subject of liquid manure is calculated to mislead; my experience with reference to the liquid manure teaches me the possibility of giving it a dose too much. Liquid manure is to be supplied to growing crops as a stimulant," always considering the possibility of over stimulating. I am ready to admit that celery requires a great deal of moisture in its cultivation, but am of opinion that "too frequent and plentiful" supplies of liquid manure may be given. Your correspondent says, with regard to the different methods of growing celery, that of Mr. Nutt is, perhaps, the best calculated to bring the plant to the gigantic proportions for which he is so celebrated." I wish, in reference to this, to say, that I have been a cultivator of celery nearly 20 years, but have only cultivated for competition one year (1848), and then I only cultivated six plants; out of the six plants I took prizes with five out of the six, being only allowed to show five plants. Two of these plants, when divested of lateral shoots, &c., weighed 20lbs. 14oz., being 5lbs. heavier than any two grown by Mr. Nutt. Which of the two methods is best I will leave it to your correspondent and your readers to decide.— JOHN TURNER, Neepsend, Sheffield.

TO BUILD A VINE PILLAR.-Procure some bricks from a brick-yard, which have been made in a mould which is the segment of a circle. Having laid foundations, cover them with a large flag-stone, or slate, to prevent the roots penetrating downwards. Procure bones, lumps of charcoal, soft bricks and old mortar, all broken to a size equal to that of stones for mending roads, and mix them well together in equal quantities. In the spring, as soon as the strong frosts are over, begin to erect the pillar, which is to be hollow, and one brick's width in thickness. When four bricks in height, fill it level with the composition abovementioned. Turn a strong vine out of its garden-pot-taking care not to break the ball of earth, and plant it side-ways within the pillar, leaving two buds of the stem on the outside, where a hole is to be left in the brickwork large enough to allow for the swelling of the stem. A small quantity of rotten leaf soil may be put under and round the ball, and then the pillar may be erected, filling it with the composition as the work goes on. When the wall is about seven feet high, cover the composition closely over with bricks, using no mortar, or cement. The brick-work is to rise about another foot, and the space above the covering to be filled with good garden soil, and any flowers planted in it, according to the taste of the proprietor. A draining pipe may be placed vertically through the soil, so as to give opportunity of watering the composition in the pillar, when necessary, from long dry weather. Two or three vines may be planted in the pillar, in the way described, according to its extent of outward walling. The hardiest vines for this purpose are the Sweet Water, White Muscadine, Miller's Burgundy, Esperione, and the Black Cluster. It is advisable to prevent the cold water of winter having access to the inside of the pillar. The writer of this paper has two vine pillars, each of them nearly five feet in diameter (outside measurement); but they may be made of any size, not being less than three feet in diameter.-REV. C. A. A. LLOYD, Whittington, near Oswestry.

P.S.-I have in my garden, two of the pillars I have described, and the vines grow quite healthy on both of them. Young vines require rich soil, but when older, do better in the composition in the pillar, which causes the wood to be short-jointed, as vines are in those countries where they flourish

best. I raise a great many vines to give away to my neighbours, and I find the most expeditious way is by long branches, which are cut from vines in the autumn, managed on Mr. Hoare's plan. These are deprived of all buds but two, and the whole branch, is buried but the top bud, which should be near the wall on which the vine is to grow. In this way vines soon become fine plants.

REMOVING OLD FRUIT-TREES.-Having occasion to take down an old wall, against which a Chaumontelle pear-tree had been planted about forty years, I tried the experiment of removing it to another situation. This tree was about twelve feet high, and wide in proportion. It was carefully taken up, so as to injure the roots as little as possible, the branches tied together, and then carried by several men and planted against another wall, which was lower, so that the tree was cut off at the top three feet. This removal took place in the winter. The following summer the tree looked but poorly. The second year it bore seven or eight pears, and made some wood; the third year it made a good deal of wood, and bore half a hundred of fine pears; the fourth (which is the present year) it has made some vigor ous shoots, and borne fourteen pears: all pear-trees have been very unproductive here this year. I am now, by degrees, cutting out some of the old wood, and training in the new. This is a proof that with care, old trees can be removed, and do well afterwards.-M. R.

