, passes for a considerable distance on the way to Nymegen, through a country abounding in wood. Many fine forest trees are seen here, and scarcely any where else in Holland. Zeist, 5 miles from Utrecht, is remarkable for a Moravian colony settled in it, which deserves to be visited. The whole establishment is distinguished for the order and neatness maintained in it, and is supported by the manufactures of the brothers and sisters. On the left of the road, near Zeist, is a mound of earth, erected in 32 days by the French army of 30,000 men, under Marmont, on the occasion of Napoleon being made Emperor. About a mile before reaching Amerongen is a château called Zuilestein, the family seat of the now extinct Earls of Rochford. William III. frequently enjoyed the pleasures of the chase here. 3 AMERONGen. Inn, the Post, or Red Hart (Rode Hart): civil people, but very high charges, and not very good accommodation. Lord Athlone has a seat near this. Before reaching Rheenen, on the right-hand side, somewhat below the road, at the entrance of a meadow, under some willow trees, the English traveller will remark the mounds under which the bones of some hundreds of his countrymen are mouldering. In 1794 the hospital of the Duke of York's army was at Rheenen, and the mortality very great; this spot was the cemetery of the hospital. RHEENEN.-Inn, Koning van Boheme; is a town of 1600 inhabitants, on the middle branch of the Rhine. There is nothing here for a stranger to see but an old Gothic church. Here died the unfortunate Elector Frederick V., son-in-law of James I., when driven from his kingdom of Bohemia. A large quantity of tobacco is cultivated in this district. The traveller must not think of stopping at the inn at Rheenen: he will find tolerable accommodation at de Ridder's inn at Grebbe, a few miles further, where there are some fortified lines, now abandoned. The road runs along an elevated terrace by the side of the Rhine, to Wageningen. Inn, Hof van Guelderland, not good; it is an inconsiderable town of about 3000 inhabitants, supposed to be the ad Vada of the Romans: it is connected with the Rhine by a short canal. Beyond Wageningen the traveller crosses the Rhine by a flying bridge; the road then runs on the back of a high but narrow dyke, the Thieler dam, enclosing a flat district of meadow land, called the island of Betuwe, because isolated by the 2 arms of the Rhine called Lek and Waal; it retains in its name a memorial of the ancient inhabitants of this country, the Batavi. At Lent, a small village on the Waal, with a tolerable inn, opposite Nymegen, a flying bridge of boats conveys carriage and passengers across the Waal to - 4 NYMEGEN. Inns. Hôtel des Pays Bas the best, clean, with carpets, and near the steam boats, but dear. Plaat's Royal; Rotterdamer Wagen, near the Quai. None very good. Nymegen is situated on the left. bank of the Waal; it has 17,500 inhabitants: the Romans called it Noviomagus. It is a frontier fortress of Holland, strongly defended, and built on the side and slope of a hill, called the Hoenderberg, on which the Romans formed a permanent camp to protect their |