quicklime or gas ammoniacal liquor will decompose it much more quickly; and as a manure, the mixture with the ammoniacal liquor is by far the most valuable.

TEA-SCENTED ROSES (A Lover of Flowers).-These, and some other delicate varieties which you took up in November, and potted for protection in a cold frame, you may return into the borders at the beginning of May, or repot them as soon as the present pots are full of roots, but not before. Whichever plan you adopt, do not disturb the roots. The tender parts of the tops may be cut in next April. When these roses get old, and have strong roots, the best plan is to leave them in the beds, and shelter them well.

COCHIN CHINA FOWLS (E. Mugridge).-They have not five toes. We will publish your letter next week, and get you all the informa

tion we can.

BEES (P. T. R.).-You have bees, in three common hives (straw), each of which is placed on the centre box of a set of collateral boxes, three in a set: the said centre box is filled with comb, but now the honey is all eaten. You want to keep them in the centre box, and that they may work in the side boxes, and you ask-can this be accomplished, or how are you to remove them from the straw hive to the box beneath? You cannot remove your bees from the straw hive to the centre box without the risk, or rather the certainty, of destroying them all. Your best plan will be to remove the boxes entirely, leaving the bees in the straw hive, in the same place where they now stand, and allow them to swarm, and then put the swarm into the centre box, leaving in it the empty combs as it now stands.

BEES (Ibid).-You have also two straw hives, each of which is placed on the top of a box full of comb, but now all the honey is gone. When full, you ask how you can take away either the top one or the bottom one, and which ought to be removed, and by what means? Your straw hives, placed upon the tops of boxes, had better be separated from the boxes; and, in April, place upon the top of each hive a small hive, or box, as recommended at page 305 of vol. i. of THE COTTAGE GARDENER. Should they be suffered to remain as they now are, you cannot have fine honey in either; both will contain pollen and brood, nor can you tell in which the queen may be. SCARLET GERANIUMS (Tom Thumb).-You may cultivate these either according to the digest to which you refer, and which we consider the best, or according to "Aunt Harriet's plan." There are always more than one way to effect a purpose.

ENCLOSURE FOR FOWLS (J. N.).-Your irregular space, containing about twenty square yards, is enough for your purpose. We should lay it down partly with turf, and partly with sandy soil, for them to bask in. We should keep the common Dorking, which you may obtain through any London poulterer. Thanks for the recipes, which shall appear in THE DOMESTIC ECONOMIST as you wish.

SPRINKLING DUNG WITH SULPHURIC ACID (Peregrinus).—This would check the escape of the ammonia, and render your manure more valuable; but would it not weaken the heating-that is, the fermenting-of the dung? It is worthy of a trial. Mix twice the weight of water with the acid.

NUTT'S CELERY (C. K. Sivewright).-You may obtain seed of this from its raiser, Mr. Nutt, near St. John's Church Park, Sheffield.

BEST GARDEN FORK (W. Bone).- Any blacksmith will make you one, from our drawing and description, at p. 289 of vol. i. The best Spade (Lyndon's) you can obtain of almost any ironmonger.

STORING CARROTS, &c. (B. M. J.).-Cut off so much of the top that no trace remains of the ring round the centre, where the leaves grew. Do not apply liquid manure to your spinach, &c., until they begin to grow in the spring. The reference to Brussels sprouts in vol. ii., should be to p. 347. Liquid manure may be applied to this vegetable, advantageously, in the autumn and spring, when it is in a growing state. You will find your questions answered at p. 136 of this volume.

CROSSING DAHLIAS (T. 0.).-We do not think there is much chance of getting true crosses from dahlias, owing to the difficulty of performing the operation. Dahlias are not deuble flowers in the same sense as we say a double rose-that is, by the conversion of the stamens into petals; a double dahlia is a compound flower, each floret or division being a single flower in itself, having its own system of stamens and pistils If the flowers of a single hyacinth were collected into one head on the top of the flower scape, or stalk, we should have as much reason to call that head a double flower as we now have for calling the dahlia double; and if we had to cross hyacinth flowers, formed into one head like a dahlia, we should first have to pull out some of the florets, or single flowers, in order that we might have room to extract the anthers from the rest. Now, that is just the way to prepare a dahlia flower for crossing, with this difficulty, that the florets, in a dahlia flower, are a great deal smaller than those of a hyacinth in the supposed flower, and, therefore, very few of the florets could be left in the dahlia flower to operate upon; the operation consists of slitting up each floret with a pin, in order to cut out the anthers before they are ripe. Whether the florets in the centre of a flower, or those round the outside, should be kept for seeds, it is difficult to say, in the absence of any clue to an explanation of the cause why the centre florets are altered to the form of the outside ones; but, judging from analogy, we should say, that the florets situated half-way between the centre and circumference were the best to save seeds from, whether they were crossed or not.