MODE OF MAKING DRILLS.-Some time since I noticed a letter in your publication with reference to the drill system of sowing seed, and recommending Cobbett's suggestion of a drill rake. I remember trying it some years ago, but from the nature of the soil, and, may be, a little awkwardness on my own part, I could never succeed. I then adopted, and have since continued, the following plan. I should premise that all my beds are four feet wide; wider than which will be found inconvenient in weeding and thinning. I use a straight pole, the size and shape of a common rake handle, about five feet long, with a cross piece of lath nailed on at about a foot from each end, soThis is placed

across the bed, in the situation of the first drill. I stand myself at one end, and place a boy at the other. We both place one foot on the pole, and at the same time press it moderately into the soil: we then take it off the bed, by the part projecting over, and slide it on to the place of the next drill (having first ascertained this by means of the cross piece, which may be graduated), where the pressure is repeated, and so on to the end. It is astonishing how fast this may be done, with a little practice; and the drills thus made, are easily distinguishable, and must be drawn correctly; indeed, the eye would soon be educated sufficiently to dispense with the cross piece altogether.-H. W. LIVETT.

CHEAP DRILL.-Turning over the leaves of the first volume of THE COTTAGE GARDENER the other day, I observed the remark, that you were not aware of there being any cheap drills to be had. It may appear out of season to name this now, but I may forget it before another seed-time arrives, and, if you think the following, which I found answer, will be of any service to your readers, they are welcome. Procure a sound cork, burn a hole through it, then insert a medium-sized quill in this hole, so as to project very slightly at the small end of the cork; take a dry bottle (a soda-water bottle answers very well), put your seed into it, but not more than will half fill

it, then insert the cork described above, and it is ready for use in the following manner. Open a drill with the back of a rake, and, holding the bottle in a horizontal position, so as not to allow the presence of the seed to stop up the quill, shake it gently from right to left, over the drill, and, with a little practice, the seed will come out very regularly, which may be tried over a piece of paper. A year or two ago, having no proper drill at hand, and being anxious to sow some turnips, I made use of the above method; a man and a lad sowing half an acre of ground in an afternoon-one opening the drill, the other sowing-and had an excellent brood.— N. M., Northwich.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

* We request that no one will write to the departmental writers of THE COTTAGE GARDENER. It gives them unjustifiable trouble and expense; and we also request our coadjutors under no circumstances to reply to such private communications.

SPROUTED SEED POTATOES (J. M. P. and A Constant Reader).— Plant them as soon as you can, during dry open weather; do not injure, and, of course, do not rub off the sprouts.

DOVES IN A CAGE (Colone).-These do not require to be kept warm, but we should remove them to the shelter of an outhouse in severe weather.

REGISTERS OF THE BAROMETER AND THERMOMETER (H. N.).— Your thermometer against a post facing the north, and five feet from the ground, is well placed. The highest and lowest points indicated by the two instruments above named occurring in each twenty-four hours is all that you need record. There are two works you may consult with both advantage and pleasure, Belville on Barometers, and Thomson's Introduction to Meteorology.

CACTUS NOT FLOWERING (W. H., Cheetham).-Your plant is luxuriant but does not bloom. Remove some of the soil in the spring and add a mixture of leaf-mould, &c., as recommended at page 44 of vol. 2. Do not give water during the winter, but treat your plant as there directed. Laying in brocoli is described at page 65 of the pre

sent volume.

PROPAGATING BULBS (T. Evans).-Tulips and hyacinths, and other bulbs, produce offsets which may be separated from the parent, and will become perfect plants.

NAMING SEEDLING FLOWERS (Thomas J.).-There is no rule for naming these. To avoid adopting names already appropriated, it is advisable to adopt family or local names, and we think it useful to add some word descriptive of some prominent character of the flower, such as "Thomas's Purple," "May's Orange-spotted." Every seedling of your cinerarias and calceolarias will differ slightly from all others. You can only ascertain whether they differ remarkably and meritoriously by submitting them to the inspection of some eminent florist.

