low," replied the captain, pushing aside the bag with his hand; " and it rejoices me exceedingly to think I have been of service to you: but, for your money, I will not touch a piastre of it.- Good night!"

XXI. From the mosque of Skeïkh Ibrahim we walked to the slave-market, which was close at hand. The slaves, all young women and girls, were confined in a suite of wretched cells, closed in front with mats, which were thrown aside, like a curtain, when any customer presented himself. Their number, at this time, was exceedingly small; no caravan from the interior having recently arrived in Lower Egypt. Supposing that we were desirous of becoming purchasers, the jellabis commanded the young women, who were all squatting on the ground when we arrived, to get up and exhibit themselves; which they did without manifesting the slightest indication of disgust or unwillingness, though they were as nearly as might be in a state of nature. Not one was pretty, but there were several whose forms were rich and graceful; their limbs being finely rounded and tapering, and their skins smooth, shining, and of a warm copper-colour. Some two or three were jet black. The oldest appeared to be about sixteen years of age, the youngest not more than eight. The highest price demanded for any of them was sixtytwo dollars.

IBRAHIM PASHA'S GARDens.

47

Tuesday, Nov. 20.

XXII. Though labouring under an attack of fever, to which most persons are liable on their first arrival, I continued my usual excursions, and visited to-day the gardens of Ibrahim Pasha. In riding along, a little beyond the military hospital, we saw a number of his Highness's labourers at work, blasting the rocks with gunpowder, and breaking into some ancient catacombs, which appeared to be of an inferior description. The road, running along the naked shore, was bleak and dreary, and exposed to all the force of the north-west wind; which blew so keen and cold, that our thick Arab cloaks were scarcely sufficient to protect us from its bitterness. The gardens, formerly a mere expanse of sand, are surrounded by a hedge of lofty reeds, which, when full grown, will form an excellent fence, impervious to the sight. The ground is laid out in large square compartments, or beds, somewhat in the French style of gardening; and these are divided from each other by numerous broad walks, bordered on either side with rows of acacias, mimosas, and peach and orange trees. At one extremity of the gardens, near the Sakia, there is a neat kiosk, with a terrace before it, commanding a fine view over the whole breadth of the Mareotic Lake, the canal, and the magnificent expanse of verdure produced by the new plantations which adorn this part of the vicinity of Alexandria. These gardens, it is supposed, are intended to be always left open to the

48

IBRAHIM PASHA'S GARDens.

public. A few small flowers, the last of the year, were blooming near the water-wheel. They were of a brilliant colour, but their odour was faint, barely sufficient to awaken our regret at the absence of the spring. In this neighbourhood were situated the vineyards which produced the Mareotic wine, celebrated, probably through want of experience, by several of the ancients; for, although the soil and climate of Egypt be not altogether hostile to the growth of the vine, there are none of those gentle slopes or hilly terraces in which it delights, and which appear absolutely necessary to bring its fruit to perfection. All the superior wines of Burgundy, I might, perhaps, say of France, are made from hill vineyards; that which is produced on the plain, even close to the foot of the Côte d'Or, being of a watery inferior quality. And this, I imagine, notwithstanding that the richness of the soil is here greatly diminished by the fortunate admixture of sand, must always have been the case with the wines of Egypt.

PASHA'S PALACE.

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CHAPTER III.

MOHAMMED ALI'S PALACE BOGHOS 10USSOUFF.

CONVERSATION WITH THE PASHA-ARMY OF EGYPT - -THE MALTA GAZETTE PROJECTED NEWSPAPER-THE CONSTITUTIONNEL-THE PASHA'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY — THE FORTIFICATIONS OF ALEXANDRIA-THE AUTHOR OBTAINS LEAVE TO ENTER A PART OF THE HAREM, and SEE THE PASHA'S CHILDREN AND RECEIVES A LETTER, conTAINING AN ORDER TO THIS EFFECT, FROM HIS HIGHNESS — PERFORMANCE OF EVENING PRAYER AT THE PALACE PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF THE PASHA-HIS MODE OF TRANS CTING BUSINESS HIS AMUSEMENTS AND MANNERS.

Wednesday, Nov. 21.

XXIII. TRAVELLERS are usually presented to the Pasha immediately after their arrival; but I had put off the ceremony to the last moment, not through want of curiosity to behold so extraordinary a man, but from various accidental causes, of which I could render no account even to myself. On this day, however, late in the afternoon, I rode to the palace, accompanied by Mr. Harris, by whom I was to be introduced; and by the nephew of the American consul, a young gentleman who had been my fellow-passenger from Leghorn; and, on arriving at the entrance, found a number of janissaries and other attendants, in their costly and gorgeous uniforms, lounging about the grand flight of steps which leads to the divan. Having ascended

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THE PRESENTATION.

66

these stairs, we crossed several spacious halls whose lofty ceilings were painted in a chaste and elegant style, and, making our way through crowds of courtiers of all nations, arrived at the audience-chamber, where we found the Pasha and his minister, Boghos Ioussouff, standing at the extremity of the apartment ready to receive us. As we entered, the Pasha, advancing a few steps to meet us, saluted us in the Turkish manner, repeating the salām, or, peace and welcome," and placing his right hand upon his heart. When we had returned his Highness's salutation, our names were pronounced; upon which he took his seat on his lofty crimson divan, and desired me to sit down by his side. On this occasion, he placed himself, as usual, in a corner of the room; where, his whole person being involved in shadow, it was extremely difficult to detect the expression of his countenance, or the uneasy rapid motion of his eye. Boghos Ioussouff, his Highness's first interpreter, as well as prime minister*, stood, with his arms crossed, before us; the other ministers, courtiers, and officers having all retired to the antechamber, as it was understood that I was to be favoured with a private audience. The conversation was commenced in the ordinary way. "You are welcome," observed the Pasha; "I am glad to see you in Egypt. Does the country please you? Are you contented? It is my desire that travellers should be quite at their ease, quite at home, in my dominions."

* He has since been raised to the rank of Bey, or Prince.