HYACINTHS (G. Jones).-It is fully too late now to put in hyacinths, but they will do, if you put them in moss; let the bud be just free above the moss.

SOWING PINES AND CEDARS (Chudleigh Tom).-All the pinuses and cedars are increased from seeds. Sow them, any time in March, in shallow seed-pans, or pots, with an inch or two of drainage. Use friable loam only, and give hardly any water till the seedlings are three or four days old. A dry, warm frame, without bottom-heat, is the safest place for the seed-pans, and if the seeds are merely covered it will be enough. As soon as the seedlings are firm enough to handle, transplant them into small pots, singly, and keep them close for the first ten days; after that, cold frame culture will do for them.

QUEEN OF THE PRAIRIES (Rosa).-Your question was answered at p. 192.

TOPPING SPRUCE FIRS (W. H. G.).-If the tops of these are cut off, because they are too overshadowing, they will live, but we do not think they will again form leaders. We have seen them so topped in plantations, where they had been planted to nurse other trees, but never saw a fresh leader produced. We should cut them, as you propose, and lay something over the wound, to keep out

the wet.

CESTRUM AURANTIACUM (Verax).-This plant about which you inquire is one of the prettiest of a family, the species and varieties of which are not greatly distinguished for their beauty and elegance. It is a small evergreen shrub, with yellow flowers, introduced some years ago from Guatemala; easily cultivated in peat and loam, and easily propagated by cuttings in spring and summer. We should be doubtful of your plant succeeding if it has suffered from frost, or even of your growing it to great perfection in your greenhouse, unless you can give it a warm corner. As its leaves have all fallen, let it rest, and give it little or no water, until by-and-by you can set it in a cucumber frame, and then, as the doctors say, you will kill or Treat it then for your greenhouse, as was lately advised in the case of Justicia speciosa, &c. Lonicera japonica is generally propagated by cuttings under a band-light. The little shoots that grow out from the older stems in April and May strike very readily. It is useful for scenting a cool greenhouse, during summer and autumn; but it will grow freely against a wall, fence, or pillar, in rich, light soil, and is nearly as hardy as our common woodbine; and next to it is, perhaps, the best of the honeysuckles.

cure.

PLUMBAGO LARPENTE (Ibid). This should be grown in poor soil, with a portion of lime rubbish. This plant was, perhaps, too much praised, and then too much censured. Propagated by cuttings, any time during spring and autumn, either under a bell-glass or a hand light.

YELLOW PERSIAN ROSE (Ibid).-Shorten its main shoots, but do not spur them back to an eye, unless where you wish to obtain fresh shoots for another year.

HOARE'S VINE PILLARS (H. Sandford).-These are not at home everywhere; you are too far north at Rotherham. If you will experiment on vines, stick to a south aspect, and make your border of very light soil, mixed with porous materials, and not deeper than fifteen inches. Apply what extra strength is necessary by means of top dressing.

BUSH FRUIT ON BORDERS (Ibid).-We own that, unless care is taken, the bush fruit and espaliers would indeed shade the wall trees. A dwarfing system must be practised, based on root limitation, of which more in due time.

ESPALIERS (T. W. A.).-Your gooseberries and currants should be about four feet apart, not less. You do not name your trees. Some will do as bushes or pyramids, others would be better on a table trellis. You had better correspond with us again, and describe your wants with more accuracy. At any rate, keep your espaliers below six feet. Your pears should be on quince stocks, and your apples on the Paradise, or otherwise much limited at the root. We need hardly say, that Mr. Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth, excels, as a nurseryman, in his knowledge of these things.