GREENHOUSE (A Subscriber, Rye).-We do not clearly see through the plan of your intended house for plants, to be placed at the end of your cottage, so as to enclose a portion of the chimney that proceeds from the living room. In all such cases, a few lines representing the back and front of the intended plant-house, position of the chimney, &c., would give a clearer idea than a page of description. However, with the heat emitted from the chimney, you will be able with the covering you propose, to keep all the hardier greenhouse plants, and to propagate in the spring. We would advise having a damper in the chimney, at nearly the height of the house; and in cold weather this should be put in so far as would give extra heat in the chimney in the house, and yet not so much as to send any back draught into the living room. In small places one or two strong iron plates might be substituted for the brickwork in the chimney. Where any of the finer plants are attempted to be grown, it is the cheapest in the end either to have a small flue or a pipe with hot water taken from a boiler at the side of the fireplace, with stop-cock to shut it off and on at pleasure. If you raise the house as you propose, as high as seven feet; then, instead of stepping over the front hall, we should prefer a door at one end; supposing the width to be seven feet, then you have a stage or shelves within. We should recommend the front wall to be from four to five feet in height. If you mean to set the plants wholly or partly on the ground, then a height of from two to three feet will be sufficient. The sashes should either be made to slide or be elevated by a toothed iron racket. If half are done one way, and half the other, you can always give both top and bottom air at pleasure. Glazing with three or four inch pieces of glass will answer very well, but not look so nice as long squares of 160z. British sheet; but, of course, the latter will be more expensive. In churring turf you should not pile it into heaps, but expose only a portion at a time to the heating medium, removing that when charred and then placing more in its place. We presume you have burned the turf, not charred it.

CAMELLIA IN A DRAWING-ROOM (J. J. Brixton, and A Subsriber). The camellia in your drawing-room, in which you have fires several times during the week, and which drops its buds and leaves, may do so from being kept too close or too dry. A temperature of from 35° to 50° will suit it; the medium between the two will be best. Keep it in the room, as near the glass as possible, during the day. In mild weather, with the temperature outside at from 40° to 50°, if you cannot open the window, the plant may be set on the window sill outside for a few hours. When the buds are swelling, a good deal of water is necessary: we cannot, however, tell you how often to give

it, that will depend upon the state and number of the roots, the dull or bright character of the weather, and even the dry or moist atmosphere, and the high or low temperature of the room. We can, however, say, water it thoroughly when you do set about it, and then

wait until your services are required again. Perhaps the inside of the ball is dry, and the water gets away by the side of the pot. If you have doubts of this, set the pot in a pail of water-temperature about

50°-for a quarter of an hour, and then allow the superfluous water to drain away, before placing the plant in its saucer, as it should not stand in water.

MUSHROOMS (Ibid).-These will grow nicely in an unused stall in the stable; and so they will do out of doors, with the cover as proposed; but far less trouble would be incurred by growing them in the stable, as much less covering would be requisite.

FRAME FOR PLANT-PROTECTING (Amateur, Thame).-You have one of your frames on a platform, standing on four posts 23 feet from the ground, nailing pieces of boards, an inch thick, and about 6 inches wide, leaving an inch space between each board, to assist the drainage when required to give the plants water; upon this platform you put your frame, then laid an old mat over the bottom to prevent the materials, that might be used for plunging the pots in, falling through the spaces, and have put your pots in coal-ashes. Your plants, in this frame, consist of fuchsias, verbenas, cinerarias, and a few other sorts. You have thought of enclosing the underneath part, except at one end, and then about February or March filling the space underneath the frame with good prepared dung, for the purpose of stimulating the plants. Yon ask, would a little heat underneath the frame do any good at the present time, and whether, if you raise another frame in the same way, it will do for growing cucumbers. A little well prepared dung would be very useful under your frame in hard frosty weather, to ward off the frost; but after the middle of March such assistance would be rather against such plants as fuchsias, verbenas, cinerarias, as the usual complaint is that such plants grow too freely late in the spring, before they can be trusted out into sheltered situations. Good gardeners have grown cucumbers, as you propose, by introducing hot dung into a cavity below the bed; but the plan is dangerous in young hands. Perhaps, after all, you had better grow them in your usual way.

