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which really came out of Paradise."— Hare.

For route from Nice and Mentone to Genoa, see Route 84.

ROUTE 82.

AVIGNON TO NIMES VIA THE PONT DU GUARD.

RAVELLERS proceeding southward from Paris, and intending to visit the Pont du Gard and Nimes, will find it most convenient to take a carriage from Avignon to the Pont du Gard (18 miles), and go on from thence, 13 miles further, to Nîmes. Those coming from Marseilles may proceed from Tarascon to Nîmes by railway, and cross from the latter place to Avignon via the Pont du Gard. Tourists should have a distinct understanding with the driver before starting that he is to take them to the Pont, and not to stop at the inn at La Foux, 2 miles distant from it.

The Pont du Gard is one of the most magnificent Roman remains in existence. It is formed of 3 tiers of arches, the lowest comprising 6, the middle, 11 of equal size, and the upper, 35. Above the highest tier is an aqueduct, of about 5 ft. in depth, roofed in with stone flags, which was formerly employed to convey, from the vicinity of Uzès, the springs of the Eure and the Arian, a distance of 25 miles, to Nîmes. The Pont du Gard is 160 ft. high and 882 ft. long. Traces of the remainder of the aqueduct are to be seen at Maximin, near Uzès; at St Bonnet, on the way to Nîmes, and elsewhere. When this stupendous work was con

structed is unknown. It is conjectured to have been built by Agrippa, the son-in-law of Augustus, B.C. 19.

There is nothing to attract attention on the road from the Pont du Gard to

NIMES (Hotel: du Luxembourg), This ancient and interesting city stands in a fertile plain. The older part is pooly and irregu larly built; the more modern part is laid out in straight and spacious streets. No town in France can compare with it for its ancient Roman edifices. The walls which surrounded it in the days of the Romans are yet traceable, many parts of them being still in good preservation; but the most remarkable structure of the Roman period is the AMPHITHEATRE.

Having been disencumbered of surrounding buildings, this structure stands out in bold relief. It consists of two stories, each of 60 arcades, 70 ft. high, the lower arches serving as so many doors. There were originally 32 rows of seats, and it is estimated that it would contain 22,000 to 25,000 persons. Corridors, both above and below, ran around the whole of the building. In the subterranean vaults and sub-structures were confined the wild animals, and directly opposite is the room where the men slain in combat were deposited until their burial. The vaults of the lower corridor or portico are like a vast natural cavern; the upper one is roofed with huge stone beams 18 ft. long, reaching from side to side, many of them cracked, and some of them fallen.

The amphitheatre is built of limestone in immense blocks, laid in courses with perfect regularity and without mortar. Mortiseholes in the centre of the upper surface of each block show that the Romans employed the same

means still in use, to raise and handle large masses of stone. The passages all expand outwards, and thus admit of a speedy evacuation of the amphitheatre through its sixty vomitoria. The dimensions of the amphitheatre are 437 by 322 ft. The circumference is a quarter of a mile.

The MAISON CARRÉE is believed to have been a Roman temple erected by Adrian. It is of Corinthian architecture, and is supposed to have been consecrated either in the reign of Augustus or of Antoninus Pius. In the progress of many centuries, it has been used as a Christian church, and also for many ordinary purposes, some of them of the lowest character. The fine Corinthian columns of this building, 30 in number, have been much corroded by time, and two that were contiguous were mutilated in the flutings, to make more room for the passage of a farmer's cart when the temple was used as a barn or stable; and, to afford more accommodation, walls were built up between the columns of the portico.

In the eleventh century it was used as a Hotel de Ville. When attached to the Augustine convent it was employed as a sepulchre, and during the Reign of Terror the revolutionary tribunal held its meetings here. The building is at present occupied as a museum. It contains many interesting objects, especially Roman antiquities: the pictures are not remarkable. There is a beautiful Mosaic pavement taken up entire from a Roman house. This temple is supposed to have been only the centre of a much larger building, extending, with wings and long colonnades, to the right and left, whose foundations have been discovered.

Two of the original Roman gateways of Nîmes are still stand

ing, and are very conspicuous objects. That of Augustus was founded B.C. 16. It is now in the midst of the town, and consists of a double arch, with two sidedoors for foot-passengers, and is flanked by two towers.