KILLING WORMS (A Regular Subscriber).-Corrosive sublimate, as mentioned by us at p. 179, may be employed on gravel walks without hurting the box-edging.

MILLS ON THE CUCUMBER (A Beginner).-It is published by Messrs. W. S. Orr & Co., Amen-Corner, Paternoster-Row.

CYCLAMEN PERSICUM (J. H.).-This, which has lost its leaves which it had when you bought it two months ago, received a check on being placed in your window; but if the roots are good, keep the soil moist, and it will soon recover as the season advances.

COVERING FOR PIT-BOTTOMS (A Constant Reader).-See one of our editorials to-day. Water-proofed calico will do for your frame, to protect radishes. You will find a recipe for the water-proofing at p. 123 of vol. ii. Why do you not buy our Indexes-you can have them for both volumes for twopence.

WORK ON AGRICULTURE (Alpha).-Either Stephens' "Book of the Farm," or Morton's "Cyclopædia of Agriculture," now publishing in half-a-crown parts, will suit your friend.

LONDON: Printed by HARRY Wooldridge, Winchester High Street, in the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by WILLIAM SOMERVILLE ORR, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of Christ Church, City of London.-January 24th, 1850.

CANDLEMAS DAY was evidently so named from the number of lights formerly burnt in our churches upon the occasion; and a proclamation of Henry VIII. announces, "that the bearing of candels on this day is done in memory of Christ, the spiritual Light." In those days of superstition, each person who had borne a candle, and had it blessed at this festival, carefully preserved it, and re-lighted it during any time of danger, firmly believing that neither evil spirit, storm, or other power, could injure him whose candle was burning! On the eve of this day, by our ancestors, all the evergreen household decorations were removed, and others placed as their successors. Herrick, one of the most harmonious poets of the 16th century, says, of this regarnishing:

ST. BLASE.-Why this good bishop of Sebastia should have been selected by those of our Christian ancestors that were woollen manufacturers, to be their patron, is lost in the darkness of the unrecorded portion of our history. There seems to be no reason for supposing that he invented the comb with which he was tortured, for woolcombing appears to have been practised by the Britons when Cæsar first invaded our shores. Be this as it may, St. Blase is the patron of all artificers connected with the woollen trade, and a septennial jubilee is held in the clothiery districts of Yorkshire, professedly in his honour, but really for the sake of revelry. Jason, the captor of the Golden Fleece, Bishop Blase, shepherdesses, &c., and innumerable devices worked in wool, form parts of the procession. The value of our woollen trade may be estimated from the facts that, in 1848, more than sixty-nine millions of pounds of wool were imported into England; and the value of our woollen manufactured goods, exported the same year, was nearly five and three-quarters millions of sterling pounds.

METEOROLOGY OF THE WEEK.-The average highest temperature of these seven days, from observations made during the last twentythree years, is 43.8°, and the average lowest temperature, 31.7°. During the same years, 93 days were fine, and on 68 days rain fell. The highest temperature observed was 56°, on the 2nd of February, 1835; and the lowest, 14°, on the 3rd, in 1841.

JAN.

1841.

1842.

1843.

31

30.190 B.30.165

30.124

29.931

29.930

29.834

30.242 30.131

R. 0.12

0.12

FEB.

1

R.

the

{29.688

29.722

30.267

29.854

29.495

30.017

29.833

30.141

30.100

30.454

30.177

29.798

little fect-prints on freshly-raked soil, so the bullfinches and the tomtits were condemned as the ravagers. However, upon turning to Kirby and Spence's "Entomology,"

we found this notice-"When in flower, the footstalks of the raspberry's blossoms are occasionally eaten through by a minute beetle, Byturus tomentosus, which I once saw prove fatal to a whole crop.' We immediately searched, and found that this, too, was our enemy. It may be called the Raspberry-stalk beetle, and is named, by some naturalists, Dermestes tomentosus. Our cut represents it both of its natural size and magnified. The whole of the upper part of the body

is a dull brown colour, dotted over with minute black spots, and covered thickly with a short down. The antennæ, feet, and beneath the body, are dull yellowish-red, and the eyes black. It may be cbserved in the blossoms of the whitethorn, and umbelliferous plants, during May and June. When the raspberry-canes are attacked, burning green garden refuse to windward of them, so as to envelope them for some time thickly in smoko, might put the plunderers to flight.