BEES (T. M. W.).-If your light hive, weighing only 15 lbs., be a swarm of the present year, discontinue feeding it till March, and then feed at the top; if it be a stock of two or three years standing, the 15 lbs. may consist chiefly of old thick combs and pollen, and, in that case, feeding must be continued in mild weather through the winter. The food recommended by Mr. Payne will do for the bees to add to their store; if your stocks have 15 lbs. of honey, do not feed till spring.

KEENE'S HYBRID MAIZE (J. W., Sheffield).-Our correspondent wishes to know where he can obtain a cob or two of this grain.

DISEASED HENS (Heydon).-Wash the swollen eyes and nostrils with warm brandy and water as often as necessary; give a peppercorn in dough three days a-week, and a grain of calomel in dough twice during the same time, but on different days. Keep the birds

warm.

APPLE REFUSE (W. D.).-This, which you call, "Pomace, or dross of the cyder pressings," you may use as a manure to your asparagus bed, or to any other kitchen vegetable, without any fear of injury. It will speedily decay and become food for the plants. We should not lay it at the bottom of the new asparagus bed, but mix it now thoroughly with the soil.

WORMS UNDER TURF (W. Newton).-An ounce of corrosive sublimate dissolved in a gallon of water will bring all the worms which come in contact with it to the surface, and then strong lime-water from a rosed pot will kill them, or they may be swept up; but in fine weather a fresh set of worms will take possession of the place, so that a constant warfare against them must be kept up spring and autumn. Your proposal to cut them off by a layer of ashes under the turf, we have tried, but after the first winter they came up as thick as ever. Remember that corrosive sublimate is a deadly poison, and that the vanquished worms must not be given to ducks or other animals as food.

GRAFTING VINES (Horticulturist).—If the roots of your vines, twenty years old, are in sound condition, and you can rely on the wearing of the border, your vine-grafting will be a very straightforward and simple affair. Let the shoots intended for the reception of fresh kinds be cut off to the desired point forthwith. Apply a coating of white-lead to the wound when dry, for fear of "bleeding." Suffer the stumps to commence budding a little before you graft, and endeavour to procure a small growing twig beyond the grafting point. Scions for grafting must be immediately procured. Bury them in soil within a bud of their extremities directly. Graft them as other fruits, as soon as the sap is up, whatever the period; and, after securing the graft with matting, envelop the whole with moss, bound carefully and equally on. Of course, with old vines, the more you reduce the other parts of the vine by pruning, the more power you throw into the portion occupied by the graft.

VINES PLANTED TOO DEEP (Clericus).-Yours is but too common a case. "Deep rots;" bad news this. We fear that there is no alternative but to commence at the outskirts of the border, and progressively to remove stagnant soil; introduce drainage beneath, and lift the roots to a higher level, blending your lime rubbish and mortar, or other drainage materials, with the upper stratum as the work proceeds. As a compromise, you may proceed then to within four feet of the house front, leaving the other portion, if needs must be, to give the plants an impetus towards possessing the new soil. In answer to your first query, what depth ought the roots to be? None deeper than thirty inches, but others as near the surface as possible. To your second query, when may I commence forcing? If you do not disturb the roots, why, you may venture, under your circumstances, to commence in the course of January. If you adopt our stringent plans, you must give up "forcing" this year. You will, however, be amply repaid for the sacrifice in the ensuing one.

GROUPS OF ROSES (C. Jacomb).-For the purpose of filling up a vacant space at each end of your trellis constructed to conceal your kitchen-garden, you wish for two groups of roses. At one end plant Princess Louise, Laura Davoust, and Princess Maria, with three of Gloire de Rosamene before them. At the other end plant Felecite perpetuelle, Crimson Boursault and Myrianthes, with three of the Gloire de Rosamene as on the other side. These six Gloire de Rosamenes must be cut down annually in April, which will keep the bottom of the groups thick and flowering until Christmas. Pillar roses require, as in this case, to have a strong and dwarfer sort for keeping the bottom full, and always when in groups. Two of the evergreens should be accompanied with a different flowerer; but of this we will ask Mr. Beaton to write fully.