The Fountain of the Nymphs is situated in the midst of a beautiful garden or park, and is adorned with statues and vases. It appears at the foot of a wooded hill, and the fountain, rising in a living stream from the earth, occupies a large area, apparently 150 feet by 100; perennial springs give it a depth of 50 feet. The water is pellucid and without sediment, so that it well deserves its classical name. There are subterraneous rooms or galleries for bathers. The walls, and those of the canal, are in part ancient Roman masonry. The whole was repaired under Louis XV. The surrounding park adds very much to the attractions of the place; the trees are large and fine.

This grove is a part of a boulevard which encircles Nîmes; it has taken the place of the ancient fortifications, and gives a very attractive appearance to the city.

The Temple of Diana is an interesting ruin. It is in the side of a wooded hill, above and to the left of the fountain. It was originally semicircular, but the roof has fallen in; and the building was ruined in 1572. It is now cleared of its ruins. Although defaced it is still picturesque.

The chief of the modern edifices are the Cathedral, the Palais de Justice, the Theatre, and the hospitals. In the Esplanade, a fine square, is a fountain with four symbolic statues by Pradier. There are several literary and scientific institutions, and a public library.

Guizot, the historian, was born

here.

ROUTE 83.

PARIS TO VICHY.

Distance 229 miles. Time 8 hours.

Fares, first class, 44.95 francs; second, 33.55 francs.

CHE route as far as MORET, a few miles south of Fontain bleau, is described in Route 81. At Moret (42 miles) the line to Vichy leaves that to Lyons and Marseilles. At MONTARGIS (73 miles) a stop is made for refreshment. Stops are made at GIEN (97 miles) and at NEVERS (106 miles) (Hotel de France). This town is at the junction of the Nièvre and the Loire, the last named river being crossed by the railway upon a long viaduct. It is an old seat of the pottery and china industry. The Cathedral of St Cyr, on a hill, is Romanesque, and has a remarkable doorway and spiral staircase. Passing Sancaize and Moulins-sur-Allier, we reach St Germain des Fosses (220 miles), from which place a branch line of six miles goes south to VICHY (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST").

This fashionable watering-place is situated on the Allier, in a fine valley, surrounded by hills whose sides are clothed with vineyards and orchards. It is visited by many thousands of invalids and others from all parts of Europe. The season commences in the middle of May, and ends in October. The springs are both alkaline and acid. Their temperature ranges from 57° to 113° Fahr., but they vary very much in their qualities, and it is usual to con

sult a medical man as to the waters and baths to be taken. The waters contain carbonate of soda, and are especially useful in diseases of the liver, stomach, and bladder. Many cures of gout and rheumatism are reported. The springs are much frequented by English and Americans. The waters should be taken only under the advice of a medical man. Of the four chi ef springs, the waters are employed as follows:-Grande-Grille, diseases of the liver and all bilious affections; Hôpital, diseases of the stomach; Hauterive, affections of the stomach and urinary organs; Célestine, gravel and diseases of the bladder. The Casino contains reading and billiard rooms, and saloons for balls, concerts, and other entertainments. The Park, of 26 acres, affords an agreeable promenade.

Several fragments of ancient marble baths and Roman coins have been found in Vichy and its neighbourhood, proving that the springs were resorted to during the Roman occupation of the country.]

ENGLISH CHURCH in summer.

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HE whole distance can be done by the Corniche-road, but it is most convenient to proceed to Monaco and Mentone by rail, and then take a carriage for the remainder of the journey.

Leaving Mentone, we enter the Italian territory at the bridge of St Louis, which spans a beautiful ravine. At St Mauro, close to the frontier, luggage is inspected. On the shore, near St Louis, are some caves, in which fossil remains of extinct animals have been discovered, and also weapons and other implements of flint. Crossing the promontory of Murtola, we skirt the shore to VENTIMIGLIA (26 miles) (Hotel: de l'Europe). Its ancient name was Album Intermelium. It is a garrison town, and, prior to the French revolution, was the frontier town of Piedmont. The cathedral and other buildings bear several ancient Roman inscriptions. Two Roman milestones are preserved in the Church of St Michel, one of which is inscribed with the names of Augustus and Antoninus Pius, and with the numerals DXC (590). To the north of Ventimiglia we

*The Railway from Nice to Genoa

was completed in April 1872, As it follows the route here described, no other description need be given.