29.403

29.871

29.744

29.976

NOTWITHSTANDING the very full information we gave at page 22 of our second volume, relative to the cultivation of the mistletoe, and the additional particulars that information elicited from a correspondent-page 166 of the same volume-we continue to receive letters asking questions, the answers to which we shall endeavour to embody in one connected reply. One letter on the subject, from the Rev. Hugh Nanney, of Causby Rectory, Lincolnshire, we will insert here, because it not only contains the information required by our correspondent, but some notes in natural history worthy of preservation

"In answer to your correspondent, Allendale,' I beg to inform him, that there is a very fine specimen of the mistletoe' growing on an apple-tree in the gardens at Bradley Hall, not many miles down the Tyne, below the mouth of the Allen. So much as to its growing in Northumberland. But how to propagate it, I am at a loss, as a friend of mine, the late curate of Ryton, not far from Bradley Hall, has tried to engraft the seed on the apple, oak, and thorn, but without success.

"As I know you like facts connected with natural history, as well as with gardening, I would wish to mention, that a very fine specimen of the yellowbreasted martin was killed near the manor-house, in this parish, in a hole, adjoining the moat which

surrounds the house. There were fourteen fine fresh eels in the martin's lair, of about half-a-pound each. The moat was frozen at the time, and had been for a fortnight."

This will satisfy another correspondent (J. M.) that the mistletoe will grow even further north than Liverpool.

We think we can explain why "the curate of Ryton," and some of our correspondents, have failed to rear the mistletoe from seeds; for there is, certainly, no more care or art required to establish it on an apple-tree, and on many other trees, than there is in growing a grain of wheat, or of barley; and when it is once established, it is as difficult to eradicate as a dock, or a coltsfoot. We have known old plants of the mistletoe cut down close, and even the bark of the branch on which it grew pared off round the bottom of the parasite, and yet a multitude of young plants sprung up afterwards from the wounded parts.

The usual way in which the mistletoe is propagated is by the agency of birds, which feed greedily on the berries during the winter and early in the spring; who, after satisfying their appetite, resort to neighbouring trees, to wipe their beaks against the branches, to get rid of the slimy matter which envelopes the seeds, and which sticks to the outside of their bills, with a portion of the seeds also. The white viscous matter of the mistletoe-berry glues the seed to the bark, and if this is smooth, and not too hard, the seeds will germinate, and root into it the following spring; that is, supposing the pollen to have reached the flower of the mistletoe at the proper time, which is not always the case, as the male and female organs of the mistletoe are borne in different flowers on the same plant, like those of the melon and cucumber; and sometimes a plant produces but one of the sexes in all its blossoms. When this is the case, and no pollen reaches the stigma, although the berries are formed, they are destitute of the vital germ, and, of course, will not vegetate: hence the real cause of many of the failures of which we hear.

Like many other seeds, some of those of the mistletoe, we have no doubt, pass through the gizzards of birds without losing their vitality, and are thus sown, in the dung of the birds, in cracks and fissures in the bark of trees. We must not, however, countenance the old notion, that it was necessary for some kinds of seeds to pass through the stomach of some animal before they could be made to germinate; but, from our knowledge of the way and time that these seeds are sown by the birds, we may reasonably conclude that we shall be right if we sow them artificially any time from Christmas to the middle or end of April; and, in general, they germinate before the end of the following May. The north side of a stout branch, with a soft, smooth bark, is, probably, the best situation to place the seeds; and if the outer bark is just cut through with a sharp knife, to afford

a lodgment for the seed, the viscous matter which adheres to them will retain them in their position. The first appearance of growth is indicated by one or two root-like processes, resembling the sucker of a house-fly, but larger; and for the first half-dozen years the plants grow very slowly.

The name, mistletoe, is not derived from the Missel thrush, as has been asserted by some writers, but the name of this bird is derived from feeding on its berries. The Saxon name of the plant was Mistelta, and ours is the same in an English dress.

WE have now arrived at the consideration of the science applicable to the Roors of plants.