ROSA HARISONII (A Young Amateur).—This is one of the dwarf briars, and is not suited for a wall, but will do in any soil or situation -rich or poor-wet or dry-in the sun or in the shade; but a light dry rich soil suits it best. The yellow rose, of which you heard, is very different from Harisonii.

GLADIOLUS INSIGNIS (J. M. P.).-You find this throwing out shoots, for it ripened early, and the fine late autumn weather set it to grow again, and you cannot hope to stop it with impunity. Keep it free from frost, in soil not too dry or too wet, until the winter is over; but all of them will live out in a well-drained border, with a little protection. Your crocuses and hyacinths in a glass vase will do in your parlour where there is a fire daily, but let the crocuses have more air by placing them outside the window occasionally, in fine weather.

NAMES OF PLANTS (J. H. Clapham).—1, Chironia jasminoides; 2, Send us a specimen in flower; 3, Calceolaria angustifolia; 4, Fuchsia microphylla; 5, Fuchsia conspicua arborea; 6, Stachys lanata; 7, Acacia lophantha; 8, Acacia plumosa. Although we know chrysanthemums pretty well, we are not quite certain as to the correctness of the following, owing to your imperfect blooms :— 1, Grand Napoleon; 2, Unique; 3, Elvira; 4, Princess Marie; 5, Minerva; 0, Adventure; 7, Marshall S ult; 8, Bijou; 9, Goliah.

CALENDAR FOR JANUARY.

GREENHOUSE.

AIR, admit at every favourable opportunity, whenever the temperature outside is above 35°, except in windy or foggy weather, especially among heaths, epacrises, and azaleas, that you do not wish to bloom early. Soft-wooded plants should be kept at one end of the house. BULBS and hardy SHRUBS, such as lilacs, azaleas, and roses, introduce from the forcing-house, placing them at the closest and warmest end of the house; calceolarias, cinerarias, geraniums, and Chinese primroses, clean, shift, and supply at times with manure water. CLIMBERS, prune in, if not already done, those that produce their flowers on the young wood; others, such as Kennedyas, now flowering and growing, attend to: and especially train, every day, the tropa olums, if you wish to prevent confusion. FIRES, light in close, dull weather, to enable you to give a circulation of air. Beware of heating too much when frosty, as, without due precaution, the atmosphere will be too dry; it is better to use coverings for the glass. SucCULENTS, unless growing and showing flower, refrain from watering. WATER other plants only when requisite, and perform the operation after breakfast, using water rather higher than the medium temperature of the house. Place a few achimenes, gesnera, and gloxinia-roots, into heat for early blooming. In a conservatory or greenhouse, where no hard-wooded plants to speak of are grown, and where a medium heat of 50° can be maintained, Poinsettia pulcherrima, Euphorbi, and Jacquiniflora, &c, may be introduced from the stove. FLOWER-GARDEN.

R. FISH.

ANNUALS in borders keep free from fallen leaves or other litter; and, if the weather is fine, sow a few more at the end of the month. BULBS, see that mice or rats do not get to them: fresh soot keeps them off for awhile. CUTTINGS of various hardy deciduous shrubs, climbing roses and the like may yet be put in. EDGINGS, see that they are in good order; slate edgings are the best, then box: either may be laid this month. GRASS, keep it clean and well rolled. HEDGES, evergreen and otherwise, inay be yet planted and dressed. LAYERS of evergreens or deciduous shrubs may be made as the borders are cleaned. MANURE, in composts, apply to such flower-beds as may require assistance; and in a solid, rotten state to all roses.