see Monte Appio, in the range of the Maritime Alps, with two towers supposed to have belonged to a Roman fort. The next place is BORDIGHERA (29 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"), situated in a beautiful neighbourhood. It is remarkable for the great numbers of date-palms to be seen around it; this village having the privilege of supplying St Peter's at Rome with palm leaves, to be used on Palm Sunday, and distributed by the Pope. The road now leads along the coast to ST REMO (37 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). This town is greatly frequented by invalids during the winter, the air being softer than at Nice. It is built on the side of a hill rising from the seashore, covered with plantations of olive trees. Orange, lemon, and date-palm trees abound. The handsome terrace along the sea affords delightful views. This place has grown rapidly for the last few years, and promises to become one of the most favoured of the health resorts of the Riviera. The hotels and pensions are excellent, and the prices reasonable. From the Capo Verde, near St Remo, a fine view of the coast may be had. Passing through Arma, where there is an ancient, square-built castle, and Riva, we next reach SAN STEFANO AL MARE (44 miles), a fishing village on the coast, and, some distance further, SAN LORENZO (50 miles), where a kind of sweet wine is produced. We then reach PORTO MAURIZIO (523 miles), (Hotel : de France). The town stands on rising ground overlooking the port, which is much frequented by small vessels trading throughout the Mediterranean. A considerable trade in olive-oil is done here. The next place is ONEGLIA (54 miles), (Hotel: del Vapore). The town is approached by a wire suspension-bridge, crossing

the torrent of Impero. Oneglia was destroyed by the French in 1792. The neighbourhood abounds in vineyards. From this place we pass through a rich and beautiful country to ALASSIO (68 miles), (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). This busy seaport town is said to take its name from Alassia, daughter of the Emperor Otho, who escaped with her lover into the woods in the neighbourhood. It has recently made claims to be regarded as a health resort, and new hotels and villas have been built, but its attractions are not such as to have brought to it any considerable number of strangers. Complaints are made of imperfect drainage and want of sanitary arrangements. Off the coast is the island of Gallinaria, so called from the fowls once inhabiting it. It contains the ruins of a round tower. We now cross Cape Santa Croce, and pass through the delightful valley of Albenga. Madame de Genlis resided for some time at Lusignano, which lies a little to the left as we reach ALBENGA (72 miles), a town of about 5000 inhabitants. Here are three high castellated towers, dating from the feudal ages. The Cathedral is built in the Gothic style. Above the doorways are bas-reliefs, engraved with runic emblems. In the interior is an octangular structure on Corinthian pillars, now forming the baptistery, supposed to have been a heathen temple. Many Roman remains are found in the vicinity; amongst others, the Ponte Lungo, on the Genoa road. We pass, for a consider-. able distance, close to the shore, through several small places not deserving of particular mention, and arrive at FINALE MARINA (84 miles), (Hotel de Venise). On the hills in the vicinity are the ruins of several forts, built by the kings of Spain, who for

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merly possessed the town. Church of the Carmelites has a fine belfry. On the hill above it is the ruined fort called Castello Gavone. Leaving Finale we pass through a tunnel cut through the Capo di Noli, on the other side of which a magnificent prospect is displayed before us. Noli is an interesting walled town. road passes beneath steep, overhanging cliffs, adorned with fine aloes, which grow spontaneously in the crevices. We obtain a view of Genoa from this point. Facing Spotorno is a small island called Isola dei Bergeggi, containing the ruins of a castle and abbey. Passing Bergeggi, Vado, and other places, we reach SAVONA (99 miles), (Hotel: Suisse), charmingly situated among orange and lemon groves. The manufacture of pottery forms the great staple of trade here. The Cathedral contains some good paintings and fine wood-carvings. The town is charmingly situated amid lemon and orange groves. It has a good harbour. About 5 miles from Savona is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Misericordia, in which are several old paintings, including one ("The Presentation of the Virgin") by Domenichino. Leaving Savona by rail, and passing through a picturesque country, we reach ALBISOLA (102 miles), pleasantly situated at the entrance of a valley, and close to the sea. Continuing along the coast we reach VARAZZE (107 miles), where ship-building is carried on to a considerable extent. On the heights above is the Monastery of Il Deserto. COGOLETTO (111 miles) is the_reputed birthplace of Columbus. There is a large foundry of shot and shell just outside the town. The country beyond Cogoletto is more beautiful than any we have hitherto seen on the route. It comprises every variety of land

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