The root is present in all cultivated plants. The truffle, which, however, can scarcely be considered as belonging to cultivated vegetables, having hitherto defied all attempts to subjugate it, may be considered as nothing but root.*

A root is annual, biennial, or perennial. In the two former instances, if the individuals to which they belong be allowed to perfect their seed, no care can protract their existence beyond the ensuing winter, however genial the temperature, &c., in which they are made to vegetate: but if the ripening of seed be prevented, it is undetermined how long they may, in most instances, be sustained in life. I have known mignonette continued in healthy vegetation for four years with this precaution.

The quantity of the root we have always observed to increase with the poverty of the soil in which it is growing. Duhamel found the roots of some young caks in a poor soil to be nearly four feet long, though the stem was not more than six inches. The cause of this is evident: the nourishment which is required for the growth of the plant can only be obtained by an increased, widely-extending surface of root, and, to form this, more sap is often required than the plant, owing to the poverty of the earth, can obtain for itself; in that case a soil is sterile, for the plant must evidently perish. Every one may have noticed this familiarly instanced in Poa annua growing on a gravel walk-its stem minute, its root a mass of widely-extending fibres.

A root always proceeds in that direction where food is most abundant, and, from a knowledge of this fact, we should be circumspect in our mode of applying manures, according to the crop and object we have in view. The soil in our own garden being shallow, never produced a carrot or a parsnip of any size, but almost every root consisted of numerous forks thickly coated with fibres: digging two spades deep produced no material advantage, the gardener applying as usual manure to the surface; but, by trenching as before, and turning in a small quantity

* In Prussia and elsewhere, it is said the gardeners succeed in cultivating this subterraneous fungus, but their mode of treatment is a secret, and modes suggested by others are rarely successful.

For

of manure at the bottom, the roots always spindled well, grew clean, and had few lateral fibres. late crops of peas, which mildew chiefly from a deficiency of moisture to the root, it is an object to keep their radiculæ near the surface, for the sake of the light depositions of moisture incident to their season of growth; hence it will always be found of benefit to cover the earth over the rows with a little well rotted dung, and to point it lightly in.

It may be accepted as an universal maxim, that whatever causes an excessive development of root prevents the production of seed; and vice versa, the production of sced, especially in tuberous-rooted plants, reduces the amount of root developed. Thus, frequent transplanting the young plants of the lettuce, brocoli, and cauliflower causes the production of numerous fibrous roots, and is found effective in preventing the mature plants advancing early to seed. The early varieties of the potato do not naturally produce seed; but if their tubers are removed as soon as they are formed, these early varieties bear seed as freely as the latter kinds, a fact suggesting many experiments to the cultivators of shy-blooming tuberous-rooted flowers. Again, if the blossoms of these later varieties are plucked off as they appear, the weight of tubers produced will be very materially increased.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

VINES IN POTS.-Repeated applications having been made for information concerning vine forcing in pots, we now take up the subject, and, in doing so, it will be requisite to defer entering into the whole course of culture necessary as a preliminary proceeding at the present moment, on account of the period we write for, knowing that many persons, who have established plants by them, are anxious for a little practical advice. In a short period, we hope to resume the subject, and we shall trace the culture of the potted vine from the "eye," or cutting, up to the forcing period.

PREPARING PLANTS.-We may now suppose that the forcer is in possession of good strong fruiting plants, and that they have been wintered securely, that is to say, have been kept tolerably dry, and not subjected to very severe weather; also, that they had been pruned in the autumn. Before introducing them to heat, it is well to dress their shoots after the manner of those in the hothouse up the rafters; a plan which, although not indispensable, is of some benefit, as tending to prevent the hatching of any insect eggs which may be deposited on their shoots, for such is almost sure to be the case. The mixture generally used is made by beating up soft soap in warm water, at the rate of about five ounces to the gallon, and then adding at least one pound of flowers of sulphur. It is well, also, to thicken it by some means to the consistence of thick paint, and to this end we use clay. As much clay, then, may be added as will accomplish this, and the whole being thoroughly blended, may be applied with a painter's brush, plastering it all over the wood, and into every chink or crevice. This done, we recommend that each end, where the pruning knife has operated, be

daubed with thick paint, or white lead; for strong young vines are apt to bleed on being introduced to heat, and this effectually prevents it. Care, however, must be taken that the wounds are perfectly dry when the paint is applied, or it will not adhere perfectly.