MULCH

all newly-planted trees, &c. POTTED PLANTS in reserve-garden secure from frosts. PLANTING, push forward in mild weather. PRUNE and regulate every tree or bush which requires it: be more sparing with evergreens. RANUNCULUSES, if the soil is dry, plant a lot for another succession. ROSES, prune, plant, and dung, if not already done and wash them with strong line and soot paint, to kill moss and insects. Seedlings and all young plants protect according to their hardihood and strength. SUCKERS, pull up and destroy, unless wanted for increase, as those of some roses, &c. TRENCH vacant ground. WALKS, roll as soon as they are dry after rains or frost, and keep them regularly cleaned. WEEDS, destroy everywhere. WHEELING, reserve for frosty or very dry weather. D. BEATON.

ORCHARD.

ALMONDS, plant. APPLES (espalier) prune, &c.: plant, &c. APRICOTS, plant: prune and train in frosty weather. BRINE, apply with a scrubbing-brush to stems and branches of fruit-trees, to destroy insects, eggs, and moss. CHERRIES (wall and espalier), prune and train: plant. CHESNUTS, plant. CURRANTS, prune: plant. CUTTINGS of gooseberries, &c., may be planted. DRAINAGE, attend to. ESPALIERS, prune and regulate. FIGS, plant: protect from frost. FILBERTS, plant. FORK the surface around fruit-trees. GOOSEBERRIES, plant: prune. LAYERS, plant. LEAVES, collect for various uses. MEDLARS, plant. MULBERRIES, plant. MULCH, put around newly-planted trees. NECTARINES, plant: prune and train in frosty weather. PEACHES (see nectarine). PEARS, plant: (espalier), prune, &c. PLUMS, plant: (wall and espalier), prune.

PRUNING, attend to generally. QUINCES, plant. RASPBERRIES, plant: prune, and dress. SERVICES, plant. SNAILS, destroy in their torpid state. STAKE and support trees newly-planted. STANDARDS, remove dead and irregular branches from. SUCKERS, plant. STRAWBERRIES, top-dress and protect. TRENCH and prepare borders, &c., for planting. VINES, plant, prune, and train. WALLTREES generally, prune and regulate. WALLS: it is a very beneficial plan to paint these by means of a whitewasher's brush, with a liquid mixture of 8lbs. lime, 4 lbs. soot, and 8 lbs. sulphur. It destroys and banishes insects, as well as by its dark colour promoting the warmth of the wall. The liquid employed, in which to mix the above, should be urine and soapsuds-in equal proportions.

Any trees proposed to be regrafted in the spring may be headed down now in open weather, but the stumps of the branches should be left sufficiently long to permit a few inches more to be cut off at the time of grafting. R. ERRINGTON. FORCING STRUCTURES AND PLANT-STOVE. AIR, admit, as often as circumstances permit. APRICOTS (see peach). ASPARAGUS, continue a succession. BARK-BEDS, stir, and renew, if heat declines. CHERRIES (see peach). CUCUMBERS, in pots, introduce: water frequently over head, but rather sparingly at the roots, and train. CURRANTS, water when necessary. FIGS (see vines) they should be in pots in the vinery-if set in pans all the better. FLOWERS, in pots (roses, carnations, &c.), introduce. GOOSEBERRIES, water frequently. HEAD DOWN soft-wooded plants exhausted with blooming. KIDNEY BEANS, sow in small potsabout seven-inch increase the size of the pots as the days lengthen; use now light and rich soil; water frequently. LIGHT, admit as freely as possible. MUSHROOM-BEDS, carefully protect. PROTECT glass in very severe weather, even in the daytime, but under such circumstances do not keep up a high artificial heat: let it be several degrees lower than in favourable weather. NECTARINES and PEACHES, in blossom keep at about 55° during the day, and at night about 40°; water very sparingly; shake branches gently to distribute the pollen; stir earth around often. PINE APPLES (fruiting) may require increased bottom-heat to about 80°: water when requisite: if plunged, and the floor damped, they need but little: temperature in houses from 60° to 65°. SALADING, in boxes, sow. STOVE, temperature, not above 60° in the day, and at night 40°. SEA-KALE, introduce successively. STRAWBERRIES, in pots, introduce: when blossoming, water frequently, and ventilate freely: day temperature not more than 60°. THERMOMETER, watch its dictates out of doors, and regulate your fire occasionally. VINES, in leaf, keep about 60°: in blossom, about 70° during the day-at night 55° to 60°; protect stems outside by haybands, and the roots by fermenting matters. WASH the leaves of all plants, as requisite, either with a sponge or by watering: WATER, soft and warm as the house, apply as requisite: in pots, &c., keep constantly in the house.