SOIL. The next point is to examine carefully the state of the soil, both at the surface of the pot, and at its bottom. As to the surface, some portion will be found worn out, of a loose or powdery character, and containing no fibres. All such should be removed with a pointed stick, loosening and emptying out all containing no roots, and replacing it with a powerful compost. If much is removed, and there is consequently room for much compost, we would advise the use of lumps of turf, which should have been cut a few months previously, and which had been dried in some shed; this should be in pieces as large as a middle-sized potato, and much of the loose soil, being dry, should be shaken out. With this, a finer compost may be used, composed of sound loam and good rotten manure, adding some small charcoal, and some fine bone dust. The manure should be good. Cow-dung, mellowed by age, or old nightsoil, will be found highly useful. In filling up the pots, the turfy lumps should be placed first all over the surface, and the finer compost shaken over and amongst it, taking care that at least two inches of the finer compost surmounts the turfy lumps. This is a necessary course in all top-dressing affairs, where porous turf is thus used; the finer compost acts as a regulator or controller of the moisture of the turfy material, which, without this, is apt to become suddenly dry, and to act fitfully. And now the bottom of the pot must be examined, in order to see if no obstructions have taken place in the drainage. We should, however, have advised this to be done before adding the fresh top-dressing, as turning the pot or tub on one side for this purpose would be apt to disarrange the top-dressing, which, once fixed and pressed down, should remain without disturbance. Any lodgment in the holes of the pots should be picked out carefully with a spike-nail, or sharp-pointed stick, and if obstructions should be suspected beyond the reach of this procedure, the ball must be turned out, and any extraneous matter from worms, or other sources, carefully removed, taking care to adjust the crocks, or other drainage materials, at the same time, in order to facilitate the free discharge of water, without which it will be absolutely impossible to obtain success. If the turning out can be avoided, all the better; for one of the worst faults attending this is the difficulty of placing the ball in precisely the same position again, which is very necessary, for, in the event of a change in position, there are sure to be many open cavities, down which the water will be too apt to escape in subsequent waterings, to the desertion of the ball, through which it should be made to percolate in an even way. An old practitioner-one used to the potting bench-can readily replace a ball in its old position; it is, nevertheless, a rule-of-thumb affair, only acquired by long practice.

COMMENCING FORCING.-All these things being accomplished, the plant is now ready to be introduced to a warmer climate; and here we must pause to ascertain what situations are available, and, also, what conditions are necessary.

BOTTOM-HEAT.-Whatever situation may be chosen for the vines ultimately, it will be of eminent service, if, in their earlier stages at least, they can have the advantage of a moderate bottom-heat. We are quite

aware that not every one can comply with the conditions here laid down; still, in offering advice, we do not deem it a duty to compromise principles of importance, but rather to point to what we conceive is the highest course of culture. Bottom-heat is now beginning to be considered a valuable adjunct even to outside borders, where the roots have free liberty to range for food: how much more so, then, for vines in pots, where, from the very limited supply of food, every means must be taken to obtain an active root, and to keep it so: and where a sudden check is almost sure to prove fatal to a really successful issue? It is, however, not so much in any precise amount of bottom-heat alone that reliance must be placed, but in the relation that amount bears to the average atmospheric heat.

LIGHT. The amount of light, as we have before observed, is the guiding star of this and all other forcing matters, where elaborative processes have to be carried out; such things as sea-kale, asparagus, &c., forming an exception: here, mere development of buds already organised is sought. Such being the case, the amount of bottom-heat which might be recommended for May or June would by no means be the most eligible for December or January. As a guide to the amateur, we would, then, suggest that three distinct periods might be considered as comprising the history of vine-forcing in pots-from the commencement of the process to the complete ripening of the fruit. These we would thus divide:

First-From the commencement to the blossom shewing.

Second.-From the latter to the beginning of the stoning process.

Third-From the stoning to the ripening.

We find that we have been drawn rather too deep into the subject for a single paper; we must cease pursuing abstract principles, and come to details.

TEMPERATURE.During the whole of the forcing, it is our firm persuasion that it would be well for the root to be situated in a medium, three or four degrees warmer than the average atmospheric heat. Vines in pots, to be introduced now, should, during the first period, have a bottom-heat of about 70°, whilst during this stage, the atmospheric heat need not by any means exceed 60°-indeed 55°, until the leaf begins to unfold, would be better. It will be seen here that the object is to get the root into action somewhat before the top, in order that the buds may develope with freedom, and escape what is termed "blindness," which, although not caused by the want of such precautions, is much aggravated by improper treatment, or by neglect.

By the time that the bunch is to be seen, the tactics must, in some degree, be changed. An atmospheric temperature from 65° to 70° must be secured by day, falling to about 55° or 58° by night; the bottom-heat, also, if possible, advanced in a like ratio.

As the season advances, and the second period begins to merge into the third, much atmospheric advance by sunshine may be allowed. A thermometer rising to 85° in the afternoon, on bright days, will be beneficial.

ATMOSPHERIC MOISTURE must, of course, abound during the first period; and until the vines break, little ventilation, unless to keep down heat, will be requisite. Afterwards, however, a free, yet cautious ventilation much benefits them: rendering the whole plant more robust.

TRAINING. Whether plunged, or, as is oftentimes the case, set over a back flue, or on the kerb-stones of pine or other pits, care must be taken to train them

carefully up, in order to present as much perfect foliage to the light as possible. Some "stop" one joint beyond the fruit, as with rafter vines; we think, however, that two or three joints will be found better. After this stopping, the secondary shoots should be allowed to range a little; never stopping or disbudding all at once, but always keeping some point or points growing: thus will fresh fibres be constantly kept a-going—a matter of some importance.

WATERING. This is a most material item in potculture; so much so, that injudicious watering will soon ruin the crop. Presuming that the pots are thoroughly drained, they will take water liberally ; especially if unplunged, and over a warm flue. When really getting dry, enough water should be given to moisten the ball entirely through; and we advise the constant use of liquid-manure, from the moment they are out of blossom: using it weak, and perfectly clear. A brewing of soot-water in one vessel, and good Peruvian guano in another, will furnish a capital liquor; the guano at the rate of two ounces to a gallon, adding a gallon of soot-water to a gallon of the guanowater. It should always be given of a temperature quite equal to the average temperature of the house. When plunged, the pots will not require above half as much water. We will return to potculture when we get an opportunity.

R. ERRINGTON.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

TIMELY HINTS UPON DIGGING HARDY HERBACEOUS FLOWER-BEDS.-The time is now near at hand when most persons who have gardens will be very busy in this way, whether the plants are in beds upon a lawn, or in straight-line borders by the side of principal walks, or dotted about in the front of plantations. No matter where they are planted, such flowers are very beautiful, if properly treated, and nicely arranged, according to their various heights and colours. But they will not all endure the same treatment; many of them do best when not disturbed at the root for many years; such as the Veratrums, Delphiniums, Cimicifugas, Actæas, perennial Lathyruses, Arobuses, Paonias, and many others; on the other hand, very many require judicious dividing, and regulating of their roots, yearly, to keep them up to the mark of perfection. Among such are the Monardas, Phlox crassifolia, P. stolonifera, P. procumbens, Prunellas, Diclytras, and Sedums. In fact, nearly all the upright-growing Phloxes like dividing, and a new situation about every three years, to keep them growing in perfection; and the same is the case with many other kinds of hardy herbaceous plants. But then these, and the Phloxes, require a good top-dressing of leaf-mould and loam, equal parts, instead of the spade, among their roots. At the end of three years, then, take them up, divide them, and give them a new situation. But, as I said before, some of them, to do well, should dot be rootinjured, or moved, for years; whilst others spread themselves over a wide space of surface in one year, particularly if the plant is doing well.

Now, when fine open weather comes in February, the master, or lady, of a small establishment wants the plantation dressed off very neatly, in which there are some very choice hardy herbaceous plants, but there are no labels to any of them. The groom is called, who professes to know everything. He confesses his very great fondness for gardening; but, to every-one else, declares that he hates it above all things! He goes to work, with the spade, among these beautiful flowers, and where he sees a plant that