The temperature of the plant-stove should not be higher than 60°, by means of fire-heat, even where the most tender orchidaceous plants are growing. At night it should not be higher than 50°, and even 45° is not injurious. Prune and put into good order the heads of specimen plants. Many may be cut down altogether: for example, Aphelandras, Justicias, Poinsettias, &c. After they have been cut down keep them dry for two or three weeks. Cut away, but do not tear off, the sheathy envelopes covering the buds at the bottom of the stems of orchidee. If these sheaths are allowed to continue the water remaining in them causes decay. R. ERRINGTON.

KITCHEN-GARDEN. ARTICHOKES, attend to, shelter, &c. ASPARAGUS, plant in hotbed: attend to that forcing: temperature about 65°, and at night 50°. BEANS, plant, b.: earth up early protect from frost: plant in hotbed. BEET (red), plant for seed. BROCOLI, protect from frost. CABBAGES, plant, e.: sow, e. : plant for seed. CARDOONS, attend to, shelter, &c. CARROTS, SOW small crop plant for seed. CAU. LIFLOWERS, in frames, and those pricked out, attend to; sow, e. CELERY, earth up, shelter, &c. COMPOSTS, prepare and turn over. CUCUMBERS, Sow and prick out; temperature by day 70° to 75°, and at night 65°. DUNG, for hotbeds, prepare; wheel on to vacant ground. EARTH, for hotbeds prepare. EARTH UP and fasten plants disturbed by frost, &c. ENDIVE, blanch, protect. FROST, protect plants from, by temporary covering. GROUND, trench vacant. HORSE RADISH, plant, e. JERUSALEM HOTBEDS, make and attend to. ARTICHOKES, plant, e. KALE (Sea), force, b. KIDNEY BEANS, SOW in hotbed, e. LETTUCES, in frames, attend: transplant, to force: protect from frost; sow on warm border, e. LIQUORICE, plant, e. : and dig up three-year old. MELONS, sow, for fruiting in May: day temp. 75°, night 65°. MINT, force, in hotbed. MUSHROOM BEDS, make, and attend to those producing; procure horse droppings for. MUSTARD AND CRESS, sow in hotbed. ONIONS, clear from weeds; examine stored; sow a small crop, e.; plant for seed. PARSLEY, sow, e.; protect from frost. PARSNIPS, plant for seed. PEAS, SOW; earth up; shelter from frost; plant in hotbed; and prepare sticks. POTATOES, plant in slight hotbed. RADISHES, Sow in hotbed; sow in border, e. RAPE, (for salading, sow in hotbed); (edible-rooted), SOW, RHUBARB, force, b. SALADING (Small), sow. SAVOYS, plant for seed. SPINACH, clean and sow, e. TANSY, plant in hotbed. TARRAGON, plant in hotbed. TURNIPS, plant for seed. WEEDS, continually destroy, and do any work which will lessen that of the following busier months. WOODLICE, destroy in the mushroomhouse by trapping under dry hay, and scalding it in hot water; or by baiting small pots with boiled potatoes, or slices of potatoes under dry moss.

LONDON: Printed by HARRY WOOLDRIDGE, 147, Strand, in the Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand; and Winchester High-street, in the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by WILLIAM SOMERVILLE ORR, at the Office, 147, Strand, in the Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand, London.-December 27th, 1849.

Wren sings.

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6 SUN 2 S. AF. CHRIST. EPIPHANY. Twelfth 7 M

Plough Monday. Usher-moth seen. 8Tu Lucian. Furze Apion Beetle found. 9 W Redbreast sings.

EPIPHANY.-The name of this festival is derived from a Greek word, signifying appearing, or manifesting, because the Christian church celebrates that revelation of Christ to the Gentiles, or heathen nations, which is recorded in the second chapter of St. Matthew's Gospel. Of the nature of the star, or of the revelation which informed the learned men, or magi, of the East, of the birth of our Saviour, we have no information beyond the recorded fact. The names of the three magi, as preserved by the most ancient ecclesiastical historians, are Melchior, Jasper, and Balthusar; and the offerings they made to the infant Christ are believed to have been symbolical-the gold of his sovereignty, the frankincense of his divinity, and the myrrh of his sorrows and humiliation. This festival was first observed A.D. 813. It is called Twelfth day, because held twelve days after Christmas day; and the whole of these days, by a law of Alfred the Great, were ordered to be kept as holidays. In the cider districts of Devonshire and Cornwall, on the eve of this festival, many an old orchardist, attended by his workmen, still visits each of his choicest apple-trees, and, in goblets of cider, they thrice drink some such a toast as this:Here's to thee, old apple-tree!

Whence thou may'st bud, and whence thou may'st blow,
And whence thou may'st bear apples enow!

This being done, they return to the house, the doors of which have been bolted during their absence by the females, who will not admit them, however inclement the weather, until they have guessed the nicety that is roasting on the spit for supper.

PLOUGH MONDAY, or first Monday after the close of the Epiphany, was a rural festival instituted by our forefathers on the occasion of their resuming the labours of the field. "Plough Monday," says Tusser Redivivus, "puts them in mind of their business. In the morning the men and the maid-servants strive who shall rise earliest. If the ploughman can get his whip, or other field implement, to the fireside before the maid hath her kettle on, then she loseth her Shrove-tide cock, and it wholly belongs to the men. Thus did our forefathers strive to allure youth to their duty, by providing them innocent mirth as well as labour.

METEOROLOGY OF THE WEEK.-We have now entered upon the coldest fortnight of the year. The average highest temperature of the above seven days, from observations made during the last twentythree years, is 40.6°, and the average lowest temperature during the same period 30.9°. The greatest natural heat during these years occurred on the 7th of January, 1845, when the thermometer rose to 45°; and the most extreme cold was on the 7th and 8th in 1841, when the thermometer fell to 6°, or twenty-six degrees below freezing. During these last twenty-three years there have been of this week 107 fine days, and 54 during which rain fell.

NATURAL PHENOMENA INDICATIVE OF WEATHER. As long ago as the days of Aratus and Virgil, it was observed that the croaking of Frogs, when more general and louder than usual, indicates the approach of rain. Yellow frogs being numerous in the hay-field is considered, by the mowers, a sure sign of fine weather. Geese washing themselves or taking flight with unusual energy and noise, portend rain. When Wild Geese and other migratory water-fowl are seen flying in unusual numbers to the southward or westward, they indicate the coming of severe weather, and their early appearance is usually a forerunner of a hard winter.

INSECTS. At this time may be found, and indeed throughout the winter may be found, the larva of the Ghost Moth in its winter quarters, especially in and near hop-grounds. It is a hollow, excavated beneath a stone, exactly of the size of the larva, and lined on all sides with silk. The caterpillar of this moth feeds upon the roots of the hop. It is the Heptalus humili of some naturalists, and the Phalana and Gorgopis humili of others. The sexes of this moth differ in colour more than those of any other British moth. Our drawing represents a male of the natural size, and its wings on the upper side are pearly white; but the females are yellow, veined with orange. She lays a great number of small black eggs, resembling grains of gunpowder. The male being often seen taking his curiously pendulous flight over the grassy graves of churchyards of a summer's evening, gave to this insect its popular name.

WE love old customs,-we cherish and we retain every one of them that our forefathers practised; we have our pancakes on Shrove Tuesday, plum puddings on family birthdays, and a yule log on the Christmas Eve fire; nor do we ever omit kind, sea

No LXVI. VOL. III.

sonable greetings to our friends: therefore, to each and all of our readers, do we say most heartily, "A happy New Year to you." May a blessing be upon you all, and may no ill befal anything beneath your roof-tree, or that comes beneath the sway of your